Not crazy about my Duda Diesel chiller

[augiedoggy]

This should help, but also if you can measure the flowrate of your ice water I can calculate precisely how long the single pass chill is *supposed* to take, and from there we can determine whether the unit is under performing or working how it should

not to take this too off topic but what the deal with your ebay store?
I ordered a couple camlock fittings from you last week and the expected delivery date was/is monday june 1st but when I try to track it I get a message saying the tracking number will be updated once the shipment reaches the carrier? I placed the order over a week ago... Are you guys really that busy that it hasnt shipped yet or did the tracking number just not update for some reason?

I seem to remember this happening last time too but cant remember if the parts just showed up before I could track them or not..

 

[Duda_Energy]

not to take this too off topic but what the deal with your ebay store?

Last week was a nightmare. Off for memorial day, internet was completely down all day wed, phones all day friday. So we managed to get about 2-2.5 working days to handle everything that week. If tracking isn't updating I'm *assuming* there was something on your order that was out of stock (we still shipped everything in stock on time, kind of); normally you would've received a phone call after a few hours but if it was last week it honestly may have slipped through the cracks. Give us a call tomorrow (9-5 CST; its after hours now) at 256-340-4866 and we can look your order up and get everything straightened out.

 

[augiedoggy]

Last week was a nightmare. Off for memorial day, internet was completely down all day wed, phones all day friday. So we managed to get about 2-2.5 working days to handle everything that week. If tracking isn't updating I'm *assuming* there was something on your order that was out of stock (we still shipped everything in stock on time, kind of); normally you would've received a phone call after a few hours but if it was last week it honestly may have slipped through the cracks. Give us a call tomorrow (9-5 CST; its after hours now) at 256-340-4866 and we can look your order up and get everything straightened out.

No problem.. Thanks for filling me in.

 

[augiedoggy]

FYI Duda did end up refunding my purchase a couple days ago since they did not have the items in stock ... They did say they tried to contact me but I received no emails or phone contact from them through ebay or otherwise besides the cancellation notice.... it is possible however that the phone number in my paypal account is my old landline in which case they would not have had any luck.

 

[bbohanon]

I am fixing to abandon the plate chiller move. My last batch looks like it picked up an infection and I am almost certain it was from the plate chiller.

Just seems baking/boiling, all the maintenance needed to keep this thing able to chill with no infections and then getting it to chill properly is just not my cup of tea. Its more overhead than its worth.

I am fixing to pull the trigger on a 1/2" - 50ft" copper IC as my old 3/8" - 25ft foot one I used in my 5 gallon batches always worked without issue and with zero infections. At least I know the beer is not getting exposed to additional surfaces that could lead to an infection with an IC.

Chalk me up on the list of "Left the plate chiller behind" crowd.

 

[kombat]

To each their own, I guess, but I've used mine on over 50 batches and never had an issue. I don't think I do anything special to clean/store it. It's a 30-plate B3-23A Duda Diesel unit. I've never baked it in the oven. All I do for sanitizing is run some boiling wort through it for a few minutes toward the end of the boil, until the thermometer on the exit port ("COLD WORT OUT") reads 160° F or higher.

I think I've already described my cleaning protocol earlier in this thread, but after chilling, I just run hot water backwards through it, then hot PBW, then plain water again twice (two different buckets). 5 minutes or so for each phase, while I clean the boil kettle. Then I dump out any water remaining in it, give it a little shake, and store it. I don't even blow out any excess moisture or anything.

The only precaution I take to avoid clogging is to contain my hops in a hop spider in the boil kettle. So the only thing my chiller has to contend with is break material.

 

[bbohanon]

I think I've already described my cleaning protocol earlier in this thread, but after chilling, I just run hot water backwards through it, then hot PBW, then plain water again twice (two different buckets). 5 minutes or so for each phase, while I clean the boil kettle. Then I dump out any water remaining in it, give it a little shake, and store it. I don't even blow out any excess moisture or anything.

This to me is much more maintenance than an IC is to be honest..With an IC, you use it, rinse it off/dry it, store it until next time. The only thing I did with my IC is to put it into a bucket of Star San before putting into my brew 15 mins before flame out which sanitized it completely.
The other thing I was worried about with the PC is the additional exposure of the beer to external surfaces post-boil which makes me that much more nervous about picking up an infection (which my fears came to pass with the last batch).

To each his own is the right way to go with this and the PC just aint working for me.

 

[Natdavis777]

I think they are very low maintenance as well. Mine literally stays bolted to my brewstand. I use a hop screen to avoid hop particulate from clogging, and that is about it. I recirculate boiling wort at the end of the boil for a few minutes to sanitize, then kick the water on as I cut the heat. Cool and transfer as normal. By this time, my MLT is cleaned out and has some PBW solution circulating though, and it goes through all the pumps, BK, chiller, etc after the wort is in the carboys. Ive yet to have an issue, and its seamless with just a switch of the hose with QDs

 

[augiedoggy]

I am fixing to abandon the plate chiller move. My last batch looks like it picked up an infection and I am almost certain it was from the plate chiller.

Just seems baking/boiling, all the maintenance needed to keep this thing able to chill with no infections and then getting it to chill properly is just not my cup of tea. Its more overhead than its worth.

I am fixing to pull the trigger on a 1/2" - 50ft" copper IC as my old 3/8" - 25ft foot one I used in my 5 gallon batches always worked without issue and with zero infections. At least I know the beer is not getting exposed to additional surfaces that could lead to an infection with an IC.

Chalk me up on the list of "Left the plate chiller behind" crowd.

how odd? just using my experience and the fact that I have over 50 brew sessions through my duda chiller and only one infected batch I would have to say you may have done something wrong... I have never baked my chiller or anything but ran pbw solution through it from time time and hot water after every use...I dont get solids in mine though because I had this crazy idea to prefilter all of the solids from my beer prior to pumping them into the chiller by using a hop syder and a $10 piece of stainless braid...

 

[augiedoggy]

To each their own, I guess, but I've used mine on over 50 batches and never had an issue. I don't think I do anything special to clean/store it. It's a 30-plate B3-23A Duda Diesel unit. I've never baked it in the oven. All I do for sanitizing is run some boiling wort through it for a few minutes toward the end of the boil, until the thermometer on the exit port ("COLD WORT OUT") reads 160° F or higher.

I think I've already described my cleaning protocol earlier in this thread, but after chilling, I just run hot water backwards through it, then hot PBW, then plain water again twice (two different buckets). 5 minutes or so for each phase, while I clean the boil kettle. Then I dump out any water remaining in it, give it a little shake, and store it. I don't even blow out any excess moisture or anything.

The only precaution I take to avoid clogging is to contain my hops in a hop spider in the boil kettle. So the only thing my chiller has to contend with is break material.

lol I just read this and its scary how your use and procedures are almost identical to mine.... I should add that I do what is commonly suggested with plate chillers or any chiller, I recirculate boiling wort through my chiller for about 5 minutes at the end of every boil to kill any chance of infection prior to chilling.... it seems to work so far.


mine is also bolted to my brew stand... to me common sense does the trick... try to keep the solids out of the chiller and rinse it after every use..

 

[bbohanon]

It could just be bad luck on my end. I have tried to be really anal about keeping this thing clean as I do with all my gear. I may use it again for a blonde ale I am needing to get brewed up as its a cheap recipe to make so an infection will not mean the end of the world.
I do like the chiller itself, but keeping it clean regardless of what I do with boiling Oxy water backflushing with a Star San rinse, baking it, running boiling wort through it for 5 mins, or anything else does not seem to be enough.
I hate to abandon it but cannot continue to fight with it sanitation-wise, chilling-wise, etc.

 

[Brettomomyces]

lol I just read this and its scary how your use and procedures are almost identical to mine.... I should add that I do what is commonly suggested with plate chillers or any chiller, I recirculate boiling wort through my chiller for about 5 minutes at the end of every boil to kill any chance of infection prior to chilling.... it seems to work so far.


mine is also bolted to my brew stand... to me common sense does the trick... try to keep the solids out of the chiller and rinse it after every use..

Count me in on this procedure as well...20 batches with it and no issues so far. I only do PBW every 5 batches or so

 

[augiedoggy]

Why are you baking it and why are you using star San? The boiling wort kills any chance of infection as long as its cleaned. Stat San is a sanitizer not cleaner, and its only used with things that contact the wort after its chilled...since you are supposed be recirculating boiling wort through the chiller for a pwriod of time before turning cooling water on this should be a non-issue. I suggest putting some sort of filter in your boil kettle to keep the solids out of the chiller then you won't have issues keeping it clean.

 

[PlexVector]

I got a 40 plate duda diesel chiller for chirstmas (the B3-12A).
My previous chiller was an 11 plate shirron chiller. It was a decent chiller, but in the summer and fall, it just didn't get me close enough to pitching temps (within reason of course). I've seen many people compare this duda diesel chiller to the blichmann chiller, but I've used both and think they are worlds apart in terms of results.

I assumed, with more plates than the shirron, I'd have a lower wort temp, but I actually feel that the duda diesel chiller is even worse. During the dead of winter, I used to be able to run my shirron chiller wide open, with the kettle valve wide open, and sometimes even have to regulate the cold water going in. I could easily hit 60 degree wort temp. With the duda diesel in the dead of winter, I've had to run the cold water wide open, and can only open the kettle valve about half way, and still cant get below 74. Just for reference, my winter tap water is around 45*.

I also feel that it gets clogged much much easier than the shirron chiller.
Its been suggested to me that I do a long term PBW soak to try to remove anything that a backflush cleaning can't get.
Has anyone else experienced similar issues with their Duda Diesel product?

What is the length and width of your shirron chiller?

 

[johnv51]

I love my Duda chiller. Do you have the water flow go the right direction (counter flow)?
Skip the PBW soak and go right to a sodium hydroxide (lye) soak. If you have crap stuck in it, you'll be amazed with the power of lye.

What strength solution do you mix to pump through the chiller?