Not crazy about my Duda Diesel chiller

[Grannyknot]

I got a 40 plate duda diesel chiller for chirstmas (the B3-12A).
My previous chiller was an 11 plate shirron chiller. It was a decent chiller, but in the summer and fall, it just didn't get me close enough to pitching temps (within reason of course). I've seen many people compare this duda diesel chiller to the blichmann chiller, but I've used both and think they are worlds apart in terms of results.

I assumed, with more plates than the shirron, I'd have a lower wort temp, but I actually feel that the duda diesel chiller is even worse. During the dead of winter, I used to be able to run my shirron chiller wide open, with the kettle valve wide open, and sometimes even have to regulate the cold water going in. I could easily hit 60 degree wort temp. With the duda diesel in the dead of winter, I've had to run the cold water wide open, and can only open the kettle valve about half way, and still cant get below 74. Just for reference, my winter tap water is around 45*.

I also feel that it gets clogged much much easier than the shirron chiller.
Its been suggested to me that I do a long term PBW soak to try to remove anything that a backflush cleaning can't get.
Has anyone else experienced similar issues with their Duda Diesel product?

 

[acidrain]

I love my Duda chiller. Do you have the water flow go the right direction (counter flow)?
Skip the PBW soak and go right to a sodium hydroxide (lye) soak. If you have crap stuck in it, you'll be amazed with the power of lye.

 

[Gavin C]

I use a Duda diesel chiller too and am pleased with the results. I have warm tap water so use a prechiller too. I get to 65F in 10 minutes for 5.5 gallon batches. (I recirculate during the chill)

Cleaning involves a soak in oxyclean followed by a long back flush (30 minutes) of oxiclean through pump chiller and kettle. What debris comes out is centered by the whirlpool created in the BK.

I turn the pump off and let it sit with oxiclean for hours.

One point that was raised in another thread was the orientation of the plate chiller. A poster stated he/she contacted Dudadiesel who advised a horizontal orientation. I'm not sure as to the importance of this however. Just thought I'd mention it.

Plate Chiller orientation

 

[BlkWater_brewer]

I wouldn't trade my duda for anything. My 15 gallon batches are ready for pitching in the time it takes to pump thru it.

 

[Grannyknot]

I love my Duda chiller. Do you have the water flow go the right direction (counter flow)?
Skip the PBW soak and go right to a sodium hydroxide (lye) soak. If you have crap stuck in it, you'll be amazed with the power of lye.

Yes, it is running counter flow.
Where do you buy Lye at? local grocery?

 

[Grannyknot]

Thanks for the responses. Its very possible that I just need to give the chiller a good cleaning.

 

[kombat]

I love my DudaDiesel chiller. I think part of the OP's problem is that he's constricting the flow of wort. This would limit contact against the walls inside the chiller. Obviously, for optimum chilling, you want to maximize the liquid's contact with the chilling surfaces.

When I use mine, I run both my chilling water and the wort pump wide open, with no constriction. The difference is that I recirculate my wort back into the boil kettle until I hit the desired temperature. In the winter, I can do this with straight tap water, and get 5 gallons down to 65° F in about 3.5 - 4 minutes.

In the summer, when my tap water is warmer, I use tap water until the wort drops below 100° F, then I switch out the chilling water and use a cooler full of ice water and a second pump to get me the rest of the way down to 65° F.

For cleaning, I run some hot water backwards through it to wash out the initial gunk, then I recirculate a hot OxyClean solution through it for 10-15 minutes while I clean the boil kettle and start putting things away, then finally recirculate plain water through it (to rinse out the OxyClean) for 5 more minutes. Then drain and let it dry. So far, no issues. I love it.

 

[acidrain]

Yes, it is running counter flow.
Where do you buy Lye at? local grocery?

Grocery stores that carry Red Devil Lye, Big box stores that carry crystal drain cleaners (pure white crystals with no blue or other colored flecks), Soap stores use it exclusively for making soaps, Duda diesel sells it for home made diesel, Ebay even sells it.

BTW, this method takes about 1/2 hour... not hours or days like some do with the oxyclean/PBW, which in my opinion barely works (compared to lye).

 

[Grannyknot]

I love my DudaDiesel chiller. I think part of the OP's problem is that he's constricting the flow of wort. This would limit contact against the walls inside the chiller. Obviously, for optimum chilling, you want to maximize the liquid's contact with the chilling surfaces.

When I use mine, I run both my chilling water and the wort pump wide open, with no constriction. The difference is that I recirculate my wort back into the boil kettle until I hit the desired temperature. In the winter, I can do this with straight tap water, and get 5 gallons down to 65° F in about 3.5 - 4 minutes.

In the summer, when my tap water is warmer, I use tap water until the wort drops below 100° F, then I switch out the chilling water and use a cooler full of ice water and a second pump to get me the rest of the way down to 65° F.

For cleaning, I run some hot water backwards through it to wash out the initial gunk, then I recirculate a hot OxyClean solution through it for 10-15 minutes while I clean the boil kettle and start putting things away, then finally recirculate plain water through it (to rinse out the OxyClean) for 5 more minutes. Then drain and let it dry. So far, no issues. I love it.

That's an interesting thought about the contact with the walls of the chiller being lessened by decreased flow.

I would love to be able to recirculate wort until pitching temps are reached, but unfortunately, even with a 12" bazooka screen in my kettle, the cold break eventually puts a halt to the circulation.

 

[kombat]

So take out the bazooka screen. What good is it doing?

 

[sandyeggoxj]

Plate chillers gain efficiency with length not number of plates. Adding a bunch of plates won't chill your wort faster. It can actually increase the chilling time.

 

[day_trippr]

Plate chillers gain efficiency with length not number of plates. Adding a bunch of plates won't chill your wort faster. It can actually increase the chilling time.

They actually gain with both - there's no denying physics, they're not going to do worse with more plates. But longer chillers do seem to perform significantly better than shorter...

Cheers!

 

[sandyeggoxj]

They actually gain with both - there's no denying physics, they're not going to do worse with more plates. But longer chillers do seem to perform significantly better than shorter...

Cheers!

This is from the duda diesel page. And what I based my state off:

The longer, the more efficient

The more length a heat exchanger has, the more efficiently it will perform. If you made an infinitely long heat exchanger, it would be possible for the hot fluid to reach the same temperature of the cold fluid entering the unit. When your goal is to achieve lower temperatures, faster chill times, or lower water usage, choose a longer unit.

The More Plates or Channels, the less pressure drop

More plates means more channels for the fluid to flow through. This is similar to increasing the size of a pipe, which allows for more flow rate so that more fluid can be pushed through the unit. It also adds more surface area contact for a little more heat transfer, but keep in mind that plate heat exchangers are most efficient by use of convective heat transfer as opposed to conductive heat transfer, which means that the faster your fluid flows, the faster the heat transfer. The more plates you add, the more channels your fluid has to flow through, and so the slower the velocity of the fluid flowing through the channels. If you do not increase the flow rate as you add plates, it could actually lower the heat transfer rate due to low velocity fluid or even cause some of the channels to not have any flow through them from the near zero pressure drop passing through the unit.
When seeking more efficiency, always seek a longer unit. When seeking higher flow rates, add more plates to compensate for the needed flow to avoid too much pressure drop.

http://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=+wort++chiller&i=beerchillers

 

[Grannyknot]

So take out the bazooka screen. What good is it doing?

Keeps hop matter and some break out of the plate chiller.
The problem is that once I get down to around 100* during a circulation, there is so much cold break in the kettle, it limits what the bazooka screen can allow past.

 

[Grannyknot]

Plate chillers gain efficiency with length not number of plates. Adding a bunch of plates won't chill your wort faster. It can actually increase the chilling time.

With all the R&D that blichmann does on their products, I have to wonder why they've never gone to a longer design on the therminator. I was once told that on a longer plate chiller, you wind up with a distinct "hot side" and cold side, effectively making it more of a short style plate chiller when you consider the surface area that is cold enough to actually chill wort. I'm nowhere near smart enough to explain that theory in detail though.

 

[kombat]

Keeps hop matter and some break out of the plate chiller.

I don't think that's necessary.

When I first put together my setup, I bought a Hop Stopper. It's essentially just a pickup tube, enclosed in a UFO-shaped stainless steel mesh screen. I also use a cylindrical stainless steel hop screen to contain my hop pellets. The Hop Stopper was just to keep break matter from getting to my chiller.

I used it many times, and was frequently frustrated. As you've noticed, such devices tend to get caked over with break material, eventually to the point where they no longer allow wort to pass through them to the pickup tube or outlet port. In my case, I'd lose suction to my pump and be dead in the water. Plus, it's a pain to clean.

So I took it out. I still use the hop screen (it just hangs on the inside of the pot and holds the hops), but I don't have anything at all on the inside of my kettle's outlet port. I just recirculate the wort - break and all - through my pump and chiller, back into my kettle. No issues so far. As I mentioned before, I clean my chiller pretty thoroughly (backflush with hot water, then backflush with hot Oxyclean solution for 15-20 minutes, then a 5 minute rinse with cold water), and have never had an issue.

I would encourage you to just try one brew without the bazooka screen. Recirculate back into your kettle, running with the valves wide open, and your chilling water full blast. See how quickly your wort cools down. If I'm wrong, and it clogs up your chiller, you can bake it in the oven and flush it with lye to give it a thorough cleaning.

 

[Grannyknot]

I would encourage you to just try one brew without the bazooka screen. Recirculate back into your kettle, running with the valves wide open, and your chilling water full blast. See how quickly your wort cools down. If I'm wrong, and it clogs up your chiller, you can bake it in the oven and flush it with lye to give it a thorough cleaning.

I have, several times actually.
It would chill very fast down to about 100*, then things would slow to a trickle. Regardless, wort circulation isn't really what my original question was about. I was mostly just curious about people's Duda Diesel experience.

 

[kombat]

Fascinating. It's never been an issue for me. I'll bet it's actually related to the way you're hopping your wort. Do you attempt to contain your hops at all, or do you just throw them right in? Do you use leaf, pellets, or both?

There was one brew where I skipped the cylindrical hop screen and just threw the hops directly into my kettle. During chilling, I did actually get one blockage. I switched the inputs and reversed the flow momentarily, and it cleared the blockage. But as long as I use the hop screen to contain the hops, the break material never seems to plug my chiller. I run it wide open, recirculating back to the kettle, all the way down to 65° F (55° F for lagers).

 

[PlexVector]

I have, several times actually.
It would chill very fast down to about 100*, then things would slow to a trickle. Regardless, wort circulation isn't really what my original question was about. I was mostly just curious about people's Duda Diesel experience.

I plotted and graphed all the different duda diesel models looking for the sweet spot for using the least amount of well water for the best price. My well water is usually in the 60 to 63 F range once I get past the expansion bladder. I got the B3-36A, 20 plate, 18" chiller for $145 and it does exactly as advertised. I chill 5 gal from 200F to 67F directly into the fermentor in less than 10 minutes. I'll have to time it next time. My last brew day I used a hop rocket with rice hulls just before the chiller to keep all the leaf and dry hops out of the chiller. worked great! A previous brew day I forgot to whirlpool and the chiller did not work as well and it had to be from getting plugged or just too much solid matter so the efficiency fell off tremendously.

 

[Duda_Energy]

Duda Employee here. First, OP's issue:

The one thing the therminator has over our units is the inlet and outlet ports being on the opposite sides of the chiller. This is done with low flow rates in mind. Basically our units are designed for any application, while theirs are specifically meant for gravity flow. The trouble you can have (and OP is likely having) is that if you are trying to get a really low pitching temp with moderate water temps then you have to slow down your wort. Make it too slow, and it can pool inside the chiller, especially if you have purchased something with way too many plates.

Easy solution: orientate the chiller vertically, so the wort enters the unit on the bottom and flows upwards, while the water enters the top and flows downwards. This will likely solve OP's issue.



Secondly, the length vs plates debate. People stating that length is more important than plates are right, as is the guy who says they both matter, can't fight physics. What it comes down to is the longer the unit the more time the wort can spend in teh chiller with the water flowing past. With more plates, the higher you can increase your water flow rate, which has the same effect. So *if* you are pumping your water at 18gpm, the yes, 40 plates is fantastic. If you are just using your garden hose (5-12 gpm, depending on where you live), then going up to 40 has very little benefit.

All that said, I would argue that the blichman is slightly better than our 12a-40 plate, due to their design, despite them being the same size. Our 23a-20 plate, the unit I recommend for any brewer getting started, is a good 5-30% better (depending on your flowrates and temps)

 

[PlexVector]

Somewhere I read, maybe on HBT, that too fast a flow through a plate chiller during cleaning could cause eddies near sharp corners and not clean in those areas effectively. And possibly running too slow could miss some spots with the higher plate count units as mentioned earlier in this thread also. So, not too fast, and not too slow. "the Goldilocks paradox"

 

[PlexVector]

Hey Mr. Duda Energy:
1. PBW recirculating through my Duda 18" 20 plate chiller turns my water blue. Is this detrimental to the copper brazing?
2. For cleaning would standing on end with cleaner flowing upward help internal coverage of the plates?

Thanks.

I like my Duda Chiller!

 

[Duda_Energy]

PlexVector,

1) Is it blue everytime, or just the first few washes? Blue water would be copper silicate (most likely), caused by the reaction between copper oxide and sodium metasilicate (PBW). The first time you wash the chiller, this should be expected, as a result of any copper dust from the brazing process being left over. If you are still getting blue water after several washes, this indicates that the inside of your chiller is slightly rusting (and the PBW is cleaning out the rust). The most common cause of this would be if your wort is rather acidic, and then sits in the chiller before cleaning (or the cleaning isn't thorough enough).

Not something I would consider to be a major issue, but you may end up with a leaky chiller 20 years down the line. Making sure the chiller is allowed to fully drain and doesn't maintain liquid when not in use should fix this for you.


2) If you are cleaning with gravity flow, yes. If your flowrate is above 2.5 gpm per 10 plates, you should be fine.

 

[PlexVector]

PlexVector,

1) Is it blue everytime, or just the first few washes? Blue water would be copper silicate (most likely), caused by the reaction between copper oxide and sodium metasilicate (PBW). The first time you wash the chiller, this should be expected, as a result of any copper dust from the brazing process being left over. If you are still getting blue water after several washes, this indicates that the inside of your chiller is slightly rusting (and the PBW is cleaning out the rust). The most common cause of this would be if your wort is rather acidic, and then sits in the chiller before cleaning (or the cleaning isn't thorough enough).

Not something I would consider to be a major issue, but you may end up with a leaky chiller 20 years down the line. Making sure the chiller is allowed to fully drain and doesn't maintain liquid when not in use should fix this for you.


2) If you are cleaning with gravity flow, yes. If your flowrate is above 2.5 gpm per 10 plates, you should be fine.

It was just this last two times. I close the ends to keep bugs out, which I started doing two sessions ago. I may start baking it out, or using a screen rather than plug. Also the water reservoir is white, so maybe the blue is enhanced by that.

Much Thanks!

 

[Natdavis777]

Easy solution: orientate the chiller vertically, so the wort enters the unit on the bottom and flows upwards, while the water enters the top and flows downwards. This will likely solve OP's issue.

I have a 20 plate Duda Chiller and its in this exact orientation. I have a side pickup tube, cut to be almost flush with the bottom of the kettle, and I recirculate the entire batch before transferring. We have been in the 70-80s the last month and I was able to get my 10gal batch this past Sat down to 68F (might have gone lower, but I was fine with 68F) in 15 min Id say.

I run my water full throttle, and set the pump output to 50%. I have a thermometer attached to the output of my chiller, so I dont wait for the entire batch to reach pitching temps, but the actual output of the wort to hit that temp. Then I can run off into fermenters and know I am under 70F

 

[bbohanon]

I have a 20 plate Duda Chiller and its in this exact orientation. I have a side pickup tube, cut to be almost flush with the bottom of the kettle, and I recirculate the entire batch before transferring. We have been in the 70-80s the last month and I was able to get my 10gal batch this past Sat down to 68F (might have gone lower, but I was fine with 68F) in 15 min Id say.

I run my water full throttle, and set the pump output to 50%. I have a thermometer attached to the output of my chiller, so I dont wait for the entire batch to reach pitching temps, but the actual output of the wort to hit that temp. Then I can run off into fermenters and know I am under 70F

So question on all of this..I have a 30 plate Duda (B3-12A) and I have been running the ice water full and wort full recircing back to the kettle..Should I be cranking the output of the wort side to reduce the flow of wort through the Duda and going straight to the fermenter? Its certainly not knocking it to anywhere near pitching temps wide open recircing back to the kettle. I can get it to ~110-120 by recircing wide open for 15mins and I have oriented it how others and Duda have recommended and it certainly aint cooling 10 gallons down to pitching temps in 10.2 mins.
Just a note, I am recircing about 4 10lb bags of ice in water in a cooler to chill my wort..it works and I know the water is right at 40deg the entire time of water side recircing as I have kept a temp on it as I thought that was the culprit.

Its got me just about frustrated enough to go over to a CFC as its just not doing what I expected it to but it could be just me.

 

[Natdavis777]

I would suggest adding a thermometer on the output of your pump like so.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1433191484.012609.jpg

This gives you the output temp of your wort. Instead of wasting time chilling the entire batch (for me, that is 10gal), just recirculate the wort until the output reaches pitching temps. I acheived 66F in under 20 min this past Saturday. The wort in the BK was still 95F+, but that doesnt matter when your output is in within an acceptable range. I would imagine ice water would expedite the process, as I use ground water.

 

[Brettomomyces]

I would suggest adding a thermometer on the output of your pump like so.View attachment 281869

This gives you the output temp of your wort. Instead of wasting time chilling the entire batch (for me, that is 10gal), just recirculate the wort until the output reaches pitching temps. I acheived 66F in under 20 min this past Saturday. The wort in the BK was still 95F+, but that doesnt matter when your output is in within an acceptable range. I would imagine ice water would expedite the process, as I use ground water.

I do exactly this, and with my 30 plate Duda it only takes me 5 minutes to recirc down to 64f, maybe 15 to get down to 50 for lagers. Groundwater is nice and cold up here

 

[Natdavis777]

I also run about 1/2 throttle out of my pump going to the chiller. This gives more contact time with the wort. When I get down to the 70s, I can drop it to about 1/4 throttle, and watch the output temp drop a bit more.

Running the pump wide open through the plate chiller will increase chill times.

 

[TexasWine]

Running the pump wide open through the plate chiller will increase chill times.

Hmmmm..... I dunno if this is 100% true. If my memory of heat transfer class is reliable (I'm open to the fact it might not be!), what will increase chill times is sub optimal log mean temperature difference (LMTD). Because chilling wort is a batch process, optimal LMTD changes with the three variable temperatures, water temp out, wort temp in and wort temp out. You'd could spend a lot of time chasing that number if one was so inclined.

Edit: link to LMTD calculator...

http://checalc.com/solved/lmtd.html

So what I'm trying to say is that I think min chill time and the flow rates associated with it will be entirely dependent on the variables in your system.

 

[augiedoggy]

I got a 40 plate duda diesel chiller for chirstmas (the B3-12A).
My previous chiller was an 11 plate shirron chiller. It was a decent chiller, but in the summer and fall, it just didn't get me close enough to pitching temps (within reason of course). I've seen many people compare this duda diesel chiller to the blichmann chiller, but I've used both and think they are worlds apart in terms of results.

I assumed, with more plates than the shirron, I'd have a lower wort temp, but I actually feel that the duda diesel chiller is even worse. During the dead of winter, I used to be able to run my shirron chiller wide open, with the kettle valve wide open, and sometimes even have to regulate the cold water going in. I could easily hit 60 degree wort temp. With the duda diesel in the dead of winter, I've had to run the cold water wide open, and can only open the kettle valve about half way, and still cant get below 74. Just for reference, my winter tap water is around 45*.

I also feel that it gets clogged much much easier than the shirron chiller.
Its been suggested to me that I do a long term PBW soak to try to remove anything that a backflush cleaning can't get.
Has anyone else experienced similar issues with their Duda Diesel product?

Im sure someone mentioned this by now but as duda clearly states on thier site, longer chillers are more effective than more plates alone... I have the duda 23a-20 plate chiller with the same length as the shirron and it works awesome.

 

[augiedoggy]

This is from the duda diesel page. And what I based my state off:

http://www.dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=+wort++chiller&i=beerchillers

this is exactly the same reason I just purchased a 36" long cartridge heater and extension for my rims tube...I believe it will be more effective my adding length not just watts.

 

[augiedoggy]

It was just this last two times. I close the ends to keep bugs out, which I started doing two sessions ago. I may start baking it out, or using a screen rather than plug. Also the water reservoir is white, so maybe the blue is enhanced by that.

Much Thanks!

I bet its from the moisture your trapping with the plug as well...I left pbw solutions in my chiller for 2 days and the water did not turn blue dumped/sitting in a white bucket....
I also use a braided screen to further filter the incoming wort and I have no cooling issues whatsoever...
I normally cool in one pass dierectly to the fermenter but not in the summer months.

 

[bbohanon]

I would suggest adding a thermometer on the output of your pump like so.View attachment 281869

This gives you the output temp of your wort. Instead of wasting time chilling the entire batch (for me, that is 10gal), just recirculate the wort until the output reaches pitching temps. I acheived 66F in under 20 min this past Saturday. The wort in the BK was still 95F+, but that doesnt matter when your output is in within an acceptable range. I would imagine ice water would expedite the process, as I use ground water.

I have a thermo on the output side as I rigged it up nice with quick disconnects and all. I am thinking I need to crank back the output of the wort from the BK to 1/3 - 1/2 output to the chiller with the ice water recircing full and slowly let the wort go from the BK to the fermenters on a single pass rather then a recirc to hit the target temp. More surface exposure to the cold water on a slower pass makes sense.
Will give this a go on the next batch and report back. I really want this plate chiller to work out..

 

[Duda_Energy]

So question on all of this..I have a 30 plate Duda (B3-12A) and I have been running the ice water full and wort full recircing back to the kettle..Should I be cranking the output of the wort side to reduce the flow of wort through the Duda and going straight to the fermenter? Its certainly not knocking it to anywhere near pitching temps wide open recircing back to the kettle. I can get it to ~110-120 by recircing wide open for 15mins and I have oriented it how others and Duda have recommended and it certainly aint cooling 10 gallons down to pitching temps in 10.2 mins.
Just a note, I am recircing about 4 10lb bags of ice in water in a cooler to chill my wort..it works and I know the water is right at 40deg the entire time of water side recircing as I have kept a temp on it as I thought that was the culprit.

If anything you may need to slow the wort flow rate to allow it to spend time in the chiller. What is your water flow rate? Your results depend almost entirely on the water speed. Also, what pitchig temp are you trying to get to?

 

[bbohanon]

If anything you may need to slow the wort flow rate to allow it to spend time in the chiller. What is your water flow rate? Your results depend almost entirely on the water speed. Also, what pitchig temp are you trying to get to?

Pitching temps for me are right at 65-70deg. I think I need to take some advice from previous folks and just crank down the output until I get it coming out the other side at the temp I need and go straight from the BK to the fermenter (No recirc).
Will try this on my next batch and see how it works out.

 

[brian4508]

Love mine. I have it mounted vertically like Duda suggest and I chill a 1/2 bbl in under 10 minutes to 64*. It's a beast

 

[Natdavis777]

Pitching temps for me are right at 65-70deg. I think I need to take some advice from previous folks and just crank down the output until I get it coming out the other side at the temp I need and go straight from the BK to the fermenter (No recirc).
Will try this on my next batch and see how it works out.

When I gravity fed from my BK>Chiller>Fermenter, I had no issues hitting fermentation temps. This was also in the winter. I acutally had to speed the wort flow up in order to keep the temp in the 60s. So its possible in one pass.

Once I started using pumps, I found I wasnt able to achieve the same results, despite cutting the throttle down to a drip (for the single pass method). That is why I recirculate the whole batch now.

Since you use ice water, Id try the single pass method and see how it fairs. If it works, awesome! If you still are coming out too hot though, I would recommend cutting your wort flow into the chiller to 1/2 speed and see how long it takes you to get to say, 80F. Then cut it to 1/4 verify what temp it drops to then (output only, not the entire batch). This should get you close, if not to, your pitching temps. It works well for me, and my ground water is a heck of a lot warmer than ice water.

 

[Duda_Energy]

Pitching temps for me are right at 65-70deg. I think I need to take some advice from previous folks and just crank down the output until I get it coming out the other side at the temp I need and go straight from the BK to the fermenter (No recirc).
Will try this on my next batch and see how it works out.

This should help, but also if you can measure the flowrate of your ice water I can calculate precisely how long the single pass chill is *supposed* to take, and from there we can determine whether the unit is under performing or working how it should

 

[bbohanon]

This should help, but also if you can measure the flowrate of your ice water I can calculate precisely how long the single pass chill is *supposed* to take, and from there we can determine whether the unit is under performing or working how it should

10-4. I will measure the next time I get a chance to hook it all up. I need to run some cleaner through it before I whip up the next batch so I can get a measurement on this and report back.