New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Gary25]

Question on your post fermentation dry hopping: I assume there are no issues with oxygen introduction at this stage? I added dry hops after about three days of active fermentation knowing any added oxygen would be consumed in the ongoing/continued fermentation. I plan to try CO2 injection on my next batch after adding dry hops to the fermenter. Are you adding dry hops at multiple points? Any advice on techniques?

(my apologies if this has been discussed earlier in the thread—I’ll be sure to read through it).

 

[Dgallo]

Simcoe LUPOMAX + Mosaic LUPOMAX or Simcoe Pellet + Mosaic LUPOMAX? I haven’t been brewing as much as I’d like lately but am really curious about LUPO vs Pellet. Building my next beer off your comments from Omega:
Cascade Mash
LUPO Late boil
Phantasm WP
Bells T90 DH

Pretty expensive beer. Lol. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.

Simcoe t90. Let me know what you think of the phantasm

 

[Gary25]

I've recirculated hops with good results but have noticed that it takes longer for the "hop harshness" to subside. Recently, I've been injecting CO2 through the dump port to rouse the dry hops. I attach the 2" butterfly valve directly to the conical bottom and attach the "capped" elbow to that. Post fermentation, I soft crash to 58 degrees, remove the elbow which now contains settled yeast. I then sanitize and attach a 2" gas post fitting to the valve and purge with CO2 before tightening the TC clamp. Prior to adding the dry hops, I slowly drain the remaining yeast from the cone using a gas post and silicone tubing, add the hops and rouse once per day for 3 days, then crash. My thinking is that when the hops settle in between rousing, there's more hop to beer surface area as the hops are in the cone and not in the elbow. I pressure ferment @ 10-12psi and dry hop at 58 degrees. I'm sure that hop recirculation does a more effective job but I didn't think the difference was significant and hop rousing is simply an easier process. Not giving up on recirculation but believe hop rousing is nearly as effective.

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Above questions were primarily for k-daddy, but any responses are welcome.

 

[Dgallo]

Above questions were primarily for k-daddy, but any responses are welcome.

There is so much info in this thread regarding peoples various practices for low o2 dryhoping. Click the search icon, click the drop down for search this thread only and use the keyword “dryhop, dryhopping”

That way you can check out the different ways people do it and find the one that would work best for your equipment

 

[wepeeler]

Simcoe t90. Let me know what you think of the phantasm

I've been in LOVE with Simcoe lately. It's so complex. Early on I get strawberries and vanilla, then it fades to soft citrus.

I paired it with Strata this past batch, currently fermenting with Coastal Haze.

 

[Gary25]

There is so much info in this thread regarding peoples various practices for low o2 dryhoping. Click the search icon, click the drop down for search this thread only and use the keyword “dryhop, dryhopping”

That way you can check out the different ways people do it and find the one that would work best for your equipment

Thanks—will do!

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Simcoe LUPOMAX + Mosaic LUPOMAX or Simcoe Pellet + Mosaic LUPOMAX? I haven’t been brewing as much as I’d like lately but am really curious about LUPO vs Pellet. Building my next beer off your comments from Omega:
Cascade Mash
LUPO Late boil
Phantasm WP
Bells T90 DH

Pretty expensive beer. Lol. Can’t wait to see how it turns out.

Unfortunately, I don’t think there is a simco lipomax. Perplexing tbh since they’ve gone lipomax with the other old school hops and some of the newer hops. Wish they would, I haven’t seen it

 

[TBryerton]

You folks that are enjoying your Simcoe, where are you buying from?

 

[Dgallo]

You folks that are enjoying your Simcoe, where are you buying from?

I have some solid cryo that I got from yakima Chief and the t90 is from YVH. My last 2 lbs from from them have been awesome. Very orange/orange pith forward with a beautiful “hoppy” flavor/aroma I can only describe as that

 

[R.A.I.D]

Incognito goes for €12/$12 for 15ml in Europe so $15 for 20ml isn't too bad a price. Used it a few times and it really helps with losses.

Link to European webshop?

 

[Eltes]

Link to European webshop?

I've gotten mine from the Malt Miller

 

[Jesse Runowski]

Here’s my latest Double NEIPA AT 8.1%. Just 2row, oat malt, and 3% honey malt.

Looks great! What % of malted oats did you end up going with? I've been around 20-25% and I with a spelt addition of 5-10%.

 

[murphyslaw]

Gonna try A24 for the first time. What temp do you all suggest?

 

[Dgallo]

Gonna try A24 for the first time. What temp do you all suggest?

I do a little temp drive with it;
-Pitch at 68-70
-let it freerise to 72-74
-then I push it to 75/76 on day 2 or three and hold it there for 3 days.
-then I will let it free fall to 70 and will hold it there until I’m ready to softcrash

This was something that happened by accident one time in the summer when my temp control went out but it gave me the best ester profile from it so now I do it lol. I get nectarine/stone fruit with citrus leaning towards orange. It’s firm but still allows hops to shine

 

[murphyslaw]

I do a little temp drive with it;
-Pitch at 68-70
-let it freerise to 72-74
-then I push it to 75/76 on day 2 or three and hold it there for 3 days.
-then I will let it free fall to 70 and will hold it there until I’m ready to softcrash

This was something that happened by accident one time in the summer when my temp control went out but it gave me the best ester profile from it so now I do it lol. I get nectarine/stone fruit with citrus leaning towards orange. It’s firm but still allows hops to shine

Perfect, thanks.

I do a similar progression with other yeasts but with 6- 8 degrees cooler. Seems most pros do it warm like you. I’ll give it a try.

 

[aaronm13]

Link to European webshop?

https://www.geterbrewed.ie/citra-incognito-15ml/
This the place in Ireland I buy from. They have Spectrum in homebrew sizes too.

 

[eugles]

For the folks overbuilding starters, what starting cell count do you use for Omega yeasts / Cosmic as a starting point? On their site they say 150m - 500m range depending on strain. Getting first brew day in like 8 months next week and I am giddy.

 

[wepeeler]

For the folks overbuilding starters, what starting cell count do you use for Omega yeasts / Cosmic as a starting point? On their site they say 150m - 500m range depending on strain. Getting first brew day in like 8 months next week and I am giddy.

Use the date on the package to determine an approximate starting cell count. http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php
Use that calculator to see how much dme to use to overbuild and harvest.

 

[wepeeler]

Anyone used S-33 for this style yet? I was talking to a reputable brewer near me, and he mentioned knowing some people who used S-33 for their hazys. I researched a bit online, and I do see that people have made, in their opinions, great neipas with it. It's technically a Belgian yeast, but I may have to give it a whirl.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

It's technically a Belgian yeast, but I may have to give it a whirl.

I think it is technically an English ESB style yeast that Fermentis labels oddly to say that it can be used for Belgian styles. I have only used it S-33 once in an American Pale Ale. I thought it turned out nice. The S-33 batch was a touch fuller and sweeter than the US-05 batch and had notes of what I would describe as dried apricot. I am not quite sure how the attenuation of S-33 compares with a yeast like London III/Verdant. I have been wanting to use S-33 in a "Session NEIPA" (Hazy Pale Ale?) where I think the low attenuation would work well.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Anyone used S-33 for this style yet? I was talking to a reputable brewer near me, and he mentioned knowing some people who used S-33 for their hazys. I researched a bit online, and I do see that people have made, in their opinions, great neipas with it. It's technically a Belgian yeast, but I may have to give it a whirl.

No it's not, S-33 is another derivative of the old EDME homebrew yeast, which makes it a close cousin of Windsor and Munton ordinary. It's weird how this idea it's Belgian has taken root but it's nonsense - other than a Belgian brewery may have been using it, but it's not a "Belgian" yeast in the sense that most people would use the term - it's non-phenolic and low attenuation.

A few people have used Windsor in NEIPAs and you'd expect similar results - you'll get a higher FG and so some impression of mouthfeel from that, and I suspect it may be like its close relative T-58 in being quite biotransformy, but I've not tested it.

 

[eugles]

Use the date on the package to determine an approximate starting cell count. http://www.brewunited.com/yeast_calculator.php
Use that calculator to see how much dme to use to overbuild and harvest.

Sure, that's the calculator I use as well, but is this starting amount 150 or 500?

 

[CascadesBrewer]

For the folks overbuilding starters, what starting cell count do you use for Omega yeasts / Cosmic as a starting point? On their site they say 150m - 500m range depending on strain. Getting first brew day in like 8 months next week and I am giddy.

150 to 500 Billion per pack? Where on their site did you find that info?

I have been a little confused about the cell counts in Omega. I thought they used to advertise 150B cells per pack. Then they started adding "50% More Yeast" to their packs. Does that mean they contain 225B cells? Do they vary the amount by strain?

 

[wepeeler]

No it's not, S-33 is another derivative of the old EDME homebrew yeast, which makes it a close cousin of Windsor and Munton ordinary. It's weird how this idea it's Belgian has taken root but it's nonsense - other than a Belgian brewery may have been using it, but it's not a "Belgian" yeast in the sense that most people would use the term - it's non-phenolic and low attenuation.

A few people have used Windsor in NEIPAs and you'd expect similar results - you'll get a higher FG and so some impression of mouthfeel from that, and I suspect it may be like its close relative T-58 in being quite biotransformy, but I've not tested it.

I was just going off what their website says. Ideal for Belgians and English ales, but also ideal for neipas. I'm very interested in trying it. Split batch coming soon!

https://fermentis.com/en/product/safale-s-33/

 

[wepeeler]

Sure, that's the calculator I use as well, but is this starting amount 150 or 500?

I would enter in 150 bil and the date of the pack and go from there. I very highly doubt it's 500 bil cells.

 

[eugles]

150 to 500 Billion per pack? Where on their site did you find that info?

I have been a little confused about the cell counts in Omega. I thought they used to advertise 150B cells per pack. Then they started adding "50% More Yeast" to their packs. Does that mean they contain 225B cells? Do they vary the amount by strain?

I found it here HomebrewingResources

And looks like i read it wrong, it's actually:

As a result of genetic differences, we have observed strain to strain variation in cell counts even under identical growth conditions. Certain strains may contain up to 500 billion cells per pack while most strains will contain at least 225 billion cells per pack.

 

[wepeeler]

I found it here HomebrewingResources

And looks like i read it wrong, it's actually:

They claim, as do other yeast manufacturers that you can direct pitch for 5 gallons under 1.060, but I make starters for all my liquid yeast. Not only can you harvest directly from the starter, as I do, but you'll give the yeast a head's start to chew up your wort. Healthy yeast means better fermentation = better beer!

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Pitch rate and temp control are most important for a clean ferment in my opinion. I always build starters as well, and use a calculator to get to the appropriate amount.

 

[eugles]

They claim, as do other yeast manufacturers that you can direct pitch for 5 gallons under 1.060, but I make starters for all my liquid yeast. Not only can you harvest directly from the starter, as I do, but you'll give the yeast a head's start to chew up your wort. Healthy yeast means better fermentation = better beer!

Totally! - I always make a starter and overbuild to get yeast for next batch or two. I just had no idea what the starting point is for Omega unlike Imperial which states how many cells are in package (approximately). I know I won't be underpitching, but I've always wondered about overpitching. There's been a ton of stuff I've read and listened to on podcasts about pro brewers making sure to use the smallest amount of yeast possible for a good fermentation. Maybe I'm just overthinking it.

 

[wepeeler]

Totally! - I always make a starter and overbuild to get yeast for next batch or two. I just had no idea what the starting point is for Omega unlike Imperial which states how many cells are in package (approximately). I know I won't be underpitching, but I've always wondered about overpitching. There's been a ton of stuff I've read and listened to on podcasts about pro brewers making sure to use the smallest amount of yeast possible for a good fermentation. Maybe I'm just overthinking it.

I think it's less critical on the homebrew level. Obviously we'd like to pitch the perfect amount every time, but without a microscope and actually counting cells, we really don't know. Underpitching stresses yeast, which can lead to off flavors (some of which are ok depending on style), and overpitching can lead to yeast dropping out early and not finishing fermentation. Personally, I always overbuild, with the thought that I don't count cells, and I'd rather err on the side of more, not less. The more I've read about yeast, the common theme is always take less healthy (viable) yeast vs more unhealthy yeast.

Back to NEIPA talk and I'll be kegging a split batch Simcoe/Strata 50/50 on Thursday. Big WP addition and even larger dry hop. Coastal Haze and 1318. Can't friggin wait.