New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I guess my concern is wether or not it will get clogged during the transfer if the hop mass/sludge on the bottom of the keg is higher than the end of the diptube. Yes, the diptube is covered by the filter, but will it pull the beer through the hop bed or get stuck and clog?
No. The filter will not clog. The limiting factor was the rate the beer would flow through the hop sludge. They had absorbed too much.

Even the fruit example. It never truly clogged
 
I guess my concern is wether or not it will get clogged during the transfer if the hop mass/sludge on the bottom of the keg is higher than the end of the diptube. Yes, the diptube is covered by the filter, but will it pull the beer through the hop bed or get stuck and clog?
I have problems with this filter setup if not cold crashing long enough, 12h is the minimum but better 24h. I cut my diptube a little bit im quiet sure its lower then the hops sometimes but havent had issues
 
I have tried different filters and bags. They all let hop particles through to some extend. I found the best solution is to cut the dip tube so it does not goes down into the sediments. And skip the filters.
 
@BrewingAround @Beerdrinker85
Here’s my results with some strata and Bru-1

50% Pilsner
20% GP
25% malted oats
5% malted wheat

Hotside: Strata, Bru-1, mosaic

DH: Strata, Citra, Strata, Bru-1

All hops used a full 2oz package, 14oz total.

Verdant IPA at 70. 1.058 - 1.011

Aroma is punchy sweet mango, pineapple and a little cream. Taste is big time pineapple, citrus and just a touch grassy.

My buddy couldn’t believe there wasn’t pineapple juice added to the keg. I really love it.

This was 8oz of dry hop all in primary which is a 10 gallon keg with a Janish filter and the dip tube cut to leave 3L of dead space, which I find perfect for a 8-10oz dry hop. I’ve never had a clog and I’ve even transferred out of this without a good cold crash. @HopsAreGood

Edit : hop details in screenshot
 

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Hotside: Strata, Bru-1, mosaic

DH: Strata, Citra, Strata, Bru-1

That's awesome. I'm planning to brew with almost exact hops as you did. Might actually use those same hops since your aroma and taste description sounds absolutely delicious 🤤 Could you post what kind of amounts/ratio of hops did you use during hotside and DH?
 
Question for you guys. I followed OP's advice and did a single dry hop on day 3 at high krausen. It's now day 7 and I believe I'm close to final gravity at 1.012. I tasted a the gravity sample and it tasted extremely bitter and "hot". Like it burned my tongue. Yeast used was cellar science "cali" yeast which I believe is just chico. How long am I good to let this thing mellow out with the hops in there? I've always steered towards a 24-48 dry hop, so no experience with DH'ing this early. Thanks in advance!
 
Question for you guys. I followed OP's advice and did a single dry hop on day 3 at high krausen. It's now day 7 and I believe I'm close to final gravity at 1.012. I tasted a the gravity sample and it tasted extremely bitter and "hot". Like it burned my tongue. Yeast used was cellar science "cali" yeast which I believe is just chico. How long am I good to let this thing mellow out with the hops in there? I've always steered towards a 24-48 dry hop, so no experience with DH'ing this early. Thanks in advance!
You are experiencing hop burn. That’s what happens dryhoping during fermentation. Many participants in this thread have deviated their processes from the original recipe.

you need to cold condition your beer until it goes away
 
Tapped the latest hazy and it’s delicious. Made some slight modifications to my original grist and happy with the results. Bru-1, Azacca, and Sabro is a winning combo. Next batch, I’ll replace the Sabro with El Dorado. This beer is bursting with ripe pineapple, peach, and mango. It’s easy drinking at 5.5%.
.
36IBUs
.
Bru-1, Azacca, Sabro
.
3rd Generation yeast starter of London Ale 1318
.
Made the recipe public for those interested in brewing it.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homeb...02-golden-haze-ipa-bru-1-azacca-sabro-/370629
612D8F1E-4366-43DB-A3DE-AB331EB3340D.jpeg
 
I got a bunch of HBC 630 from YCH sensory evaluation a few months back, and the candied cherry smell it had during the rub got me really excited to brew with it. Online resources include these descriptors: "Sweet Fruits and Berries like Raspberry and Cherry, along with sweet candy-like esters and lactones giving creamy notes of peach and banana. "

5 Gal batch:
80% 2-row
10% White Wheat
10% Malted Oats

1oz HBC522 @ 10min

2oz HBC630 @ WP 165F
1oz Citra @ WP 165F

DH @ 60F at about 9 days
4oz HBC630
5oz Citra

Tasting notes:
Aroma - big candied orange and peaches, in line with what I got from smelling the hops.
Flavor - definitely candied pineapple with some mandarin notes, but I was not impressed by the final product 2 weeks after kegging. It was just missing that explosive flavor component that you'd get from most of the banger hops. I kept thinking it'll mellow out, but it just didn't... Maybe doing a single dry hop as opposed to my usual 2-step process is what had the less than desired impact here?

At any rate, after about 2 weeks I added 2oz HBC692 (Talus) and 1oz Citra to keg in a muslin bag and ooo-wee, this beer took off. It's basically a big pineapple in a glass now. I sense some peaches or peach rings as I drink through a pint, but the sweet pineapple is totally unstoppable and unmistakable, it dominates flavor and aroma at this point. Highly recommend.

(pic from a couple weeks ago, don't judge my tree)
1612807352646.png
 
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Tapped the latest hazy and it’s delicious. Made some slight modifications to my original grist and happy with the results. Bru-1, Azacca, and Sabro is a winning combo. Next batch, I’ll replace the Sabro with El Dorado. This beer is bursting with ripe pineapple, peach, and mango. It’s easy drinking at 5.5%.
.
36IBUs
.
Bru-1, Azacca, Sabro
.
3rd Generation yeast starter of London Ale 1318
.
Made the recipe public for those interested in brewing it.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homeb...02-golden-haze-ipa-bru-1-azacca-sabro-/370629View attachment 717511

That glass is cool as hell! Beer looks good too :mug:
 
I got a bunch of HBC 630 from YCH sensory evaluation a few months back, and the candied cherry smell it had during the rub got me really excited to brew with it. Online resources include these descriptors: "Sweet Fruits and Berries like Raspberry and Cherry, along with sweet candy-like esters and lactones giving creamy notes of peach and banana. "

5 Gal batch:
80% 2-row
10% White Wheat
10% Malted Oats

1oz HBC522 @ 10min

2oz HBC630 @ WP 165F
1oz Citra @ WP 165F

DH @ 60F at about 9 days
4oz HBC630
5oz Citra

Tasting notes:
Aroma - big candied orange and peaches, in line with what I got from smelling the hops.
Flavor - definitely candied pineapple with some mandarin notes, but I was not impressed by the final product 2 weeks after kegging. It was just missing that explosive flavor component that you'd get from most of the banger hops. I kept thinking it'll mellow out, but it just didn't... Maybe doing a single dry hop as opposed to my usual 2-step process is what had the less than desired impact here?

At any rate, after about 2 weeks I added 2oz HBC692 (Talus) and 1oz Citra to keg in a muslin bag and ooo-wee, this beer took off. It's basically a big pineapple in a glass now. I sense some peaches or peach rings as I drink through a pint, but the sweet pineapple is totally unstoppable and unmistakable, it dominates flavor and aroma at this point. Highly recommend.

(pic from a couple weeks ago, don't judge my tree)
View attachment 717764
So you put bagged hops on the serving keg at serving temps?
 
Yep, tied a muslin bag with non flavored floss and left CO2 running while I put it in. Also purged ~10 times after.
I did the same thing once. It lifted a decent beer to an amazing beer. I don't know if the hops would have eventually faded and the beer overcome by oxidation. It was so good that the keg didn't last long enough for me to find out.
 
I saw this in another thread regarding IBUs and am curious what folks in the NEIPA world think about it. Does it change anyone's thinking regarding the small 30 or 60 minute bittering additions and even late boil and whirlpool additions with pellets?

According to quite recent detailed research conducted by Professor Christopher S. Hamilton, Ph.D at Hillsdale College, in conjunction with his students, pellet hops essentially deliver all of the IBU's that they are ever going to deliver within only about 30 minutes, and they are at about 90% of achieving this end by 20 minutes. And they are about 70%-75% of the way there in only 5-10 minutes. And get this, they are ballpark 60% of the way home within as little as 1 minute. His research renders all current IBU calculators totally useless when dealing with pellet hops.
 
I can see they deliver what ibus they are gonna deliver in that amount of time but it doesnt change the different characteristics they provide at each time frame of the boil. so yes you will get your ibus but i dont really care about ibus in that sense, more about what flavor and aroma profile i am trying to achieve. yes i do use ibu as a general guide but not in a way that it changes what times i make my hop additions. this is just my opinion on the matter. so if there was any easy way to add and remove the hops aaaannd still get good extraction, then you could remove them after an allotted amount of time to reduce trub in the fermenter, but other then that i dont see a benefit.
 
Appreciate the share! Just ordered the hops from YVH and put in a grain order at my local. Hope to put it in the fermenter this weekend.
Quick shoutout to Yakima Valley Hops. Had never ordered from them before. Placed my order Tuesday afternoon and hops arrived this morning clear across the country. Even included a nice sticker for the fridge.
 
Ive
Quick shoutout to Yakima Valley Hops. Had never ordered from them before. Placed my order Tuesday afternoon and hops arrived this morning clear across the country. Even included a nice sticker for the fridge.
I’ve had my order delivered next day before and I’m in New Jersey. It usually takes 2-3 days, which is still quite fast, but I couldn’t believe it when my order literally arrived the day after I ordered it.
 
Tapped the latest hazy and it’s delicious. Made some slight modifications to my original grist and happy with the results. Bru-1, Azacca, and Sabro is a winning combo. Next batch, I’ll replace the Sabro with El Dorado. This beer is bursting with ripe pineapple, peach, and mango. It’s easy drinking at 5.5%.
.
36IBUs
.
Bru-1, Azacca, Sabro
.
3rd Generation yeast starter of London Ale 1318
.
Made the recipe public for those interested in brewing it.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homeb...02-golden-haze-ipa-bru-1-azacca-sabro-/370629View attachment 717511
Checked out your recipe. What brewing salts did you use to build up your R/O water?
 
I saw this in another thread regarding IBUs and am curious what folks in the NEIPA world think about it. Does it change anyone's thinking regarding the small 30 or 60 minute bittering additions and even late boil and whirlpool additions with pellets?
This is really interesting, correct me if i'm wrong but when taking the average sample wort size of 1.4 liters, I've calculated that approx. 1.5oz in 5gal at a wp temp of 170f, if not cooled lower before 10mins gives a whopping 60ibu.
Thats pretty crazy how much bittering you still get from the whirlpool.
6x as much as beersmith calculates.

Also interesting to see a small dip occurring at 90c, I've heard on a podcast the KO addition being less bitter then the whirlpool addition, could have something to do with time spend on 90c.
 
Well that sucks. I always choose the cheapest shipping option and never seems to matter. Where are you in Jersey?
I'm based in Ireland but use a parcel forwarding service (Polar Express) in Englishtown NJ. Yakima have stopped international delivery for smaller homebrew quantities. Package went all over the place, Utah, Nebraska, Illinois, Pennsylvania and Jersey. maybe the snow storms slowed things down. Package still hasn't moved. Probably be another 2 weeks before I get the hops.
 
Question for you folks here and especially London III and Imperial Juice users. I frequently see my beers brewed with the strains finish at a lower gravity than the software I use predicts they would. I totally understand that it’s just a prediction though. My mash temps seem to be on point, so I’m just wondering what this could be. I always build up a starter and pitch what I think is the right amount of cells based on the calculators online. Could this be over pitching? I know it’s not infection because they do finish out, but maybe four to six SG points lower than I would expect.
 
Question for you folks here and especially London III and Imperial Juice users. I frequently see my beers brewed with the strains finish at a lower gravity than the software I use predicts they would. I totally understand that it’s just a prediction though. My mash temps seem to be on point, so I’m just wondering what this could be. I always build up a starter and pitch what I think is the right amount of cells based on the calculators online. Could this be over pitching? I know it’s not infection because they do finish out, but maybe four to six SG points lower than I would expect.
What attenuation are you getting?
So many factors effect attenuation; mash temp, malt bill, pitch rate, aeration, nutrition availability, fermentation temps, probably missed a few.
 
Question for you folks here and especially London III and Imperial Juice users. I frequently see my beers brewed with the strains finish at a lower gravity than the software I use predicts they would. I totally understand that it’s just a prediction though. My mash temps seem to be on point, so I’m just wondering what this could be. I always build up a starter and pitch what I think is the right amount of cells based on the calculators online. Could this be over pitching? I know it’s not infection because they do finish out, but maybe four to six SG points lower than I would expect.

if you are shooting for a higher FG all you have to do is mash a bit higher and do a mashout. you're probably just mashing low and not doing a mashout.

edit: of course, as we all know, you could be getting hop creep if you are dry hopping warmer too.
 
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Question for you folks here and especially London III and Imperial Juice users. I frequently see my beers brewed with the strains finish at a lower gravity than the software I use predicts they would. I totally understand that it’s just a prediction though. My mash temps seem to be on point, so I’m just wondering what this could be. I always build up a starter and pitch what I think is the right amount of cells based on the calculators online. Could this be over pitching? I know it’s not infection because they do finish out, but maybe four to six SG points lower than I would expect.

I use Imperial Juice, mash between 152 and 155, and usually hit between 1.011 and 1.013 which is lower than my software predicts as well. I haven't put too much thought into it because I like the way the beers turn out. The few I've made that came out around 1.017 weren't necessarily all that much better or worse.
 
I use Imperial Juice, mash between 152 and 155, and usually hit between 1.011 and 1.013 which is lower than my software predicts as well. I haven't put too much thought into it because I like the way the beers turn out. The few I've made that came out around 1.017 weren't necessarily all that much better or worse.
If you brew with a certain yeast every time, you can take your attenuation numbers and average them out and punch them in your brew software for what the yeast does and adjust your recipe from there. Ever since I did that, I'm able to hit my FG numbers within a point every time. For the record, I use 1318/Juice for all my NEIPA's.
 
If you brew with a certain yeast every time, you can take your attenuation numbers and average them out and punch them in your brew software for what the yeast does and adjust your recipe from there. Ever since I did that, I'm able to hit my FG numbers within a point every time. For the record, I use 1318/Juice for all my NEIPA's.

Exactly. I'm not too scientific about it, but when I look at the software I'll assume it finishes a bit lower and adjust my target O.G. if I'm shooting for a particular ABV.
 
Had to dump my batch. Insane hop burn and fusil alcohol taste. I followed the advice of members here and cold crashed for 4 days at 36f to see if it helped. No luck. Shame, and it was a 10g batch :( I'm not sure what happened, but I'm pretty sure I won't ever dry hop that early again. This is the first batch I can remember that was unfixable.
 
Had to dump my batch. Insane hop burn and fusil alcohol taste. I followed the advice of members here and cold crashed for 4 days at 36f to see if it helped. No luck. Shame, and it was a 10g batch :( I'm not sure what happened, but I'm pretty sure I won't ever dry hop that early again. This is the first batch I can remember that was unfixable.

What hops did you use, at what quantities, and timing in the process? The alcohol taste isn’t going to come from an early dryhop. What yeast did you use? What temps did you ferment at? What was your OG/FG?
 
Had to dump my batch. Insane hop burn and fusil alcohol taste. I followed the advice of members here and cold crashed for 4 days at 36f to see if it helped. No luck. Shame, and it was a 10g batch :( I'm not sure what happened, but I'm pretty sure I won't ever dry hop that early again. This is the first batch I can remember that was unfixable.
I would say if it took throwing out a 10G batch to learn not to dry hop early, then that batch was well worth the time and money. :)

Also, no offense to the people giving this advice, but as a rule of thumb I wouldn’t take advice from anyone that tells you to dry hop on day X. If you really want to DH during fermentation you should do it off gravity. If my batch takes 36 hours to start fermentation, and yours kicks off almost instantly, day 3 is a very different thing for us.
 
Had to dump my batch. Insane hop burn and fusil alcohol taste. I followed the advice of members here and cold crashed for 4 days at 36f to see if it helped. No luck. Shame, and it was a 10g batch :( I'm not sure what happened, but I'm pretty sure I won't ever dry hop that early again. This is the first batch I can remember that was unfixable.
See if you can get some biofine, it will help clear it, it will mellow out at the end. Other Half beers are best at 2 months according to Sam lol so maybe give it time if you have the space.
Some people seem to dig this hopburn.
 
After years of lurking here, I am finally posting after being tormented by my attempts at this recipe. I have brewed this recipe twice now and each time I find that I end up with a beer that is a hop bomb, possibly citra, but not in a good way. It is very green and never really conditions to a proper level even after 2 months of refrigerated bottle conditioning.

My setup/process is fairly simple compared to many here and some steps just won't work for me such as cold crashing or controlled ferm temps as I don't have the room for the equipment. I do BIAB, my "whirlpool" is done with a paddle and hop spider which then goes into a Spiedel fermenter. That stays in my basement which is around 62-64 these days. Dry hopping is done with loose hop pellets at 48 hours after pitching and bottled on day 12. I bottle, not keg but I have had good results with no/low oxidation simply by priming direct to the bottle and leaving no headspace.

Curious I don't think I am confusing vegetal/grassy off flavors with what I am experiencing, but perhaps I am? Or maybe the recipe is over hopped? One thing is for sure, what I brewed has a long way to go before it is even close to the Treehouse IPA's in my beer fridge.
 
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