New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[blkmagik98]

I know...there are a few homebrew sites based in Europe that have it broken down into smaller sizes, but they won’t ship to the US. I’d love to do a beer with incognito, cryo, and Lupomax, but getting the incognito seems impossible at this point.

Too rich for my blood too but at least YVH say they're trying to do smaller quantities for homebrewers. We'll see I guess.

 

[HopsAreGood]

Too rich for my blood too but at least YVH say they're trying to do smaller quantities for homebrewers. We'll see I guess.

Have they said that? I’d be thrilled if they started to offer it in smaller sizes.

 

[Dgallo]

Have they said that? I’d be thrilled if they started to offer it in smaller sizes.

Yeah. Haas is either a part owner or big investor in YVH now, so they are going to be the sole provider of Hb portions of incognito in the us

 

[HopsAreGood]

Yeah. Haas is either a part owner or big investor in YVH now, so they are going to be the sole provider of Hb portions of incognito in the us

Awesome. Any idea when?

 

[Dgallo]

Awesome. Any idea when?

No clue. Anything I’ve ever found on it was “soon” lol

 

[blkmagik98]

Have they said that? I’d be thrilled if they started to offer it in smaller sizes.

It mentions it on this page- INCOGNITO®

 

[secretlevel]

Assuming all of the best practices that are constantly discussed in this thread are followed, the number one factor in terms of how good the finished product comes out is the quality of the hops. I’ve been a part of this thread for a while now, as have many of the other posters, and the processes and techniques that have been discussed at great lengths are at minimum on par with many professional breweries. In many instances I’d say they are even better.

I’ve made somewhere between 75-100 batches of super hoppy NE style ipas, and have had some batches that I would honestly say were better than 99% of the best commercial examples available.

The more I’ve thought about it, the more I’ve come to understand that IF all of the best practices regarding our processes and techniques are followed, the only other variable is the quality of the hops. It’s a HUGE factor if you’re chasing that dragon that you can’t quite seem to get.

As @VirginiaHops1 said above, the single most common thing I hear when listening to countless podcasts with highly respected brewers of this style of beer is the quality of the hops. They talk about the selection process, variance from lot to lot, farm to farm, year to year, etc..I’ve even heard some of them talking about the specific temperature at which they store them.

I’ve recently been looking into sourcing hops outside of the typical LHBS, Yakima valley hops, farmhouse, moorbeer, northern brewer, etc....The problem is that it’s nearly impossible to get the same quality of hops that pro brewers get as a home brewer.

I will say that I’ve had some great success using Lupomax and cryo hops, and I’m really trying to get my hands on some incognito but that’s proved to be very difficult in the US. The European sites that carry it in homebrew quantities won’t ship here.

So anyway, I’d agree one thousand percent that the quality of the hops we can get and use, is paramount to how good our final product turns out.

You can be a phenomenal chef but if your ingredients are mediocre, your food will also be mediocre.

Hear that man. I'm nowhere near as close to your numbers, I'm probably around 25 IPA batches in (rookie numbers), but I definitely notice some of these differences. One of the first west coast IPA's I made was all Centennial and Mosaic, it came out a huge blueberry bomb. I loved it.

I brewed up a similar west coast recently, same-ish recipe, but with Idaho 7, Idaho 7 cryo, and 2019 Mosaic, and it just came out as pure dank with no fruit to speak of. I previously got lots of orange from I7 and all sorts of fruit from Mosaic, but not this time, just unlucky I guess.

 

[Dgallo]

Some of you may find this very interesting. It’s regarding the brewing potential of Nectar Inhibiting Yeast (NIY) - a wild yeast strain found on flowers. The strains are very good at biotransformation. I have a feeling there will be a lot more info to come out regarding this.
http://scottjanish.com/m-reukaufii-...rN9ZdMpPbxEImo4OJ-Wtu47cUwkk0IfD2w0su78c1jNv0

 

[beervoid]

Assuming all of the best practices that are constantly discussed in this thread are followed, the number one factor in terms of how good the finished product comes out is the quality of the hops. I’ve been a part of this thread for a while now, as have many of the other posters, and the processes and techniques that have been discussed at great lengths are at minimum on par with many professional breweries. In many instances I’d say they are even better.

I’ve made somewhere between 75-100 batches of super hoppy NE style ipas, and have had some batches that I would honestly say were better than 99% of the best commercial examples available.

The more I’ve thought about it, the more I’ve come to understand that IF all of the best practices regarding our processes and techniques are followed, the only other variable is the quality of the hops. It’s a HUGE factor if you’re chasing that dragon that you can’t quite seem to get.

As @VirginiaHops1 said above, the single most common thing I hear when listening to countless podcasts with highly respected brewers of this style of beer is the quality of the hops. They talk about the selection process, variance from lot to lot, farm to farm, year to year, etc..I’ve even heard some of them talking about the specific temperature at which they store them.

I’ve recently been looking into sourcing hops outside of the typical LHBS, Yakima valley hops, farmhouse, moorbeer, northern brewer, etc....The problem is that it’s nearly impossible to get the same quality of hops that pro brewers get as a home brewer.

I will say that I’ve had some great success using Lupomax and cryo hops, and I’m really trying to get my hands on some incognito but that’s proved to be very difficult in the US. The European sites that carry it in homebrew quantities won’t ship here.

So anyway, I’d agree one thousand percent that the quality of the hops we can get and use, is paramount to how good our final product turns out.

You can be a phenomenal chef but if your ingredients are mediocre, your food will also be mediocre.

I fully agree with this, I'm around 120 Neipa's in and counting. My best ones, I can't explain why. Tested so many factors. The only thing left is hop quality. I was just lucky with a good lot, I'm thinking.
I'm trying to keep track of the hop lot nrs when they are available and tracking if oil profiles tell anything about perceived flavor.
Citra is a good example, it can be grapefruit/citrus more often in my experience then straight bright tropical mango/cantaloupe.

 

[anteater8]

I've been using a floating dip tube on my last few batches. No drastic improvement, but no complaints either. Something just occurred to me though... Usually I let my kegs chill for a few days and then pour off 8 oz or so of very hazy beer, just to get all that sediment out of the keg. That's not an option with a floating dip tube. Anyone have thoughts on this and whether it impacts the quality of the keg over time?

 

[Dgallo]

I've been using a floating dip tube on my last few batches. No drastic improvement, but no complaints either. Something just occurred to me though... Usually I let my kegs chill for a few days and then pour off 8 oz or so of very hazy beer, just to get all that sediment out of the keg. That's not an option with a floating dip tube. Anyone have thoughts on this and whether it impacts the quality of the keg over time?

I think its a personal preference thing. I have a floating dip tube in my fermenter but not my serving kegs. I do a pretty solid soft and final crash. This way I don't transfer much trub to the serving keg. I would say if you are diligent about transferring then your most likely do not need it for a Hazy Ipa. If you make a lot of lagers, it will definitely let you serve clearer beer earlier

 

[TBryerton]

I've been using a floating dip tube on my last few batches. No drastic improvement, but no complaints either. Something just occurred to me though... Usually I let my kegs chill for a few days and then pour off 8 oz or so of very hazy beer, just to get all that sediment out of the keg. That's not an option with a floating dip tube. Anyone have thoughts on this and whether it impacts the quality of the keg over time?

I see so many people, even with conicals, using all kinds of workarounds for transferring. I think it’s crazy - half the purpose of having a conical and temp control is to drop everything out the bottom. For me, taking the time to figure out how to properly crash was a much better solution that inline filters, dip tubes, etc.

 

[stickyfinger]

I love the floating dip tubes for using to transfer from dry hopping kegs, to ferment with, to transfer from a "secondary" for when i add weird adjuncts to stouts, or for when putting a beer on nitro or for other clear beers - it clears much faster and the nitro pours are awesome much faster. i don't use them in my serving keg for IPAs anymore.

 

[anteater8]

I think its a personal preference thing. I have a floating dip tube in my fermenter but not my serving kegs. I do a pretty solid soft and final crash. This way I don't transfer much trub to the serving keg. I would say if you are diligent about transferring then your most likely do not need it for at least an Hazy Ipa. If you make a lot of lagers, it will definitely let you serve clearer beer earlier

I see so many people, even with conicals, using all kinds of workarounds for transferring. I think it’s crazy - half the purpose of having a conical and temp control is to drop everything out the bottom. For me, taking the time to figure out how to properly crash was a much better solution that inline filters, dip tubes, etc.

I love the floating dip tubes for using to transfer from dry hopping kegs, to ferment with, to transfer from a "secondary" for when i add weird adjuncts to stouts, or for when putting a beer on nitro or for other clear beers - it clears much faster and the nitro pours are awesome much faster. i don't use them in my serving keg for IPAs anymore.

All good takes! Since I'm happy with my crashing/transfer process, and never had any oxidation issues, I agree that floating dip tube in the serving keg probably doesn't make a huge different in NEIPAs. I definitely won't mind pouring a clear pilsner a little bit sooner!

 

[aaronm13]

What do people feel the negative's are with using a floating dip tube in their serving kegs? Been using the for a good while now for my ipas and they stay just as hazy till the very last pour.

 

[skleice]

What do people feel the negative's are with using a floating dip tube in their serving kegs? Been using the for a good while now for my ipas and they stay just as hazy till the very last pour.

I think they work just fine in a serving keg and I agree that haze is not an issue. However, I did have one bad experience where the ball/tube would not sit right in the beer and thus would not pour. It just 'poured' CO2 no matter how much I reoriented/shook the keg. Very frustrating.

 

[aaronm13]

I think they work just fine in a serving keg and I agree that haze is not an issue. However, I did have one bad experience where the ball/tube would not sit right in the beer and thus would not pour. It just 'poured' CO2 no matter how much I reoriented/shook the keg. Very frustrating.

I've had that issue with some diy versions I made but the Fermzilla floating dip tubes have been great.

 

[kingmatt]

The more I’ve thought about it, the more I’ve come to understand that IF all of the best practices regarding our processes and techniques are followed, the only other variable is the quality of the hops. It’s a HUGE factor if you’re chasing that dragon that you can’t quite seem to get.

As @VirginiaHops1 said above, the single most common thing I hear when listening to countless podcasts with highly respected brewers of this style of beer is the quality of the hops. They talk about the selection process, variance from lot to lot, farm to farm, year to year, etc..I’ve even heard some of them talking about the specific temperature at which they store them.

I’ve recently been looking into sourcing hops outside of the typical LHBS, Yakima valley hops, farmhouse, moorbeer, northern brewer, etc....The problem is that it’s nearly impossible to get the same quality of hops that pro brewers get as a home brewer.

I will say that I’ve had some great success using Lupomax and cryo hops, and I’m really trying to get my hands on some incognito but that’s proved to be very difficult in the US. The European sites that carry it in homebrew quantities won’t ship here.

So anyway, I’d agree one thousand percent that the quality of the hops we can get and use, is paramount to how good our final product turns out.

You can be a phenomenal chef but if your ingredients are mediocre, your food will also be mediocre.

This has been my biggest gripe as a homebrewer for years now, we tend to get the "leftovers" as far a hops go after the big breweries hand select the best crops for themselves. I understand why it happens but it doesn't make it any less annoying!

Whenever I can, I try to buy the "Select" hops from Bells. You pay a little more, but they claim the hops are the same hand selected ones they use in their commercial beers, and I have to think Bell's is big enough to get some priority in choosing their hops.

It may be a confirmation bias thing, but I have found their Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe hops to be excellent and I would buy them 10 times out of 10 over YVH, Farmhouse etc. The biggest issue with the Bell's Select hops is their limited supply...

 

[TBryerton]

This has been my biggest gripe as a homebrewer for years now, we tend to get the "leftovers" as far a hops go after the big breweries hand select the best crops for themselves. I understand why it happens but it doesn't make it any less annoying!

Whenever I can, I try to buy the "Select" hops from Bells. You pay a little more, but they claim the hops are the same hand selected ones they use in their commercial beers, and I have to think Bell's is big enough to get some priority in choosing their hops.

It may be a confirmation bias thing, but I have found their Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe hops to be excellent and I would buy them 10 times out of 10 over YVH, Farmhouse etc. The biggest issue with the Bell's Select hops is their limited supply...

The beer I just kegged was my first experience with Bells, specifically their Citra. I haven’t tapped the keg yet but samples out of the FV were already much more impressive than Citra hops I’ve used in the past. Mosaic (YVH) in the boil and WP. I wanted to do all Citra DH but Bells limited the # of Citra I could buy, and I wanted to divide evenly over 4 brews, so I ended up doing about 70/30 Citra/Mosaic. Very expensive in comparison (had to buy by the oz) but unfortunately I think it justified the cost.

 

[kingmatt]

The beer I just kegged was my first experience with Bells, specifically their Citra. I haven’t tapped the keg yet but samples out of the FV were already much more impressive than Citra hops I’ve used in the past. Mosaic (YVH) in the boil and WP. I wanted to do all Citra DH but Bells limited the # of Citra I could buy, and I wanted to divide evenly over 4 brews, so I ended up doing about 70/30 Citra/Mosaic. Very expensive in comparison (had to buy by the oz) but unfortunately I think it justified the cost.

In my Citra heavy beers I try to only use Bell's Select because quality for Citra varies so much IMO. I am doing a Double Sunshine Clone this weekend so I bought all I could get of the Citra Select (20oz total) and threw some Mosaic and Simcoe in the cart for good measure.
Like you said, it is more expensive but I'd rather pay a couple bucks extra to have an outstanding finished product.

 

[HopsAreGood]

This has been my biggest gripe as a homebrewer for years now, we tend to get the "leftovers" as far a hops go after the big breweries hand select the best crops for themselves. I understand why it happens but it doesn't make it any less annoying!

Whenever I can, I try to buy the "Select" hops from Bells. You pay a little more, but they claim the hops are the same hand selected ones they use in their commercial beers, and I have to think Bell's is big enough to get some priority in choosing their hops.

It may be a confirmation bias thing, but I have found their Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe hops to be excellent and I would buy them 10 times out of 10 over YVH, Farmhouse etc. The biggest issue with the Bell's Select hops is their limited supply...

This is awesome. I had no idea this option existed. Im definitely going to give this a try. Thanks for sharing!

 

[ChiknNutz]

Question about different hops. The only NEIPA I made was based on the OP's recipe (of this thread that is) and I used 3-Citra, 2-Mosaic and 1-Galaxy. While it came out great, I admit that I am not all that familiar with the nuances of each. How much does each of these differ or is a singular use of Citra close enough. In looking at a hop sub chart, the first sub for Galaxy is Citra. Given Galaxy and Mosaic are nearly 2X the cost of Citra, I am wondering if they add enough difference to justify the cost delta.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I think they work just fine in a serving keg and I agree that haze is not an issue. However, I did have one bad experience where the ball/tube would not sit right in the beer and thus would not pour. It just 'poured' CO2 no matter how much I reoriented/shook the keg. Very frustrating.

I tried going the DIY route that people were doing using the Fermentasaurus floating dip tube and swapping out the tubing to work in my fermenting keg. I had the same issue several times before I gave up where it just wasn't sitting right and wouldn't pull the beer out

 

[TBryerton]

Question about different hops. The only NEIPA I made was based on the OP's recipe (of this thread that is) and I used equal parts of Mosaic, Galaxy and Citra. While it came out great, I admit that I am not all that familiar with the nuances of each. How much does each of these differ or is a singular use of Citra close enough. In looking at a hop sub chart, the first sub for Galaxy is Citra. Given Galaxy and Mosaic are nearly 2X the cost of Citra, I am wondering if they add enough difference to justify the cost delta.

I’ve never found those ‘substitution’ recommendations to be accurate. An all Citra beer to me is very different than the same beer with even a small substitution of Galaxy or Mosaic. I view them more as...Hop A is going to give you a lot of tropical and works well in the DH, and hop B will do the same. Even though A might be more towards mango/citrus and B might be more towards berries/citrus.

 

[Dgallo]

Question about different hops. The only NEIPA I made was based on the OP's recipe (of this thread that is) and I used equal parts of Mosaic, Galaxy and Citra. While it came out great, I admit that I am not all that familiar with the nuances of each. How much does each of these differ or is a singular use of Citra close enough. In looking at a hop sub chart, the first sub for Galaxy is Citra. Given Galaxy and Mosaic are nearly 2X the cost of Citra, I am wondering if they add enough difference to justify the cost delta.

I’ve never found those ‘substitution’ recommendations to be accurate. An all Citra beer to me is very different than the same beer with even a small substitution of Galaxy or Mosaic. I view them more as...Hop A is going to give you a lot of tropical and works well in the DH, and hop B will do the same. Even though A might be more towards mango/citrus and B might be more towards berries/citrus.

agreed. The substitution are more about providing you with a similar profile. It’s like making fruit salad, if you ran out of strawberries, you could replace it with more raspberries or add kiwi and it will work but it won’t replace exact flavor of the strawberries

 

[Noob_Brewer]

OK, yesterday I kegged a single hop pale ale with Riwaka and the force carbed leftovers were fantastic. Best way I can describe it is NZs version of Citra with the typical accent of some diesel but its not overpowering. Think of Citra with a NZ kick. Anyhow, my next brew is going to be Riwaka, Nelson, Galaxy (Columbus bittering and depth).

Estimated ABV 7.4-7.6% depending on attenuation. OG 1.070

Here is my hop schedule:

Boil (10.3% of total hops): 60min - Columbus 0.50oz, 10min - Columbus and Riwaka 0.50oz for each (1.5oz total)
WP @ 155 (34.5% of total hops): Riwaka - 3.0oz, Galaxy - 1.5oz, Nelson - 0.50oz (5oz total)
DryHop (55.2% of total hops): Nelson - 4.5oz, Galaxy - 2oz, Riwaka - 1.5oz (8oz total)

Based on beersmith stats this will give me 37.8 IBUs which is where Ive liked the bitterness for this OG. I know some peeps like to lower the WP and put more in DH but my personal preference right now is to keep similar %s across boil, WP, DH as I find it gives me the most balance in terms of bitterness, flavor, aroma.

Question: Since I'm hoping for a tropical/citrus/passionfruit paradise with a nice hit of white wine (Nelson), Thoughts/suggestions on the hop schedule would be appreciated. Not sure the half ounce of nelson in WP is doing anything other than appeasing my brain that thinks the DH would be amplified with a little of same variety in WP (not sure if theres any evidence behind this but thats my thinking).

Cheers

 

[troglodytes]

I'm going to brew with Citra Strata and Idaho 7 for the first time tonight, but as luck would have it, I lost my notes I took from this and other threads.

I know Scott Janish wrote about the upside of using Idaho 7 in the hot side, but I for the life of me can't remember the hop timing I was planning. If anyone has done a similar brew I have 8 oz Citra, 4 oz Idaho 7, 4 oz Strata set aside for this batch.

I was thinking Citra @ 10 min

1:2:2 oz (Citra/Strata/ID7) WP

5:2:1 oz (Citra/Strata/ID7) dry hop

 

[JoeMamasIPA]

I'm going to brew with Citra Strata and Idaho 7 for the first time tonight, but as luck would have it, I lost my notes I took from this and other threads.

I know Scott Janish wrote about the upside of using Idaho 7 in the hot side, but I for the life of me can't remember the hop timing I was planning. If anyone has done a similar brew I have 8 oz Citra, 4 oz Idaho 7, 4 oz Strata set aside for this batch.

I was thinking Citra @ 10 min

1:2:2 oz (Citra/Strata/ID7) WP

5:2:1 oz (Citra/Strata/ID7) dry hop

You are missing an oz of I7 which I would drop in at 10 minutes with the Citra. I also like a 60 minute addition of Columbus or something similar to give a bitterness backbone.

 

[Dgallo]

I'm going to brew with Citra Strata and Idaho 7 for the first time tonight, but as luck would have it, I lost my notes I took from this and other threads.

I know Scott Janish wrote about the upside of using Idaho 7 in the hot side, but I for the life of me can't remember the hop timing I was planning. If anyone has done a similar brew I have 8 oz Citra, 4 oz Idaho 7, 4 oz Strata set aside for this batch.

I was thinking Citra @ 10 min

1:2:2 oz (Citra/Strata/ID7) WP

5:2:1 oz (Citra/Strata/ID7) dry hop

I’m a big fan of that combo. I personally wouldn’t bother with one 1 oz of Idaho 7 in the DH, probably would use at least 2 if I’m looking for the profile to come out in the aroma. Otherwise I would move that oz on the hotside and do a Citra/strata dh.

 

[BongoYodeler]

I'm going to brew with Citra Strata and Idaho 7 for the first time tonight, but as luck would have it, I lost my notes I took from this and other threads.

I know Scott Janish wrote about the upside of using Idaho 7 in the hot side, but I for the life of me can't remember the hop timing I was planning. If anyone has done a similar brew I have 8 oz Citra, 4 oz Idaho 7, 4 oz Strata set aside for this batch.

I was thinking Citra @ 10 min

1:2:2 oz (Citra/Strata/ID7) WP

5:2:1 oz (Citra/Strata/ID7) dry hop

A year or two ago I brewed a 5.5% non-hazy, pale/ipa using Magnum (60 minute bittering), Citra and Idaho7 hops at flame-out, 170° and dry hop. Very flavorful and so easy to drink. Hmm, I may just try to replicate it later this year.