New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[ryanm8]

I love 100% strata. Just made my 2nd brew with Strata in DH. Personal taste I guess. Give it a try.

I was in Colorado recently and had a wet hop Strata beer at Outer Range. It was the best commercial IPA I've had in ages. Massive saturated hop flavor that blew my mind.

 

[beervoid]

Question for the guys that softcrash before dry hopping. When going from 22c to 18c at end of fermentation when yeast is still a little active. do you put any pressure on the fermenter?

 

[R.A.I.D]

Question for the guys that softcrash before dry hopping. When going from 22c to 18c at end of fermentation when yeast is still a little active. do you put any pressure on the fermenter?

I do. To avoid suck back. But you need to go lower than 18C. 14 C or lower is recommended.

 

[beervoid]

I do. To avoid suck back. But you need to go lower than 18C. 14 C or lower is recommended.

Thanks. I have tried lower before but i'm playing with different temps atm. So wondering if with a smaller crash it's still necessary.

 

[R.A.I.D]

Thanks. I have tried lower before but i'm playing with different temps atm. So wondering if with a smaller crash it's still necessary.

The point of the soft crash is to get the yeast out of suspension. I dont think the yeast will drop out unless you go below 14C.

But any drop in temperature will result in some suck back.

I is all up to your ambition if you soft crash and try to avoid oxygen. But both are recommended.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Question for the guys that softcrash before dry hopping. When going from 22c to 18c at end of fermentation when yeast is still a little active. do you put any pressure on the fermenter?

I personally wait until I think fermentation is totally done + a couple of days before soft crashing. When I soft crash, I used to go to 57F but now just as a standard I go to 50F and I do put some CO2 into the fermenter to avoid sucking in Oxygen as @R.A.I.D had said. 2-3PSI should be all you need and thats what I do. The nice thing for me with a fermonster is you can visually see the beer clear when soft crashing. Its actually quite stunning to see how much clearer it gets as you drop a ton of yeast out to the bottom.

 

[beervoid]

The point of the soft crash is to get the yeast out of suspension. I dont think the yeast will drop out unless you go below 14C.

But any drop in temperature will result in some suck back.

I is all up to your ambition if you soft crash and try to avoid oxygen. But both are recommended.

True but my goal is to work with the hop creep at lower temps.

 

[BongoYodeler]

After a week or so in the keg this one is really rounding out nicely. Almost there.

 

[joncrook]

Since we are talking about Kane. Here is my attempt to make something similar to Party Wave. It comes out pretty good, but I think @HopsAreGood may be onto something. I use either Conan or 1318 I may try Chico next

New England IPA
7.2% / 17.5 °P
Recipe by
Anvil Foundry 6.5 Gallon
69% efficiency
Batch Volume: 3 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Mash Water: 4.52 gal
Total Water: 4.52 gal
Boil Volume: 3.99 gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.061
Vitals
Original Gravity: 1.072
Final Gravity: 1.017
IBU (Tinseth): 42
Color: 5.3 SRM
Mash
Strike Temp — 156.6 °F
Temperature — 149 °F — 90 min
Malts (8 lb 7.8 oz)
3 lb 3.6 oz (36.9%) — Simpsons Pale Ale Golden Promise — Grain — 2.4 °L
3 lb 3.6 oz (36.9%) — Viking Malt Pilsner — Grain — 2.1 °L
13.6 oz (9.7%) — Oats, Flaked — Grain — 1.3 °L
13.6 oz (9.7%) — Rahr Wheat Malt White — Grain — 2.9 °L
2.7 oz (1.9%) — Weyermann Acidulated — Grain — 1.9 °L
2.7 oz (1.9%) — Briess Caramel Malt — Grain — 10 °L
Other (4 oz)
4 oz (2.9%) — Briess Rice Hulls — Adjunct — 0 °L
Hops (8.14 oz)
0.15 oz (12 IBU) — Warrior 15.3% — Boil — 60 min
2 oz (15 IBU) — Simcoe 13.2% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand @ 170 °F
1 oz (7 IBU) — Citra 12.6% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand @ 170 °F
1 oz (8 IBU) — Mosaic 13.8% — Aroma — 20 min hopstand @ 170 °F
1.5 oz — Citra 12.6% — Dry Hop — 3 days
1.5 oz — Mosaic 11.4% — Dry Hop — 3 days
1 oz — Galaxy 13.3% — Dry Hop — 3 days

Hopstand at 170 °F
Miscs
4.8 g — Calcium Chloride (CaCl2) — Mash
1.6 g — Epsom Salt (MgSO4) — Mash
1.7 g — Gypsum (CaSO4) — Mash
1 items — Whirlfloc — Boil — 10 min
1 g — Yeast Nutrients — Boil — 10 min
Yeast
1 pkg — Omega OYL-052 DIPA Ale 76%
1.6 L starter
5.54 oz DME / 6.77 oz LME
100 billion cells overbuild: 0.52 L (33%)
Pitch Amount: 1.08 L
307 billion yeast cells
1.03 million cells / ml / °P
Fermentation
Primary — 68 °F — 12 days
Carbonation: 2.4 CO2-vol
Water Profile
Ca2 101Mg2 9Na 8 Cl 139 SO42 93 HCO3 16

I have the 6.5 Foundry too. Do you use a bag in the malt pipe or just put your grains right in the pipe? I feel like grains fall through the pipe.

 

[dawn_kiebawls]

Since my birthday is this coming Saturday I decided to do a little shopping. I ordered the hops to make OPs 2nd revision of the original recipe, I bought the grains/yeast at my LHBS this afternoon and I'm tracking the delivery of my fermonster closed transfer system. Fermonster and hops due to be delivered on or before my birthday so I will finally take a shot at a NEIPA by Monday. Stay tuned!

 

[crusader1612]

Since my birthday is this coming Saturday I decided to do a little shopping. I ordered the hops to make OPs 2nd revision of the original recipe, I bought the grains/yeast at my LHBS this afternoon and I'm tracking the delivery of my fermonster closed transfer system. Fermonster and hops due to be delivered on or before my birthday so I will finally take a shot at a NEIPA by Monday. Stay tuned!

Fancy posting up your recipe or the updated version of so i dont have to trapse through a billion pages.

 

[dawn_kiebawls]

Fancy posting up your recipe or the updated version of so i dont have to trapse through a billion pages.

It's on page 146. I didn't read that far into this thread, OP has a link to the 2nd edition posted on page 1 I'd like to read through this whole thread though. From the little big I have skimmed through, there seems to be some really good info in here

 

[Dgallo]

It's on page 146. I didn't read that far into this thread, OP has a link to the 2nd edition posted on page 1 I'd like to read through this whole thread though. From the little big I have skimmed through, there seems to be some really good info in here

This thread is the most evidence based (both anecdotal and scientific) and comprehensive resource on this style that is available today. Even pro brewers check in on it time to time. There is a new brewery by me who is currently ranked by untapped as the 16th top rated brewery in the country (they’ve only been open for a year) and the head brewer told me that he is a frequent visitor of this thread

 

[dawn_kiebawls]

That should give me enough motivation to start chipping away at these 330 pages..that will be the most reading I have ever done. Also, @Dgallo thanks for posting sharing how to turn a Fermonster into a closed transfer setup. Mine should be arriving on my doorstep tomorrow!

 

[lilbova3]

I think I’m officially starting to dislike Galaxy. Anyone else? It comes across as peppery and almost smokey (cigar, cigarette) tasting. I feel like I never remember Galaxy being this way or maybe it’s just me and my palate.

 

[Dgallo]

I think I’m officially starting to dislike Galaxy. Anyone else? It comes across as peppery and almost smokey (cigar, cigarette) tasting. I feel like I never remember Galaxy being this way or maybe it’s just me and my palate.

That peppery note is hope burn, let the keg sit 3 weeks and don’t take a pour. You’ll like it better then.

now the smoke note, that is usually associated with phenols from a wild yeast or Brett.

 

[Willum]

I have the 6.5 Foundry too. Do you use a bag in the malt pipe or just put your grains right in the pipe? I feel like grains fall through the pipe.

I use a bag. I also have false bottom that I had custom made from Norcal.

The malt pipe didn't allow for enough grain for some of my bigger beers. I also like to send 3 gallons into the fermentor, so I can fill my 2.6 gallon kegs.

 

[lilbova3]

That peppery note is hope burn, let the keg sit 3 weeks and don’t take a pour. You’ll like it better then.

now the smoke note, that is usually associated with phenols from a wild yeast or Brett.

The beer I’m drinking is from a well known brewery. Maybe just peppery, the smoke is tobacco-y but know it’s not Brett. Could be their house yeast interacting maybe?

 

[BeerFst]

I have fortunately not had to deal with much diacetyl in my beers. I also typically have hop creep under control, but changed my process slightly this go around and I am fairly certain i had some creep (have not a post dry hop FG yet). In any case, the beer currently has an overwhelming aroma and flavor of Chobani. I have definitely experienced the fake butter taste/aroma in commercial beers before (I'll always remember my first brooklyn lager in college), but never Chobani. Is this a descriptor anyone else would use for Diacetyl? a different off flavor?

Post ferm sample was fine, but now it is post dry hop, so I'm pretty sure it is creep.

Could it be an infection? maybe, but I don't think so. I do use lactic acid for mash adjustment, but not like I went overboard here, similar amounts to past beers.

I know I didnt add a ton of details on the beer, and can add as needed. I did deviate from my normal dry hop procedure slightly, so I am not surprised i got some creep and diacetyl. I've got the beer back at room temp to attempt to clean it up. been there two days already, haven't pulled a sample yet.

 

[kaffeenjunkie]

i just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to post your recipe and notes. After discovering this thread, my third attempt at this style really came out nice. The first two attempts were good but after reading through your notes, the batch I have on tap right now is outstanding. I really like the addition of honey malt but I think the whirlpool at a constant 160 was what I was missing. Also thanks for the pointers using using a blonde to generate yeast. Brew date on this batch was 9/14/20 and it is a beautiful golden color without pressure fermenting or closed transfer.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Snapped just before I finished (my second one).

 

[BeerFst]

I have fortunately not had to deal with much diacetyl in my beers. I also typically have hop creep under control, but changed my process slightly this go around and I am fairly certain i had some creep (have not a post dry hop FG yet). In any case, the beer currently has an overwhelming aroma and flavor of Chobani. I have definitely experienced the fake butter taste/aroma in commercial beers before (I'll always remember my first brooklyn lager in college), but never Chobani. Is this a descriptor anyone else would use for Diacetyl? a different off flavor?

Post ferm sample was fine, but now it is post dry hop, so I'm pretty sure it is creep.

Could it be an infection? maybe, but I don't think so. I do use lactic acid for mash adjustment, but not like I went overboard here, similar amounts to past beers.

I know I didnt add a ton of details on the beer, and can add as needed. I did deviate from my normal dry hop procedure slightly, so I am not surprised i got some creep and diacetyl. I've got the beer back at room temp to attempt to clean it up. been there two days already, haven't pulled a sample yet.

Don’t open a carbed keg. I know that’s obvious, I know to me that should have been obvious. How many closed transfers of carbed beer, how I always use my spunding valve when doing it.

In my infinite wisdom I trusted the internet and decided to pour some dme in. What. An. Idiot. I realized as the beer volcano immediately started. Followed by me panicking to get the lid back on creating tiny gaps in the oring to rocket beer across the moon like surface that is my basement floor. It was a throw whatver laundry is nearby on the ever expanding puddle, kind of experience. In the end I did get that dme in the keg. I lost about a gallon maybe not quite. I lost plenty of dry hops for sure. But the spund is back in, and we’ll see if this cleans up what I’m still assuming is diacetyl.

Here I go once more to attempt to prevent the dreaded “why does the basement smell like beer?” She’s pregnant, there’s no way I’m avoiding this one

 

[Dgallo]

Here I go once more to attempt to prevent the dreaded “why does the basement smell like beer?” She’s pregnant, there’s no way I’m avoiding this one

As a man who’s wife is also pregnant...

 

[secretlevel]

Don’t open a carbed keg. I know that’s obvious, I know to me that should have been obvious. How many closed transfers of carbed beer, how I always use my spunding valve when doing it.

In my infinite wisdom I trusted the internet and decided to pour some dme in. What. An. Idiot. I realized as the beer volcano immediately started. Followed by me panicking to get the lid back on creating tiny gaps in the oring to rocket beer across the moon like surface that is my basement floor. It was a throw whatver laundry is nearby on the ever expanding puddle, kind of experience. In the end I did get that dme in the keg. I lost about a gallon maybe not quite. I lost plenty of dry hops for sure. But the spund is back in, and we’ll see if this cleans up what I’m still assuming is diacetyl.

Here I go once more to attempt to prevent the dreaded “why does the basement smell like beer?” She’s pregnant, there’s no way I’m avoiding this one

Why are you adding DME to keg out of all things? What's your fermentation schedule?

PS. If we never hear from you again, we'll know exactly what not to do and it's been good knowing you.

 

[Dgallo]

Why are you adding DME to keg out of all things? What's your fermentation schedule?

I’m assuming he was trying trying to clean up diacetyl

 

[BeerFst]

Yup @Dgallo got it. I added dme to restart ferm in an attempt to have the more active yeast hunt out that potential diacetyl. So this beer is an odd one. It is based on a mad fermentationist beer that is very low abv.

3lbs rye
1lb oat malt
1.5lbs briess blonde roast
6oz c20

Mash temp 165, 45 minutes

4oz NZH107 at 185 for 30

Og 1.026 (were going really low here on purpose)

Fg 1.014 (pre dry hop)

A whopping 1.5%

S-04 pitched at 70 ish, set to 64 (used this once ages ago, it was fine, tonsmiere used this on the recipe so I went with it)

With only 12 points ferm was over in like 3-4 days, which was fine (didn’t really think I needed to Baby it with a full packet pitch. Surprisingly that’s only a 20b over pitch according to brewers friend)

Left an extra day at 64

Didn’t d rest (f up again)

Dropped temp to 58 like normal

Dry hop 4oz @ 64 for 2 days

Normally I’d drop it in the keezer, but didn’t for whatever reason and left it out of the ferm chamber at 68-72 basement temp. This is where must have picked up the chobani. I had to take it out of ferm chamber to load in a marzen I had brewed that day.

Tossed it in keezer next day. Now here was my first clue, I applied 20+ psi to burst carb and nothing went in at first....clear sign of ferm. Nevertheless I persisted.

Next day first sample. Chobani town.

So I left it overnight and decided next day to warm it up. F up 3 was unplugging my ferm chamber to access my keezer and let my fermenting marzen got from 51 to 67 (omega 107 supposedly okay, but we’ll see). I dropped that marzen to 53 again but concerned I stressed it another time, but I’ll save that for another thread.

This all brings us to tonight and impending doom of tomorrow. @Dgallo, know where I can find a completely signed yankees ball (oh wait we’re Mets fans, she won’t like that at all)

 

[R.A.I.D]

There are two types of homebrewers. Those who have spray painted the ceiling and those who have not done it yet.

 

[beervoid]

There are two types of homebrewers. Those who have spray painted the sealing and those who have not done it yet.

I spray painted my walls not the ceiling yet.

 

[R.A.I.D]

I spray painted my walls not the ceiling yet.

Then you are in group two.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Here I go once more to attempt to prevent the dreaded “why does the basement smell like beer?” She’s pregnant, there’s no way I’m avoiding this one

Just hope she's had Covid and lost her sense of smell....

(as that's what I seem to have done, it's really annoying - I can't even tell if I'm burning food, although it should save me a few quid when buying wine if it all tastes/smells the same....)

 

[BarryBrews]

Yup @Dgallo got it. I added dme to restart ferm in an attempt to have the more active yeast hunt out that potential diacetyl.

Kveik is suppose to be diacetyl free and pairs great with NEIPAs. Personally have lost all interest in brews that aren't Kviek NEIPAs, do you think it's the hops?

 

[BeerFst]

My 3 year old ratted me out this morning....fortunately my wife seemed too tired from work to do more than laugh it off. She hasnt been downstairs yet, so I'm holding judgement.

The washing machine does vaguely smell like hops.

@BarryBrews I'm not a fan of Kveik. I have only used Voss, but my 1 of 3 beers that was actually drinkable just didn't blow me away at all. It had too much farmhouse going on, not enough bright hoppy goodness. While i am clearly not going to use S04 again, I tend to favor pretty much any other yeast (A24, Juice/1318, San Diego Super (for WC), A15 Independence etc) over Kveik. I have ferm control to do whatever I want, and the speed just doesn't sell me on it. I have considered trying Hornindal or even Lutra, but I have plenty of yeast banked for my planned brews, so no need to buy them.

The hops are certainly possible, so is the high amount of briess blonde roast oats. The beer pre dry hop though, was fine. I really think it was the fast schedule and the room temp dry hop. But i have had some bad experience with dry hops before that seemed fine on the hot side.

Amusingly these dry hop problem beers were also the 2 other Voss beers i did using Azacca and Mandarina from the $4.70/lb 47 hop sale a few years ago. The hops were probably 2016, but kept frozen and vac packed. I made these beers about a year apart, so the second time I used the same hops but on year old, both had the same issues. On the first beer i blamed it on the Voss and it being my first time using it (nutrients, temp, maybe it was an infection, etc). But after the second time...I realized it was the hops. They had clearly gone rancid or something. They smelled fine in the bag, maybe slightly muted from age, but nothing off about them. Post dry hop it was a disaster of bleach-like cleaner aroma and flavor. I dumped both of them.

The NZH-107 hops I used were noted for showcasing "intense tropical fruit and citrus character." They are a blend of New Zealand varieties, and the described aroma is definitely there. The aroma during fermentation was GLORIOUS. The hops themselves were purchased from a nearby (so not really local) LHBS in Jersey. These are only available in 44lb boxes, so they did repackage them in normal foodsaver vacuum bags, not mylar. I know that these can be somewhat o2 permeable so it is possible they got a bit oxidized. I really don't think they are the cause, but then again it took me two brews with the 47 hops to figure out the root cause there too. I used all 8oz of these 107 I had purchased and while i did like them, the only place to get them now in <44lb boxes is northern brewer and like $23/8oz which I won't be doing. I got them for like $12 from LHBS.

More info on the blend here, NZH-107

 

[BarryBrews]

While i am clearly not going to use S04 again, I tend to favor pretty much any other yeast (A24, Juice/1318, San Diego Super (for WC), A15 Independence etc) over Kveik.

First off, shout out to Long Island, I grew up in Smithtown.

I've tried most of the kveiks and love the Kveiking, Hornindal and the new POG kveiks. I ferment at the top end of the temperature range for these yeasts with great results. I make my NEIPAs a little differently, that is without the dry hopping steps. Hang on a second....I whirlpool 8 oz of hops at 160F for 20 minutes(10 gal batch) then cool the wort down to <80F and let it settle out overnight. This leaves all the cold and hot break as well as the hops in the kettle and not the fermenter. Though I can't image my NEIPAs have the same hop flavor as dry hopped beer, they do compare very well with the limited amount of commercial beers I've tried. I don't dry hop or bottle beer specifically to avoid oxygen. My beers have improved dramatically since I started oxygen free brewing and using another technique I call "clear wort brewing", which unfortunately negates brew house efficiency. And for what it's worth, I haven't dumped a beer since an over spiced Blue Moon clone about 4 years ago. Try it.

 

[anteater8]

Anyone doing their dry hop in two separate additions and soft crashing in between? I decided to split my dry hop but I'm not sure if its worth trying to get the first dry hop out of suspension first or not.

 

[couchsending]

Anyone doing their dry hop in two separate additions and soft crashing in between? I decided to split my dry hop but I'm not sure if its worth trying to get the first dry hop out of suspension first or not.

This used to be Matt Brynildson’s recommended method for dry hopping. 1st DH addition very close to terminal. Leave until gravity is stable and negative for Diacetyl. Soft crashing to 60 remove as much hops and yeast as possible then add DH number 2.

Their yeast floccs really hard so they can harvest before first DH and probably don’t even need to soft crash but I think he said second DH was at a lower temp.

90% chance you’ll get hop creep with that first DH addition so make sure gravity is stable and there’s no diacetyl before soft crashing. If you’re not dry hopping in a conical that can handle at least some head pressure this could be a bit of a nightmare if you’re gonna keep O2 exposure to the bare minimum.

 

[secretlevel]

Yup @Dgallo got it. I added dme to restart ferm in an attempt to have the more active yeast hunt out that potential diacetyl. So this beer is an odd one. It is based on a mad fermentationist beer that is very low abv.

3lbs rye
1lb oat malt
1.5lbs briess blonde roast
6oz c20

Mash temp 165, 45 minutes

4oz NZH107 at 185 for 30

Og 1.026 (were going really low here on purpose)

Fg 1.014 (pre dry hop)

A whopping 1.5%

S-04 pitched at 70 ish, set to 64 (used this once ages ago, it was fine, tonsmiere used this on the recipe so I went with it)

With only 12 points ferm was over in like 3-4 days, which was fine (didn’t really think I needed to Baby it with a full packet pitch. Surprisingly that’s only a 20b over pitch according to brewers friend)

Left an extra day at 64

Didn’t d rest (f up again)

Dropped temp to 58 like normal

Dry hop 4oz @ 64 for 2 days

Normally I’d drop it in the keezer, but didn’t for whatever reason and left it out of the ferm chamber at 68-72 basement temp. This is where must have picked up the chobani. I had to take it out of ferm chamber to load in a marzen I had brewed that day.

Tossed it in keezer next day. Now here was my first clue, I applied 20+ psi to burst carb and nothing went in at first....clear sign of ferm. Nevertheless I persisted.

Next day first sample. Chobani town.

So I left it overnight and decided next day to warm it up. F up 3 was unplugging my ferm chamber to access my keezer and let my fermenting marzen got from 51 to 67 (omega 107 supposedly okay, but we’ll see). I dropped that marzen to 53 again but concerned I stressed it another time, but I’ll save that for another thread.

This all brings us to tonight and impending doom of tomorrow. @Dgallo, know where I can find a completely signed yankees ball (oh wait we’re Mets fans, she won’t like that at all)

Man, I don't think it was the hops, I wouldn't blame S-04 either. It takes a day for S-04 to get going when you pitch out of the dry pack. Granted you didn't give it that much time in fermenter in general, plus no D-rest, I'm willing to put money on diacetyl being present in that beer.

If you want to try something, this method can work wonders for a diacetyl situation.

 

[olotti]

I have a question For the group. ive started hopstandding at 175 instead of doing two diff ones, starting at 195 then cool to 175 then add the second hs, I was just getting to much residual hop burn. So do u guys have a time you hopstand for or do u stop when u reach a certain temp like 130, 125, regardless of time it takes to get there.

second I recently started soft crashing but using kviek which mostly drops when it’s done I just add the first dh for two days usually on day 3 when the yeast is almost done then soft crash till it hits mid 50’s then pull the fermenter out of the cooling element in this case my keezer then I add the second rd of dry hops for two more days and cold crash for 24-36 hrs before I pressure transfer to my keg. Using kviek I’m not worried about diacetyl cuz it’s so fast at warm temps I figure it cleans everything up and drops. Last neipa I did this technique came out great and there was no hop creep burn which I think I was getting from my previous attempts cuz I was dry hopping in the low 70’s when I’d bring the temp up for diacetyl rest with 1318 Plus I’d do an active ferm dh on day 3. Sound practice or is here anything else I could do.

 

[anteater8]

This used to be Matt Brynildson’s recommended method for dry hopping. 1st DH addition very close to terminal. Leave until gravity is stable and negative for Diacetyl. Soft crashing to 60 remove as much hops and yeast as possible then add DH number 2.

Their yeast floccs really hard so they can harvest before first DH and probably don’t even need to soft crash but I think he said second DH was at a lower temp.

90% chance you’ll get hop creep with that first DH addition so make sure gravity is stable and there’s no diacetyl before soft crashing. If you’re not dry hopping in a conical that can handle at least some head pressure this could be a bit of a nightmare if you’re gonna keep O2 exposure to the bare minimum.

This is good stuff. I stuff crashed before the first addition though, so I'm really just wondering if it's worth doing a second time.

 

[couchsending]

I have a question For the group. ive started hopstandding at 175 instead of doing two diff ones, starting at 195 then cool to 175 then add the second hs, I was just getting to much residual hop burn. So do u guys have a time you hopstand for or do u stop when u reach a certain temp like 130, 125, regardless of time it takes to get there.

second I recently started soft crashing but using kviek which mostly drops when it’s done I just add the first dh for two days usually on day 3 when the yeast is almost done then soft crash till it hits mid 50’s then pull the fermenter out of the cooling element in this case my keezer then I add the second rd of dry hops for two more days and cold crash for 24-36 hrs before I pressure transfer to my keg. Using kviek I’m not worried about diacetyl cuz it’s so fast at warm temps I figure it cleans everything up and drops. Last neipa I did this technique came out great and there was no hop creep burn which I think I was getting from my previous attempts cuz I was dry hopping in the low 70’s when I’d bring the temp up for diacetyl rest with 1318 Plus I’d do an active ferm dh on day 3. Sound practice or is here anything else I could do.

“hop burn” isn’t caused by anything you do on the hotside... For the most part... just pick one WP temp and add your hops then.

Hop burn is massive amounts of polyphenols in suspension.

Don’t dry hop during fermentation or even at ferm temps and you won’t really end up with hop burn. Incredibly high dry hopping loads with certain high polyphenol hops could result in some burn even at lower DH temps but it will go away much faster than if you had added those hops during fermentation or at fermentation temps with lots of yeast present.

 

[midegrou]

For the folks who use fermentation to help purge their dry hop keg: are there any concerns about non-CO2 volatiles being pushed into the dry hop keg along with the CO2?