New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

This is my MO(although fermenting in kegs). I guess it helps with hop creep but my main motivation is limiting DO by not having to break the seal on the fermenter to dry hop.

I’ve seen you and a couple other post about using kegs and I just thought, well I got two fermonsters why not give it a shot and I can get a full serving keg in the end.

For my typical process, I’m personally not overly concerned with opening the lid for dryhoping since I’m running co2 through the liquid post at that point. I’m sure some gets in but with the quick dryhop time, then going right to cold storage.. I haven’t experienced any notable oxidation

 

[anteater8]

Made this exact same recipe but swapped all non-bittering hops out for the 2020 YVH galaxy crop. Also, dropped the whirlpool and dry hop amounts to 2/3 of the previous recipe, based on what was recommended by some of the gurus in this thread.

It's delicious and the aroma is on par with my favorite Galaxy focused beers (Other Half Space Diamonds and Hill Farmstead Double Galaxy).

Something interesting to me is that it's waaaay murkier than my last batch (I'm about 4 full 12oz pours in now). Anybody else have this experience with Galaxy producing a murkier end product?

Thanks again for all of the tips, y'all!View attachment 695113

Yep, many have had the same experience. I actually going to start brewing my NEIPA's a little different when using Galaxy (or Idaho 7 or Vic Secret) from now on. I'll lower my protein with less flaked oats and wheat, use whirfloc in the boil and gelatin in the keg. I'm mainly curious to see if it produces a beer that's ready to drink sooner, but the difference in appearance would be interesting as well.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I’ve seen you and a couple other post about using kegs and I just thought, well I got two fermonsters why not give it a shot and I can get a full serving keg in the end.

For my typical process, I’m personally not overly concerned with opening the lid for dryhoping since I’m running co2 through the liquid post at that point. I’m sure some gets in but with the quick dryhop time, then going right to cold storage.. I haven’t experienced any notable oxidation

I hear you. I used to always blow CO2 while opening the lid too. I actually have a hazy IPA batch now that I'll be doing that with since I didn't have a 2nd keg ready to use during fermentation. O2 definitely gets in though. I think the only way to know if there's notable oxidation would be doing identical recipes with the different processes. Since early stages of oxidation doesn't result in creation of off-flavors, but rather diminishing hop flavors(how would you know if they're diminished or not?). Still you're probably right that for us homebrewers who drink our beer quickly and don't have to worry about distro there probably isn't huge issues doing it that way.

 

[ChiknNutz]

I just brewed a ~5g batch yesterday and plan to dry-hop with 6 oz. of pellet hops total (3 Citra+2 Mosaic+1 Galaxy). I also did a whirlpool/hopstand with the same amounts. I get that the majority suggests to do these loose, not in a bag, right? This is my first go of dry-hopping and I know the concern with O2 exposure and such. To be clear, you simply drop in the hops and away you go? Is there no real concern for sanitizing them (don't know how you would anyway)?

 

[couchsending]

Hops are antimicrobial. There’s nothing living on them. Just spray the outside of the fermenter with star san or alcohol.

 

[troglodytes]

Before I head into my next attempt I wanted to check in here on whirlpool practices. I've taste issues when really getting a whirlpool going with my NEIPAs. I'm generally at around 5.2 pH post boil and do about 5 oz in WP. I don't have any tools to facilitate a WP and usually just get it going with a stainless spoon at 180F. Should I not actually be stirring/aerating at the temp with those hops and just let the sit and get their contact time at that temp? I know the homebrew community has been back and forth on the legitimacy of HSA aeration at a homebrew level.

 

[Dgallo]

Before I head into my next attempt I wanted to check in here on whirlpool practices. I've taste issues when really getting a whirlpool going with my NEIPAs. I'm generally at around 5.2 pH post boil and do about 5 oz in WP. I don't have any tools to facilitate a WP and usually just get it going with a stainless spoon at 180F. Should I not actually be stirring/aerating at the temp with those hops and just let the sit and get their contact time at that temp? I know the homebrew community has been back and forth on the legitimacy of HSA aeration at a homebrew level.

what “taste” issues are you experiencing? With actually moving the wort you can get better extraction In a shorter amount of time But I’d honestly believe you will get equivalent extract either way if your at 180*f for say 30 mins plus. I guess there is always the possibility to extract more polyphenols if constantly moving the wort

in a 30 minute hopstand I probably stir 3 or 4 times and that’s it. I only really do it to speed up cooling and to get the break material and hops to gravitate to the center.

 

[troglodytes]

Two beers in particular I really whipped up a whirlpool. Both had this taste I get with IPAs both homebrew and commercial. I guess I would call it a combo of cat piss and grass clippings after the main flavor of the hops fade as you swallow. I sometimes get a light instance of this flavor, but never as bad as the times I did the large WPs while stirring.

The beers both also faded, turned brown, and had more pronounced vegetal taste after about 3 weeks...although I chalked that up to possible aeration in the transfer process.

 

[Dgallo]

Two beers in particular I really whipped up a whirlpool. Both had this taste I get with IPAs both homebrew and commercial. I guess I would call it a combo of cat piss and grass clippings after the main flavor of the hops fade as you swallow. I sometimes get a light instance of this flavor, but never as bad as the times I did the large WPs while stirring.

The beers both also faded, turned brown, and had more pronounced vegetal taste after about 3 weeks...although I chalked that up to possible aeration in the transfer process.

Cat piss can come from hops high in 4mmp. Citra has it sometimes. So that would be nothing you did wrong. Vegetable notes is typically due to the beer being young and just needing conditioning time or just not good hop quality.

now beers turning brown and losing their flavor, thats 100% oxidation and comes mainly from post fermentation oxygen exposure.

 

[wepeeler]

Two beers in particular I really whipped up a whirlpool. Both had this taste I get with IPAs both homebrew and commercial. I guess I would call it a combo of cat piss and grass clippings after the main flavor of the hops fade as you swallow. I sometimes get a light instance of this flavor, but never as bad as the times I did the large WPs while stirring.

The beers both also faded, turned brown, and had more pronounced vegetal taste after about 3 weeks...although I chalked that up to possible aeration in the transfer process.

I'm no expert, but whirlpooling at 180 may be your culprit for the cat pee or extra bitterness. Only going on personal experience here, but the few times I whirlpooled at 180, I found the beer to be more harsh, although never grassy... I've since gone to 160 and then dropped in my hops. By the time 30 minutes is up, I'm usually around 140. Variables also include hop variety, as I got more bitterness/harshness out of Galaxy/Strata vs Citra/Mosaic this way too. But, those are harsher hops to begin with. I would suggest whirlpooling a bit lower. It has certainly helped my beer.

 

[ChiknNutz]

I'm no expert, but whirlpooling at 180 may be your culprit for the cat pee or extra bitterness. Only going on personal experience here, but the few times I whirlpooled at 180, I found the beer to be more harsh, although never grassy... I've since gone to 160 and then dropped in my hops. By the time 30 minutes is up, I'm usually around 140. Variables also include hop variety, as I got more bitterness/harshness out of Galaxy/Strata vs Citra/Mosaic this way too. But, those are harsher hops to begin with. I would suggest whirlpooling a bit lower. It has certainly helped my beer.

This is consistent with the little I have learned about whirlpooling hops for the NEIPA style. The last batch I made just yesterday was precisely as you described...started at just under 160 then for about 30 minutes and it was like 130 or 140 by then.

 

[wepeeler]

This is consistent with the little I have learned about whirlpooling hops for the NEIPA style. The last batch I made just yesterday was precisely as you described...started at just under 160 then for about 30 minutes and it was like 130 or 140 by then.

I've done the gauntlet for WP temps. I've done exactly at flameout, all the way down to about 150, and I think 160 is the hot spot, no pun intended. Adds a nice smooth bitterness without being harsh.

 

[HopsAreGood]

Slightly off topic but does anyone else notice that the flavor/aroma seems to be more pronounced and more assertive if you haven’t poured a glass from the keg in a few - several days? For example I went away for the past six days and when I came back the first pour seemed like there was a ton of aroma. I’ve noticed this in the past as well where if a few days go bye without pouring anything, that first pour seems to pack a punch.

Conversely if I pour a few pints throughout a given day or night, it sometimes seems that the level of potency is a bit subdued.

Just an observation but I’m curious if others have noticed this.

 

[stickyfinger]

Have you ever noticed that when you go away for a few days and come back that your house has a strange aroma? Seriously. I winder if there is a longterm desensitization to familiar aromas. I’m only half joking here lol

Slightly off topic but does anyone else notice that the flavor/aroma seems to be more pronounced and more assertive if you haven’t poured a glass from the keg in a few - several days? For example I went away for the past six days and when I came back the first pour seemed like there was a ton of aroma. I’ve noticed this in the past as well where if a few days go bye without pouring anything, that first pour seems to pack a punch.

Conversely if I pour a few pints throughout a given day or night, it sometimes seems that the level of potency is a bit subdued.

Just an observation but I’m curious if others have noticed this.

 

[couchsending]

Two beers in particular I really whipped up a whirlpool. Both had this taste I get with IPAs both homebrew and commercial. I guess I would call it a combo of cat piss and grass clippings after the main flavor of the hops fade as you swallow. I sometimes get a light instance of this flavor, but never as bad as the times I did the large WPs while stirring.

The beers both also faded, turned brown, and had more pronounced vegetal taste after about 3 weeks...although I chalked that up to possible aeration in the transfer process.

You don’t need to Whirlpool for extended periods of time nor does the whirlpool need to be very aggressive. That being said large whirlpool amounts and a lot of stirring is not causing cat piss and grass clippings, that all comes down to the quality of your hops (and maybe your water/ph but that’s another matter).

Your beer turning brown has nothing to do with hot side aeration, that’s from oxidation on the cold side and it turning brown means there was a ton of oxygen ingress. Even the smallest amount of o2 exposure (measured in ppb) will have a negative effect on hop flavor and aroma. You need to be incredibly meticulous about keeping o2 exposure to the absolute minimum with hoop beers (or any beer for that matter).

as @Dgallo said 4mmp is the thiol that causes Cat Piss. At low levels it’s very tropical, at elevated levels it becomes cat piss. This is often associated with hops that are picked at the end of their picking window. As homebrewers we often get what's left over after the pros do selection. The late pick lots that are often more catty, oniony, garlic, diesel are most often what’s left over so that’s what we get sadly.

4mmp doesn’t really survive fermentation all that well and it’s also volatilized by copper so if you’re using a copper CFC or immersion chiller it probably wont make it through to the final beer anyways, at least not much of it. However if your hops are high in it and you DH with those hops the result will be cat piss, onion, diesel, grass, etc.

Smell your hops, of when you open the bag they smell like stuff you don’t want in your beer, don’t add them to your beer, especially on the cold side.

I’ve actually gone to higher whirlpool temps lately. Lower the pH if you want less bitterness extraction.

 

[wepeeler]

Slightly off topic but does anyone else notice that the flavor/aroma seems to be more pronounced and more assertive if you haven’t poured a glass from the keg in a few - several days? For example I went away for the past six days and when I came back the first pour seemed like there was a ton of aroma. I’ve noticed this in the past as well where if a few days go bye without pouring anything, that first pour seems to pack a punch.

Conversely if I pour a few pints throughout a given day or night, it sometimes seems that the level of potency is a bit subdued.

Just an observation but I’m curious if others have noticed this.

That can be associated with getting a lot of trub into your keg. Hop debris and yeast. I've been brewing larger batches lately to get exactly 5 gallons into the keg. At least 6 gallons goes into the fermenter, but I get a full 5 gallons every time, with little waste.

You don’t need to Whirlpool for extended periods of time nor does the whirlpool need to be very aggressive. That being said large whirlpool amounts and a lot of stirring is not causing cat piss and grass clippings, that all comes down to the quality of your hops (and maybe your water/ph but that’s another matter).

Your beer turning brown has nothing to do with hot side aeration, that’s from oxidation on the cold side and it turning brown means there was a ton of oxygen ingress. Even the smallest amount of o2 exposure (measured in ppb) will have a negative effect on hop flavor and aroma. You need to be incredibly meticulous about keeping o2 exposure to the absolute minimum with hoop beers (or any beer for that matter).

as @Dgallo said 4mmp is the thiol that causes Cat Piss. At low levels it’s very tropical, at elevated levels it becomes cat piss. This is often associated with hops that are picked at the end of their picking window. As homebrewers we often get what's left over after the pros do selection. The late pick lots that are often more catty, oniony, garlic, diesel are most often what’s left over so that’s what we get sadly.

4mmp doesn’t really survive fermentation all that well and it’s also volatilized by copper so if you’re using a copper CFC or immersion chiller it probably wont make it through to the final beer anyways, at least not much of it. However if your hops are high in it and you DH with those hops the result will be cat piss, onion, diesel, grass, etc.

Smell your hops, of when you open the bag they smell like stuff you don’t want in your beer, don’t add them to your beer, especially on the cold side.

I’ve actually gone to higher whirlpool temps lately. Lower the pH if you want less bitterness extraction.

Cat piss and onion flavors also come from boiling certain hops too long. Citra and Simcoe are notorious for that. What is your thought on shorter Whirlpooling? Most everything I've researched (and done personally) says 30 minutes and lower temps, but there has to be some leeway. Of course crappy hops would give you worse flavors/aromas. I would think people wouldn't throw in bad smelling hops. It can't be as simple as that.

 

[couchsending]

That can be associated with getting a lot of trub into your keg. Hop debris and yeast. I've been brewing larger batches lately to get exactly 5 gallons into the keg. At least 6 gallons goes into the fermenter, but I get a full 5 gallons every time, with little waste.

Cat piss and onion flavors also come from boiling certain hops too long. Citra and Simcoe are notorious for that. What is your thought on shorter Whirlpooling? Most everything I've researched (and done personally) says 30 minutes and lower temps, but there has to be some leeway. Of course crappy hops would give you worse flavors/aromas. I would think people wouldn't throw in bad smelling hops. It can't be as simple as that.

Cat piss and onion flavors definitely don’t come from boiling hops for too long. Those aromas are volatilized very quickly in the boil. Those aromas generally stem from the 4mmp thiol that is easily boiled off. The one thiol that increase during the boil is 3MH which is “rhubarb and citrus”. Simcoe and Citra are both high in that thiol and can actually benefit from being boiled for extended periods of time, especially if your yeast is capable of converting 3MH into 3MHA which is more passion fruit.

You can get vegetative flavors in the beer by boiling an excessive amount of hop matter for long periods of time, hence the use of Co2 extracts.

It takes very little time for the compounds in hops to solubilize into wort. The goal of whirlpooling is to form a better trub cone so you can pull off clearer wort, honestly you don’t need more than 10 minutes of WP and 10 minutes of settling.

I’ve always cooled to 180 for WP more to prevent DMS formation than anything else. I boil at around 201 and lately I’ve been just throwing hops in without cooling and starting the WP just below 200. Honestly the aroma and flavor at the end of fermentation has been better than those batches cooled to 180.

 

[Dgallo]

FOR ALL YOU NELSON FANS!!!!!

YAKIMA VALLEY HOPS has a very low quantity of 2020 Nelson Stocked. They did not advertise it (that I’m aware of at least)... thought I’d inform all you fine folks. Only a little over 35 lbs left so hurry

 

[wepeeler]

Cat piss and onion flavors definitely don’t come from boiling hops for too long. Those aromas are volatilized very quickly in the boil. Those aromas generally stem from the 4mmp thiol that is easily boiled off. The one thiol that increase during the boil is 3MH which is “rhubarb and citrus”. Simcoe and Citra are both high in that thiol and can actually benefit from being boiled for extended periods of time, especially if your yeast is capable of converting 3MH into 3MHA which is more passion fruit.

You can get vegetative flavors in the beer by boiling an excessive amount of hop matter for long periods of time, hence the use of Co2 extracts.

It takes very little time for the compounds in hops to solubilize into wort. The goal of whirlpooling is to form a better trub cone so you can pull off clearer wort, honestly you don’t need more than 10 minutes of WP and 10 minutes of settling.

I’ve always cooled to 180 for WP more to prevent DMS formation than anything else. I boil at around 201 and lately I’ve been just throwing hops in without cooling and starting the WP just below 200. Honestly the aroma and flavor at the end of fermentation has been better than those batches cooled to 180.

Citra is not recommended for bittering additions. Despite its high alpha acid and low co-humolone content, brewers have commented on its harsh bitterness and almost catty character (BYO Vol. 17, No. 1). An excellent addition for late in the boil, the whirlpool, or dry-hopping, Citra has been known to lend a wide number of delicate and desired aromatics including gooseberry, lychee, mango, melon, grapefruit, orange rind and passionfruit.

Seems like the longer you boil, the more you may be able to perceive cattiness.

4MMP – the compound that makes Citra so interesting. At low levels it produces Black Currant, at medium levels will produce a tropical flavor and can end up tasting catty. The interesting thing about 4MMP is perception is different for men and women. Men will perceive the tropical characteristic whereas women will perceive the catty character more easily. It turns out there is a genetic difference in the receptor in humans for 4MMP

Also seems as though some people can perceive cattiness and others can not. Not only for men vs women. There are people in my brew club that can't drink mosaic beers for that reason. They get overwhelming flavors of cat piss whereas the rest of the group gets dankness and berries. If 4MMP is so easily boiled off, no one should be able to perceive it.

Interesting on the WPing. I get different results. The higher temps (180ish) produce a harsher product, whereas lower temps (140-160) are softer and more flavorful.

 

[secretlevel]

FOR ALL YOU NELSON FANS!!!!!

YAKIMA VALLEY HOPS has a very low quantity of 2020 Nelson Stocked. They did not advertise it (that I’m aware of at least)... thought I’d inform all you fine folks. Only a little over 35 lbs left so hurry

Thanks for the heads up! Going to swoop some up for sure.

Two interesting questions for you guys - are homebrew hops just leftover lots that breweries didn't select?

Another one - YVH really seem to be pushing Topaz this year because it was supposedly highly regarded in hop selection. However, I don't see too many breweries making anything with it. Has anyone brewed with it?

 

[couchsending]

Citra is not recommended for bittering additions. Despite its high alpha acid and low co-humolone content, brewers have commented on its harsh bitterness and almost catty character (BYO Vol. 17, No. 1). An excellent addition for late in the boil, the whirlpool, or dry-hopping, Citra has been known to lend a wide number of delicate and desired aromatics including gooseberry, lychee, mango, melon, grapefruit, orange rind and passionfruit.

Seems like the longer you boil, the more you may be able to perceive cattiness.

4MMP – the compound that makes Citra so interesting. At low levels it produces Black Currant, at medium levels will produce a tropical flavor and can end up tasting catty. The interesting thing about 4MMP is perception is different for men and women. Men will perceive the tropical characteristic whereas women will perceive the catty character more easily. It turns out there is a genetic difference in the receptor in humans for 4MMP

Also seems as though some people can perceive cattiness and others can not. Not only for men vs women. There are people in my brew club that can't drink mosaic beers for that reason. They get overwhelming flavors of cat piss whereas the rest of the group gets dankness and berries. If 4MMP is so easily boiled off, no one should be able to perceive it.

Interesting on the WPing. I get different results. The higher temps (180ish) produce a harsher product, whereas lower temps (140-160) are softer and more flavorful.

That BYO article is from 2011 right? There’s a bit more know about hops now than in 2011.

This has some better more up to date science based info on 4mmp and other thiols and flavor active compounds in hops.

http://scottjanish.com/survivables-unpacking-hot-side-hop-flavor/
if you were to make a beer with just Citra at 60 minutes I guarantee you there would be no “cattiness” in the beer. Dry hopping (or low whirlpool temps) is the best way to get it into the beer although then it doesn’t survive fermentation nearly as well as other aromatic compounds.

The “harshness” from boiling Citra is more likely due to the higher than normal polyphenol content. Similar results would come from boiling Galaxy.

I’m not saying you should add it at 60 minutes but don’t be afraid of 30 minute additions. There are definitely compounds in hops that benefit from boiling and will make it into even heavily dry hopped beers.

I’ve been messing with adding decent amounts of Simcoe and Cascade at 30 lately (no beginning of boil addition) and the difference in the final beer was pretty eye opening. You could definitely pick out aroma contributions of the beer with the 30 minute addition even with a rather large DH charge. I went into these experiments doubting that I would see a big difference and was pleasantly surprised.

To me beers that are only whirlpooled and dry hopped lack depth and character. You can create much more interesting aroma and flavor profiles by adding certain hops at certain times on the hotside.

 

[wepeeler]

That BYO article is from 2011 right? There’s a bit more know about hops now than in 2011.

This has some better more up to date science based info on 4mmp and other thiols and flavor active compounds in hops.

http://scottjanish.com/survivables-unpacking-hot-side-hop-flavor/
if you were to make a beer with just Citra at 60 minutes I guarantee you there would be no “cattiness” in the beer. Dry hopping (or low whirlpool temps) is the best way to get it into the beer although then it doesn’t survive fermentation nearly as well as other aromatic compounds.

The “harshness” from boiling Citra is more likely due to the higher than normal polyphenol content. Similar results would come from boiling Galaxy.

I’m not saying you should add it at 60 minutes but don’t be afraid of 30 minute additions. There are definitely compounds in hops that benefit from boiling and will make it into even heavily dry hopped beers.

I’ve been messing with adding decent amounts of Simcoe and Cascade at 30 lately (no beginning of boil addition) and the difference in the final beer was pretty eye opening. You could definitely pick out aroma contributions of the beer with the 30 minute addition even with a rather large DH charge. I went into these experiments doubting that I would see a big difference and was pleasantly surprised.

To me beers that are only whirlpooled and dry hopped lack depth and character. You can create much more interesting aroma and flavor profiles by adding certain hops at certain times on the hotside.

Cool, I'll take a look. I've read Janish's New IPA book, and it was excellent. Actually been meaning to read it a second time.

I've done Citra additions all the way up to 20 minutes. Never had cattiness in my beer from boiling but definitely harshness. Since the only thing I changed was the WP temp, I figured it was that. Lower WP temps give me a smoother product sooner. I don't boil Galaxy at all anymore. I find it comes off way too harsh. WP and DH only for me. I feel as though I'm in the minority when it comes to Galaxy, Strata and the Aussie/NZ hops. I think they come off too strong, whereas brewers and drinkers alike love them.

My hop schedule used to be 60 min bittering, then 20, 10, 5, flameout. No WP. I've recently settled on a small 60 min bittering, then 15, 10, 5, WP at 160. Although I vary slightly depending on my hop combo (sometimes I skip the 15 min addition). I've actually done an all Citra neipa that was close to my favorite. 15, 10, 5 WP. Zero cattiness. I'm not a fan of Simcoe.

 

[Genuine]

I've been toying around with the thought of breaking up my WP additions throughout the temp ranges...IE. Toss together the hops I want to use in the WP (for 7oz total), 2oz at flame out, 2oz at 180f and 3oz at 160f to see if that changes anything.

 

[ChiknNutz]

Quick question concerning my proposed dry-hop schedule. I brewed on Sunday and am currently planning to add the hops tonight (6 oz total), so essentially 48 hours after pitching yeast. I was then going to leave them for 5-7 days, then transfer to the serving keg. I was first planning to dry hop in a wilser bag, but many say the hops are better utilized when loose. So current plan is to go commando. Anything you would change about this approach or good to go?

 

[JoeMamasIPA]

Quick question concerning my proposed dry-hop schedule. I brewed on Sunday and am currently planning to add the hops tonight (6 oz total), so essentially 48 hours after pitching yeast. I was then going to leave them for 5-7 days, then transfer to the serving keg. I was first planning to dry hop in a wilser bag, but many say the hops are better utilized when loose. So current plan is to go commando. Anything you would change about this approach or good to go?

I would wait a few more days before the dry hop instead of doing it around peak fermentation. My beers always take on a better taste with less hops that way.

 

[JoeMamasIPA]

Question for the group, my Columbus/Mosaic DIIPA just finished up and is cold crashing right now. I have a separate purged keg with an additional 3oz of Mosaic sitting in the bottom of it waiting for the crash to be done. Here is my dilemma, the beer tasted absolutely great right out of the fermentation keg and I don't want to ruin it/overdue it. So I have three options; transfer whole batch into dry hopped keg, transfer half the batch, transfer nothing and just serve out of the fermentation keg (I have had good luck with this in the past). what says you? Thanks

 

[Dgallo]

Question for the group, my Columbus/Mosaic DIIPA just finished up and is cold crashing right now. I have a separate purged keg with an additional 3oz of Mosaic sitting in the bottom of it waiting for the crash to be done. Here is my dilemma, the beer tasted absolutely great right out of the fermentation keg and I don't want to ruin it/overdue it. So I have three options; transfer whole batch into dry hopped keg, transfer half the batch, transfer nothing and just serve out of the fermentation keg (I have had good luck with this in the past). what says you? Thanks

I say rack to the keg with mosaic

 

[JoeMamasIPA]

I say rack to the keg with mosaic

Just to be clear its already had a Mosaic dry hop, the second keg would be a DDH for this beer. Not sure if that changes your opinion.

 

[Dgallo]

Just to be clear its already had a Mosaic dry hop, the second keg would be a DDH for this beer. Not sure if that changes your opinion.

I practically ddh all my beers. I love the mosaic and Columbus combo. Dank with some great citrus/berry notes

 

[Noob_Brewer]

FOR ALL YOU NELSON FANS!!!!!

YAKIMA VALLEY HOPS has a very low quantity of 2020 Nelson Stocked. They did not advertise it (that I’m aware of at least)... thought I’d inform all you fine folks. Only a little over 35 lbs left so hurry

Thanks for the reminder, they've been up for about a week now I think, but just got an email today announcing them. Was trying to wait it out until Riwaka was added but decided to pull the trigger since nelson was low in stock.