New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

I would stick with Strata & Nelson. I've tried a commercial beer that used that combo and it was excellent.

That sounds good too. Bet it pulls The dank character out of both hops

 

[stickyfinger]

abv has little to do with ipa vs pale ale imo. it's all about the hops!

First full pint on day 21. Waimea, Southern Star, Barbe Rouge. Waimea definitely best smelling straight out of the bag. After a botched mash (Strike water too high, dropped thermometer into kettle) this 1.064 OG supposed to be IPA finished at a 1.020 Pale Ale.

Grain bill based on Trillium's "Dialed" series. About 70% Pils, 22% Flaked Wheat, 5% Carapils, and about 2 oz of acid malt. First fully closed transfer and that put it over the top above all the other NEIPA's I've done. White Labs 008 East Coast Ale is what I've had the best results with for these beers and curious if anyone else has tried and what their take is compared to the rest of the "normal" yeasts used for the style. Thanks all for the tips, this one will go fast

 

[Frieds]

View attachment 692569

First full pint on day 21. Waimea, Southern Star, Barbe Rouge. Waimea definitely best smelling straight out of the bag. After a botched mash (Strike water too high, dropped thermometer into kettle) this 1.064 OG supposed to be IPA finished at a 1.020 Pale Ale.

Grain bill based on Trillium's "Dialed" series. About 70% Pils, 22% Flaked Wheat, 5% Carapils, and about 2 oz of acid malt. First fully closed transfer and that put it over the top above all the other NEIPA's I've done. White Labs 008 East Coast Ale is what I've had the best results with for these beers and curious if anyone else has tried and what their take is compared to the rest of the "normal" yeasts used for the style. Thanks all for the tips, this one will go fast

I have a packet of 008 in my fridge that I haven’t used yet. What temp do you ferment it at?

 

[drewmuni8]

I have a packet of 008 in my fridge that I haven’t used yet. What temp do you ferment it at?

67, then ramped up to 71 slowly after my first FG reading of 1.020 thinking it was stuck around day 7/8. I throw in just a single packet as I'm only doing 2.75 gallon batches and typically works great.

 

[secretlevel]

Those of you that have used Imperial A24 Dryhop, Is it a very fast fermenter? I used it for the first time Saturday. Pitched at 66F and let it free rise to 72F. Airlock had stopped by Monday night on 1.062 OG. I have not check the gravity yet, just curious? Plan to bump the temp a couple more degrees.

Yeah, especially if it's fresh or off a starter. It's probably going through D-rest at the moment, check the FG and you're probably close to being done in a couple of days.

View attachment 692569

First full pint on day 21. Waimea, Southern Star, Barbe Rouge. Waimea definitely best smelling straight out of the bag. After a botched mash (Strike water too high, dropped thermometer into kettle) this 1.064 OG supposed to be IPA finished at a 1.020 Pale Ale.

Grain bill based on Trillium's "Dialed" series. About 70% Pils, 22% Flaked Wheat, 5% Carapils, and about 2 oz of acid malt. First fully closed transfer and that put it over the top above all the other NEIPA's I've done. White Labs 008 East Coast Ale is what I've had the best results with for these beers and curious if anyone else has tried and what their take is compared to the rest of the "normal" yeasts used for the style. Thanks all for the tips, this one will go fast

Pfft, that sounds awesome, how's the hop combo altogether? Any standout flavors? This just means you can have more than a couple of these and be fine.

I personally dig high FG on these beers so I usually mash higher on purpose. For me, it helps bring out some of the fun esters and hop flavors. I usually do either 1.065 OG and 1.019 FG for a regular IPA and 1.080 OG, 1.025 FG for a Double IPA. Anyone else like the fuller, sweeter NEIPAs?

 

[aaronm13]

Those of you that have used Imperial A24 Dryhop, Is it a very fast fermenter? I used it for the first time Saturday. Pitched at 66F and let it free rise to 72F. Airlock had stopped by Monday night on 1.062 OG. I have not check the gravity yet, just curious? Plan to bump the temp a couple more degrees.

Used it for the firsts time myself and will be kegging it over the next day or two. Yeast was probably finished in about 5 days.

 

[cheesebach]

With the trends seemingly shifting towards adding all dry hops post-fermentation in this style (vs. splitting it between active and post fermentation), has anyone noticed any difference (either positive or negative) from doing multiple dry hop charges vs. a single heavy addition when everything is added post-fermentation? Assuming you have some way to rouse the hops in whichever vessel you dry hop in, is there any reason to think you would get better extraction or different hop character from multiple dry hops? Having done a few batches with all dry hops post-fermentation now, I still feel as though I'm missing something in trying to achieve that hop-saturated flavor that I get from the DDH versions of beers from Monkish, Other Half, Trillium, etc. and trying to decide what my next experiment should be. I know that there is likely still improvement to be made in the hot side process as well, but the dry hop is where I seem to notice the most significant changes when I'm tweaking something in my process.

 

[Dgallo]

With the trends seemingly shifting towards adding all dry hops post-fermentation in this style (vs. splitting it between active and post fermentation), has anyone noticed any difference (either positive or negative) from doing multiple dry hop charges vs. a single heavy addition when everything is added post-fermentation? Assuming you have some way to rouse the hops in whichever vessel you dry hop in, is there any reason to think you would get better extraction or different hop character from multiple dry hops? Having done a few batches with all dry hops post-fermentation now, I still feel as though I'm missing something in trying to achieve that hop-saturated flavor that I get from the DDH versions of beers from Monkish, Other Half, Trillium, etc. and trying to decide what my next experiment should be. I know that there is likely still improvement to be made in the hot side process as well, but the dry hop is where I seem to notice the most significant changes when I'm tweaking something in my process.

Ive been double dryhoping and doing so loose for the past 4 years. It definitely aids in extraction in most cases. Extraction is all about surface area contact with the wort. By breaking the hops in two does, you are providing each addition more contact with the wort. Typically when a large dryhop is used in one addition, a good portion of the hops float about the wort and don’t make contact. This is the main reason pro brewers are splitting them up and using co2 to rouse them.

Now if your dryhoping in a keg and are able to invert the keg and ensure the hops are completely in contact with the wort, it will most likely be similar.

 

[Oldskewl]

Used it for the firsts time myself and will be kegging it over the next day or two. Yeast was probably finished in about 5 days.

Yeah, especially if it's fresh or off a starter. It's probably going through D-rest at the moment, check the FG and you're probably close to being done in a couple of days.

Thanks for the feedback. I can't say I have ever had my blow off stop after 2 days of fermentation on a 1.062 OG. I did notice some krausen that made it into the blow off tube. Hopefully that is not causing any clogging problems. I did do a 1L starter since it was 3 mo old from package date and I planned to kept 1/2 pint for a future batch. I will check the gravity Friday and see where we are.

 

[drewmuni8]

@secretlevel

Exactly, I'm definitely team low abv lol. I'd rather have two pints of 5 - 5.5% rather than one 7.5%, I guess I'm a bit of a lightweight in that sense. This just happened finish a bit higher than expecting. I'd always hit 1.010 and was hoping for something in the neighborhood of 1.012-1.016.

I have to say the Barbe Rouge was a bit disappointing out of the bag, no "red berry" at all it was quite earthy actually. Cause of its low AA I saved it exclusively for the dryhop. So Waimea and Southern Star in the kettle and both those and the Barbe Rouge in the dryhop. Major fruit aroma but the one that came to mind first was pineapple, particularly with some of the non carbonated samples.

I think next time around ill try and bring down the flaked grain and go for all malted white wheat at around 10-15% and two row, similar to what Trillium does for there "Street Series". While I definitely got the haze this time around, head retention suffered and is a bit unappealing to me.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

View attachment 692569

First full pint on day 21. Waimea, Southern Star, Barbe Rouge. Waimea definitely best smelling straight out of the bag. After a botched mash (Strike water too high, dropped thermometer into kettle) this 1.064 OG supposed to be IPA finished at a 1.020 Pale Ale.

Grain bill based on Trillium's "Dialed" series. About 70% Pils, 22% Flaked Wheat, 5% Carapils, and about 2 oz of acid malt. First fully closed transfer and that put it over the top above all the other NEIPA's I've done. White Labs 008 East Coast Ale is what I've had the best results with for these beers and curious if anyone else has tried and what their take is compared to the rest of the "normal" yeasts used for the style. Thanks all for the tips, this one will go fast

I used WLP east coast ale in 4 straight batches awhile back. It performed well for me. It seemed to have pretty low esters because in those beers the hops really shined. It's on my list to circle back around to eventually.

 

[BobbyC14]

Has anyone ever used Vienna to add a little malt backbone to a NEIPA. I’m toying with the idea to breakaway from my usuals Golden Promise, Flaked Oat and White Wheat.

also going to test out Hornidal Kviek as the yeast at about 92*

 

[echoALEia]

Has anyone ever used Vienna to add a little malt backbone to a NEIPA. I’m toying with the idea to breakaway from my usuals Golden Promise, Flaked Oat and White Wheat.

also going to test out Hornidal Kviek as the yeast at about 92*

I use Vienna and Munich (under 10L) in most of my NEIPA recipes and love what they add. I personally try to aim for an SRM between 5-6.

 

[couchsending]

Has anyone ever used Vienna to add a little malt backbone to a NEIPA. I’m toying with the idea to breakaway from my usuals Golden Promise, Flaked Oat and White Wheat.

also going to test out Hornidal Kviek as the yeast at about 92*

Golden Promise adds a lot of “malt backbone” on its own. Make the same beer with American 2row as your base malt and I think you’d be surprised at the difference. Golden Promise is much sweeter than 2row. Also keep in mind a lot of the English malts are much lower in protein than American grown barley. So if your goal is haze (or protein contribution) you’re already at a disadvantage on the largest percentage of malt in your grist.

 

[ChiknNutz]

I have decided to go ahead and make a version of this, based on this post in this thread. It will be my first attempt at this style. It's essentially the same, but I am planning to do 1 oz. of hot side hops and also adding some lactose to help give it a "milkshake" feel. I have already bought all the ingredients, but haven't started the brew.

 

[InspectorJon]

You will get some bitterness out of the flame out hops unless you let the temperature drop before you add those hops. Most opinions seem to be to drop below 170F unless you want the added bitterness.

 

[ChiknNutz]

You will get some bitterness out of the flame out hops unless you let the temperature drop before you add those hops. Most opinions seem to be to drop below 170F unless you want the added bitterness.

For the flameout hops, my plan is to not add those 'til it gets below 160. I also have a more detailed recipe with instructions I created in Word so I don't miss some stuff as I brew. I still feel a bit inexperienced and this will be the most advanced batch I've done so far.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Most of the pros add their whirlpool hops at near boiling temps or pretty hot temps because it's hard for them to cool and they don't pull excessive bitterness, so you shouldn't be too scared of it. As you dial in your recipe I would try various temps and see what you like best. I top off a little at the end of my boil to get to my target fermenter volume and my temp is usually in the 185-195 range after that. I've cooled lower before adding whirlpool hops but I tend to like the results from just adding at that temp.

 

[tld6008]

I have decided to go ahead and make a version of this, based on this post in this thread. It will be my first attempt at this style. It's essentially the same, but I am planning to do 1 oz. of hot side hops and also adding some lactose to help give it a "milkshake" feel. I have already bought all the ingredients, but haven't started the brew.

fyi, I made this one and was very happy with the results
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/milkshake-ipa.654518/

 

[cheesebach]

Ive been double dryhoping and doing so loose for the past 4 years. It definitely aids in extraction in most cases. Extraction is all about surface area contact with the wort. By breaking the hops in two does, you are providing each addition more contact with the wort. Typically when a large dryhop is used in one addition, a good portion of the hops float about the wort and don’t make contact. This is the main reason pro brewers are splitting them up and using co2 to rouse them.

Now if your dryhoping in a keg and are able to invert the keg and ensure the hops are completely in contact with the wort, it will most likely be similar.

Thanks for the input! So since I'm dry hopping in the keg, sloshing it around a couple times a day to mix up which hops are at the top of the "pile" would likely accomplish the same goal as doing multiple dry hop additions? This is basically what I did for my last batch, and did get a decently strong hop character out of it, but it comes off as being a "sharper" hop flavor than what I'd like in this style. It was also my first experience using malted oats though, so I'm guessing it's more likely to be the change in grain bill contributing to this. In your double dry hop process, do you usually remove the spent hops from the 1st addition before the 2nd? Or just putting the second in on top of the first?

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks for the input! So since I'm dry hopping in the keg, sloshing it around a couple times a day to mix up which hops are at the top of the "pile" would likely accomplish the same goal as doing multiple dry hop additions? This is basically what I did for my last batch, and did get a decently strong hop character out of it, but it comes off as being a "sharper" hop flavor than what I'd like in this style. It was also my first experience using malted oats though, so I'm guessing it's more likely to be the change in grain bill contributing to this. In your double dry hop process, do you usually remove the spent hops from the 1st addition before the 2nd? Or just putting the second in on top of the first?

I just toss them in on top, the first one had typically sunk or dissipated to a thin layer on top of the wort.

if you are fermenting in the same keg your dryhoping in, I would advise against inverting the keg. Then your throwing all the trub back into suspension and that will lead to a slew of problems such as oil stripping, increasing the potential of hopcreep and hop burn. If you transferring to a purged dryhop keg specifically, then when you invert it, do it very gentling, all your looking to do is get the hops resuspended or in contact with the wort. If you agetate too vigorously you can actually increase your extraction on polyphenols and lead to increased hopburn

 

[BobbyC14]

Golden Promise adds a lot of “malt backbone” on its own. Make the same beer with American 2row as your base malt and I think you’d be surprised at the difference. Golden Promise is much sweeter than 2row. Also keep in mind a lot of the English malts are much lower in protein than American grown barley. So if your goal is haze (or protein contribution) you’re already at a disadvantage on the largest percentage of malt in your grist.

Thanks for the input. I was going to split the 75% Base Malts between GP and 2Row like I did with my Milkshake and my last American IPA which both turned out great and nice and hazy. Wasn't sure if substituting a pound of Vienna for 1/2 of each of my base would add anything to the flavor profile or if the hops would just over take anything the malt would give. I'm still playing with my hop ratios but I have 8oz each of Moteuka, Citra and Azacca to play with and I still have 1/2 left of Warrior for a 10-20 minute addition.

 

[couchsending]

Thanks for the input. I was going to split the 75% Base Malts between GP and 2Row like I did with my Milkshake and my last American IPA which both turned out great and nice and hazy. Wasn't sure if substituting a pound of Vienna for 1/2 of each of my base would add anything to the flavor profile or if the hops would just over take anything the malt would give. I'm still playing with my hop ratios but I have 8oz each of Moteuka, Citra and Azacca to play with and I still have 1/2 left of Warrior for a 10-20 minute addition.

Doubt you’d notice much difference in Vienna over Golden Promise... A pound of Munich 1 maybe. A lot of brewers combine a certain percentage of Munich with standard 2 Row in hopes of replicating a more English malt profile but at the cost of 2row. I believe Firestone does it a lot.

 

[anteater8]

Doubt you’d notice much difference in Vienna over Golden Promise... A pound of Munich 1 maybe. A lot of brewers combine a certain percentage of Munich with standard 2 Row in hopes of replicating a more English malt profile but at the cost of 2row. I believe Firestone does it a lot.

I've recently landed on 80% 2-row, 20% Vienna for my west coast IPAs and haven't looked back. Super clean, lets the hops shine, but adds enough backbone and sweetness to not be boring. I think supplementing some 2-row with Vienna would work well in a NEIPA too.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I did a beer 50/50 2-row and vienna and Vic Secret. It was only hopped at 1oz/gal so not my usual hop-bomb levels and I was shooting for more of a hoppy pale ale but it came out intensely tropical fruity. I feel like the vienna sweetness may have amplified the vic secret. Might be worth playing around with in NEIPA haze bombs.

 

[Sbe2]

Has anyone ever used Vienna to add a little malt backbone to a NEIPA. I’m toying with the idea to breakaway from my usuals Golden Promise, Flaked Oat and White Wheat.

also going to test out Hornidal Kviek as the yeast at about 92*

GP adds a lot of malt character compared to 2-row. I noticed the difference between Simpsons GP and Rahr 2-Row when I switched up base malt. I may buy a sack of GP, as it’s been a few sacks since I used it. Thanks!

PS. Don’t fear Hornindal. When I need a new keg in less than two weeks it’s my go to. I just drop a tablespoon of goop from my Hornindal mason jar.

 

[BobbyC14]

GP adds a lot of malt character compared to 2-row. I noticed the difference between Simpsons GP and Rahr 2-Row when I switched up base malt. I may buy a sack of GP, as it’s been a few sacks since I used it. Thanks!

PS. Don’t fear Hornindal. When I need a new keg in less than two weeks it’s my go to. I just drop a tablespoon of goop from my Hornindal mason jar.

Good to know! Just a tablespoon? So I shouldn't pitch the whole pack. Someone was telling me the other day the same thing, put I can't find a pitch rate calc to factor in the Hornindal's intensity. I mean what's the worst that can happy my blowoff assembly from my SS Brewbuck gets a little filled up lol

 

[VirginiaHops1]

Good to know! Just a tablespoon? So I shouldn't pitch the whole pack. Someone was telling me the other day the same thing, put I can't find a pitch rate calc to factor in the Hornindal's intensity. I mean what's the worst that can happy my blowoff assembly from my SS Brewbuck gets a little filled up lol

I worked with Hornindal last year and made a starter out of the pouch and split into like 5 mason jars and pitched those. Fermentation seemed fairly normal. I got some Voss this summer and have done one batch with it and just pitched about tablespoon or so of slurry from the pouch. It took off like a missile and was the craziest blow-off activity I've ever seen. So yeah I think these kveiks love to be underpitched by a lot especially if you're fermenting hot

 

[Dgallo]

Good to know! Just a tablespoon? So I shouldn't pitch the whole pack. Someone was telling me the other day the same thing, put I can't find a pitch rate calc to factor in the Hornindal's intensity. I mean what's the worst that can happy my blowoff assembly from my SS Brewbuck gets a little filled up lol

All depends on what your looking for as your final flavor profile. Last summer into the fall I used Hornindal pretty religiously in hoppy beers to get a feel for it. A healthy pitch of 1 table spoon in enough to take a 1.074 - 1.012 in about 50-60 hours. My only issue with the lower pitch rate and running 85+ with Hornindal, is the esters completely dominated the beer. You could taste hops but the character from specific varieties would not show. I did a single hop double ipa with Galaxy and there was zero Galaxy profile to speak of. When I increased my pitch rate to 3 tablespoons with a single hop pale ale using Galaxy, I got the Galaxy notes paired with Hornindal. Very similar experience with Voss, however those beers weren’t single hopped beers, so there were other variables in the mix. In my experience, kviek yeast are great if you do not have temp control or you need a beer done quickly for an event (I’ve gone grain to glass with double dryhopping and crashing in 7 days) but it takes some balance and finesse to get the esters and the hops to shine at the same time.

 

[Sbe2]

@BobbyC14 What @Dgallo said