- Joined
- Aug 8, 2017
- Messages
- 1,509
- Reaction score
- 1,781
What software are you guys using to calculate IBU's? I use BeerSmith 2 and it doesn't calculate whirlpool hops worth a flip. According to my software most of mine NEIPA's are 70-100 IBU's.
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Awesome stuff! This is a lot more targeted than what I was just about to do with paper and pen going through iteration after iteration of figuring that all out
. Will let ya'll know how this ends up. TBH - my #1 concern is that my wife likes it because she loves these beers AND she's supported my new hobby thus far lolNoob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
I use BS3 and I agree about the WP hot IBUs. But I don’t think from what I’ve read that any of the calculators really have the best models to calculate IBUs at WP temps. So I’ve simply clicked the box in BS3 to include hop utilization in WP and let it ride! Lol
I'm using BS2 and the whirlpool calculations are garbage as well. My IPA's usually calculate out somewhere between 90-150 IBU. I'd guess I'm coming in somewhere closer to 40-70. I probably need to go in and adjust my hop utilization figures, but I've kind of gotten to the point where I know what to expect from those high numbers and don't want to mess with my system.
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Wondering if this was fixed with BS3 because when I bring about 6.5oz of hope to the hot side - my estimates in BS3 are always in the 30-50 range, not even close to what y'all are getting with BS2
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2017
- Messages
- 1,509
- Reaction score
- 1,781
Yes, I just purchased BS3 since my lsat post and using the same recipe i get a 25ibu difference as BS3 calculates for whirlpool length and temp where as BS2 dosnt. I just bit the bullet and paid the $14 for the newer version. Kinda liked the layout of the older though. Calciualting hop IBU's is pretty much a guess anyway but now atleast im in the ballapark!
They have a "Steep/Whirlpool Util Factor" in the preferences section of BS2. You can use that to adjust the IBU extraction from whirlpool additions based on the temperature that you normally whirlpool at. It can't account for differing temperatures. I think in BS3 they updated the calculation to automatically calculate based on a whirlpool temp you specify in the recipe.
Edit: ^Beat me to it.
Last edited:
You can change the color of the layout in BS3 back to the light blue in BS2. View-> Look and Feel -> Color Scheme
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2017
- Messages
- 1,509
- Reaction score
- 1,781
There's the magical "hop IBU chart" as when OG goes up, perceived IBUs does too.... unless your FG is off of course.
I do find that as I up the IBUs, it does seem a bit more bitter. My FGs always hover in the 1.013-1.015 range on my "big" NEIPAs (OG greater than 1.075)
So where does the NEIPA fit in using this chart? I mean those who are building water with high chloride ratio's in the 200-300ppm range i believe can get away with higher IBU's than 65? I have been using BS2 so IBU's have always been an estimated guess in my process. I'm looking to brew a 1.075 beer and get up to around 70 IBU's not counting dry hops.
secretlevel
Well-Known Member
Brewfather all the way baby! No need to install any programs or apps, works in any browser and any device, can have 10 recipes for free and even share them. Plus it's a simple, modern, and intuitive interface.
couchsending
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2016
- Messages
- 3,037
- Reaction score
- 2,133
Warrior/Nelson/Riwaka/Zappa hotside
Nelson/Riwaka/Citra coldside
So since the virus lockdown has started I’ve been forced to use my well water a bit more. When we first bought the house I had a water test done but it just showed Total Hardness and alkalinity. With those numbers in mind I could hit my pH targets but really didn’t know the ion content. I made some assumptions based on our local municipal water but that’s it. Brewed maybe 8 or so beers just kinda “winging it”. Rarely did I do that before. 95% of my beers were always built from RO.
Welp got my Ward Labs report back and was kind of blown away by it. Like I said I new the hardness and alkalinity but didn’t know anything else. I’ve been blending 50/50 RO and tap. We have an RO faucet on our kitchen sink. I didn’t bother using it in the past cause it took 5 hours to fill a 5 gallon jug. Now that I’m avoiding the grocery store I just fill it at night.
Anyways water report reads as follows
Bicarbonate: 293
Calcium: 148
Sodium: 48
Magnesium: 34
So4: 45 (So4-S was 15)
Cl: 203!!
Clearly some pretty f’ed water for pale beer. At least in theory...
Been using 85% phosphoric to adjust most of the time and adding some salts of varying amounts to essentially the same base beers.
I can honestly say since I started using my well water these are the best beers I’ve made to date, and I’ve made a sh*t ton of beer (around 100 brews in 2019, more than 300 in 4 years). I had never pushed the ion content this far in the past and I think actually having such high bicarbonate isn’t a bad thing if you know how to work with it. I think it’s just amplifying certain aspects of the beer that I didn’t get using RO water.
@couchsending so you used the water straight from the tap or used the RO from tap? Did you add anything other than acid?
couchsending
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2016
- Messages
- 3,037
- Reaction score
- 2,133
50/50 tap/RO
That report is straight tap. I’d blend 50% RO in to that so cut everything in half. Then adjust with acid and add some salts from there.
That report is straight tap. I’d blend 50% RO in to that so cut everything in half. Then adjust with acid and add some salts from there.
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
My first couple of NEIPAs my IBUs were in the mid 50s. they were good, wife liked them too. But last several, my IBUs were in the 35-40 range and Ive liked them more. Based on this chart, and given my gravities (1.061-1.067) my most recent beers targeting 35-40 IBUs fall into the "slightly hoppy" color scheme. So with my very first "virgin" double NEIPA that I will be brewing tomorrow, I simply upped my IBUs slightly to stay in that same "slightly hoppy" color range. My finalized recipe estimates OG of 1.074 and my IBUs are estimated to be 42.5. Basically - I used @Dgallo scheme of scaling up the total hop volume he posted earlier in this thread, and then I spread out the increased hop volumes among the hops I am using AND spread them among - bittering/whirlpool/dryhop stages. Will let you know how it works out, but for my first double Im not trying to get too sophisticated.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
I used to build from distilled water and it would cost me almost $10 a beer in water. Thankfully a buddy who brews down the road from me shared our municipal water report with me. Its very easy tap water to build off and it comes out at 127*f so it’s makes heating strike water take less than 10 mins
I have never adjusted water in my life. I just fill the pot from tap and heat up my water. This is the report from our city water. What would you add to get this where you would want it for this beer?
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
From my experience, You don’t quite have all the information needed for brewing. Missing your bicarbonate, Calcium, mg that I quickly noticed. But your water seems really neutral for the most part so if you get the info you need you have easy water to build off.
Thanks. May have to call them to get that info. I know it comes from lake michigan and have heard from other breweries that we have good water for brewing here.
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
Is there any breweries on your exact municipal water supply? If so I’d call them to see if they will share the water report with you. They will have everything you need
For the last 2 years of brewing at my new house, I used distilled water from the store. However, I was tired of going to the store and lugging in 9-14+ gallon jugs of water to brew with so I bought an RO system and now I can be 100% reliant on my tap water. It takes a few hours to fill so I just let it run into my kettle overnight and by the time I wake, it's at the volume I need. Besides switching to distilled and building a water profile, the RO has helped me make some great beers. Couldn't be happier with it. Plus now I'm avoiding the stores as much possible so it's making my brewing life easy!
Yes, I will check
Why would your tap water be 127f? Are you getting it from the hot water tap or do you live on the slope of a volcano?
Dgallo
Instagram: bantam_brews
haha of course I was talking about running on hot. we have a hot water on demand system so I can technically set the temp hotter but I have a little one and we don’t want to any mishaps
The Juicy Bits has been carbonated for 7 days now and it is a good example of what the local brewpubs are putting out as NEIPAs around here. I was hoping for a fuller mouth feel but it is pretty much on par with the other recipes I have brewed in that regard. Definitely a good juicy beer but nothing extraordinary.
Looks really good. I am brewing this in the next couple of weeks. I need to clear a couple fermentors first. I am using ctira and simcoe is the only difference from the recipe posted just because I have pounds of them.
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
My last NEIPA. revisited a previous recipe I brewed about 2 months ago with Citra/I7/Nelson and warrior for bitterning. On that brew I went with equal 1:1:1 ratios of citra/I7/Nelson but got more of the black tea from I7 than I was wanting. Lighting not the greatest as its not as "orange" in color as the pic suggests. This is a winner as determined by my wife! Hops used this time around was Columbus (60 and 10min boil), Idaho7, Citra, and Nelson. This go-round I went heavier with I7 on hotside and lower on dry hop in order to focus on Citra and Nelson for the dry hop.
Overall impression: i think this is as close to as a beer-version of a mimosa as you could get! used voss kviek yeast but purposefully didn't underpitch in order to minimize the ester profile from overpowering hops. Used a standard ale pitch rate but still fermented it at 95ish degrees.
Strong orange flavor with white wine. Very smooth and delicious. Get the citrus/white wine aroma that I absolutely love. Best part? When my wife taste tested this beer as a sample after the 3rd day after kegging when carbonation still wasn't there, she said - "you are going to brew this again right?" I took that reply as a "go-ahead sign that I need to buy more nelson! lol. This is a great hop combo overall and we love it.
Hops used this time around was Columbus (60 and 10min boil), Idaho7, Citra, and Nelson. This go-round I went heavier with I7 on hotside and lower on dry hop in order to focus on Citra and Nelson for the dry hop.Overall impression: i think this is as close to as a beer-version of a mimosa as you could get! used voss kviek yeast but purposefully didn't underpitch in order to minimize the ester profile from overpowering hops. Used a standard ale pitch rate but still fermented it at 95ish degrees.
Strong orange flavor with white wine. Very smooth and delicious. Get the citrus/white wine aroma that I absolutely love. Best part? When my wife taste tested this beer as a sample after the 3rd day after kegging when carbonation still wasn't there, she said - "you are going to brew this again right?" I took that reply as a "go-ahead sign that I need to buy more nelson!
lol. This is a great hop combo overall and we love it.Attachments
ryanm8
Well-Known Member
Bottled this 3 weeks ago. I used a 3:2:1 ratio of Citra / El Dorado / Galaxy.
It tastes much better now than when I took the hydrometer sample. I crashed to 50F for 2 days before dry hopping, then dry hopped at 60F for 3 days before bottling. No hop burn when using this method. I think next time I'll try the hard crash / warm dry hop / hard crash method to compare the 2.
It tastes much better now than when I took the hydrometer sample. I crashed to 50F for 2 days before dry hopping, then dry hopped at 60F for 3 days before bottling. No hop burn when using this method. I think next time I'll try the hard crash / warm dry hop / hard crash method to compare the 2.
My last NEIPA. revisited a previous recipe I brewed about 2 months ago with Citra/I7/Nelson and warrior for bitterning. On that brew I went with equal 1:1:1 ratios of citra/I7/Nelson but got more of the black tea from I7 than I was wanting. Lighting not the greatest as its not as "orange" in color as the pic suggests. This is a winner as determined by my wife!
Overall impression: i think this is as close to as a beer-version of a mimosa as you could get! used voss kviek yeast but purposefully didn't underpitch in order to minimize the ester profile from overpowering hops. Used a standard ale pitch rate but still fermented it at 95ish degrees.
Strong orange flavor with white wine. Very smooth and delicious. Get the citrus/white wine aroma that I absolutely love. Best part? When my wife taste tested this beer as a sample after the 3rd day after kegging when carbonation still wasn't there, she said - "you are going to brew this again right?" I took that reply as a "go-ahead sign that I need to buy more nelson!
If that's a pint glass you have freaky big hands
Loud Brewing
Well-Known Member
Has anyone experimented with any of the genetically engineered yeast strains out there similar to what Berkley brewing science is making?
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
It a sampler. I’m not Andre the giant lolIf that's a pint glass you have freaky big hands
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Nope. Intriguing though!
Loud Brewing
Well-Known Member
Yeah I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a few different strains and see how it goes. I will report back.
Go for it. It’s just Imperial’s version of LAIII (1318).
I already have the 1318 so will use that. Sounds like their the same then.
HopsAreGood
Well-Known Member
I’ve never heard of this but I took a look at their website it’s pretty intriguing what they’re doing...adding terpenes to the yeast to get hop like flavors and aromas. This got me googling terpenoids/terpenes and I came across all kinds of stuff.
Has anyone ever played around with adding “weed strain terpene blends” to their beer? The terpenes that make up
Cannabis and hops are very much the same and I can see some really interesting possibilities. I’m definitely a fan of getting some dank/weed character to balance out my fruity/citrusy IPAs and this seems to open up some new possibilities. Rather than just getting generic cannabis character you can choose very specific strains with very specific character, very similar to hops. There seems to be over 50 “strains” available all with slightly different profiles. Fruity, earthy, berry, sweet, etc...
It looks like the recommended usage is about .1ml to .5ml per 5 gallons, and you’d need a carrier (ever clear or something else) You simply add it into your serving keg.
Anyway, seems interesting to me but could also be a horrible idea. Anyone have any experience with this?
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
OMG, i have been hoping for some super GE yeast strains for so long! I cant wait to hear your results. what strains are you getting?
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
This reminds me of an experience I had recently. I was topping off the hydraulic fluid in my log splitter and I SWEAR I got a strong character of dank hops in the aroma (among other less pleasant aromas of course.) I wonder if the "oil" or "diesel" character of some hops is related to some petroleum compounds in the fluid? Crazy!
