New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Loud Brewing]

A dumb question but do you guys do 90min boil when using Pilsner malt for this style?

I always boil for 90min when using pils to avoid any issues with dms. Some people don't seem to taste it at 60min, but I always pick it up.

 

[Loud Brewing]

I havent had much time to post here lately due to being occupied by 2 crazy quarantined sons
It's nice to see the thread going strong and lots of great posts being contributed.
This isn't directly related to neipa, but one major improvement I have made in my setup over the last couple weeks was changing over to Eva Barrier lines and duo tight fittings. No more oxidized first pours! I highly recommend switching, it was also fairly inexpensive.

 

[flintoid]

I’m now a believer of the hard crash and no active fermentation hops. Zero hop burn out of dry hop. And at 70F DH I got great extraction out of 2019 Citra and Simcoe. This is one of the best ones I’ve done yet.

this thread has been invaluable.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I havent had much time to post here lately due to being occupied by 2 crazy quarantined sons
It's nice to see the thread going strong and lots of great posts being contributed.
This isn't directly related to neipa, but one major improvement I have made in my setup over the last couple weeks was changing over to Eva Barrier lines and duo tight fittings. No more oxidized first pours! I highly recommend switching, it was also fairly inexpensive.

In this quarantine world I sympathize with the kiddos (I have three) consuming lots of time. We are trying to make best and actually spend time with em too. Of course actual brewing is also a priority when wife and I feel like we are going nuts.

 

[ryanm8]

I just brewed a new batch after a little hiatus. Is the consensus to do a hard crash (lower temps) instead of a soft crash these days?

It looks like people are really experimenting with dry hop temps now too.

On this last batch I changed it up by crashing lower than I used to (50F) and dry hopping lower than I used to (60F instead of room temp). I tasted a sample from the hydrometer and the flavor was not as "punch you in the face" but the hop burn was drastically reduced. So we'll see how it is in the final product.

 

[HopsAreGood]

I think most people have been turning these beers around pretty quickly, including myself, and getting pretty good results. Something in the range 7-10 days fermentation, 3 days dry hop, package, carb, consume. This is fine and will produce a flavorful and drinkable beer.

But some of the best examples of the style wait significantly longer before packaging the finished product. I don’t have the links in front of me but I remember hearing Henry from monkish say that many of their beers are canned 28-35 days from brewing them. Electric brewing in California, while not as well known, are also putting out excellent NEIPAs and have said openly that they do 11 days in the fv, and then 21 days of conditioning before packaging. I’ve also seen JC from trillium post that he recommends dry hopping at 60
Degrees in a corny keg for home brewers.

Many of the so-so breweries will rush to get product out the door, and many home brewers have no patience when it comes to drinking their beloved beer.

I wouldn’t say it’s the consensus to dry hop cooler, but many people are having success getting a smoother, overall better finished beer with less hop burn doing so. I’ve played around with temps and one of the best beers I ever made was soft crashed to 58, then transferred into a purged keg with 10 ounces of dry hops waiting. I kept there at 60 degrees for three days and then transferred to a serving keg. It was a little underwhelming at first but after 7-10 days in the serving keg the hop character dramatically intensified, the beer had zero hop burn, and the aroma was very strong.

I’ve brewed upwards of 50 batches and I’ll always remember thinking how proud of that particular batch I was. The only reason I don’t follow that same process all the time is because I’m admittedly impatient. I crank batches out, drink them, and move on to the next.

But I’d definitely say slow, steady, and cool will result in the best results for crazy hoppy neipas.

My 2 cents.

 

[beervoid]

I think most people have been turning these beers around pretty quickly, including myself, and getting pretty good results. Something in the range 7-10 days fermentation, 3 days dry hop, package, carb, consume. This is fine and will produce a flavorful and drinkable beer.

But some of the best examples of the style wait significantly longer before packaging the finished product. I don’t have the links in front of me but I remember hearing Henry from monkish say that many of their beers are canned 28-35 days from brewing them. Electric brewing in California, while not as well known, are also putting out excellent NEIPAs and have said openly that they do 11 days in the fv, and then 21 days of conditioning before packaging. I’ve also seen JC from trillium post that he recommends dry hopping at 60
Degrees in a corny keg for home brewers.

Many of the so-so breweries will rush to get product out the door, and many home brewers have no patience when it comes to drinking their beloved beer.

I wouldn’t say it’s the consensus to dry hop cooler, but many people are having success getting a smoother, overall better finished beer with less hop burn doing so. I’ve played around with temps and one of the best beers I ever made was soft crashed to 58, then transferred into a purged keg with 10 ounces of dry hops waiting. I kept there at 60 degrees for three days and then transferred to a serving keg. It was a little underwhelming at first but after 7-10 days in the serving keg the hop character dramatically intensified, the beer had zero hop burn, and the aroma was very strong.

I’ve brewed upwards of 50 batches and I’ll always remember thinking how proud of that particular batch I was. The only reason I don’t follow that same process all the time is because I’m admittedly impatient. I crank batches out, drink them, and move on to the next.

But I’d definitely say slow, steady, and cool will result in the best results for crazy hoppy neipas.

My 2 cents.

So you add hops in an empty sanitized keg and purge it with co2? How many purge cycles at how many psi?

 

[HopsAreGood]

So you add hops in an empty sanitized keg and purge it with co2? How many purge cycles at how many psi?

Yes, I put the dry hops in a sanitized keg usually do 2 purges of 20-30 psi. This is just to eliminate a good amount of the oxygen but not all. I then hook up some tubing from my fermenter to the liquid in on the keg containing the dry hops, and some tubing out of the gas side down into a jug of star San. The co2 created during fermentation completely flushes the keg of all oxygen.

I don’t add any hops at all during fermentation. I then do a closed transfer into the purged keg with dry hops waiting. Soft crashing before the transfer will obviously drop a good amount of the yeast which is what many choose to do. I have done it with and without soft crashing.

 

[beervoid]

Yes, I put the dry hops in a sanitized keg usually do 2 purges of 20-30 psi. This is just to eliminate a good amount of the oxygen but not all. I then hook up some tubing from my fermenter to the liquid in on the keg containing the dry hops, and some tubing out of the gas side down into a jug of star San. The co2 created during fermentation completely flushes the keg of all oxygen.

I don’t add any hops at all during fermentation. I then do a closed transfer into the purged keg with dry hops waiting. Soft crashing before the transfer will obviously drop a good amount of the yeast which is what many choose to do. I have done it with and without soft crashing.

So the hops will sit in that keg the whole fermentation period?
How do you prevent them from blocking the liquid out once you transfer?

 

[HopsAreGood]

So the hops will sit in that keg the whole fermentation period?
How do you prevent them from blocking the liquid out once you transfer?

Yes they sit in there the whole time. I used to bag them and suspend them. Now I have a floating dip tube and transfer the liquid from the top.The hops all compact at the bottom of the keg with a decent crash prior to transferring. I can just throw them in loose.

 

[secretlevel]

I’m now a believer of the hard crash and no active fermentation hops. Zero hop burn out of dry hop. And at 70F DH I got great extraction out of 2019 Citra and Simcoe. This is one of the best ones I’ve done yet.

this thread has been invaluable.

What sort of flavors do you get out of this hop combo and how much did you use of each in the dry hop?

One of Hop Butcher's (Chicago) most popular beers is a Citra/Simcoe Double NEIPA and it has some amazing berry banana smoothie flavors with candied orange mixed in. I'm definitely ordering these hops for the next set of batches.

 

[jturman35]

This resulted in good results for me. This pic has just 2oz oh hops, they need room to expand to get good utilization. This was in the actual serving keg and the beer was excellent all the way down to the last drop, no hop particles.

 

[Dgallo]

What sort of flavors do you get out of this hop combo and how much did you use of each in the dry hop?

One of Hop Butcher's (Chicago) most popular beers is a Citra/Simcoe Double NEIPA and it has some amazing berry banana smoothie flavors with candied orange mixed in. I'm definitely ordering these hops for the next set of batches.

My guess is they are playing with some yeast blending with Belgian yeasts if you’re getting banana flavors.

 

[jturman35]

Anyone ever try crushing their dry hop pellets before tossing into the fermenter? Wondering if this would help them stay in suspension longer rather than sink like the Titanic?

 

[HopsAreGood]

Anyone ever try crushing their dry hop pellets before tossing into the fermenter? Wondering if this would help them stay in suspension longer rather than sink like the Titanic?

I’ve seen @couchsending mention doing this before. Not sure how the results were though.

 

[couchsending]

Yeah I’ve done it. Don’t remember it being appreciably different? Makes sense though especially if you have some really hard pellets. It seems like most of the really high end/oily hops tend to crumble pretty easily. Not sure if that’s due to the oil content or the hop processor is intentionally more delicate with those varieties to try to preserve certain/more aromatic properties. Pretty sure that the big guys with the big contracts can actually specify their pellet densities at certain facilities??

Recently I’ve just been letting the pellets warm up to room temp before adding them. I take them out of their original packaging and put the blend in another bag and vacuum seal them and leave out to warm up. Not 100% sure the vacuum bagging is necessary but I do it anyways. I dry hop in SS Conicals so I don’t have any way of seeing if this affects the hop material staying in suspension or not.

Anyone hear played with reusing their dry hops yet? Toying around with the idea of doing it but haven’t yet.

 

[SanPancho]

you can get a poly cap for your DH port and you can visually see whats happening. know a guy who does that after he adds DH so he can see the hops and make sure he's getting decent movement when he rouses from the cone. you can make your own if you source the poly somewhere, or find it at a local plastics shop.

think he said he paid like 10 bucks for the 3/8 poly scrap and cut it round himself. beveled the edges to fit in the clamp.

 

[VirginiaHops1]

I have one on tap now with Strata, Sabro and Chinook 2:1:1 ratio. It's got that nice fruit/dank Strata flavor but the Sabro is coming through bigtime. Definitely getting the coconut and I think even a little of the piney/cedar thing

 

[jturman35]

SanPancho I have a sight glass and last time I dropped hops in cold at 63deg they dropped like rocks in the bottom of my conical. I can’t recall but they may have been still cold from the freezer which I’m sure wouldn’t help. Going to crunch the hops up hoping they will at least float.


I’m about 6 days away from my 3oz Motueka/Sabro dry hop. Looking for big coconut and cedar!

 

[couchsending]

SanPancho I have a sight glass and last time I dropped hops in cold at 63deg they dropped like rocks in the bottom of my conical. I can’t recall but they may have been still cold from the freezer which I’m sure wouldn’t help. Going to crunch the hops up hoping they will at least float.


I’m about 6 days away from my 3oz Motueka/Sabro dry hop. Looking for big coconut and cedar!

If you want some interesting woody/vanilla/fruity notes check out HBc472. The vanilla and oak character is insane. I’ve only used it in WP but the taste it imparts is nuts.

 

[anteater8]

12.5 lb 2 row
3 lb Flaked oats
0.75 lb Wheat
0.3 lb Honey malt

0.7 oz Warrior 60 min
4 oz Mosaic whirlpool (30 min 170 degrees)
4 oz Mosaic dry hop
2 oz Amarillo dry hop
2 oz Vic Secret dry hop

Imperial Barbarian

Peach, mango, pineapple, pine and a hint of melon in the aroma. Flavor has some strong dankness upfront with more peach, mango, pineapple, pine and a bit of berry/vanilla smoothness in the background. Overall I'm enjoying this combination - it definitely has a lot going on but it works relatively well. My only complaint is that this beer took a full 4 weeks in the keg to start hitting its stride (I'm looking at you Vic Secret).

 

[anteater8]

I think most people have been turning these beers around pretty quickly, including myself, and getting pretty good results. Something in the range 7-10 days fermentation, 3 days dry hop, package, carb, consume. This is fine and will produce a flavorful and drinkable beer.

But some of the best examples of the style wait significantly longer before packaging the finished product. I don’t have the links in front of me but I remember hearing Henry from monkish say that many of their beers are canned 28-35 days from brewing them. Electric brewing in California, while not as well known, are also putting out excellent NEIPAs and have said openly that they do 11 days in the fv, and then 21 days of conditioning before packaging. I’ve also seen JC from trillium post that he recommends dry hopping at 60
Degrees in a corny keg for home brewers.

Many of the so-so breweries will rush to get product out the door, and many home brewers have no patience when it comes to drinking their beloved beer.

I wouldn’t say it’s the consensus to dry hop cooler, but many people are having success getting a smoother, overall better finished beer with less hop burn doing so. I’ve played around with temps and one of the best beers I ever made was soft crashed to 58, then transferred into a purged keg with 10 ounces of dry hops waiting. I kept there at 60 degrees for three days and then transferred to a serving keg. It was a little underwhelming at first but after 7-10 days in the serving keg the hop character dramatically intensified, the beer had zero hop burn, and the aroma was very strong.

I’ve brewed upwards of 50 batches and I’ll always remember thinking how proud of that particular batch I was. The only reason I don’t follow that same process all the time is because I’m admittedly impatient. I crank batches out, drink them, and move on to the next.

But I’d definitely say slow, steady, and cool will result in the best results for crazy hoppy neipas.

My 2 cents.

I strongly agree that this style takes time. I do primary for a minimum of 14 days and keg condition for a minimum of 14 days before drinking, often giving each step even more time. My highest scoring NIEPA was kegged for 5 weeks before bottling for competition. I would love to pump these out faster, and I feel envious of the 'grain to glass in 10 days' posts I see, but I think patience definitely pays off.

 

[tld6008]

If you are willing, I'd love to see your hop schedule, temps, and amounts. I am brewing tonight with those hops!

Exactly like this recipe although I will soft crash to drop yeast before #2 DH which starts today
https://beerandbrewing.com/weldwerks-brewing-co-juicy-bits-new-england-style-ipa/

 

[SanPancho]

But they should have floated back up after a while no? Once they started to swell and break apart. Did you rouse them? A few quick blasts at like 10-15psi. I take it for granted that the gas gets them all moving around and mixing, but a clear tc cap to see it would be kinda cool.

 

[SRJHops]

Exactly like this recipe although I will soft crash to drop yeast before #2 DH which starts today
https://beerandbrewing.com/weldwerks-brewing-co-juicy-bits-new-england-style-ipa/

You really did all those little hop amounts? Honestly, for me, I am a long way from grasping how fractional additions really matter. Maybe some day. For now, it's always in .5 ounces for staggered wp temps, or more often, full ounces.

I didn't see any wp temps in that recipe, which would have been interesting/helpful.

I also don't do fwh. I did it once and didn't notice anything. I personally think all the hops can be added after flame out.

 

[tld6008]

You really did all those little hop amounts? Honestly, for me, I am a long way from grasping how fractional additions really matter. Maybe some day. For now, it's always in .5 ounces for staggered wp temps, or more often, full ounces.

I didn't see any wp temps in that recipe, which would have been interesting/helpful.

I also don't do fwh. I did it once and didn't notice anything. I personally think all the hops can be added after flame out.

Like I said I followed the recipe. The WP is 40 min long and starts at flame out, I was at 165 at the end when I started the chiller.
Rounding it off the hops additions are 4.5 oz hot side and 5 oz DH. Took about 5 minutes to weigh and bag them

 

[nebulabrewing]

Brewed my house hazy this weekend. Hopped with Columbus, Motueka, and Mosaic.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Other Half have contributed a double recipe to the https://alltogether.beer/ relief initiative - brew it either with 10 IBU, 1318 and <300ppm Cl NEIPA style or 50 IBU, Chico and <150ppm sulphate for a West Coast version. Obviously they're not going to give away all their secrets, and it's designed to be fairly accessible for brewers and consumers alike, but it gives you an idea of how they think :

ALL TOGETHER Recipe by Other Half Brewing [email protected]

This homebrew version of our ALL TOGETHER recipe is designed for 5 gallons. You know your system best, adjust for your own efficiency.
Yeast: London Ale (NEIPA) or Chico (WCIPA)

OG 16P or 1.064 SG
FG 3.2P or 1.013 SG

Mash Temp. 154F
In Brooklyn we have a very soft, neutral water profile. For NEIPA we recommend calcium chloride additions and we aim to stay under 300ppm chloride. For WCIPA we recommend calcium sulfate and we aim to stay around 150ppm or less. You know your water best so adjust accordingly.

Grain Bill:
2-row: 10.5 lbs
Flaked Oats: 1.5 lbs
Briess Carapils: .5 lbs

Hop Schedule:
Columbus (or bittering hop of your choice) to 10 ibu @ 60 Min (NEIPA) or to 50 ibu @ 60 min (WCIPA)
Mosaic 2 oz @ Whirlpool
Cascade 1 oz @ Whirlpool
Simcoe 2 oz @ Dry Hop
Citra 2 oz @ Dry Hop
Mosaic 4 oz @ Dry Hop
Cascade 2 oz @ Dry Hop

 

[RCope]

I brewed this beer last Saturday with some adjustments to meet my system requirements. I soft crashed to 58 last night and will dry hop tomorrow. Will use cryo Citra and Mosaic to get the volume of hops a bit lower (than my dip tube). 10 oz is a large dry hop and I don't have the capability to dump...will report back in about a week .

 

[Dgallo]

Had a beer from Sloop 2 weeks ago that was Cashmere and Sabro. It was extremely good, very reminiscent of coconut/lime and peach ring gummies. I’m going to take that combo and build off it, trying to add a bit more depth and also accentuate the peach notes. Just order the ingredients so I’ll be brewing it once they come in. I will keep you posted. Here’s the plan so far;

Grains
72% - 2 row
15% - malted oats
10% - Chit malt
3% - Honey Malt

Hops(amount in descending order)
-Amarillo (pellet & cryo)
-Cashmere
-Citra (pellet & cryo)
-Sabro

Yeast
- A24 underpitching and driving the fermentation

 

[chieftain]

Yeah I’ve done it. Don’t remember it being appreciably different? Makes sense though especially if you have some really hard pellets. It seems like most of the really high end/oily hops tend to crumble pretty easily. Not sure if that’s due to the oil content or the hop processor is intentionally more delicate with those varieties to try to preserve certain/more aromatic properties. Pretty sure that the big guys with the big contracts can actually specify their pellet densities at certain facilities??

Recently I’ve just been letting the pellets warm up to room temp before adding them. I take them out of their original packaging and put the blend in another bag and vacuum seal them and leave out to warm up. Not 100% sure the vacuum bagging is necessary but I do it anyways. I dry hop in SS Conicals so I don’t have any way of seeing if this affects the hop material staying in suspension or not.

Anyone hear played with reusing their dry hops yet? Toying around with the idea of doing it but haven’t yet.

So with more time on my hands than usual, I tried a test - filled two glasses with 1.010 sugar water solution, and added Warrior hops. Glass on the left has hops warmed for 20 seconds in the microwave, glass on right were straight from the freezer. Not a big discrepancy, but it does seem like more of the freezer pellets sank immediately.

Edited to note this photo was taken about 20 minutes after adding the hops.

 

[BeerFst]

Where’s everybody picking up their cryo? Just sucking it up and paying the 5 bucks an ounce from NB or MB? I see label peelers has some deals on pounds of the less hyped hops like cascade and Loral. My only experience was with some simcoe cryo (which they also have pounds of) In a single hop I did a while back, which was positive. I’d buy at my lhbs but they don’t carry them

 

[secretlevel]

Will do. I assume that NEIPA's in kegs also change over time. My bottled NEIPA's do seem to peak after at least a few weeks of conditioning. But a lot depends on how much "hop burn" they have. My latest has very little, which I believe is due to the cold dry hop. My previous one (dry hopped warm) was pretty spicy, though I got a lot of positive feedback on it.

I find it interesting that some of my favorite commercial examples have some hop burn, while others are pretty darn smooth.

One of my favs is Ectogasm by Drekker (Fargo, ND), and it has some pretty spicy burn. Great beer though!

But I had a really smooth and tasty all-Mosaic NEIPA last night from Drastic Measures (Wadena, MN -- smack in the middle of MN).

I've been thinking about conditioning time a lot. These beers really need time to condition, and Henry from Monkish mentioned on CB&B podcast that they don't sell their IPA's until day ~30 after brewing.

Does anyone else see their hoppy beers hit their stride around 4 weeks after brewing?

 

[Sbe2]

Where’s everybody picking up their cryo? Just sucking it up and paying the 5 bucks an ounce from NB or MB? I see label peelers has some deals on pounds of the less hyped hops like cascade and Loral. My only experience was with some simcoe cryo (which they also have pounds of) In a single hop I did a while back, which was positive. I’d buy at my lhbs but they don’t carry them

I picked up a couple things from brewhardware and added four oz total of citra and mosaic cryo to my order.

 

[anteater8]

I've been thinking about conditioning time a lot. These beers really need time to condition, and Henry from Monkish mentioned on CB&B podcast that they don't sell their IPA's until day ~30 after brewing.

Does anyone else see their hoppy beers hit their stride around 4 weeks after brewing?

4 weeks is my minimum before I start to drink my NEIPA (2 weeks in the carboy, 2 in the keg), but I would say they typically peak around 4-5 weeks in the keg.

 

[jturman35]

I wouldn't consider my NEIPA's in the top tier just yet, but i completely agree about these needing more time to condition. I always wonder about the folks that are going from grain/glass in 10-14 days and wonder what the heck am i doing wrong. My last beer went 17 days in the conical before I transferred to the keg. Even then it took about 10 days in the keg to come around.

I currently have a batch that's at day 10, I just dropped the temp down to 50deg soft crash for 48 hours. Im going to add 4oz each Sabro/Motueka for 3 days before cold crashing for another 2 days. I feel like I'm rushing this beer, but this damn corona virus has knocked out my pipeline!

 

[SRJHops]

I've been thinking about conditioning time a lot. These beers really need time to condition, and Henry from Monkish mentioned on CB&B podcast that they don't sell their IPA's until day ~30 after brewing.

Does anyone else see their hoppy beers hit their stride around 4 weeks after brewing?

I think a lot depends on the amount of hops, type of hops, and dry hop timing, but mine usually hit their peak 4-5 weeks after brewing.

Interestingly, last night I found a bottle hidden in the fridge from a brew I made on January 3rd. Three months later and it has not oxidized and still tastes as good as it did back in February! If there is any advantage to bottle conditioning this style, it's that the re-fermentation (from the bottling sugar) scrubs the 02. In the case of this batch, I accidentally over-carbed it a bit, which seems to also have helped. Lots of Co2!

 

[TBryerton]

I've been thinking about conditioning time a lot. These beers really need time to condition, and Henry from Monkish mentioned on CB&B podcast that they don't sell their IPA's until day ~30 after brewing.

Does anyone else see their hoppy beers hit their stride around 4 weeks after brewing?

Yes, I agree. I’m not a fan of going grain to glass in a short amount of time. Every beer I’ve ever made only seems to get better as it sits (for a reasonable amount of time).

 

[isomerization]

Yes, I agree. I’m not a fan of going grain to glass in a short amount of time. Every beer I’ve ever made only seems to get better as it sits (for a reasonable amount of time).

Sits on the yeast cake or sits in a keg? If you can’t definitely answer one way or the other, then packaging is the way to go.

 

[TBryerton]

Sits on the yeast cake or sits in a keg? If you can’t definitely answer one way or the other, then packaging is the way to go.

Sits in the keg. I have a conical so it never sits on the yeast for extended periods of time. But overall I think not rushing any one step in the process leads to a better product.