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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I've been using a magnet to hold my dip tube above the krausen until it settles...then I let it drop.

Use the same magnet to ensure the dip tube doesn't pick up trub when racking to keg. Just need to finagle it a bit to ensure the ball (and therefore the ring which is what is actually magnetic) gets close enough to the sidewall so the magnet works.
I like this idea. Was trying to figure out how to keep the floating dip tube up until after crashing everything.
 
Switching the pace. I’ve used sabro in the whirlpool in two different beers now but not very familiar dryhoping with it. I’ve been getting a decent coconut note from 3 oz in whirlpool but wanted to hear some folks experience dryhopping with it.

To give you some background, I’m going for a beach theme NEIPA that I’m calling “Beach chairs and Sunblock” and it’s already been brewed using Columbus and sabro hotside. It’s fermenting currently using Hornindal and on 5 lbs of pineapple pure. The plan so far is to dryhop with mosaic and azacca cryo and was thinking of tossing an oz or two of sabro in as well.
In my experience 2oz of sabro will def be noticable I think its a good sweet spot to begin with if you dont want it to overpower.
I only use 1oz myself now as im not a huge fan of the coconut flavor it brings and even at that amount I can pick it out, but that's probably cause im familiar with it.
 
For those that want an out of the box option (instead of DIY Fermonster), I highly recommend the Snub Nose Fermentasaurus. 9.25 gallon and rated to 35 psi. Lid has PRV to go with both ball lock posts and floating dip tube. $130 at Northern Brewer and qualifies for free shipping/other deals they run.

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https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/fermentasaurus-snub-nose-conical-fermenter
 
In my experience 2oz of sabro will def be noticable I think its a good sweet spot to begin with if you dont want it to overpower.
I only use 1oz myself now as im not a huge fan of the coconut flavor it brings and even at that amount I can pick it out, but that's probably cause im familiar with it.

100% agree, can pick those hop up very easily even at 10-15% of hip bill and my palate blows lol. Did a 75% Sabro beer once and it tasted like a cedar chest! Could very well have been something I did or lot specific.
 
I have the same setup too now due to @Dgallo and @Loud Brewing help. The only thing I would add is that to make sure your purge keg and bucket are more or less on the same horizontal level as the fermenter. Why? When I first tried this, I had the keg and bucket on the floor and because my fermenter is elevated, it created a siphon which resulted in the siphon sucking more CO2 out of the fermenter than the yeast could produce during fermentation. I caught it in time though but you can imagine the horror on my face when I checked on it shortly after hookup and saw my fermonster looking more like an hour glass instead of a cylinder - I created a vacuum! lol. Ever since, I have them at same height like in the picture. :)

Any issues with the ball lock / lid leaking when CO2 pressure is applied? Wondering what the trick is to get these sealed. At one point one leaked and the other didn't, then I adjusted and for one water test I had them both sealed, but a week later when I had fermenting wort and I had to apply pressure for cold crash they leaked.
 
Any issues with the ball lock / lid leaking when CO2 pressure is applied? Wondering what the trick is to get these sealed. At one point one leaked and the other didn't, then I adjusted and for one water test I had them both sealed, but a week later when I had fermenting wort and I had to apply pressure for cold crash they leaked.
Two things that helped me are; I replaced the black oring in the lid and have purchased the lid wrench so I can tighten it well

*edit* I also added gaskets on each post on the underside of the lid
 
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Took my first sample after first dry hop of 3.5oz galaxy and .5oz Sabro. This is pre crash so there is still some hop burn and yeast messing with aroma, there is definitely a background tropical thing going on that i dont think is from the galaxy.

I've had two Sabro beers, one from Weldwerks last year that was super coconut without any actual coconut added and another from Trillium that was Sabro and Citra (i think) where the coconut was completely absent

More updates to come. I will be crashing tonight, transferring this weekend. keg hopping with the same mix for a total of 12.5% Sabro. if i dont get the coconut i'll add a bit more, but i plan to wait until its fully carbed which won't be til next week sometime.
 
I use my cbd in my fermenter for one main reason....to be able to close transfer from the fermenter to the serving keg with little to no trub or hop debris

Do you use the optional dry hop screen that fits around the CBD when you use it in the fermenter? Usually, I use the Janish screen in the fermenter and have been thinking of trying my CBD in the fermenter to compare, but wondering whether the screen would be likely to clog or how much it would actually help with keeping hop debris out of the serving keg.
 
Hey fellas,
I usually give my beers a bump of direct O2 before adding yeast. Seems to me that in this style that could be detrimental. The hop compounds that carry over from the kettle are exposed to the O2 could lead to early oxidation. Anybody have experience with O2 supplementation or opinions on the matter? One option could be to wait for about 12 hours or so until the yeast enter log phase then give them the O2, but even then, the dissolved oxygen could be more trouble than it's worth.
Cheers!
 
Dgallo I did my last batch with 2oz total Sabro however I’m thinking my dry hop addition at 60deg the hops floated straight to the bottom of my conical. I could see them in my sight glass. The beer had really good flavor and bitterness was perfect with smooth mouthfeel however aroma was extremely muted. My next attempt will likely use 3oz Sabro as I feel like something in my process caused the issue. This was my first attempt at a soft crash and throwing 6oz of dry hop at once.

I literally just kicked the keg and when I popped the lid there was massive amount of trub sediment covering the pickup tube, way more than previous batches. I assume this greatly affects the aroma???

1/2 warrior @ 60min
1oz Simcoe @ 10min

2oz Simcoe whirlpool
1oz Motueka whirlpool
1oz Sabro whirlpool

3oz Motueka dry hop 24hr
2oz Simcoe dry hop 24hr
1oz Sabro dry hop 24hr

This sounds great. Do you (or anyone) have more experience using Moteuka? I've had 8 oz sitting around forever and I haven't felt super stoked to use it. The only time I put Motueka in a NEIPA with along with Columbus, Azacca and Simcoe which worked really well but I couldn't pick out the Motueka influence. I'm thinking 50/50 Motueka/Citra is probably a good place to start.
 
This sounds great. Do you (or anyone) have more experience using Moteuka? I've had 8 oz sitting around forever and I haven't felt super stoked to use it. The only time I put Motueka in a NEIPA with along with Columbus, Azacca and Simcoe which worked really well but I couldn't pick out the Motueka influence. I'm thinking 50/50 Motueka/Citra is probably a good place to start.
It’s my experience that Motueka is very delicate and you have to crush it to have it stand out. I would def suggest using it for at least 60% of the hop total
 
Can I get some insight on Dry Hopping techniques? In past I haven't had too many oxidation issues, but reading today's comments I'm getting a bit worried: I ferment in a bucket and just cracked the lid to add first dry hop on day 3. The plan is to ferment a few more days, then soft crash on day 8 to 57F, and then add the dry hop #2 on Day 9.
Would I be better off minimizing oxidation and kegging the beer before the second dry hop? This way I could at least purge any O2 that gets in...

Edit: I use the spigot to rack the beer into keg.

My system requires me to crack the lid to dry hop three days before kegging. I bought a can of Argon (marketed as a wine saver) and pump that in after I dryhop. So far it has worked for me.

I should mention that I also use a CO2 trap, so O2 entry during soft crash is limited.
 
Has anyone played with conditioning temperatures?

In my experience new england ipa's tend to need a bit of time to come together.
It can take up to 2 to 3 weeks for the fruity flavors to "pop".
I have experienced that colder dry hopping might lengthen this process and it got me thinking.
Perhaps conditioning the neipa at a higher temp after taking it off the hops and carbing might speed up this process.
The spreadsheet of cloudwater floating around shows a conditioning temp of 12c if I remember correctly.
It also makes sense that conditioning too cold could possible drop out flavors as well.
 
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Has anyone played with conditioning temperatures?

In my experience new england ipa's tend to need a bit of time to come together.
It can take up to 2 to 3 weeks for the fruity flavors to "pop".
I have experienced that colder dry hopping might lengthen this process and it got me thinking.
Perhaps conditioning the neipa at a higher temp after taking it off the hops and carbing might speed up this process.
The spreadsheet of cloudwater floating around shows a conditioning temp of 12c if I remember correctly.
It also makes sense that conditioning too cold could possible drop out flavors as well.

I've noticed that around the 2nd week or so, mine really shine. I just "cold" dry hopped at 55 degree's with simcoe and I don't know if it's because of the temp...however I'm having the hardest time picking up on simcoe at all. However, it's my first time dry hopping with simcoe in the past couple of years so I don't have a baseline with that particular hop.
 
I've noticed that around the 2nd week or so, mine really shine. I just "cold" dry hopped at 55 degree's with simcoe and I don't know if it's because of the temp...however I'm having the hardest time picking up on simcoe at all. However, it's my first time dry hopping with simcoe in the past couple of years so I don't have a baseline with that particular hop.
I experimented with simcoe a few times and really didnt get any fruit out of it(more pinel.
I suspect the fruity simcoe hopped beers might be handselected versions that are more fruitforward.
I will test some cryo to see if I can squeeze fruit of simcoe.
 
I've noticed that around the 2nd week or so, mine really shine. I just "cold" dry hopped at 55 degree's with simcoe and I don't know if it's because of the temp...however I'm having the hardest time picking up on simcoe at all. However, it's my first time dry hopping with simcoe in the past couple of years so I don't have a baseline with that particular hop.

I tired to cold dry hop with 2oz pellets and 1 cryo simcoe in 4.5 gallons at 58 and it was completely unnoticeable. This was last fall and my first foray with cold dry hopping. I ordered some more on amazon to rescue it (gotta admit, though I mostly buy from YVH, the artisan hops brand, while more $ than YVH has provided me stellar hops each time I’ve ordered). Anyway I tossed another 3oz pellets and let the keg rise to room temp (65ish) for 3 days and man what a difference. Fruity and slightly piney. That was also the last time I’ll dry hop cold. I still soft crash to 58 or so theN Let it rise to 65 for 3 days, then crash again. It wasn’t intentionally hazy (grain was from the more beer single hop series, just 2 row, some c20 and carapils I think) but A15 Plus all that dry hop was decently hazy.
 
I experimented with simcoe a few times and really didnt get any fruit out of it(more pinel.
I suspect the fruity simcoe hopped beers might be handselected versions that are more fruitforward.
I will test some cryo to see if I can squeeze fruit of simcoe.
It’s absolute about being hand selected. Equilibrium and Grimm get simcoe from the same farm and they get pure orange sherbet. Grimm also gets hand selected centennial that’s cones off as candied citrus fruit.
 
One of my favorites from Other Half is an all Simcoe. Pineapple and orange sherbert. Hand selected hops, but damn, it’s a decent hop that’s kinda been left in the dust b/c of the other fruit flavored ones.

I was able to get some of those flavors with mine, probably because of the cryo dry hop. Nowhere near the pros though.
 
Well crap! This morning when I went to add my day 12 dry hops fermentation kicked back off! Never had it try and crawl out of the fermenter when adding the hops. Should I wait? Worried it’s gonna blow if I add dry hops. I did a 24hr soft crash down to 58 then slowly warmed back up to 70 so the hops would not fall to the bottom. Any suggestions?
 
It’s absolute about being hand selected. Equilibrium and Grimm get simcoe from the same farm and they get pure orange sherbet. Grimm also gets hand selected centennial that’s cones off as candied citrus fruit.
Do you happen to know which farm?
 
Do you happen to know which farm?
I do not. It was at a beer event and their rep was talking to us about it. Grimm is pretty open about things and they list farms from time to time in their beer discriminations so I’ll check through to see if I can find it
 
Well crap! This morning when I went to add my day 12 dry hops fermentation kicked back off! Never had it try and crawl out of the fermenter when adding the hops. Should I wait? Worried it’s gonna blow if I add dry hops. I did a 24hr soft crash down to 58 then slowly warmed back up to 70 so the hops would not fall to the bottom. Any suggestions?
Could just be co2 escaping the beer/trub as the beer warms
 
No, Co2 just bubbles straight up. It’s definitely fermenting and swirling up and down. Prior to attempting to add dry hops I dumped as much trub as possible so I’m guessing between that and warming up it kicked back off.

My question is should I attempt to add the hops? There is foam trying to come up through the co2 port. I have a Spike conical so that’s about 2 gallons of headspace of foam. I’m worried it’s going to foam over if I add hops.
 
I have Simcoe from quite a few different sources at the moment, some hand selected (not by me), some from YCH, some from Farmhouse... they’re all very different. When they’re picked and where they’re grown have a huge impact on them. I’ve also been told it’s the hardest hop to select and can change quite a bit with age. Know a brewery that won’t use theirs for up to 6 months after they get it.

I believe their are optimum dry hopping temps for certain hops. Some are colder, some are warmer. And it depends what you’re trying to get out of the hop. In my experience I’ve had better luck pulling out cleaner fruitiness from Galaxy and Mosaic at temps lower than 60. Less of the sweaty dank aromas at lower temps. Lower temps will also take more time.
 
I literally just dropped second dry hop addition 2oz each Simcoe/Amarillo. This time i allowed the actual hops warm up rather than throw them in straight from the freezer. Last time i did that they went straight to the bottom of the conical. My beer temp was about 69deg so i dropped it down to 65 and will prob start to lower 2-3 degrees for the next 3 days.

I'm also going to keg hop with an oz each except Amarillo cryo. Will report back in a week or so!
 
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