While I have never intentionally tried to increase trub into the fermenter, Ive gone from "it doesn't matter" to "I want to get as little trub as possible into the fermenter". For context, Im using the tall/narrow 10.5gal foundry where there is really nowhere for any loose hops/hotbreak/coldbreak to go where the kettle outlet doesn't suck it into the fermenter. Whirlpooling may create a trub cone initially but when the wort gets down to near the bottom it collapses onto the dip tube quickly. Early on, I simply pumped all that was needed into the fermenter immediately after chilling and ended up with anywhere from 0.5-0.75gal of trub into the fermenter (measured after it all settled and compacted). The beers were good, no BIG off flavors that my novice palate could detect. But especially with big oat DIPAs with ~50% oats/wheat/etc, this trub was excessive to the point that I wasn't even getting a full keg full at kegging time - super pissed when that happens given all the hard work! So I started letting my kettle settle everything out by simply waiting after chilling before pumping into the fermenter and now I'm under a quart (at most) of trub into the fermenter. By letting everything settle most all of my wort to the fermenter is VERY clean/clear looking. So this has helped tremendously with losses going to the keg. Also as an unanticipated effect, my fermentations are actually more vigorous to the point I need blow offs more often than not, but Ive also noticed that my foam on the finished beer is better/fantastic with solid head retention. So that's where Im at now from what I can see as benefits at minimizing true into the fermenter. Im not afraid of SOME trub, but minimizing it gives me the best results I can perceive thus far.
I've mostly used A24 dry hop as my yeast of choice and have been using it when I was getting a good bit of trub into the fermenter and since Ive tried to minimize trub. Haven't noticed a difference in attenuation either way and I typically get ~78-82% AA no matter what. SO I don't think this particular yeast blend gets stifled by trub. Its a beast. After fermentation is over and I soft crash, I always can see the banding pattern at the bottom of my fermonster with trub on bottom followed by yeast on top. Then after dry hopping and cold crashing, the dy hops settle on top fo the bright colored yeast.
I will add that If a beer clears more, that body will certainly change. Also adding trub in the fermenter will certainly have an negative impact on head retention and will increase the risk of hopburn. Will a beer still be good if you transfer trub yes, but I stand firm on this one that you can’t produce the best beer possible if you transfer excess trub in the fv.
How’s your sterilization and speed of cooling? You could always rack it from the kettle to your fv. Then crash it to 50 let the trub settle and dump it. Then pitch your yeast and let it warm back up to temp, preferably at a healthy cell count and while active.
If you can cool your wort that quickly to 50, then you should be having no issue leaving trub behind. If you are still transferring too much trub for your liking, The only thing I would suggest us to plan for another 0.25-0.5 gallons for loss in you recipe and you should be golden
Lallemand New England is supposedly LA3. It appears the cell count per packet is abysmal though. 1/5 the amount thats in a regular packet.
I use whirlfloc, gelatin, all the stuff you'd use in a clear beer. Just because its hazy, it isn't an excuse for leaving yeast and unneeded proteins in suspension. Plus (at least gelatin) this stuff will help with hop burn.
Never heard of it other than knowing its some enzyme lol. Got a link?
Ah yeah that’s right. Just knew there was another dry strain out there that wasn’t mentioned. Haven’t personally used it due to that horrendous cell count.
I tried it. Got a fantastic beer. But it is not suitable for a NEIPA. I will recommend it for Pale Ale and West Coast. I didn't noticed any effect from the enzymes.
