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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Can I get some insight on Dry Hopping techniques? In past I haven't had too many oxidation issues, but reading today's comments I'm getting a bit worried: I ferment in a bucket and just cracked the lid to add first dry hop on day 3. The plan is to ferment a few more days, then soft crash on day 8 to 57F, and then add the dry hop #2 on Day 9.
Would I be better off minimizing oxidation and kegging the beer before the second dry hop? This way I could at least purge any O2 that gets in...

Edit: I use the spigot to rack the beer into keg.
 
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Can I get some advice on Dry Hopping techniques? In past I haven't had too many oxidation issues, but reading today's comments I'm getting a bit worried: I ferment in a bucket and just cracked the lid to add first dry hop on day 3. The plan is to ferment a few more days, then soft crash on day 8 to 57F, and then add the dry hop #2 on Day 9.
Would I be better off minimizing oxidation and kegging the beer before the second dry hop? This way I could at least purge any O2 that gets in...

I would think so. But it's hard to rack into a keg pressurized (at least somewhat) with C02. I do keg-to-keg transfers. And I highly suggest doing a fermentation vessel you can pressurize. There are some instructions on this thread about using fermonsters with CBD systems (floating dip tubes). I did that- added ball locks to my fermonster lid, and the quality of my NEIPAs have been resoundingly good. Purged kegs and a self purging fermonster with a adjustable valve on the gas ball lock tower keeps all the 02 away.

With gravity transfers (I was using a fastferment conical) it still allowed 02 exposure sometimes. I always had a degree of oxidation even when I purged things as best as I could.
 
Can I get some insight on Dry Hopping techniques? In past I haven't had too many oxidation issues, but reading today's comments I'm getting a bit worried: I ferment in a bucket and just cracked the lid to add first dry hop on day 3. The plan is to ferment a few more days, then soft crash on day 8 to 57F, and then add the dry hop #2 on Day 9.
Would I be better off minimizing oxidation and kegging the beer before the second dry hop? This way I could at least purge any O2 that gets in...

Edit: I use the spigot to rack the beer into keg.
I agree with what @flintoid stated in response to your post. I would add that if you aren't certain you can minimize oxygen when you soft crash, then I would recommend against it. I don't use a bucket like you, but when soft crashing from fermentation temps to any temp in the 50s, the fermentation vessel will need to suck in air as the temperature drops. So if you don't have a way to pump in CO2 (instead of air) when soft crashing, I think you might do more harm than good. I use a modified fermonster setup with ball-locks on the lid like lots here use. When soft crashing, Ive noticed that the suck back is actually pretty substantial, but in my case Im pumping CO2 into it and the pressure inside the fermonster maintains 2-3 PSI.
 
What’s the benefit of the floating dip tube in the fermenter? I have a Spike conical and not sure how a floating dip tube would help?
 
What’s the benefit of the floating dip tube in the fermenter? I have a Spike conical and not sure how a floating dip tube would help?
I use my cbd in my fermenter for one main reason....to be able to close transfer from the fermenter to the serving keg with little to no trub or hop debris
 
What’s the benefit of the floating dip tube in the fermenter? I have a Spike conical and not sure how a floating dip tube would help?
Agreed with @Dgallo on this. With fermonster type setups we can't dump yeast/trub prior to racking. So as long as I get a solid cold crash to 38ish degrees to make a pancake out of the trub and dry hops, the floating dip tube draws from the top and doesn't pull from the trub/yeast/dryhops at the bottom. Works well.
 
I have a couple of questions for those using Fermonsters.
1. Do you start your fermentation with the floating dip tube installed or do you have a different cap that you start with and add your floating dip tube cap later?
2. What is the best method, or process to add dry hops without introducing oxygen? Or should I say introducing as little oxygen as possible?
I have the Fermonster with floating dip tube and I am concerned that the tube will get clogged with hops if I have it installed while dry hopping. I feel like I need to add it after I have cold crashed and dropped the majority of the hops.
 
I have a couple of questions for those using Fermonsters.
1. Do you start your fermentation with the floating dip tube installed or do you have a different cap that you start with and add your floating dip tube cap later?
2. What is the best method, or process to add dry hops without introducing oxygen? Or should I say introducing as little oxygen as possible?
I have the Fermonster with floating dip tube and I am concerned that the tube will get clogged with hops if I have it installed while dry hopping. I feel like I need to add it after I have cold crashed and dropped the majority of the hops.
1. Yes, I start with the floating dip tube/cap setup and have never had a clog. Be sure to cold crash before transferring to keg.
2. Most of us hook up the co2 to the dip tube side post and add a couple psi, then crack open the lid and quickly dryhop, then replace lid. Turn off gas and bleed excess co2 by cracking lid again (or you can add a PRV to your lid). You can dryhop under pressure but I find that it pushes my hops to the bottom.
3. If you do encounter a clog in the dip tube simply hook up your gas to the diptube side and blow it out with a few psi.
 
I haven’t seen any literature that states that proteins will extract polyphenols at a higher rate, however I have seen numerous studies that prove that during fermentation, yeast will bind polyphenols and proteins together, causing these bound compounds to stay in suspension longer, which inadvertently causes greater and longer lasting hopburn.

That’s why many hbers and commercial brewers have stoped or greatly reduced the amount of dryhops being added during active fermentation
Any chance you remember which studies? Would like to read up on that.
Thanks
 
A little off topic but this is just too comical not to share. A local brewery in Boston, Aeronaut, who has been around long enough to know better, attempted maybe their 4th NEIPA: Imperial Galaxyc Cirrocumulus. And their story about the color is this: “it eventually settles. We used a special grain to get the darker colors.”

I do believe this is code for “oxidized.” This should make us all feel great about O2 management. It tasted like pure disappointment.

Aeronaut turns out some tasty stuff, but I've seen some bad oxidation with another one of their beers before - King Louie. It was a drain pour at $18/4 pack. Can't believe they tried to play it off this way.
 
1. Yes, I start with the floating dip tube/cap setup and have never had a clog. Be sure to cold crash before transferring to keg.
2. Most of us hook up the co2 to the dip tube side post and add a couple psi, then crack open the lid and quickly dryhop, then replace lid. Turn off gas and bleed excess co2 by cracking lid again (or you can add a PRV to your lid). You can dryhop under pressure but I find that it pushes my hops to the bottom.
3. If you do encounter a clog in the dip tube simply hook up your gas to the diptube side and blow it out with a few psi.
Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?
 
Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?
You’re going to love the set up @Loud Brewing has for the blow off. I use the same as he does but I’ll let him explain it!
 
Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?

There are lots of options for the blowoff side. You can do something as simple as a ball lock disconnect with a short piece of tubing and a conventional airlock, or just a blowoff tube into water/starsan bottle like you mentioned. Another option is a spunding valve or one-way etc.

However most of us like to harvest the c02 produced from fermentation in order to purge another keg or similar vessel (balloon for cold crashing etc). Simply fill a keg with sanitizer and attach the blowoff tube from the fermenter to the IN side of the keg. Then attach a tube to the OUT side of the keg and jump it to another keg or you can just use a bucket to collect the sanitizer. A healthy fermentation will produce enough co2 to fully purge your keg which will save you time and money when it comes to packaging day.
 
Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?
I have the same setup too now due to @Dgallo and @Loud Brewing help. The only thing I would add is that to make sure your purge keg and bucket are more or less on the same horizontal level as the fermenter. Why? When I first tried this, I had the keg and bucket on the floor and because my fermenter is elevated, it created a siphon which resulted in the siphon sucking more CO2 out of the fermenter than the yeast could produce during fermentation. I caught it in time though but you can imagine the horror on my face when I checked on it shortly after hookup and saw my fermonster looking more like an hour glass instead of a cylinder - I created a vacuum! lol. Ever since, I have them at same height like in the picture. :)
 

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Switching the pace. I’ve used sabro in the whirlpool in two different beers now but not very familiar dryhoping with it. I’ve been getting a decent coconut note from 3 oz in whirlpool but wanted to hear some folks experience dryhopping with it.

To give you some background, I’m going for a beach theme NEIPA that I’m calling “Beach chairs and Sunblock” and it’s already been brewed using Columbus and sabro hotside. It’s fermenting currently using Hornindal and on 5 lbs of pineapple pure. The plan so far is to dryhop with mosaic and azacca cryo and was thinking of tossing an oz or two of sabro in as well.
 
a friend of mine used to ferment in buckets. his first super hoppy ipa that he cold crashed came out looking like a brown ale and borderline light stout. i wouldn't recommend cold crashing. soft crashing, maybe, but i'd be worried honestly. use kegs or a glass carboy or something else that you can seal well if you want to soft/cold crash

Can I get some insight on Dry Hopping techniques? In past I haven't had too many oxidation issues, but reading today's comments I'm getting a bit worried: I ferment in a bucket and just cracked the lid to add first dry hop on day 3. The plan is to ferment a few more days, then soft crash on day 8 to 57F, and then add the dry hop #2 on Day 9.
Would I be better off minimizing oxidation and kegging the beer before the second dry hop? This way I could at least purge any O2 that gets in...

Edit: I use the spigot to rack the beer into keg.
 
a friend of mine used to ferment in buckets. his first super hoppy ipa that he cold crashed came out looking like a brown ale and borderline light stout. i wouldn't recommend cold crashing. soft crashing, maybe, but i'd be worried honestly. use kegs or a glass carboy or something else that you can seal well if you want to soft/cold crash

Thanks, I appreciate the response. I haven't struggled too much with oxidation and cold crashing in buckets before - I'm just making myself nervous I think...
 
Switching the pace. I’ve used sabro in the whirlpool in two different beers now but not very familiar dryhoping with it. I’ve been getting a decent coconut note from 3 oz in whirlpool but wanted to hear some folks experience dryhopping with it.

To give you some background, I’m going for a beach theme NEIPA that I’m calling “Beach chairs and Sunblock” and it’s already been brewed using Columbus and sabro hotside. It’s fermenting currently using Hornindal and on 5 lbs of pineapple pure. The plan so far is to dryhop with mosaic and azacca cryo and was thinking of tossing an oz or two of sabro in as well.

I guess this depends on how much of the coconut you want to come through. Ive never brewed with sabro myself though but from what I understand it can be overpowering. Ive only had two sabro beers (1 mass commercial and the other from a local brewery). Both were decent and I respected it, but....I don't like coconut lol. So, depending on how much flavor from the hot side comes through, Id just be worried that the coconut would overshadow the pineapple and other dry hops. How much sabro did you use on the hot side and how did it taste prior to dry hopping if you tasted it?

OK, I just reread your post - 3oz in whirlpool with already a decent coconut note.
 
Great information. Thank you for the quick response.
What do you use for an airlock or blow off with this type of set up?
All I currently have is the gas in and liquid out ball lock fittings on my lid.
Do you run a hose off the gas fitting into a container of star san, or?
I've been using a magnet to hold my dip tube above the krausen until it settles...then I let it drop.

Use the same magnet to ensure the dip tube doesn't pick up trub when racking to keg. Just need to finagle it a bit to ensure the ball (and therefore the ring which is what is actually magnetic) gets close enough to the sidewall so the magnet works.
 
I've been using a magnet to hold my dip tube above the krausen until it settles...then I let it drop.

Use the same magnet to ensure the dip tube doesn't pick up trub when racking to keg. Just need to finagle it a bit to ensure the ball (and therefore the ring which is what is actually magnetic) gets close enough to the sidewall so the magnet works.

Strange...isn't that set up supposed to be stainless? True stainless isn't magnetic.
 
Dgallo I did my last batch with 2oz total Sabro however I’m thinking my dry hop addition at 60deg the hops floated straight to the bottom of my conical. I could see them in my sight glass. The beer had really good flavor and bitterness was perfect with smooth mouthfeel however aroma was extremely muted. My next attempt will likely use 3oz Sabro as I feel like something in my process caused the issue. This was my first attempt at a soft crash and throwing 6oz of dry hop at once.

I literally just kicked the keg and when I popped the lid there was massive amount of trub sediment covering the pickup tube, way more than previous batches. I assume this greatly affects the aroma???

1/2 warrior @ 60min
1oz Simcoe @ 10min

2oz Simcoe whirlpool
1oz Motueka whirlpool
1oz Sabro whirlpool

3oz Motueka dry hop 24hr
2oz Simcoe dry hop 24hr
1oz Sabro dry hop 24hr
 
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