New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Taket_al_Tauro]

Probably for most yeah. Any people here liking high sulfate in their neipa?
I really like the effect myself to give it another character. It doesnt necessarily transform it towards a westcoast ipa imho.

What do you mean with high sulfate in this NEIPA context? More like 150ish or north of 200?

 

[beervoid]

What do you mean with high sulfate in this NEIPA context? More like 150ish or north of 200?

Yes 150 to 200 or so

 

[Genuine]

I've kept my Sulfate in the 50ppm range however I've been thinking of doing closer to 75-100ppm

 

[beervoid]

I've kept my Sulfate in the 50ppm range however I've been thinking of doing closer to 75-100ppm

When using high"er" chloride.
Above 100 is where I started noticing differences

 

[mjjunior10]

Are you guys dividing the minerals? using part of the salts in the mash and the other part into boil? By convenience I frequently adjust (ph and salts) whole strike water... but I do think that I can get a diference (for better) in my beers when I use partial additions.

 

[jturman35]

I can tell a difference in roundness when I go north of 150ppm cholride. I haven’t gone as high as 200ppm yet. I’m still trying to figure out where to put my sulfate, I usually keep sulfate around 80-125ppm.

 

[tld6008]

Deleted

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Are you guys dividing the minerals? using part of the salts in the mash and the other part into boil? By convenience I frequently adjust (ph and salts) whole strike water... but I do think that I can get a diference (for better) in my beers when I use partial additions.

Yes, I use beersmith to partition the salts into mash and boil additions. But currently I add the mash salts in the middle of doughing in and I don’t adjust ph until about 5-10minutes after complete dough in. so I don’t treat Ph on the mash water prior to dough in because I don’t yet trust the beersmith lactic acid recommended additions. I’ve only brewed three beers total, on first brew I forgot to add mash salts (despite having them measured and ready on my brew table lol) and when I tested the Ph after mashing in it was about 5.5-5.6 ish (don’t have exact notes in front of me). So I added lactic acid to adjust to get it under 5.4. Last two brews I did, when I added mash salts as I described here, when I tested Ph, the Ph was under 5.4 (more around 5.30-5.35ish) so no lactic acid adjustments were needed

 

[mjjunior10]

Yes, I use beersmith to partition the salts into mash and boil additions. But currently I add the mash salts in the middle of doughing in and I don’t adjust ph until about 5-10minutes after complete dough in. so I don’t treat Ph on the mash water prior to dough in because I don’t yet trust the beersmith lactic acid recommended additions. I’ve only brewed three beers total, on first brew I forgot to add mash salts (despite having them measured and ready on my brew table lol) and when I tested the Ph after mashing in it was about 5.5-5.6 ish (don’t have exact notes in front of me). So I added lactic acid to adjust to get it under 5.4. Last two brews I did, when I added mash salts as I described here, when I tested Ph, the Ph was under 5.4 (more around 5.30-5.35ish) so no lactic acid adjustments were needed

I down ph water to around 5 and also add all salts. If necessary I will add more acid to the mash.

 

[brew703]

I read somewhere that Treehouse uses the following:
Ca 15 / Mg 25 / Na 75 / CI 120 / So4 140

I have not tried this yet but may do so on my next NEIPA brew.

 

[tld6008]

I read somewhere that Treehouse uses the following:
Ca 15 / Mg 25 / Na 75 / CI 120 / So4 140

I have not tried this yet but may do so on my next NEIPA brew.

Getting to 15 on Ca will be difficult

 

[Dgallo]

I read somewhere that Treehouse uses the following:
Ca 15 / Mg 25 / Na 75 / CI 120 / So4 140

I have not tried this yet but may do so on my next NEIPA brew.

Can’t imagine that’s true. I do believe that they don’t follow the 2:1 ratio that some folks think is gospel. It’s hard to imagine they only adjusting with gypsum and table salt, which would be the only possibility to hit those numbers.

 

[SRJHops]

I read somewhere that Treehouse uses the following:
Ca 15 / Mg 25 / Na 75 / CI 120 / So4 140

I have not tried this yet but may do so on my next NEIPA brew.

For those who have tried their beers, does this ring true for the mouthfeel? Certainly there is no need for a soft mouthfeel, but in my personal brewing experience, that ratio is not likely to result in a soft mouthfeel. I am drinking my latest as I type, which I upped to 3:1 (159 CL, 52 So4) and I am finally starting to get some real softness... I am going to try 4:1 for my next brew, though I think 3:1 is going to be the winner.

 

[marchuk96]

I use this from Brulosophy and it works very well.

Water Profile: Ca 117 | Mg 3 | Na 10 | SO4 84 | Cl 168

I am also pretty close to what @DrGMG is using...here is mine..

Water Profile: Ca 117/ Mg 8/ Na 0/ So4 105/ CL 152

I have used this on almost all my NEIPA with great results...I do an addition in mash water and then another in sparge water...I actually stumbled across an article that stated that a local brewery near me (Sloop).....who produces some great NEIPA was using .5 grams/gal. of Gypsum and .9g/gal. of calcium chloride ratio...so I did exactly that and it gives you the numbers you see above with my grain bill for a 5.5 gallon batch minus the magnesium which is from Epsom salt...I haven't really strayed from this since I read it and as I said it has really worked well for me...id highly reccomend trying it and for me personally i don't see any reason to change it cause if it ain't broke...don't fix it[emoji482]

 

[DrGMG]

Preach! Kegging this beauty right now.

 

[jturman35]

I haven’t used canning salt yet to increase sodium. Do you guys feel staying under 60ppm Na really helps for this style?

 

[z-bob]

Another thing to keep in mind is that not every yeast does bio and even then, not every hop has the ingredients for it either.

What are some yeasts (besides Conan) that do? I've never paid much attention to this style of beer, but I have over 20 years worth of hops in my freezer right now for the types of beers I usually brew; I need to do something different to use some up. I have a pound of Centennial and half pound of Columbus hops (and lots of others) and I'm pretty sure those 2 are both very good ones for biotransformation.

What about Bell's yeast? Or Voss Kveik?

 

[DrGMG]

What are some yeasts (besides Conan) that do? I've never paid much attention to this style of beer, but I have over 20 years worth of hops in my freezer right now for the types of beers I usually brew; I need to do something different to use some up. I have a pound of Centennial and half pound of Columbus hops (and lots of others) and I'm pretty sure those 2 are both very good ones for biotransformation.

What about Bell's yeast? Or Voss Kveik?

The only one I know for sure is 1318 and citra.

 

[Dgallo]

I haven’t used canning salt yet to increase sodium. Do you guys feel staying under 60ppm Na really helps for this style?

You can push it to 80 easily without negative result.

I have decent tap water for brewing and I adjust to Ca:103 Mg:14 Na:76 Cl:152 So4:105. This is what I’m the most happy with.

A lot more goes into mouthfeel then just water profile. Hops used and oil content, yeast strain, carb level, mash temp, quality of wort making it into the fermented, grain Billl, and final gravity. I personally think water profile is more fine tuning where the other have a much bigger overall impact on it

 

[marchuk96]

What are some yeasts (besides Conan) that do? I've never paid much attention to this style of beer, but I have over 20 years worth of hops in my freezer right now for the types of beers I usually brew; I need to do something different to use some up. I have a pound of Centennial and half pound of Columbus hops (and lots of others) and I'm pretty sure those 2 are both very good ones for biotransformation.

What about Bell's yeast? Or Voss Kveik?

Here are 3 from Lallemand...Bry-97/Belle Saison/New England...and then a yeast comparison chart which could potentially mean that the sub's for the Lallemand yeasts could also be able to bio transform...this is assuming they are essentialy the same yeast just a different brand and Im going off of pure speculation...


https://brewstock.com/charts-and-tools/beer-yeast-comparison-chart/

 

[jturman35]

You can push it to 80 easily without negative result.

I have decent tap water for brewing and I adjust to Ca:103 Mg:14 Na:76 Cl:152 So4:105. This is what I’m the most happy with.

A lot more goes into mouthfeel then just water profile. Hops used and oil content, yeast strain, carb level, mash temp, quality of wort making it into the fermented, grain Billl, and final gravity. I personally think water profile is more fine tuning where the other have a much bigger overall impact on it

What FG are you aiming for? I usually land around 1.018-1.020 which seems to be working for my beers lately. I have also settled on 8oz honey malt. Next batch I’m trying 2lbs white wheat instead of 1lb flaked wheat. I usually just add 1lb each of flaked wheat/oats. I think my grain bill is slowly getting dialed in, but tricky part seems to be the hop oils.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Looking for a little more long lasting aroma "pop"!

Context: I'm a brand new brewer and Ive now kegged two beers, both NEIPAs: First one was Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy, Second one was Citra/Mosaic/Idaho7. Both have identical grain bills and both have 12.50oz of hops (5 gal finished batch, - 6gal in fermenter when dry hopping). 6.5oz hot side: .5oz first wort hop, 3oz in 5min boil, 3oz whirlpool. 6.0 cold side: (all after fermentation completed and after soft crashing and raising temp back to 68 degrees for dry hopping). 3oz dry hop at 3 days prior to kegging and another 3 oz 48hrs prior to kegging. Both beers were extremely smooth with zero harshness when kegging. Both had great aroma at kegging, although I personally liked the galaxy one better as it was more fruitier than the second which had more pine (which I still liked a lot).

Given my DH temps (68 degrees) and my dry hop rates (2 quick doses of 3oz each), anyone have any suggestions on how to maintain or enhance the aroma "pop"? FWIW, my first beer was kegged on 1/25 and while the aroma is still good, I now have to swirl it in glass to get that similar aroma pop I got when I kegged it. Ive noticed the flavor has enhanced on the first beer with almost a week of keg conditioning (too soon to tell on second beer as I just kegged it on saturday), but the aroma seems to have lost some of that pop. Wondering if the warm DH temps helps create the nice aroma initially but a more "fragile" aroma with lesser stability compared to colder DH temps i.e. 58ish degrees OR Im just not having enough of a dose of dry hop.

Both beers turned out great (with zero reference to others because they were my first two! ) but just want a little more aroma "pop" that would be as prominent as when I kegged them. Wishful thinking? I do have a closed fermentation system but have to open the fermonster when dry hopping but do so when CO2 is purging the headspace. I also don't detect any obvious signs of oxidation but Ive heard aroma is the first thing to go.

Any thoughts on how better to retain that initial aroma pop climbing out of the glass? I'm sure my dry hopping technique will improve with practice but wasn't sure if cooler temps at like 58 degrees of dry hopping OR just using an ounce or two more hops on the cold side would help with a more long lasting aroma pop.

EDIT: Ive also followed suit by posting my "beer-porn-esque" pic of my first home-brew! exceeded my first brew expectations overall.

 

[Dryyourbeers]

Looking for a little more long lasting aroma "pop"!

Context: I'm a brand new brewer and Ive now kegged two beers, both NEIPAs: First one was Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy, Second one was Citra/Mosaic/Idaho7. Both have identical grain bills and both have 12.50oz of hops (5 gal finished batch, - 6gal in fermenter when dry hopping). 6.5oz hot side: .5oz first wort hop, 3oz in 5min boil, 3oz whirlpool. 6.0 cold side: (all after fermentation completed and after soft crashing and raising temp back to 68 degrees for dry hopping). 3oz dry hop at 3 days prior to kegging and another 3 oz 48hrs prior to kegging. Both beers were extremely smooth with zero harshness when kegging. Both had great aroma at kegging, although I personally liked the galaxy one better as it was more fruitier than the second which had more pine (which I still liked a lot).

Given my DH temps (68 degrees) and my dry hop rates (2 quick doses of 3oz each), anyone have any suggestions on how to maintain or enhance the aroma "pop"? FWIW, my first beer was kegged on 1/25 and while the aroma is still good, I now have to swirl it in glass to get that similar aroma pop I got when I kegged it. Ive noticed the flavor has enhanced on the first beer with almost a week of keg conditioning (too soon to tell on second beer as I just kegged it on saturday), but the aroma seems to have lost some of that pop. Wondering if the warm DH temps helps create the nice aroma initially but a more "fragile" aroma with lesser stability compared to colder DH temps i.e. 58ish degrees OR Im just not having enough of a dose of dry hop.

Both beers turned out great (with zero reference to others because they were my first two! ) but just want a little more aroma "pop" that would be as prominent as when I kegged them. Wishful thinking? I do have a closed fermentation system but have to open the fermonster when dry hopping but do so when CO2 is purging the headspace. I also don't detect any obvious signs of oxidation but Ive heard aroma is the first thing to go.

Any thoughts on how better to retain that initial aroma pop climbing out of the glass? I'm sure my dry hopping technique will improve with practice but wasn't sure if cooler temps at like 58 degrees of dry hopping OR just using an ounce or two more hops on the cold side would help with a more long lasting aroma pop.

EDIT: Ive also followed suit by posting my "beer-porn-esque" pic of my first home-brew! exceeded my first brew expectations overall.

pic looks great. What’s the ABV? My first thought is more dry hop. You could even double what you’ve used.

Oxygen shouldn’t get in during your dry hop if you have CO2 purging the headspace and flowing out at the same time

 

[beervoid]

I read somewhere that Treehouse uses the following:
Ca 15 / Mg 25 / Na 75 / CI 120 / So4 140

I have not tried this yet but may do so on my next NEIPA brew.

Do you remember where you read this?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Another thing to keep in mind is that not every yeast does bio and even then, not every hop has the ingredients for it either.

First define what you mean by "biotransformation" - are you talking about the release of bound hop compounds, to increase the quantity of free hop compounds in the beer, or are you talking about the conversion of eg terpenols into different compounds, which increases flavour complexity but reduces intensity mebbe 20%.

That Lallemand chart is only talking about the former not the latter. 1318 and T58 seem to be quite active at changing flavours, certainly more so than Conan.

 

[DrGMG]

First define what you mean by "biotransformation" - are you talking about the release of bound hop compounds, to increase the quantity of free hop compounds in the beer, or are you talking about the conversion of eg terpenols into different compounds, which increases flavour complexity but reduces intensity mebbe 20%.

That Lallemand chart is only talking about the former not the latter. 1318 and T58 seem to be quite active at changing flavours, certainly more so than Conan.

"Simply put, biotransformation is said to occur as a result of the interaction of hop oils and active yeast, leading to a transformation of certain terpenoids into terpenoids that weren’t originally present..."

 

[beervoid]

Looking for a little more long lasting aroma "pop"!

Context: I'm a brand new brewer and Ive now kegged two beers, both NEIPAs: First one was Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy, Second one was Citra/Mosaic/Idaho7. Both have identical grain bills and both have 12.50oz of hops (5 gal finished batch, - 6gal in fermenter when dry hopping). 6.5oz hot side: .5oz first wort hop, 3oz in 5min boil, 3oz whirlpool. 6.0 cold side: (all after fermentation completed and after soft crashing and raising temp back to 68 degrees for dry hopping). 3oz dry hop at 3 days prior to kegging and another 3 oz 48hrs prior to kegging. Both beers were extremely smooth with zero harshness when kegging. Both had great aroma at kegging, although I personally liked the galaxy one better as it was more fruitier than the second which had more pine (which I still liked a lot).

Given my DH temps (68 degrees) and my dry hop rates (2 quick doses of 3oz each), anyone have any suggestions on how to maintain or enhance the aroma "pop"? FWIW, my first beer was kegged on 1/25 and while the aroma is still good, I now have to swirl it in glass to get that similar aroma pop I got when I kegged it. Ive noticed the flavor has enhanced on the first beer with almost a week of keg conditioning (too soon to tell on second beer as I just kegged it on saturday), but the aroma seems to have lost some of that pop. Wondering if the warm DH temps helps create the nice aroma initially but a more "fragile" aroma with lesser stability compared to colder DH temps i.e. 58ish degrees OR Im just not having enough of a dose of dry hop.

Both beers turned out great (with zero reference to others because they were my first two! ) but just want a little more aroma "pop" that would be as prominent as when I kegged them. Wishful thinking? I do have a closed fermentation system but have to open the fermonster when dry hopping but do so when CO2 is purging the headspace. I also don't detect any obvious signs of oxidation but Ive heard aroma is the first thing to go.

Any thoughts on how better to retain that initial aroma pop climbing out of the glass? I'm sure my dry hopping technique will improve with practice but wasn't sure if cooler temps at like 58 degrees of dry hopping OR just using an ounce or two more hops on the cold side would help with a more long lasting aroma pop.

EDIT: Ive also followed suit by posting my "beer-porn-esque" pic of my first home-brew! exceeded my first brew expectations overall.

You can try cryo but if you are expecting same aroma as pro I think this is impossible as they got the best selected hops which probably make the difference vs homebrew.

 

[marchuk96]

You can try cryo but if you are expecting same aroma as pro I think this is impossible as they got the best selected hops which probably make the difference vs homebrew.

+1 to using cryo...but id only use it in whirlpool or dry hop... I think if it were me I'd try increasing you whirlpool amount just a bit 1st ...I'm usually in the 4-6 oz range for my whirlpool with a 1 hr stand...and before trying to just add more total hops I'd shift and ounce from the boil and an ounce from the dry hop and put it in w.p. and see what that does for ya...you could also do the same shift and take from boil and w.p and add to dry hop..if your unhappy with those results then consider either just adding 2 more ounces total into your beer and maybe getting some citra cryo to use...the later would increase total oils with out adding extra material[emoji482]

 

[brew703]

Do you remember where you read this?

I do not. I wrote it down on a sticky when i came across it. It was a month or so ago. Again, not sure how accurate those numbers are as I do not recall the source nor have I tried it.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

pic looks great. What’s the ABV? My first thought is more dry hop. You could even double what you’ve used.

Oxygen shouldn’t get in during your dry hop if you have CO2 purging the headspace and flowing out at the same time

Thanks. I was thinking going a little bigger on dry hop size too given that I’ve seen lots going a full pound or more total in 5g batches and I’m at 12.50. Just wanted to get smoother at hot side and cold side processes first prior to just going bigger.

The beer came out to 6.8%. Recipe was suppose to be 6.7 I think but I fell a little short on Specific gravity going into fermenter. Luckily A24 saved my but and attenuated over 80% which I wasn’t expecting but was welcome. Happy little accidents lol