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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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i had the Cashmere bomb last weekend. Several of my friends didn’t really like it as much. I thought it was very interesting, kind of herbal in addn to the fruit character
 
Been to both and you will not be disappointed with either. Definitely go for flights at sloop. The barn location is good
Barn is the original location. I remember going out there when the first open and their sours and Red C red ale were the only good things they were doing. Now everything they put out is solid
 
Barn is the original location. I remember going out there when the first open and their sours and Red C red ale were the only good things they were doing. Now everything they put out is solid

I agree everything is great. I have some sours and Red C from a recent trip and those are solid. Every time I travel by there I always stop
 
Made a random experimental type “IPA” a few months ago with wine yeast and Brett. I didn’t crash it before adding dry hops and all the yeasts I used are notoriously poor floccers. I used 10oz of hops (even the really high polyphenol content ones like Galaxy and Enigma) in the DH and it’s the first hoppy beer I’ve made in a while that has cleared in the keg...

It leads me to believe that getting as much yeast out of the beer as possible before adding large dry hop loads is one of the key elements of haze stability. Yeast that floccs really well is a plus.
 
I know a lot of you guys on here like using imperial a24 dryhop. I just picked up a package yesterday, I plan to use it in a NEIPA but I have a brut ipa planned for this weekend. You guys think this would work well in a brut?
 
I know a lot of you guys on here like using imperial a24 dryhop. I just picked up a package yesterday, I plan to use it in a NEIPA but I have a brut ipa planned for this weekend. You guys think this would work well in a brut?

***** yes!!! i made a couple bruts with it and they were great.
 
Made a random experimental type “IPA” a few months ago with wine yeast and Brett. I didn’t crash it before adding dry hops and all the yeasts I used are notoriously poor floccers. I used 10oz of hops (even the really high polyphenol content ones like Galaxy and Enigma) in the DH and it’s the first hoppy beer I’ve made in a while that has cleared in the keg...

It leads me to believe that getting as much yeast out of the beer as possible before adding large dry hop loads is one of the key elements of haze stability. Yeast that floccs really well is a plus.

Curious to see how it turns out
 
I know a lot of you guys on here like using imperial a24 dryhop. I just picked up a package yesterday, I plan to use it in a NEIPA but I have a brut ipa planned for this weekend. You guys think this would work well in a brut?

The “Citrus” part of that blend is Sacch Trois, which is diastaticus. So yeah it probably would be great for a Brut IPA (If you tend to like that style). If you add a decent amount of sugar and mash really low for a long time you probably won’t even need the enzymes.
 
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Curious to see how it turns out

It’s weird. The wine strain I used produced to many phenols and i didn’t give it long enough for the Brett to transform said phenols. It’s a bit like a Belgian IPA bit with some crazy fruity/weird aromatics. Unfortunately the phenols are too strong. If I were to do it again I’d give it much longer in primary before dry hopping and pitch a stronger more active Brett culture.
 
The “Citrus” part of that blend is Sacch Trois, which is diastaticus. So yeah it probably would be great for a Brut IPA (If you tend to like that style). If you add a decent amount of sugar and mash really low for a long time you probably won’t even need the enzymes.

So I’m guessing I should mash a little high when I use it for NEIPA, I used sacch trois in an IPA before (back when they still thought it was Brett) I think it ended up in the 1010-1012 range
 
i just did an unintentional hop creep experiment! did 10G batch and split. mashed at 165F. same yeast in split batch. only difference was a dry hopped half at like day 3. after soft crash and cold crash, half is at 1.011 and half is at 1.023!
 
So I’m guessing I should mash a little high when I use it for NEIPA, I used sacch trois in an IPA before (back when they still thought it was Brett) I think it ended up in the 1010-1012 range
I mash 154-156 for it. Last batch I step mashed 40 mins at 148 and 30 mins at 161. Finished a 1.016 which I enjoyed a lot.
 
Thats a 4-6 month beer based on that blend.

Only way we’ve made it work for a typical beer is to use pof- wine first for about 36hours then overwhelm it with a beer yeast rip roaring to go. Interesting beers we need to circle back to with new knowledge about biotransformation, hop choices, etc. Even had a neipa idea for the combo, on the to do list, which never seems to get smaller....
 
What POF- wine yeast did you use that wasn’t killer? Only POF- one I know of is K1V-1116 which is killer so if you add regular beer yeast I doubt the result would be that great.

I don’t think it’s a 4-6 month beer but 2-3 probably. There are some Brett strains that act pretty fast and if you pitch a big enough culture they don’t take too long.
 
Has anyone tried Cashmere? Better in the whirlpool or dry hop? Good pairs with it?
I have used it once but in a blend with calypso and some cryo cascade...looking back I should if just done a smash with it to see how it performed by itself...live and learn I guess...in the beer i made I got some lime and melon notes but since it was blended its hard to say what contributed what...it was an ok IPA but not one of my favs...I would suggest trying it as a smash to really gauge what it can do...or just get ur hands on some cashmere bomb[emoji23]
 
I’d have to put in a call and ask to look up the notes but there are actually one or two others that are characterized more as neutral than killer. Especially when vastly outnumbered by a big pitch.

Northernbrewer has a list with the pof and killer criterion of a bunch of wine strains. Link is somewhere here on the site.
 
Brewing this Tomorrow: Hazy River Juice v2

BIAB

Water Profile
Calcium 135ppm
Mag. 10ppm
Sodium 38ppm
Sulfate 93ppm
Chloride 205ppm

Mash at 153-154*F

Grist (milled to 0.020"):
71% Pilener Malt
8.3% Flaked White Wheat
4.2% Flaked Rice
8.3% Flake Oats
8.3% GNO

Boil 30 min (No hop Boil Editions), last 10 min add yeast nutrient.

Whirlpool- 2 rounds:
30 min at 160*F 3oz Azzaca & 2 oz citra
30 min at 150*F 3oz Azzaca & 2 oz citra

7.5 gal in FV

A24 Dry Hop (first time using!!) pitch @ 400 billion cells ( have any tryied less to get more esters? because i have heard over pitch add more too so i am not sure whats best with this strain)

Fermentation:
Day 1- Pitch @ 78*F, chill to 70-71*
Day 2- 72*F
Day 3- raise to 75*F right b4 ramps up heavy ferment activity
Day 4- 76*F
Day 5- free fall to 70-72*F; Dry hop #1 1 oz azzaca & 2oz citra
Day 6- 70-72*F
Day 7- 70-72*F
Day 8- Pull DH #1, Soft crash to 50*F hook up co2 pressure to 3psi
Day 9- 50*F Dump yeast
Day 10-rise to 68*F DH #2 2oz azzaca & 1oz citra
Day 11- 68*F
Day 12- 68*F
Day 13- pull DH #3, forced DICE test, if ok keg

Total Hops 2.46oz per gallon

To all the mad fermentation peps how does this fermentation drive look for A24?? I want to maximize the esters the yeast throws off so any tips would be appreciated!


Nick
 
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What does "crash completely" mean? Does that mean crash at 58 for longer than a day or does it mean crash at a temperature lower than 58 for some length of time?
@kevink

Crash completely - 36* for at lea
I would assume it means crash completely down to your lowest temperature. So looks like 24 hr dry hop at 58F and then drop temp to near freezing for another 24 hr and
package.

What he said!
 
I also just started canning and have only filled about a dozen so far with mixed results. My normal sop is to force carb at roughly 15psi, and I didn't want to pull the keg out to boost carbonation before canning so I just went for it like you. I definitely noticed a flatter beer after filling.
Next time I will force carb to 25psi and can the entire keg, using cold wet cans and a beer gun. I hope this helps my issues, I need to talk with someone who has more experience home canning.

Over fill the can so that when you put the top on and insert in the canner - beer will be displaced - not just foam. Also employ the use of a scale to “check your work” . I do 12oz cans - full can of beer is 294g for my can blanks (could vary by manufacturer). Anything less than 289g and I will drink it that same day because if will go flat.

I do not over carb - I can off keg tap. I hate beer guns.
 
On the subject of clarity. Has anyone ever left some neipa from which we "know" they dont use flaked/malted.wheat and oats in the fridge for a while and checked clarity later on?

I can tell from experience that Julius from Tree House dropped pretty clear after about 2 months.

@couchsending how long did your non wheat/oat neipas stay hazy in the keg?
Did you not notice any difference in clearing at all?

What about the ones from hill farmstead, trillium etc

Cheers.
 
At a side note.. Just wanted to throw this review in there for the No Oats / No Wheat discussion. Note the remarks of him that it misses that juicyness and creamy mouthfeel. Could be just their process is going down or the reviewer being palette fatigued but nonetheless an interesting observation.

This is a trillium beer made with
ABV: 6.8%
MALT: Pale Malt, Honey Malt, Victory Malt
HOPS: Mosaic

 
At a side note.. Just wanted to throw this review in there for the No Oats / No Wheat discussion. Note the remarks of him that it misses that juicyness and creamy mouthfeel. Could be just their process is going down or the reviewer being palette fatigued but nonetheless an interesting observation.

This is a trillium beer made with
ABV: 6.8%
MALT: Pale Malt, Honey Malt, Victory Malt
HOPS: Mosaic



Soft and and pillowy (words from Trillium description) is not the same a juicy and creamy....so maybe they weren’t going for that?

Also...what’s everyone’s thoughts on beer being a fresh product? And there only being a small window of prime flavor...aroma...mouth feel? I’m ok with it. Chasing a lasting haze in a beer that may only be peak for a few days is a little counterintuitive to some degree.
 
Soft and and pillowy (words from Trillium description) is not the same a juicy and creamy....so maybe they weren’t going for that?

Also...what’s everyone’s thoughts on beer being a fresh product? And there only being a small window of prime flavor...aroma...mouth feel? I’m ok with it. Chasing a lasting haze in a beer that may only be peak for a few days is a little counterintuitive to some degree.
So far most neipa i've had had a stable haze. Most where not older then 3 months.
I do taste a difference when they are fresh and you poor the bottom of settled debris vs an old one with settled debris. The old ones I prefer to keep it out.
 
In regards to freshness. I think this applies more to packaged product. It is incredibly hard to keep O2 out of beer when bottling or canning unless you have the absolute top of the line packaging equipment, the real expensive stuff. If you’re going from a fermenter right into a keg and keeping it cold you can keep your oxygen levels down to almost nothing. Your beer should last a lot longer, months without fading essentially. The better the stability (whatever your definition of that might be based on the style) the longer the beer will stay in tip top shape.

I’ve never had a Treehouse beer lose it’s haze other than Bright which is to be expected. However their beers are definitely prone to sediment at times, same with Trillium. HF cans I’ve had never have sediment and honestly the haze is never as “thicc” as others. But to be honest I don’t usually hold onto them
For that long. Had a Heady last night that was full of sediment. Honestly these might be the last Alchemist beers I buy. I’ve been so bummed with so many of the cans I’ve purchased over the last year. So many have been oxidized. The Heady last night wasn’t thank god but the Focal sure was. It’s a shame cause the sample beers on tap at the brewery always are phenomenal but the cans I’ve had are rarely close to that.
 
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I think most breweries have a pretty tight canning process, at least the ones in my area. The smaller ones that can't or don't want to afford the equipment rent mobile canning setups. After months in the can it still tastes as fresh as in the brewery.

Even so, I always check canning dates and generally refuse to buy anything more than 3 months old. I don't know exactly when a beer's flavor will begin to fade and it definitely would vary by recipe/brewery but it seems like a reasonable line to draw in the sand when I'm paying so much for craft beer.
 
I think freshness applies to any packaged beer including kegs.

Just up at HF and honestly felt the draft hoppy beers just didn’t pop like they usually do.

But the draft Mary was....awesome. The malt came through, the hops, the bitterness and dryness. As Shaun has said in an interview everything was in....”its place.”

An outstanding example of any style is a moving target and even people that do it well have to put up with that.

Freshness to me would be defined as when the beer is at its peak....not just tasting good at 6 months.

Edit:
The Mosaic IPA on draft was the most on point and tasting awesome.
 
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At a side note.. Just wanted to throw this review in there for the No Oats / No Wheat discussion. Note the remarks of him that it misses that juicyness and creamy mouthfeel. Could be just their process is going down or the reviewer being palette fatigued but nonetheless an interesting observation.

This is a trillium beer made with
ABV: 6.8%
MALT: Pale Malt, Honey Malt, Victory Malt
HOPS: Mosaic



Ouch! Pretty scathing review. "Bland..weak...forgettable..disappointing.."

I wonder if he was expecting a NEIPA, but it was really a West Coast IPA?

I prefer it when beers are labeled NEIPA or at least hazy, so I know what to expect. There is nothing wrong with a flavorful IPA, but that doesn't make it a NEIPA...

I personally would not think of brewing a NEIPA without wheat and oats. I believe that protein is what helps keep everything in suspension (longer). I have moved away from flaked, going with malted wheat and oats, and it seems to do the trick. I do use a little flaked barley and carafoam for head retention.

One of the most amazing examples of dropping clear was when I had Foggy Geezer on tap recently. (Created by 3 Floyds + Mikkeller at WarPigs Brewpub Copenhagen and brewed stateside by WarPigs Brewing USA.) It was totally clear and tasted very bland. I asked the bartender to shake the keg upside down, which helped a little. But there is something going on with that recipe...and kegging it did not help.

In terms of freshness, I do think NEIPAs peak after a few weeks, but I think the recipe and process can help with stability. I tend to think of it more like the flavor ramps up over a few weeks, then ramps down. But the beer is still pretty tasty there for about two months at least.

My latest is actually very drinkable (hooray!) after just one week of bottle conditioning, but I expect it to peak at about 6 weeks in the bottle, then start to fade out over several weeks. I never have any left after 2.5 months... though I am pretty sure the flavor would mostly be gone after 3 months. However, I would not expect it to ever drop clear. None of mine have so far...
 
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A common misconception is that malted wheat will help with haze, if anything it actually has the opposite effect. Listen to the recent CB&B podcast with the brewer from Modist. They have a mash filter so they can brew all sorts of weird beers that normal setups couldn’t. They brewed a 100% wheat malt hazy beer that cleared incredibly quickly. The brewer quotes Dan Carey from New Glaurus (one of the best brewers in the US) something about how malted wheat will always drop out of suspension. And when you have a large percentage of it, drag everything else down with it.
 

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