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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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I think the hop character at 58-62 is better than that when dry hopping warm. It seems like you’re less likely to get the “sweaty” notes of dry hopping at say 68-72. I haven’t gone much lower than 58 but I might try it soon. You still get all the fruity characteristics. Just less of the weird rotting/overripe stanky character I associate with dry hopping at fermentation temps and especially during active fermentation with a lot of yeast present.
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Just did a amarillo Citra (no flaked) using imperial voyager and my main complaint has been that same overripe taste and aroma and I definitely did my bio hop at ferm temp (73) and then a second dh several weeks later at basement temp (75ish) and it improved things but it’s still there. I had figured it was the a05 since it was my first time using it but this is also the first time i dry hopped that warm. Previous hazys were all using juice at a constant 65.

I had much better results with a Citra Galaxy that was second dry hopped in a keg completely off the yeast after crashing the fermentation keg to 32, so I’m totally on board with your process. I’ve just gotten lazy of late doing ferm and serv in the same keg using a janish diptube filter or cbds
 
Just did a amarillo Citra (no flaked) using imperial voyager and my main complaint has been that same overripe taste and aroma and I definitely did my bio hop at ferm temp (73) and then a second dh several weeks later at basement temp (75ish) and it improved things but it’s still there. I had figured it was the a05 since it was my first time using it but this is also the first time i dry hopped that warm. Previous hazys were all using juice at a constant 65.

I had much better results with a Citra Galaxy that was second dry hopped in a keg completely off the yeast after crashing the fermentation keg to 32, so I’m totally on board with your process. I’ve just gotten lazy of late doing ferm and serv in the same keg using a janish diptube filter or cbds

Voyager is 1469, Timothy Taylor. I haven’t used it in a while. I’ve heard you can get some great stone fruit character from it but it’s weird in that the Krausen stays around forever. Yeast floccs well eventually but I don’t know if top cropping it would help the krausen dissipate faster or not. I think once you figure out how to use it, it could make some great hoppy beers.
 
Voyager is 1469, Timothy Taylor. I haven’t used it in a while. I’ve heard you can get some great stone fruit character from it but it’s weird in that the Krausen stays around forever. Yeast floccs well eventually but I don’t know if top cropping it would help the krausen dissipate faster or not. I think once you figure out how to use it, it could make some great hoppy beers.
Yeah it’s not bad, def hazy. I tried to keep raising the temp for the first few days from 68 to 73 and I think I would just peg it at one temp and leave it, same as how I would do juice. It definitely has some yeast character but it’s not as prominent as juice. The starter for juice smells like it’s pre hopped, this didn’t. I overbuilt so I’ll give it a shot again. I was intrigued when it got “released” in spring for the stone fruit but it’s not crazy obvious.

On it being 1469, I had read that four square (also a05) was 1469 but somewhere imperial noted it was similar but not quite. Maybe it just mutated slightly. I will say it way way way over attenuated. Supposed to be low attenuator and was expecting 1.018, dropped all the way to 1.008. The extra abv was why it needed the second dry hop. Mash temp was a tad low 147/148 ish but I was shooting for 149 to combat the expected lower attenuation
 
Is it worth dropping the yeast if you can’t dump it (aka no conical)? I would assume yes if you can carefully rack after dry hopping without stirring up yeast/sediment, but figured I’d ask.

I ferment in cornys and crash the yeast before dry hopping and then again before transfer to serving keg. Yeah I don't see why you wouldn't get the same effect, whether yeast is dumped or not. I've noticed brighter aroma/flavors since I started doing this. I use the CBDS in my fermenting kegs to pull from the top.
 
How are you liking the salt that high?

one of the brewers in janish's book also mentioned that he likes to add salt (sodium chloride) to his beers. i'd never really thought about upping the sodium level. could be interesting. easy to add some to the finished beer in the glass as a preliminary test.

i remember jamil told a story about a guy he met in a bar one time. they guy was older and said whenever he had a beer that didn't taste great, he'd toss in several sprinkles of salt and it would taste better!
 
one of the brewers in janish's book also mentioned that he likes to add salt (sodium chloride) to his beers. i'd never really thought about upping the sodium level. could be interesting. easy to add some to the finished beer in the glass as a preliminary test.

i remember jamil told a story about a guy he met in a bar one time. they guy was older and said whenever he had a beer that didn't taste great, he'd toss in several sprinkles of salt and it would taste better!

I’ve been upping the amounts i use slowly to about 40ppm so far....certainly changes the flavor slightly...seems to accentuate earthier and malty flavors and rounds out the hop flavor. And yes different than just adding calcium chloride.
 
I’ve been upping the amounts i use slowly to about 40ppm so far....certainly changes the flavor slightly...seems to accentuate earthier and malty flavors and rounds out the hop flavor. And yes different than just adding calcium chloride.
I read an article that claimed that many breweries have their na ppm close to 100 without any detectable salt flavor. I upped mine to 73 ppm last batch without any ill effect and possibly an inhanced hop profile (changed a few things last batch so can’t say for certain)
 
I got a stout over 120ish by accident. 2 people, and myself, mentioned a "soy sauce" sence. No triple digits anymore. I always remind myself of Yoopers words about adding chemicals, "Less is more."
 
Keep in mind Malt adds sodium. Around 40ppm for say your average IPA grain bill give or take. 60 is as high as I ever gone with NaCl additions. Next round I’m brewing the same mid 6s IPA with the same yeast, grain and hops, and vastly different water profiles to see which I prefer. Already got the yeast variable finished. Pretty much settled on a grain bill now need to eliminate water, or start to at least.
 
Just realized a slight contributor to the clearing of my beer so quickly, I used 50% of the dryhop as cryo hops. Doesn’t explain all the floc but certainly contributed

I used Mosaic Cryo for dry hop on Day 5, but it just floated on the surface until bottling day(!), even after 4 days of soft crashing at 60. The learning is I should have a least given the carboy a little shake, because the hops fell from the surface when I was about to start bottling! But I think I'm just going to skip Cryo from now on...
 
I too read Janish's book and just added my last dry hop (2 oz each of Citra and Mosaic) after soft crashing to 58 for 2 days. I don't have the ability to dump yeast (Ssbrew bucket), but I would if I could. I'm going to let it sit for one day at 58 then cold crash for two days before kegging. I also added a preferm and late ferm dry hop. Just call me a lemming. I'm expecting a juice bomb :)

I'm on my second read-through of Janish's book... Lots of great info, but pretty dense/scientific. One thing I am thinking about is the higher whirlpool temps that he advocates. He uses 203 and 185 and nothing lower. I do use the flameout addition, but then I usually have been cooling to under 180 for a long whirlpool. Has anyone found that those higher whirlpool temps are the way to go? I think I am doing to try them next time -- basically, adding most/all of the whirlpool hops at 203.
 
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I used Mosaic Cryo for dry hop on Day 5, but it just floated on the surface until bottling day(!), even after 4 days of soft crashing at 60. The learning is I should have a least given the carboy a little shake, because the hops fell from the surface when I was about to start bottling! But I think I'm just going to skip Cryo from now on...
I’m a fan of them personally. Especially whirlpool additions. I remembered reading janish’s explaination on how cryo dropped beers remainless hazy due to reduced polyphenols
 
After about a month in the keg, mine just has dropped clear
IMG_5200.JPG


It was:
Houseneiparawwheatupload.jpeg
 
Need advice if I should add another addition of dry hops. Og was 1.061 and it’s sitting at 1.010 the last couple days. On day 3 of fermentation I added
1oz mosaic
1oz Citra
1oz of Idaho 7

Monday I added
1oz mosaic
1oz Citra
1oz of Idaho 7

Whirlpool @180f for 30mins
2oz mosaic
2oz Citra
2oz Idaho 7

Should I add another round Thursday and then keg after two days? Or would this be to much dry hopping for this abv?
 
Need advice if I should add another addition of dry hops. Og was 1.061 and it’s sitting at 1.010 the last couple days. On day 3 of fermentation I added
1oz mosaic
1oz Citra
1oz of Idaho 7

Monday I added
1oz mosaic
1oz Citra
1oz of Idaho 7

Whirlpool @180f for 30mins
2oz mosaic
2oz Citra
2oz Idaho 7

Should I add another round Thursday and then keg after two days? Or would this be to much dry hopping for this abv?

I have almost this exact hop combo on tap right now and I think it’s become my house NEIPA. That Idaho 7 is super potent and delicious when paired with mosaic and Citra. You won’t be disappointed.
 
67.7% 2-Row
12.9% Flaked oats
9.7% Raw Wheat
6.5% Carafoam
3.2% Honey malt

7oz In 180 degree WP
3oz dry hop on day 2 of fermentation and another 3oz after fermentation.
What og and fg?

I suspect too much proteins and not the right ones can give clear beer, (Janish did an experiment on this)

Also 3oz on day 2, you probably lost some oils due to yeast dragging them down and then another 3oz was probably too little to get a stable hazy emulsion.
 
I am making custom brew spreadsheet to track my recipes better and hopping rates to compare recipes, and i am questioning what wort volume you guys have been using to calc the hops to wort ratio.

Do you take the total kettle hops divided by your gallons packaged or use the post boil/whirlpool wort volume??

In my last batch is was at:

Using post boil/whirlpool wort volume = 10oz/7gal = 1.43 oz/gal

or

Using Beer packaged in keg = 10oz/5gal = 2oz/gal
 
My last IPA had around 100 ppm Na in it. If you concentrated, you could find some salty-ness on the tip of the tongue. But you really had to look. I have enjoyed the effects of salt. I don't mash it though. Straight into the boil.
 
I am making custom brew spreadsheet to track my recipes better and hopping rates to compare recipes, and i am questioning what wort volume you guys have been using to calc the hops to wort ratio.

Do you take the total kettle hops divided by your gallons packaged or use the post boil/whirlpool wort volume??

In my last batch is was at:

Using post boil/whirlpool wort volume = 10oz/7gal = 1.43 oz/gal

or

Using Beer packaged in keg = 10oz/5gal = 2oz/gal

Packaged volume
 
9110A37C-448C-486D-8D10-68FB60E5C841.jpeg
This one is a week in the keg.
DIPA w/ Mosaic , Lemon Drop and El
Dorado
Really love what the Lemon Drop brings. A bit floral , definitely different.
Too bad I lost 90% of this beer on the basement floor ‍♂️ Sob story
 

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