New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[marchuk96]

Yes, I believe the HCO number comes from the akalinity. It appears that the only way I can lower the ph enough -- and hit my Cl and So4 targets -- is to add some Lactic Acid 88%. The ph is 5.67 without the lactic acid, and 5.38 with it.

I can see how depending on the water you start with, you may not need to add any acid. I am using tap water, not RO or distilled.

You could always blend your tap water with distilled water...or just go all distilled...its an added cost($9)but it will solve your problem.. idk if brewers friend calculator will adjust your starting water for you if you did blend...I believe brunwater does which is what I use...you could also buy some accidulated malt as well instead of the lactic acid to help lower ph

 

[ba-brewer]

Yes, I picked tsp bc that seemed easier to use... If I use 2.5 ml the predicted ph is 5.6, and I'm shooting for 5.4. It's 5.38 when I do the salt and acid additions, unless I am doing something wrong...

If you plan to continue building water you might want to get a small scale to measure salts in grams and get a small syringe for measuring acid. It will give you better control and repeatability. My LHBS has small syringes and the small scales are pretty reasonable on amazon.

 

[SRJHops]

I’m at work so I’ll check later when i get home.
But are you sure the acid amount is displayed in tsp and not ml?

If you click the check box to specify acid amount by target it automatically calculates it in ml....not tsp.

And I think even if you change the drop down to tsp while this box is checked it will still display the ml amounts and not tsp....

Here's the url to my water calculation so far: https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/?id=KKXX3PW

Thanks again for your help!

 

[SRJHops]

You could always blend your tap water with distilled water...or just go all distilled...its an added cost($9)but it will solve your problem.. idk if brewers friend calculator will adjust your starting water for you if you did blend...I believe brunwater does which is what I use...you could also buy some accidulated malt as well instead of the lactic acid to help lower ph

I like the idea of accidulated malt. Not sure it can be loaded into this calculator, though? Maybe a different one?

As for the blend... I suppose it depends on how close I need to hit the targets? The Deltas on the calculator are green, which I assume means I am close enough? For example, I wanted to hit 100 ppm for sulfate, but so far I'm at 97.6. Prob close enough?

 

[leesmith]

Here's the url to my water calculation so far: https://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/?id=KKXX3PW

Thanks again for your help!

You need to click the salts added to mash only button.

Unless you are treating your sparge water.

By clicking this...it will get your needed acid down to about .75 tsp to hit desired mash ph of 5.4.

I like the ability to share the water profile.

*Edit...also I think Carapils should be used as a caramel malt.

 

[SRJHops]

You need to click the salts added to mash only button.

Unless you are treating your sparge water.

By clicking this...it will get your needed acid down to about .75 tsp to hit desired mash ph of 5.4.

I like the ability to share the water profile.

*Edit...also I think Carapils should be used as a caramel malt.

I was going to treat both the mash and the sparge water. Should I just treat the mash water? That would mean less acid it appears, which seems like a good thing. (Odd that so much more lactic acid would be needed if also treating sparge?)

What do you mean use carapils as a carmel malt? I thought it didn't add color or flavor? I have been using it to add body and increase head retention. I dialed it down to .25 lb for my latest brew, but I need to dial it back up for the next one.

Thanks again!

 

[nick sekerak]

Are you using the recipe listed in this thread? I have not been able to get mine that cloudy and am curious of your recipe. Thanks!

I am using something similar to it, my base malts are GP and 2 row, adjuncts were flaked oats, flaked wheat and flaked rice.

 

[leesmith]

I was going to treat both the mash and the sparge water. Should I just treat the mash water? That would mean less acid it appears, which seems like a good thing. (Odd that so much more lactic acid would be needed if also treating sparge?)

What do you mean use carapils as a carmel malt? I thought it didn't add color or flavor? I have been using it to add body and increase head retention. I dialed it down to .25 lb for my latest brew, but I need to dial it back up for the next one.

Thanks again!

You didn’t fill in the treatment for the sparge water.

Carapils doesn’t need to be mashed. It’s not a base malt.

I’ll take a more in depth look later.

 

[SRJHops]

You didn’t fill in the treatment for the sparge water.

Carapils doesn’t need to be mashed. It’s not a base malt.

I’ll take a more in depth look later.

Yeah, I figured the calculator was giving me the numbers for all 8.5 gallons, so I was just going to split the additions in half between mash and sparge water. But now that I think about it, it makes a heckuva lot more sense to put everything in the mash water. After all, it's mash ph we are looking for, not sparge (though I know the ph of the sparge can affect tannins).

So, I think I will plan to add everything to the mash water. At least until I learn more about why I might want to add some salt or acid to the sparge water too...

Sorry, I'm not following you on the carapils... If I don't mash it, what the heck would I do with it?

I do now see on the calculator that I could list carapils as crystal/caramel. That did change the ph by .01

 

[schematix]

Sorry, I'm not following you on the carapils... If I don't mash it, what the heck would I do with it?

Throw it in the trash.

 

[leesmith]

So, I think I will plan to add everything to the mash water. At least until I learn more about why I might want to add some salt or acid to the sparge water too...

I think this is a good plan.

Sorry, I'm not following you on the carapils... If I don't mash it, what the heck would I do with it?

I do now see on the calculator that I could list carapils as crystal/caramel. That did change the ph by .01

I agree with schematix (that gave me a laugh...sorry) but if you want to use it...enter it as a crystal malt into the calculator. And you would put it in the mash just like you do crystal malt....they just do not NEED to be mashed because they have no enzymes to convert. I wasn't clear on my explanation.

 

[SRJHops]

I think this is a good plan.
I agree with schematix (that gave me a laugh...sorry) but if you want to use it...enter it as a crystal malt into the calculator. And you would put it in the mash just like you do crystal malt....they just do not NEED to be mashed because they have no enzymes to convert. I wasn't clear on my explanation.

Cool. Thanks again for your help!

And no worries about the carapils... I don't know enough (yet) to know other/better ways to increase mouthfeel and head retention. I do know that a lot of commercial beers have neither...

 

[plazola86]

I don't know enough (yet) to know other/better ways to increase mouthfeel and head retention = Viagra

 

[schematix]

Cool. Thanks again for your help!

And no worries about the carapils... I don't know enough (yet) to know other/better ways to increase mouthfeel and head retention. I do know that a lot of commercial beers have neither...

When you’re ready to take the leap, the trick is step mashing. Carapils will increase the FG a little but it’s not really ‘good’ body, and head retention has many factors that carapils alone doesn’t do.

 

[Loud Brewing]

I've never had an issue with neipas and head retention. All the flaked oat, wheat and barley etc help make it thick and creamy.

 

[WBCo]

...the trick is step mashing...

Do you have a preferred mashing profile? I did my first stepped mash on my new recirculating eBIAB two weeks ago, so I can't vouch for any changes just yet. I dryhopped yesterday and will be kegging this wknd. I went 145*F/152*F/162*F. Grist was mostly Golden Promise with some malted wheat and flaked barley.

 

[schematix]

Do you have a preferred mashing profile? I did my first stepped mash on my new recirculating eBIAB two weeks ago, so I can't vouch for any changes just yet. I dryhopped yesterday and will be kegging this wknd. I went 145*F/152*F/162*F. Grist was mostly Golden Promise with some malted wheat and flaked barley.

144 for 20 min
148 for 20 min
152 for 5 mins (*if pilsner or desire extra dryness)
162 for 30 min
171 for 10 min

Takes about 2 hours including all the steps.

Sometimes the grains dictate some slight changes to times and temps, but this is nearly fool proof to getting 100% conversion, great head, body, and attenuation. Other parts of your process have to be solid too but this will go a long way.

 

[WBCo]

144 for 20 min
148 for 20 min
152 for 5 mins (*if pilsner or desire extra dryness)
162 for 30 min
171 for 10 min

Takes about 2 hours including all the steps.

Sometimes the grains dictate some slight changes to times and temps, but this is nearly fool proof to getting 100% conversion, great head, body, and attenuation. Other parts of your process have to be solid too but this will go a long way.

Great, thanks! Does the 171*F make a huge difference, or is that your mash out?

Is your 152 step only 5 min or is that a mistype? Just curious since that seems like a short amount of time.

The rest of my process is pretty dialed in at this point, although I'm constantly tinkering and trying to improve. After boil I pump into my Spike conical where I use the active fermentation to purge a sanitized keg. The conical is temp controlled using a TC thermoprobe from Auber attached to a heater. I need a glycol chiller, but the ambient in my basement this time of year means I have a couple months to squeak by without it. I then do a completely closed transfer into the keg(s) and put them into the kegerator on gas. I'd like to experiment with krausening, but I'll probably start playing with that once I pick up another conical and can brew more often.

 

[couchsending]

Do you have a preferred mashing profile? I did my first stepped mash on my new recirculating eBIAB two weeks ago, so I can't vouch for any changes just yet. I dryhopped yesterday and will be kegging this wknd. I went 145*F/152*F/162*F. Grist was mostly Golden Promise with some malted wheat and flaked barley.

It all depends on what you’re trying to achieve.

For hoppy beers I’d only do a step at 145 if it’s a big beer with lower attenuating yeast.

You can mess with the length of the 145 rest to screw with fetmrntability but I don’t have enough data on that to recommend certain times.

I don’t think you need to combine a 145 step with a step in the 150s unless you’re really trying to dry things out or using a low attenuating yeast.

I also don’t think the mash out step is overly important on the home brew scale unless you struggle with stuck mashes. It’s important on a pro scale more than on our little scale. It helps to lock in a profile but if you’re doing the long 162 step it’s not going to get you much more. If you’re trying to get a high FG it can help but with hops you don’t really want that.

 

[WBCo]

It all depends on what you’re trying to achieve.

For hoppy beers I’d only do a step at 145 if it’s a big beer with lower attenuating yeast.

You can mess with the length of the 145 rest to screw with fermentability but I don’t have enough data on that to recommend certain times.

I don’t think you need to combine a 145 step with a step in the 150s unless you’re really trying to dry things out or using a low attenuating yeast.

I also don’t think the mash out step is overly important on the home brew scale unless you struggle with stuck mashes. It’s important on a pro scale more than on our little scale. It helps to lock in a profile but if you’re doing the long 162 step it’s not going to get you much more. If you’re trying to get a high FG it can help but with hops you don’t really want that.

Thanks for the input. I tend to use lower attenuating English yeasts, as most do, so I don't mind a drier beer than what I'd get from mashing for something like 154 for 60 minutes or so. I know a lot of people chase a higher final gravity with this style, but I tend to prefer getting some malt flavor from the base malt and letting the beer dry out a little more. I like the drinkability of a crisper beer and I feel like a lower FG lends to creating a beer that is more sessionable.

I agree with you on the mash out, I BIAB so I definitely don't have a use for one. As soon as my timer goes off I crank up the element and get the grains out of there.

 

[leesmith]

It all depends on what you’re trying to achieve.

For hoppy beers I’d only do a step at 145 if it’s a big beer with lower attenuating yeast.

You can mess with the length of the 145 rest to screw with fetmrntability but I don’t have enough data on that to recommend certain times.

I don’t think you need to combine a 145 step with a step in the 150s unless you’re really trying to dry things out or using a low attenuating yeast.

I also don’t think the mash out step is overly important on the home brew scale unless you struggle with stuck mashes. It’s important on a pro scale more than on our little scale. It helps to lock in a profile but if you’re doing the long 162 step it’s not going to get you much more. If you’re trying to get a high FG it can help but with hops you don’t really want that.

I’ve been doing the mash out step not really for anything except to measure and adjust ph preboil....

Gives me time...I’ll just hold it in the 170’s until I’m confident in my readings and adjustment....then move on.

*Edit...I do full volume mashing though.

 

[stickyfinger]

If you want to reduce ABV, mash high and do a mashout. The resulting beer will taste awesome. I usually mash between 160-165F with a mashout. As long as the simple sugars attenuate, it won't be "sweet". If you like crispness, try boosting the sulfate.

Thanks for the input. I tend to use lower attenuating English yeasts, as most do, so I don't mind a drier beer than what I'd get from mashing for something like 154 for 60 minutes or so. I know a lot of people chase a higher final gravity with this style, but I tend to prefer getting some malt flavor from the base malt and letting the beer dry out a little more. I like the drinkability of a crisper beer and I feel like a lower FG lends to creating a beer that is more sessionable.

I agree with you on the mash out, I BIAB so I definitely don't have a use for one. As soon as my timer goes off I crank up the element and get the grains out of there.

 

[schematix]

Great, thanks! Does the 171*F make a huge difference, or is that your mash out?

Is your 152 step only 5 min or is that a mistype? Just curious since that seems like a short amount of time.

Yes 171 is the mashout. I’ve never gone without it so I can’t give you a comparative answer, but most brewing literature indicates positive benefits so I go with it.

The 152 is just 5 mins. It’d really just an insurance step against high gelatinization temps.

Careful doing a single infusion at 145. There is a good chance that’s not warm enough to gelatinize all the starch.

I get 100% mash conversion with the 144/148/162/171 every single time. It’s great.

 

[RTHP99]

For those of you who spund, I’m looking for some advice. I’m currently close to 48 hours since I pitched 1.5l of 1318, and 24 hours since I added the dry hops. I know the only way to know for sure is to take gravity readings but I do not want to take any. I know the 1318 finishes up fast and I don’t want to miss the opportunity to transfer to the keg while their is still enough activity to carbonate itself and eat up any expose oxygen , but don’t want to transfer too soon. The Krausen is currently pretty high, but the activity seems to have slowed down, and the temperature has pretty much been stabilized for a few hours now

 

[Loud Brewing]

For those of you who spund, I’m looking for some advice. I’m currently close to 48 hours since I pitched 1.5l of 1318, and 24 hours since I added the dry hops. I know the only way to know for sure is to take gravity readings but I do not want to take any. I know the 1318 finishes up fast and I don’t want to miss the opportunity to transfer to the keg while their is still enough activity to carbonate itself and eat up any expose oxygen , but don’t want to transfer too soon. The Krausen is currently pretty high, but the activity seems to have slowed down, and the temperature has pretty much been stabilized for a few hours now

Looks good, is there a reason u dont want to take a sample? Moving the beer on day 2 isn't worth it imo. If you separate the beer from the cake it can stall fermentation and or not let the yeast clean up. I would prefer to let the beer finish in the fermentor and do a closed transfer if you are worried about oxy. I see you have a fermonster, for about 25 bucks you can make a pressure kit similar to the fermentasaurus. Drill 2 1/2 holes in your lid and use 2 ball lock fittings. Then pressurize fermenter and push the beer into the keg. I usually finish day 7-10, warm up to 72f for a dia rest. Then cold crash for 24hrs and transfer. Good luck!

 

[RTHP99]

Looks good, is there a reason u dont want to take a sample? Moving the beer on day 2 isn't worth it imo. If you separate the beer from the cake it can stall fermentation and or not let the yeast clean up. I would prefer to let the beer finish in the fermentor and do a closed transfer if you are worried about oxy. I see you have a fermonster, for about 25 bucks you can make a pressure kit similar to the fermentasaurus. Drill 2 1/2 holes in your lid and use 2 ball lock fittings. Then pressurize fermenter and push the beer into the keg. I usually finish day 7-10, warm up to 72f for a dia rest. Then cold crash for 24hrs and transfer. Good luck!
View attachment 614354

I’ve had problems with oxidizing in all of the ipas I’ve brewed except for 1- the one that I tried spunding. Despite trying a closed transfer, things getting clogged and having to open everything up and creating a big mess, to my surprise that beer held up incredibly well. I’m going to try a closed transfer again but now I have a hop spider set up as a filter over the racking cane this time. I did modify my cap so that I can do closed transfer

 

[leesmith]

For those of you who spund, I’m looking for some advice. I’m currently close to 48 hours since I pitched 1.5l of 1318, and 24 hours since I added the dry hops. I know the only way to know for sure is to take gravity readings but I do not want to take any. I know the 1318 finishes up fast and I don’t want to miss the opportunity to transfer to the keg while their is still enough activity to carbonate itself and eat up any expose oxygen , but don’t want to transfer too soon. The Krausen is currently pretty high, but the activity seems to have slowed down, and the temperature has pretty much been stabilized for a few hours now

What’s the OG of the beer? My bet it’s close to FG.

I brew a lot of 1.045 to 1.50 beers and they are at FG on day two with 1318.

If you have a spunding valve...then any excess pressure will bleed off.

 

[RTHP99]

What’s the OG of the beer? My bet it’s close to FG.

I brew a lot of 1.045 to 1.50 beers and they are at FG on day two with 1318.

If you have a spunding valve...then any excess pressure will bleed off.

1.060

 

[RTHP99]

Well, it was another failed attempt at a closed transfer. Everything was going smooth for the first 1/4, then it stopped flowing, still not sure what happened. Had the fermenter and the keg opened for a while, hopefully there’s enough active yeast left like last time this happened and the beer still turned out great . Time will tell

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Well, it was another failed attempt at a closed transfer. Everything was going smooth for the first 1/4, then it stopped flowing, still not sure what happened. Had the fermenter and the keg opened for a while, hopefully there’s enough active yeast left like last time this happened and the beer still turned out great . Time will tell

Have you thought about a Fermentasaurous with the pressure option? Also need a pressure relief valve. No need to transfer. I'm still working out the bugs myself but it's getting better.