New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[pshankstar]

With some more reading on this thread I am going to attempt it with the following grain bill and hop schedule.

Grain Bill:
2-Row 52.3%
Pilsner 19.6%
Wheat 19.6%
Flaked Oats 6.5%
Honey Malt 2.0%

Yeast:
A blend of OYL-052 & WY1318 (50/50 blend)

Hop Schedule:
Bravo 1oz - 60 mins (27 IBUS according to Beersmith)
Amarillo, Citra & Belma 2oz of each at flameout (6oz total)
Amarillo, Citra & Belma 2oz of each Dry Hops at day 3 of fermentation (6oz total)
Amarillo, Citra & Belma 2oz of each Dry Hops at day 12 when transferred to keg (6oz total)

Thanks again to @tld6008, I will use 100% RO water following @Braufessor post 5649 with the mineral additions. I will post back here after the beer is kegged and served with some feedback.

 

[BeachBeerBoo]

How do you make this beer forgetting the malted barley?

Forgot to buy it while at the LHBS. Wasn't about to make a 1 hr round trip on brew day when I realized it.

 

[jakturner]

^Pretty sure he means FLAKED barley, like Brau used in the first posted recipe.

 

[BeachBeerBoo]

^Pretty sure he means FLAKED barley, like Brau used in the first posted recipe.

Whoops yep. Forgot FLAKED barley.

 

[JohnK93]

Hey all,

I kegged a batch of this yesterday and was attempting the second dry hop in the keg, but unfortunately I now have 3oz if hops in a weighted muslin bag at the bottom of my keg. Should I leave them be, or wait a few days and transfer the beer to a second keg? Not sure how the hops will affect flavor over time.

BTW, the Citra/mosaic/Galaxy blend tasted amazing one day into the second dry hop!

Thanks,
John

 

[popquizkid]

Whoops yep. Forgot FLAKED barley.

ahh..that makes a lot more sense. I have made it without the flaked barley as well when my local coop was out in the bulk section. I just upped the flaked oats and wheat to compensate. I never buy flaked grains from homebrew store as I can almost always get flaked oats, wheat, barley from the bulk section at the natural foods store. If you have one closer that might make your life easier in the future.

Made this recipe a number of times and often vary the composition of the flaked grain bill depending what I have available. Not sure it makes a huge difference.

 

[VT_jlee]

Hey all,

I kegged a batch of this yesterday and was attempting the second dry hop in the keg, but unfortunately I now have 3oz if hops in a weighted muslin bag at the bottom of my keg. Should I leave them be, or wait a few days and transfer the beer to a second keg? Not sure how the hops will affect flavor over time.

BTW, the Citra/mosaic/Galaxy blend tasted amazing one day into the second dry hop!

Thanks,
John

I always leave my hops in the keg until it kicks, so you'll be fine.

 

[dg2001]

Ok, I decided to keg tonight at day 11. Loosely followed the original recipe. I used 2.5 oz Citra and 0.5 oz Galaxy at flameout (0 min), whirlpool at 165 F (30 mins), and double that on dry hop at day 4 for a total of 10 oz Citra and 2 Galaxy. It’s not carbed yet but one of the best beers I have made in 20 batches or so. I attempted to rack from primary (6.5 G carboy w/carboy cap) to keg under pressure for the first time. Let me tell you, that was a disaster. The racking cane, the beer line, and the keg quick disconnects kept clogging, then the pressure would build high enough to blow the carboy cap off the keg. Halfway through racking I decided to just open the keg and bypass the quick disconnect. Maybe I didn’t expose my beer to to much oxygen. Needless to say I had beer from one end of the kitchen to the other. Can someone with more experience than I shed some light on how you successfully do a closed from carboy to keg without clogging issues due to dry hops? Joys of homebrewing. Lol

 

[Braufessor]

Ok, I decided to keg tonight at day 11. Loosely followed the original recipe. I used 2.5 oz Citra and 0.5 oz Galaxy at flameout (0 min), whirlpool at 165 F (30 mins), and double that on dry hop at day 4 for a total of 10 oz Citra and 2 Galaxy. It’s not carbed yet but one of the best beers I have made in 20 batches or so. I attempted to rack from primary (6.5 G carboy w/carboy cap) to keg under for the first time. Let me tell you, that was a disaster. The racking cane, the beer line, and the keg quick disconnects kept clogging, then the pressure would build high enough to blow the carboy cap off the keg. Halfway through racking I decided to just open the keg and bypass the quick disconnect. Maybe I didn’t expose my beer to to much oxygen. Needless to say I had beer from one end of the kitchen to the other. Can someone with more experience than I shed some light on how you successfully do a closed from carboy to keg without clogging issues due to dry hops? Joys of homebrewing. Lol

I don't do closed transfers with this beer....... I have found it to a be a monumental PITA because of clogging issues.....
Some things you can do if you want to do closed transfer....
1.) Make sure you get the fermenter up on the counter you are using and set in place a couple days before transfer to let things settle out. (Actually - do this no matter how you transfer)
2.) Keep siphon away from the bottom
3.) Maybe cold crash
4.) Some people use a filter
5.) Take the poppets out of the keg posts and take the "guts" out of the black disconnect going on the post

Personally, I just fill the keg with star san, push it all out with CO2. Get everything in place. Release the pressure from the keg, pop the lid, run the tubing from spigot on my fermenter (racking cane for you) and make sure it is long enough to go to the bottom of the keg. Transfer via gravity. I set the lid back on during transfer to minimize the opening. Once the keg gets about half full or 2/3 full, I turn the CO2 on to the keg at a low 2-3 psi to minimize O2 as much as I can. Fill to just below the the CO2 tube. Stop transfer, pull out tubing, Put lid on, open pressure release and let CO2 run through the small head space for 30-60 seconds at low pressure to purge any 02. Then close pressure release and crank up CO2 to 20psi to seal the lid.

** Also, find ways to minimize hop material that is getting moved from one stage to the other - that is a big help. That is why I brew 6.5 gallons and leave wort/beer behind at various stages.

This is what I do and it works perfectly fine. Doing it several times and getting the process you use down is honestly about 80% of the battle. Once you get a process in place and use it, you become very efficient at it.

 

[stickyfinger]

100% Maris Otter definitely won't hurt the beer - might make it better, might not notice a big difference.

Honestly, the real consideration in regard to 100% british pale ale malt, or 100% 2 Row or 50/50 is cost. 2 Row is just cheaper. Honestly, the interesting thing to do would be to brew one with 100% Maris or Golden Promise and the other with 100% 2 row and see if you can really tell the difference...... if not, 100% 2 row would be the way to go because it would save a fairly decent amount of $$$.

i’d like to see that test. keep in mind that the english malts are 25kg/55lbs and the yield can be slightly higher than domestics

 

[stickyfinger]

ahh..that makes a lot more sense. I have made it without the flaked barley as well when my local coop was out in the bulk section. I just upped the flaked oats and wheat to compensate. I never buy flaked grains from homebrew store as I can almost always get flaked oats, wheat, barley from the bulk section at the natural foods store. If you have one closer that might make your life easier in the future.

Made this recipe a number of times and often vary the composition of the flaked grain bill depending what I have available. Not sure it makes a huge difference.

try it with 2-row and honey malt only. you probably wont tell a difference

 

[dg2001]

Thanks Brau. I will probably do as you do on this beer in the future.

 

[VT_jlee]

I don't do closed transfers with this beer....... I have found it to a be a monumental PITA because of clogging issues.....
Some things you can do if you want to do closed transfer....
1.) Make sure you get the fermenter up on the counter you are using and set in place a couple days before transfer to let things settle out. (Actually - do this no matter how you transfer)
2.) Keep siphon away from the bottom
3.) Maybe cold crash
4.) Some people use a filter
5.) Take the poppets out of the keg posts and take the "guts" out of the black disconnect going on the post

Personally, I just fill the keg with star san, push it all out with CO2. Get everything in place. Release the pressure from the keg, pop the lid, run the tubing from spigot on my fermenter (racking cane for you) and make sure it is long enough to go to the bottom of the keg. Transfer via gravity. I set the lid back on during transfer to minimize the opening. Once the keg gets about half full or 2/3 full, I turn the CO2 on to the keg at a low 2-3 psi to minimize O2 as much as I can. Fill to just below the the CO2 tube. Stop transfer, pull out tubing, Put lid on, open pressure release and let CO2 run through the small head space for 30-60 seconds at low pressure to purge any 02. Then close pressure release and crank up CO2 to 20psi to seal the lid.

** Also, find ways to minimize hop material that is getting moved from one stage to the other - that is a big help. That is why I brew 6.5 gallons and leave wort/beer behind at various stages.

This is what I do and it works perfectly fine. Doing it several times and getting the process you use down is honestly about 80% of the battle. Once you get a process in place and use it, you become very efficient at it.

Thanks Brau. I will probably do as you do on this beer in the future.

Just add my closed transfer process...

I do cold crash. I give it a slow drop down to around 50F over 24 hours (I have a Brewpi so I can program in a slow ramp down). That's enough to drop most of the stuff out. I then move it to my work bench an hour or so before transfer. When transfer time comes, I keep the siphon in the middle of the beer to keep it up off the trub and slowly slide it down a few inches at a time. I also make sure to have one or two extra liquid QDs on hand just in case I get a clog. This generally works well for me, but the first few clogs were pretty frustrating for sure!

 

[Andre3000]

try it with 2-row and honey malt only. you probably wont tell a difference

This. And you can also find flaked grains extremely cheap at the bulk food stores.

For my third attempt (having not even tasted my second yet) I'm probably going to do that:

78% 2-row
15-16% flaked something
2-3% honey malt

 

[MMP126]

Sorry if this was covered already, but there are 143 pages to this thread...haha

What are you guy's force carbonation process for this? And to what vol. CO2 are you carbing to?

 

[grassfeeder]

Just put this recipe together this morning. Should turn out OK......I think

American - Pale 2-Row - 70.9%
American - White Wheat - 9.9%
Flaked Oats - 9.9%
American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) - 4.3%
Corn Sugar - Dextrose - 5%

0.3 oz - Columbus - 60 min
0.75 oz - Columbus - 5 min
2.5 oz - Citra - Hopback at 175 °F
2.5 oz - Mosaic - Hopback at 175 °F
8 oz - Galaxy - Dry Hop - 3 days

Mash at 152

Imperial A38 Juice Yeast (ferment at 67F and climb to 72F)

 

[zonkman]

Anyone have a good 1 gallon recipe? Hops?

 

[grassfeeder]

just scale everything down.

 

[sjfischr]

i’d like to see that test. keep in mind that the english malts are 25kg/55lbs and the yield can be slightly higher than domestics

I'm going to do this on the Monday holiday--Maris Otter for the base malt.

BUT--there's more.

I'm going to add several lupulin powder products to see what happens.
And I have moved way into Idaho #7 as a favorite for the style.
______________
10 lbs Pale Ale, Finest Maris Otter (Simpsons) 61.5 %
2 lbs Oats, Flaked 12.3 %
2 lbs Wheat, Flaked 12.3 %
8.0 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine 3.1 %
8.0 oz Honey Malt 3.1 %
4.0 oz Acid Malt 1.5 %

First Wort
0.25 oz Summit [17.00 %] - 60.0 min

Steep/Whirlpool
2.00 oz Galaxy [14.00 %]
1.00 oz LD Carlson Idaho 7 Hop Hash [31.40 %]
1.00 oz YCH LupuLN2 Mosaic Lupulin Powder [24.10 %]

London Ale III (Wyeast Labs #1318)

High Krausen Hop Addition
1.00 oz YCH LupuLN2 Mosaic Lupulin Powder [24.10 %]

Dry Hop (Keg) Additions

2.00 oz Mosaic (HBC 369)
2.00 oz Galaxy
1.00 oz LD Carlson Idaho 7 Hop Hash [31.40 %] - Dry Hop 4.0 Days

 

[BeachBeerBoo]

Was planning on kegging tomorrow, Day 14, but something came up. Any issues if I let this sit in primary til Day 16-17? It's in a glass carboy, dry hopped on Day 3, airlocked (duh), and in a 70 deg temp controlled keezer.

 

[grassfeeder]

Was planning on kegging tomorrow, Day 14, but something came up. Any issues if I let this sit in primary til Day 16-17? It's in a glass carboy, dry hopped on Day 3, airlocked (duh), and in a 70 deg temp controlled keezer.

2-3 days ain't going to do a thing to it.

 

[popquizkid]

Just put this recipe together this morning. Should turn out OK......I think

American - Pale 2-Row - 70.9%
American - White Wheat - 9.9%
Flaked Oats - 9.9%
American - Carapils (Dextrine Malt) - 4.3%
Corn Sugar - Dextrose - 5%

0.3 oz - Columbus - 60 min
0.75 oz - Columbus - 5 min
2.5 oz - Citra - Hopback at 175 °F
2.5 oz - Mosaic - Hopback at 175 °F
8 oz - Galaxy - Dry Hop - 3 days

Mash at 152

Imperial A38 Juice Yeast (ferment at 67F and climb to 72F)

Curious about the use of Dextrose...does a38 not attenuate very well?

 

[grassfeeder]

Curious about the use of Dextrose...does a38 not attenuate very well?

I've utilized Dextrose is a variety of NEIPA's in the past with good results. I may use i or I may just bump the 2-row a bit.

Avg attenuation with A38 is listed at 74%

 

[Aristoi]

I brewed my first NEIPA a couple weeks ago. It was a NB Beerie Smalls kit. I don't normally do kits but i wanted a decent representation of the style as my baseline and I was rushing to fit it on a specific brew day. I did not have time to research water profile for this style and just used my typical pale ale profile of 2:1 sulfate:cloride 110:55 and later found it should be the other way around or even higher chloride to sulfate 3 or 4:1. Has anyone else done this and what should i expect?

I added 1st dry hops at 3 days and let it climb to 72 to finish. On day 7 i transfer to secondary and took gravity reading and i finished 1.008. 1318 84% attenuation with a mash at 151F. I tried the gravity reading at day 7 and did not taste that good. It was at 72F and seemed to taste like there was a lot of yeast in suspension. Anyway i proceeded with transfer to secondary for 2nd dry hop addition for 4 days and took it out of fermentation fridge to raise another beer while this was in secondary and let it drop to basement temp of 64F. It is now crash cooling and cant wait to keg and try it and hopefully it turned out good.

My question is when you guys dry hop later additions do you do it at 60-70F or at or during crash cooling? Also how many days to crash cool to let this strain drop so haze is not yeast related.

 

[grassfeeder]

I don't ever cold crash. It cools in the keg during carbonation and if anything, first 1/2 pint goes down the drain.

 

[MMP126]

My stuff just gets lost I guess...

Sorry if this was covered already, but there are 143 pages to this thread...haha

What are you guy's force carbonation process for this? And to what vol. CO2 are you carbing to?

 

[hezagenius]

My stuff just gets lost I guess...

Sorry if this was covered already, but there are 143 pages to this thread...haha

What are you guy's force carbonation process for this? And to what vol. CO2 are you carbing to?

I do 14psi at around 35/36F. Not sure what volume that works out to, but it has a decent amount of carbonation. I don't really like these beers on the low side of carb. I do the set-and-forget method since I find these beers typically improve after a few weeks, at least to me.

 

[grassfeeder]

My stuff just gets lost I guess...

Sorry if this was covered already, but there are 143 pages to this thread...haha

What are you guy's force carbonation process for this? And to what vol. CO2 are you carbing to?

Im awaiting this as well. These beers, in my opinion tend to be carved a little differently and I would certainly like to start fine tuning this attribute instead of the set-it and forget it.

 

[tld6008]

I do 14psi at around 35/36F. Not sure what volume that works out to, but it has a decent amount of carbonation. I don't really like these beers on the low side of carb. I do the set-and-forget method since I find these beers typically improve after a few weeks, at least to me.

I do 25 psi for 48 hrs then dial down to 10 for serving. I keep temp at 42f... it is carbed on low side, 2.4 volumes according to calculators.

 

[Braufessor]

Yep - 25lbs or so for 36-48 hours and then I back it off to 10-12 or so. Carbonation seems to settle in pretty nice after 5 days or so. Drinkable at 2-3 days though.