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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Bissell Brothers in Portland, ME has done just that with Diavoletto.

http://www.bissellbrothers.com/diavoletto/

When I had it on draft this summer I was pretty shocked it was 3% abv. Beer still had some body and was loaded with hop aroma and flavor. Great little beer there. Not sure what they are doing to get the amount of body it had at 3% but I was impressed.

all you have to do is up the character malts a bit and mash really high, like 165F with a mashout. You’ll get a great session IPA with great body. Low attenuation yeasts help too
 
Which strains do you prefer from Imperial Yeasts? I have barbarian and citrus on hand and I can blend them to get dry hop too. Sadly, I don't have access to the rest so Juice is out of question. I want to try all 3 at some point but I can have some advice for which one to start with.
just brewed with a20 (Citrus) yesterday, first time using it so hopefully it comes out well. I want to try juice, dryhop, and barbarian but Citrus was the only one I could find that could be shipped to me relatively quickly at a decent price. Unfortunately the one LHBS in my state (NJ) that did sell Imperial, no longer does.
 
HFD7T3O.jpg


I thought I’d share this pic. Quite a few variables though. This was brewed a little over 11 week ago and bottled/kegged about 10 weeks ago. It is the recipe from post 1418. I should have used identical glasses though. Glass on the right is from the Keg. It was dry hopped with 3 oz on day 3 and 3 oz in the Keg. It has held up really well until the last week or so. The aroma is starting to fade and is browning a bit. Glass on the left came directly out of the fermenter from the valve on my SS Brewbucket primed with a domino dot. So it only saw the first dry hop.
 
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I thought I read somewhere in this thread of someone using 3 different strains of yeast to brew this beer. Can't seem to find the post.
 
I thought I read somewhere in this thread of someone using 3 different strains of yeast to brew this beer. Can't seem to find the post.

Not sure what post it was but that may have been me. I brew 15G batches so I regularly split it with 3 strains. I used 1318, S04 and OYL-057. Everyone who tried it preferred the 057. The tropical notes blend in really well. So well in fact that I would have never realized how much aroma was from the yeast had I not split a batch 3 ways. I'm a big fan of that yeast. I even put their advertised temperature range to the test by splitting a batch and fermenting 5G at 67F with another 5G at 90F. IMO, there was no perceivable difference between the two batches. As you might guess, the batch fermented at 90F did finish quicker though.
 
Not sure what post it was but that may have been me. I brew 15G batches so I regularly split it with 3 strains. I used 1318, S04 and OYL-057. Everyone who tried it preferred the 057. The tropical notes blend in really well. So well in fact that I would have never realized how much aroma was from the yeast had I not split a batch 3 ways. I'm a big fan of that yeast. I even put their advertised temperature range to the test by splitting a batch and fermenting 5G at 67F with another 5G at 90F. IMO, there was no perceivable difference between the two batches. As you might guess, the batch fermented at 90F did finish quicker though.

huh. i wasnt a huge fan of 057. it was ok. tasted mostly like apple esters to me. you CAN go hot though
 
I thought I read somewhere in this thread of someone using 3 different strains of yeast to brew this beer. Can't seem to find the post.

You're likely thinking of a reference to the thread where there's been some basic DNA analysis of Tree House Julius, which points to them using a blend of Fermentis S-04, T-58 (Belgian) and WB-06 (wheat beer) for fermentation and a conditioning yeast (likely Fermentis F-2) for natural carbonation and oxygen scrubbing. Experiments suggest that you want something in the region of a 85:10:5 or 90:5:5 ratio for a good result, just a hint of Belgian aromatics coming through without overwhelming it. But some people have preferred that combination to Wyeast 1318. But I guess if you search on T-58 or WB-06 you'll find the post on this thread you were thinking of.
 
all my favourite hops in the one beer, looks amazing, adding this to my brew list, thanks Braufessor, really appreciate it. Nick.
 
Could someone recommend a bittering hop based on what I have? Going with the CMG 1.5/1/.5 schedule for the rest of the hops from 1418.

I have:
CTZ
Centennial
Cascade
Citra
Willamette

I'd think the CTZ or centennial would be best and I have lots of each, but would like to know if anyone has some experience with this combo.

I'm also questioning how much choosing any of these really matters as the bittering (other than maybe the willamette, that's probably not going to fit well with this style).

Not opposed to picking up something else if it would make a big impact, but prefer to burn through what I have.

Thanks.
 
Here is what I think I'm going to try next, but I'm open to hop suggestions. I'll have amarillo, simcoe, citra, mosiac, el dorado, galaxy, and centennial available. I'm going to use the Omega Tropical IPA yeast, unless someone has a better suggestion. It just looks interesting, which is why I was going to use it. I used 1318 on my first and only NEIPA try, which was a similar grain recipe to this (2-row and Golden promise were 50/50 and no honey malt).

Can I throw Amarillo in there and remove the Citra and still have good results? I'm assuming so? Makes for a spendy 5 gallon recipe - will be kegged, figure I better mention that.

upload_2017-11-24_12-59-58.png


upload_2017-11-24_12-57-48.png
 
Whoops, appears I'm a bit low on the hops. Probably move the whirlpool to 2oz of each, and dry hop up to 2oz of all, 1 oz of Citra

that'd be 11.5oz in 5 gallons, I think that should be sufficient...
 
Here is what I think I'm going to try next, but I'm open to hop suggestions. I'll have amarillo, simcoe, citra, mosiac, el dorado, galaxy, and centennial available. I'm going to use the Omega Tropical IPA yeast, unless someone has a better suggestion. It just looks interesting, which is why I was going to use it. I used 1318 on my first and only NEIPA try, which was a similar grain recipe to this (2-row and Golden promise were 50/50 and no honey malt).

Can I throw Amarillo in there and remove the Citra and still have good results? I'm assuming so? Makes for a spendy 5 gallon recipe - will be kegged, figure I better mention that.

View attachment 547018

View attachment 547017

Here is my 2 cents. Up your flaked additions to equal about 15% of the grain bill in total.

I wold also up the Citra to equal the Galaxy and replace the Simcoe with something else like a Mosaic, Centennial, Azacca, Amarillo.....something of that nature.
 
I thought simcoe as I had it in a NEIPA a few weeks back. I'll have to look it up and double check the dry hop.
Thanks for the input
 
I thought simcoe as I had it in a NEIPA a few weeks back. I'll have to look it up and double check the dry hop.
Thanks for the input

I have found simcoe to work really well. It is probably my #4 hop for this beer after Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Usually, when I use it, I am using it in place of the galaxy and blending it with Citra/Mosaic.
The others that Grassfeeder suggested would all be on my short list too.
 
Yes that's the one. I'm thinking this is what most breweries do to get their "signature" taste.. I think I'm going to try this. Thanks!
 
I used Galaxy/Denali/Apollo in my latest NEIPA with M36 yeast - looking forward to it. It's still in primary.
 
Just want to thank Braufessor for an incredible recipe and everyone elrfor the advice. Brewed this last weekend but didn't have high hopes for it as brew day didn't go smoothly. Added the second set of dry hops yesterday so decided to take a sample to taste and check gravity. Tasted incredible and gravity was down to 1.013.

Used Yeast Bay Vermont yeast. Don't have space to brew the blonde ale to get the yeast going so did a big yeast starter, split it in two so have one for the next batch and made another starter for this brew with the other half. Was shocked to see the yeast get down that low from what I read about the first generation finishing high. Would what I did with the yeast basically make my starter a second generation? Airlock was bubbling again last night and I raised the temperature to 70° so hopefully it will drop another few points.

This will be my first attempt at kegging so hopefully all goes well. I'e got a Co2 transfer set up for my fermonster so hopefully that works too as I want to keep oxygen out of this beer as much as possible. Just have a question about kegging. I can't seem to find details now but remember Braufessor saying he carbonates to about 30psi of press for a couple of days then drops to serving pressure of around 12psi. Is this force carbonation? Do I need to rock the keg back and forth or will leaving it alone in the keg for a few days at 30psi do the trick? Hoping to keg Wednesday when I get home from work, will Saturday to Wednesday be long enough for the second dry hop?

Going to brew this again before Christmas and going to try the new method of one big dry hop. Also can' g Galaxy hops at the minute and only have around 2oz left so going with Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. Would like to use up the 2oz of Galaxy so when would be best to use this, whirlpool or dryhop? I'll post up a photo of the end product next weekend, very excited to try it now.
 
Used Yeast Bay Vermont yeast. Don't have space to brew the blonde ale to get the yeast going so did a big yeast starter, split it in two so have one for the next batch and made another starter for this brew with the other half.

Also can' g Galaxy hops at the minute and only have around 2oz left so going with Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. Would like to use up the 2oz of Galaxy so when would be best to use this, whirlpool or dryhop? I'll post up a photo of the end product next weekend, very excited to try it now.

Use the 2oz of galaxy in your blonde.
 
Is this force carbonation? Do I need to rock the keg back and forth or will leaving it alone in the keg for a few days at 30psi do the trick?

Yes, carbing it up under pressure in a keg is "forced carbonation". No rocking necessary - I use 30psi for a day, then 20 for the 2nd day, then I turn it down to 8-10 psi to serve.
 
I brewed on on Friday. Chilled to 65F, next day I was 67F with some activity. The basement was 65f so I didn't hook my chiller up. This AM it was in fermenting fast and temp was 72F, basement still was 65f.

I should have hooked my chiller up to the conical....
 
Just want to thank Braufessor for an incredible recipe and everyone elrfor the advice. Brewed this last weekend but didn't have high hopes for it as brew day didn't go smoothly. Added the second set of dry hops yesterday so decided to take a sample to taste and check gravity. Tasted incredible and gravity was down to 1.013.

Used Yeast Bay Vermont yeast. Don't have space to brew the blonde ale to get the yeast going so did a big yeast starter, split it in two so have one for the next batch and made another starter for this brew with the other half. Was shocked to see the yeast get down that low from what I read about the first generation finishing high. Would what I did with the yeast basically make my starter a second generation? Airlock was bubbling again last night and I raised the temperature to 70° so hopefully it will drop another few points.

This will be my first attempt at kegging so hopefully all goes well. I'e got a Co2 transfer set up for my fermonster so hopefully that works too as I want to keep oxygen out of this beer as much as possible. Just have a question about kegging. I can't seem to find details now but remember Braufessor saying he carbonates to about 30psi of press for a couple of days then drops to serving pressure of around 12psi. Is this force carbonation? Do I need to rock the keg back and forth or will leaving it alone in the keg for a few days at 30psi do the trick? Hoping to keg Wednesday when I get home from work, will Saturday to Wednesday be long enough for the second dry hop?

Going to brew this again before Christmas and going to try the new method of one big dry hop. Also can' g Galaxy hops at the minute and only have around 2oz left so going with Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. Would like to use up the 2oz of Galaxy so when would be best to use this, whirlpool or dryhop? I'll post up a photo of the end product next weekend, very excited to try it now.

Use the galaxy in the dry hop, not flame out, if you only have 2 ounces.

Don't rock the keg - just set it in that 30psi range and leave it for a couple days, then take a pour a sample and see where it is at and how much you want to back off the pressure.

Saturday - wednesday is long enough for the flavor aspect of the dry hop.... bigger issue might be how well the hops have settled out as far as transfer issues.
 
Use the galaxy in the dry hop, not flame out, if you only have 2 ounces.

Don't rock the keg - just set it in that 30psi range and leave it for a couple days, then take a pour a sample and see where it is at and how much you want to back off the pressure.

Saturday - wednesday is long enough for the flavor aspect of the dry hop.... bigger issue might be how well the hops have settled out as far as transfer issues.
Thanks Bruafessor and everyone else for the kegging tips. I put my first round of dry hops in a hop bag and the second round went into one of those 300 micron hop spiders, will this help with settlement issues? I think I might be slightly rushing things in regards to having it ready for the weekend, just dying to try it out as soon as possible. I might wait till Friday or Saturday so. I had toyed with the idea if cold crashing on Wednesday morning but terrified of oxygenating the beer.

I have seen something on here with a sandwich bag tied around the airlock the Co2 out into the bag, has anyone tried something like that? Would racking the beet to the keg and crash for 24 hours then adding Co2 be a better option to carb be a better option? I will also attach a dip tube screen to my racking cane to reduce the amount of debris going into the keg.
 
For those who have the possibility to primary co2 transfer to the keg, I must say that since I ferment under co2 and transfer with this kit (picture) (I bought all the hardware pieces from an old post here so I do not take credit), my NEIPA have greatly increased on overall quality. You just have to turn the valve and connect the QD and voila. Just want to share my experience and how it has smoothed my transfer process for those who are lazy just like me.

On my last batch of this NEIPA, I tried what Braufessor said about dropping all the dry hop at day2 until the end (14 days in my case) and it worked really good! no harshness, no grassy flavor at all. I'm gonna stick to this process instead of 2 dry hop charge.

I don't know how many versions of this recipe I brewed, but each time I cold crash for 2 days, I never clogged a QD or a keg post. I'm not using any filter.

IMG_20171125_140324.jpg

IMG_20171125_140315.jpg
 
For those who have the possibility to primary co2 transfer to the keg, I must say that since I ferment under co2 and transfer with this kit (picture) (I bought all the hardware pieces from an old post here so I do not take credit), my NEIPA have greatly increased on overall quality. You just have to turn the valve and connect the QD and voila. Just want to share my experience and how it has smoothed my transfer process for those who are lazy just like me.

On my last batch of this NEIPA, I tried what Braufessor said about dropping all the dry hop at day2 until the end (14 days in my case) and it worked really good! no harshness, no grassy flavor at all. I'm gonna stick to this process instead of 2 dry hop charge.

I don't know how many versions of this recipe I brewed, but each time I cold crash for 2 days, I never clogged a QD or a keg post. I'm not using any filter.

IMG_20171125_140324.jpg

IMG_20171125_140315.jpg

Almost identical setup here. Works like a champ every time.
 
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