New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[phyllobeddo]

After brewing 66 AG batches since 2014, on a whim I brewed an extract batch a couple of weeks ago.* It was kinda nice, actually.* No need to run my mill, no water chemistry additions, no mash, etc.* I have four kids and time is a premium. It was a simple Helles using Hersbrucker hops that had been stored in the freezer for a while.* 3# of Pils DME with no steeping grains.* I haven't tasted it yet, but that got me thinking about trying an extract batch for a NE IPA.* (oh the horror!)
*
Would something like the following work for an extract batch?
*
2.5 Gallon batch
*
3.5# Wheat DME
8 oz Flaked oats (steep)
2 oz Honey malt (steep)
*
Pour 3.25 Gallons RO into BK and add oats and honey malt to steep until water reaches ~155 to 160 degrees.* Pull oats and honey malt and mix in DME.* Bring to a boil and boil for 30 minutes.* No boil hops.* At flameout add whirlpool hops and soak for 3-5 minutes.* Drop temp to 175 and steep an additional 30 to 45 minutes.* Cool to ~70 and then pour it up and pitch yeast.* Dry hop like normal.

 

[stickyfinger]

flaked oats need to be mashed

 

[jakturner]

I posted a couple pages back about an extract brew I made, turned out pretty good. All wheat dme+plus some natural carbing via spunding valve made a pretty creamy beer. I was surprised. I didn't even boil for 30 mins, I just brought it to boil for 5 mins to sterilize every thing. Threw in the FO hops and whirlpooled for 30 mins. Got plenty of bitterness from that. Give it a try, the high amount of wheat in the dme (55% I think) boost the mouthfeel.

 

[EndOfLine]

I want to echo what had already been said. Yes you can make an extract NE IPA, and yes it does taste good! I have done a few, also because of time constraints. For a 6 gallon batch I have used 6lbs of DME with 6-7 gallons of RO water.

However I have not tried one with wheat dme. That will be on my to do list.

 

[slym2none]

LAZY EXTRACT BREWERS UNITE!

 

[jakturner]

LAZY EXTRACT BREWERS UNITE!

Power to the proletariat!

I ended up buying like 15 lbs of wheat dme from homebrewsupply.com when they were selling off there back stock of supplies for 40% off. I use it to make quick sour berliners, goses and the like. But I always stick to all grain with with IPAs and stouts. But I'll definitely use some to make another batch of NEIPA, I just grew up a big starter of F1-C4 yeast (wlp644+Conan hybrid from HBT user Suregork) I'll post results

 

[fourfarthing]

On the yeast coversation; 1318 floccs hard, but it floccs fast, so it doesn't always drag down all of the hop matter, which is also (I believe) why all of the hop oils find protein friends to stick around on to make it to our mouths.

I have had success using a 50/50 1318/Conan to 'clean up' some of that residual dry hop sharpness.

 

[phyllobeddo]

I posted a couple pages back about an extract brew I made, turned out pretty good. All wheat dme+plus some natural carbing via spunding valve made a pretty creamy beer. I was surprised. I didn't even boil for 30 mins, I just brought it to boil for 5 mins to sterilize every thing. Threw in the FO hops and whirlpooled for 30 mins. Got plenty of bitterness from that. Give it a try, the high amount of wheat in the dme (55% I think) boost the mouthfeel.

Oh boy! Oh boy! Oh boy! Five minute boil time! That sounds like a phenomenal idea. Seems I need to ditch the flaked oats and honey malt idea or do a mini mash. I'll omit a mini mash for now. So maybe ~2.6 gallons RO, 3.5# wheat DME, five minute boil then whirlpool hops then cool to 175 and soak for 30-45 minutes. Gots to try it!

Flameout hops (Drop in @ flameout and soak for ~3-5 minutes then cool to 175 and soak for 30-45 minutes)
2 oz Galaxy
2 oz Mosaic
1 oz Citra
*
Dry Hop (4-5 days before kegging)
2 oz Galaxy
1 oz Mosaic

Will probably use WLP095 for this one.

 

[LateraLex]

While we are on the subject of cutting corners - how about dry yeast. Has anyone done any side by side comparisons? The liquid yeast with its low shelf life and need for starters is the biggest pain in my brew day (more like brew week).

 

[phyllobeddo]

While we are on the subject of cutting corners - how about dry yeast. Has anyone done any side by side comparisons? The liquid yeast with its low shelf life and need for starters is the biggest pain in my brew day (more like brew week).

My first attempt would/will be S-04. I've used it successfully in the Zombie Dust Clone recipe on here. I just haven't got around to trying S-04 with a NE IPA recipe.

 

[TomRep]

I used S04, one pack rehydrated, and it was the best batch out of four that I did so far. Just used it again on one on Tuesday and am hoping for the same results.

 

[tld6008]

I also brewed the Braufessors recipe using SO4, I bottle and have been drinking is since the 3rd day.... its amazing! While drinking it I have been struggling with getting a viable pack of wlp 095 to brew the Blonde ale to harvest the yeast for future NEIPAs. On my 3rd attempt I got one that kicked off in the starter. I multiplied it 3 times and pitched it today. Its been eight hours and no action in the carboy yet. The SO4 took off in less than an hour

 

[Northern_Brewer]

While we are on the subject of cutting corners - how about dry yeast. Has anyone done any side by side comparisons? The liquid yeast with its low shelf life and need for starters is the biggest pain in my brew day (more like brew week).

See the thread on here about trying to clone Tree House Julius - it looks like Tree house use a blend of Fermentis dry yeasts as a way of getting a consistent blend of yeast, they seem to be using S-04+WB-06+T-58 in a ratio of something like 83:12:5 and people who've tried a direct comparison reckons that blend compares favourably to 1318.

 

[slym2none]

LAZY EXTRACT BREWERS UNITE!

FTR - I was poking fun at some Adam Henry that called me a lazy extract brewer, even though at that point, I had switched to AG brewing.

Hi, ApplesCrap!

 

[TimmyWit]

The flocculation of the yeast you use, and how early you add dry hops (for example, high krausen) will determine how many small hop flakes you have In solution. The hop bits will def cause a burn/green/grass flavor that will go away will cold conditioning/finings.

I find that a high flocking yeast. Such as 002 (fullers) will flock with a lot of the hop debris

I think you are on to something here. I went from dry hopping on days 5 and 10 on the first batch to days 4 and 7 on the next two batches. I also increased the hops from two 3oz additions to two 4oz additions for the 2nd and 3rd batches. The first batch was clean. The middle batch I picked up a bit of the burn. I would consider it sort of a harsh bitterness. This last batch I am definitely picking up more of it. I am even considering getting one of those inline filters. The first batch I used OYL-057. The third batch was split with (left to right) OYL-057, 1318, S-04.

It also seems like haze retention is directly related to the dry hop timing. The other pic is my first batch that I dry hopped on day 5 and 10 with 3oz each. Still a great looking beer but nowhere near the haze that I got from the second or third batch.

 

[milldoggy]

I think you are on to something here. I went from dry hopping on days 5 and 10 on the first batch to days 4 and 7 on the next two batches. I also increased the hops from two 3oz additions to two 4oz additions for the 2nd and 3rd batches. The first batch was clean. The middle batch I picked up a bit of the burn. I would consider it sort of a harsh bitterness. This last batch I am definitely picking up more of it. I am even considering getting one of those inline filters. The first batch I used OYL-057. The third batch was split with (left to right) OYL-057, 1318, S-04.

It also seems like haze retention is directly related to the dry hop timing. The other pic is my first batch that I dry hopped on day 5 and 10 with 3oz each. Still a great looking beer but nowhere near the haze that I got from the second or third batch.

I have an inline filter and tested it on a non dry hopped batch to work any kinks out. Found to bleed the air out of it, you need to run it opposite from what they tell you. Have a NEIPA in the conical now, will post results, it will have 10oz in the dry hop(10g).

 

[centrical]

I think you are on to something here. I went from dry hopping on days 5 and 10 on the first batch to days 4 and 7 on the next two batches. I also increased the hops from two 3oz additions to two 4oz additions for the 2nd and 3rd batches. The first batch was clean. The middle batch I picked up a bit of the burn. I would consider it sort of a harsh bitterness. This last batch I am definitely picking up more of it.

So let me get this straight - you are theorizing that you get less burn (due to less suspended hops) if you dry hop *later*? And how long do you leave the dry hops in - say if you hop at day 10?

 

[duelerx]

Guys something is coming up from Lallemand.

 

[TimmyWit]

So let me get this straight - you are theorizing that you get less burn (due to less suspended hops) if you dry hop *later*? And how long do you leave the dry hops in - say if you hop at day 10?

Yes, that has been my observation over 3 batches. But it will take someone smarter than me to explain if there is a scientific reason if/why this would be possible. My theory is that something happens during an active fermentation that alters the hop matter making it more buoyant. The less fermentation activity the dry hops have to deal with, the less buoyant they become.

The dry hop I did on day 10 was transferred to the serving kegs on day 14. The dry hop that was added on day 7 was transferred to the serving kegs on day 10.

With that first batch that ended up being the least hazy and cleanest, the first couple pours were the haziest of any batch; downright murky actually. That also seems to support the theory that something was dropping out of that batch for some reason that is not dropping out of the other two. For reference, I added that other pic again. That is the exact same batch, just a few pours and a week or so later.

The only other significant variable is that I used flaked wheat with the first batch, flaked oats with the second, and a combination of the two for the third batch.

 

[isomerization]

Guys something is coming up from Lallemand.

I would guess that is the dry yeast equivalent to Conan that was hinted at in the TH yeast thread!!

 

[Braufessor]

Sorry I have been pretty negligent checking in - start of school year/coaching has me in survival mode just trying to stay caught up at work.

I currently have my post #1418 recipe on tap - but I used Kolsch yeast in it. (WL029) I had run the yeast through a Kolsch and an Alt. It is a good beer - but definitely less hazy than typical with 1318/conan/etc. Even 1272 has given me a hazier beer. Overall, the beer is good - but it comes off a touch thin/a touch to clean..... Not that a clean beer is bad - but my NEIPA tend to come off as full, and the hops are more mouth-coating. This one almost seemed like more of an "IPA Light." Nothing inherently wrong with it, but I would not say it is my favorite, and I would probably not use the yeast in it again.

I have a fresh batch of the #1418 recipe in the fermenter right now..... 1318 yeast in this one.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

I have a fresh batch of the #1418 recipe in the fermenter right now..... 1318 yeast in this one.

Mine is 8 days now with 1318. Did not do any temp control. Room stayed between 72-78. I put the bucket in water sinces it's a much better heat conductor. Going to give it 2 more days before checking. OG was 1.043...intended low abv.

 

[mintyice]

1318 likes to start around 62-64 and end around 70-72. Primary around 74 always tasted slightly stressed to me.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind as time goes on. I don't have enough experience to know what characteristics 'stressed' yeast would impart into a beer.

 

[Beerdrinker85]

Mine is 8 days now with 1318. Did not do any temp control. Room stayed between 72-78. I put the bucket in water sinces it's a much better heat conductor. Going to give it 2 more days before checking. OG was 1.043...intended low abv.

I have a batch of this recipe that was brewed 17 days ago with 1318.
66F for 5 days and resting at 69-71F. (Inside fermenter temperature)
This beast finished at 1.010 7 days after fermentation started. It's the 1st generation. I Mashed at 150. OG was 1.060
I'm kinda surprise it finished so low. (was aiming for 1.013 according to Beersmith)

It's now on cold crash and I'm kegging it this saturday.
sample taste so good. I harvested some yeast to give it 3-4 more drive.

I'm brewing this recipe again in 3 weeks with WLP644.

 

[grassfeeder]

why cold crash? Just keg it and it'll crash itself.

 

[duelerx]

Sorry I have been pretty negligent checking in - start of school year/coaching has me in survival mode just trying to stay caught up at work.

I currently have my post #1418 recipe on tap - but I used Kolsch yeast in it. (WL029) I had run the yeast through a Kolsch and an Alt. It is a good beer - but definitely less hazy than typical with 1318/conan/etc. Even 1272 has given me a hazier beer. Overall, the beer is good - but it comes off a touch thin/a touch to clean..... Not that a clean beer is bad - but my NEIPA tend to come off as full, and the hops are more mouth-coating. This one almost seemed like more of an "IPA Light." Nothing inherently wrong with it, but I would not say it is my favorite, and I would probably not use the yeast in it again.

I have a fresh batch of the #1418 recipe in the fermenter right now..... 1318 yeast in this one.

Braufessor have you tried brewing this beer with only hop bursting, or no bittering hops at 60 min?

 

[Beerdrinker85]

why cold crash? Just keg it and it'll crash itself.

I'm doing no oxygen co2 transfer. If I don't cold crash I'm always clogging.

I just have to push a bottom on my controller and it's cold crash itself...
while would I don't want to?

 

[dukedevil0]

Here was my first brew of this recipe (or at least similar recipe). Came out great! Better than some commercial examples of the style that I've had, and it was a hit at our block party, lots of positive comments and killed the keg before the night was over. Thanks Braufessor for the recipe!

My changes:
-Citra/Mosaic/Amarillo
-30 min boil
-additions were only:
10 min (1:1:1oz)
whirlpool @ 155F, and the two dry hops (both in primary) (all 1.33:1.33:1.33 oz)

 

[grassfeeder]

I'm doing no oxygen co2 transfer. If I don't cold crash I'm always clogging.

I just have to push a bottom on my controller and it's cold crash itself...
while would I don't want to?

I just figured it would be a wasted extra step. I also direct transfer but I also lose bag my dry hops as well so I don't ever clog.