New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[dukedevil0]

Brewing this recipe again this monday, same OP updated version but going with Nelson Sauvin/Galaxy/Simcoe
WY1318 (1st generation)
200Cl:100So4
Gonna push the chloride higher and higher to see where's my limit.

Brewed another version 2 weeks ago with Amarillo/Citra/Mosaic (I was out of galaxy)
YeastBay Vermont Ale 4th generation
180Cl:70So4
Kegging it tomorrow finished at 1.012

Can't stop brewing this perfect NEIPA recipe.

I also just kegged a batch with Amarillo/Citra/Mosaic but kept the 1318. Did you do equal hop amounts 1:1:1 or another ratio? (I did equal)

 

[Beerdrinker85]

I also just kegged a batch with Amarillo/Citra/Mosaic but kept the 1318. Did you do equal hop amounts 1:1:1 or another ratio? (I did equal)

I did equal flameout/hopstand/dryhop
30min HopStand @ 160
6.5 gal batch (6 in fermenter), total hops:12 oz

One of my next experiment will be hopstanding at 180 to see if there is really a difference. I see many ppl whirlpooling at 180.
I think I did it once and saw no difference in tasting.

 

[olotti]

Yea, it was 1318! But the first batch was super murky, & the 2nd is decently clear...

I read your initial post and grains like oats, wheat, etc don't add haze maybe a little but their not the sole reason. I believe it's the insane amount of hops used plus the dry hopping during active fermentation plus another dry hop that give haze. I use 1318 almost exclusively for my neipas, just a preference as it's given me what I've wanted but I did just use 04 on my latest due to time constraints for a starter and it's proper neipa haze. I also hopstand with anywhere from 6-8 oz and do another double dry hop with 4oz during day 3 usually and another 4oz 5 days later so I use about 1lb of hops in a typical 5 gal batch for a neipa whether it's 6% or 8% and they always look, taste and smell the part. I'm not trying to showboat on my hop use as I know others go even bigger but just trying to tell ya what I've done in my 2yrs of making these beers and how it's effected the finished beer.

 

[olotti]

I also just kegged a batch with Amarillo/Citra/Mosaic but kept the 1318. Did you do equal hop amounts 1:1:1 or another ratio? (I did equal)

Just adding thoughts but if they're similar in aa I'll add 1:1 but if they're diff like way diff like Amarillo which is usually in the 7%aa vs cites or mosaic in the 12-14%aa I'll add more Amarillo if I want it's orange, tangerine flavor to not be completely bowled over by the heavier hops. In this case frankly I'd do a 2:1:1 since you'd have to double the amount of Amarillo to keep up with the heavier citra and mosaic hops. This is what i do for a IPA I make with Amarillo and galaxy and galaxy usually comes in at the 13-15%aa area.

 

[Mordhaus]

Weird. Maybe there was a mix up at Wyeast!

"Remember Rappin' Duke? Duh-hah, Duh-hah. You never thought that hip hop would take it this far."

Saw the screen name. Had to get that out of my system. Carry on.

 

[Deckers_Beers]

I read your initial post and grains like oats, wheat, etc don't add haze maybe a little but their not the sole reason. I believe it's the insane amount of hops used plus the dry hopping during active fermentation plus another dry hop that give haze. I use 1318 almost exclusively for my neipas, just a preference as it's given me what I've wanted but I did just use 04 on my latest due to time constraints for a starter and it's proper neipa haze. I also hopstand with anywhere from 6-8 oz and do another double dry hop with 4oz during day 3 usually and another 4oz 5 days later so I use about 1lb of hops in a typical 5 gal batch for a neipa whether it's 6% or 8% and they always look, taste and smell the part. I'm not trying to showboat on my hop use as I know others go even bigger but just trying to tell ya what I've done in my 2yrs of making these beers and how it's effected the finished beer.

Ah, that's interesting, I thought it was a combo of the flaked grains along with the yeast & the dry-hopping during primary fermentation. So you're saying the most important part is the dry-hopping?

I had read previously that flaked oats are a good addition for a brighter hazy color. My 1st batch didn't have any oats, & was that kind of darker orange-y color some neipa's have. In the 2nd batch (w/ a full lb of flaked oats), my hydrometer samples were super hazy & bright. but then they cleared up after bottling...

In both of my batches, I used a full lb of hops in a 5 gallon batch, but I put the 1st dry-hop addition in on day 2 on the 1st batch (very hazy), & day 4 on the 2nd batch (pretty clear). Maybe the fermentation wasn't high enough on the 4th day, & I should've done the 2nd or 3rd?

Thanks for the help!

 

[cheesebach]

In my experience, the long-lasting haze is a result of the pre-fermentation process. My unscientific hypothesis is that it's an interaction of the flaked grains and large amount of late hops. The beers that didn't lose their hazy character after almost 2 months in the keg were just as hazy in the sample I pulled post-boil even after letting things settle overnight. The others that were less hazy after the boil (used whirlfloc) got more hazy after fermentation/dry hop, but lost a lot of the haze after 2-3 weeks in the keg (basically ended up back at their pre-fermentation haze level). I no longer use whirlfloc in this style for this reason.

Even without whirlfloc, I haven't ever gotten the same level of haze post-boil in other IPAs that don't use flaked grains but have similar water profiles and quantities of late hops additions.

 

[stickyfinger]

In my experience, the long-lasting haze is a result of the pre-fermentation process. My unscientific hypothesis is that it's an interaction of the flaked grains and large amount of late hops. The beers that didn't lose their hazy character after almost 2 months in the keg were just as hazy in the sample I pulled post-boil even after letting things settle overnight. The others that were less hazy after the boil (used whirlfloc) got more hazy after fermentation/dry hop, but lost a lot of the haze after 2-3 weeks in the keg (basically ended up back at their pre-fermentation haze level). I no longer use whirlfloc in this style for this reason.

Even without whirlfloc, I haven't ever gotten the same level of haze post-boil in other IPAs that don't use flaked grains but have similar water profiles and quantities of late hops additions.

You don't NEED flaked grains at all for haze. They may contribute at times, but I have found that the yeast can make a huge difference, and the hops can make a huge difference. Some varietals of hops and especially in large amounts (duh) created more haze. Also, some yeast can hang around forever, 1318 is always hazy for me with a lot of hops.

 

[MrBlackrock]

Latest batch

Looks tasty.

Didnt have rapid acces to the yeast so went with Nottingham X 2 (just in case)

Hopefully will turn out good.

Oh, also subbed Galaxy for Azacca(Didnt have any galaxy)

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

This sucker still has some punch at 2 months old. Simcoe, Mosaic, Citra. Dry hops were all 1oz Cryo Hops.

View attachment 1504702679258.jpg

 

[stickyfinger]

This sucker still has some punch at 2 months old. Simcoe, Mosaic, Citra. Dry hops were all 1oz Cryo Hops.

kegged any more IPAs?

 

[MMJfan]

I brewed up a variation based on the OP's recipe this past weekend and I can't wait to see how it turns out!

I bittered with Columbus @60. I then added 2 oz. of Citra, 2 oz. of Mosaic and 1 oz. of Amarillo at flameout and the same amount of Citra/Mosaic/Amarillo at a hopstand at 180F. And I'm planning on dry hopping tomorrow with the same amount of Citra/Mosaic/Amarillo so that adds up to 1 lb of hops for my brew!

Had to add a blow off tube yesterday and the smells coming out of my bucket were amazing!!!

 

[Pintabone]

Brewed this almost two weeks ago and added the 6 oz dry hop Sunday before leaving on a business trip. Planning on kegging tomorrow or Saturday but the dry hops are all still sitting on top of the beer. Ferm fridge smells great! But wondering, anyone have any best practice of avoiding transferring a ton of hop material when racking to a keg? I use a Fermonster with a spigot so I can obviously stop racking as the beer level gets down near the spigot and just accept the amount of beer lost to the fermenter.

 

[Sbe2]

Brewed this almost two weeks ago and added the 6 oz dry hop Sunday before leaving on a business trip. Planning on kegging tomorrow or Saturday but the dry hops are all still sitting on top of the beer. Ferm fridge smells great! But wondering, anyone have any best practice of avoiding transferring a ton of hop material when racking to a keg? I use a Fermonster with a spigot so I can obviously stop racking as the beer level gets down near the spigot and just accept the amount of beer lost to the fermenter.

If you don't cold crash like me, I have found that moving my fermonster to where I rack, breaks that surface tension, and the hops will fall (Not a physicist).

 

[Braufessor]

If you don't cold crash like me, I have found that moving my fermonster to where I rack, breaks that surface tension, and the hops will fall (Not a physicist).

Yep - I move my fermenters a couple times, including to a counter top a day or two before I rack to keg.... that movement seems to go a long way to helping the hops drop out of suspension and fall to the bottom.

 

[WiscoBrewer]

Brewed this almost two weeks ago and added the 6 oz dry hop Sunday before leaving on a business trip. Planning on kegging tomorrow or Saturday but the dry hops are all still sitting on top of the beer. Ferm fridge smells great! But wondering, anyone have any best practice of avoiding transferring a ton of hop material when racking to a keg? I use a Fermonster with a spigot so I can obviously stop racking as the beer level gets down near the spigot and just accept the amount of beer lost to the fermenter.

What I've done is just give it, carboy in my case, a lil spin back and forth to break the surface tension and they start dropping immediately. Not a shake or violent splashing spin though.

 

[grassfeeder]

I just loosely bag my dry hops and don't have to worry about them dropping out. weigh them down about mid-fermenter with marbles. always had great results that way.

 

[jcglezen]

This sucker still has some punch at 2 months old. Simcoe, Mosaic, Citra. Dry hops were all 1oz Cryo Hops.

Just bought a bunch of Cryo Citra and Mosaic. I've heard that they might be better utilized in the whirlpool/hop stand vs. dry hop. How did yours come out?

 

[Pintabone]

For those that don't cold crash, have you had issues with the first pours out of the keg? I tried to pour a glass yesterday a day after kegging to see the carbonation level (set at 30 PSI) and the beer looked like split pea soup and tasted very harsh. Like eating a hop. I'm assuming from effectively cold crashing in the keg, that the pour was primarily hop material and any residual yeast.

Any experiences with this?

 

[TomRep]

Has anyone who used cryo hops is n these ever noticed a chalky/dryness in the back of your throat when drinking the finished product? Almost like a slight burn or something. I used 3 ounces of cryo in my last batch (2.5 Oz in the whirlpool and a half ounce in dry hops) and I noticed this. It was my fourth NEIPA batch and the first time using cryo and this is the first I noticed this. I thought it may have been from the beer being young (although I drink them all at the same age), but the same feeling/taste was there until the very last pour. I'm brewing a batch either today or tomorrow and am contemplating using them again for this reason.
Tom

 

[grassfeeder]

For those that don't cold crash, have you had issues with the first pours out of the keg? I tried to pour a glass yesterday a day after kegging to see the carbonation level (set at 30 PSI) and the beer looked like split pea soup and tasted very harsh. Like eating a hop. I'm assuming from effectively cold crashing in the keg, that the pour was primarily hop material and any residual yeast.

Any experiences with this?

I haven't had this as I bag the hops and weigh them down. first pour may have some residual yeast but thats it. I usually pour out the first half pint anyhow as my tap usually has some sanitizer in it anyhow.

 

[cheesebach]

Has anyone who used cryo hops is n these ever noticed a chalky/dryness in the back of your throat when drinking the finished product? Almost like a slight burn or something. I used 3 ounces of cryo in my last batch (2.5 Oz in the whirlpool and a half ounce in dry hops) and I noticed this.

I've gotten this effect in both homebrewed and commercial NEIPAs before. The commercial beers that I've noticed it in have been a Pinthouse Pizza brew I had on draft at the brewpub and a Trillium beer I had just yesterday. Not sure on the type of hops used in either of those though.

I've not used Cryo hops before, but the homebrew I did that had it was a Citra/Azacca/Mosaic NEIPA I did earlier this year. It was actually a split batch between WY1318 and Conan. Oddly, the WY1318 batch had this particular off flavor, but I couldn't detect it in the Conan batch. I'm thinking it's a yeast/hop interaction as I can't think of any other way to explain this result, but not sure what causes it or how to prevent it. Seems to me the pros haven't figured this out yet either.

 

[centrical]

I've gotten this effect in both homebrewed and commercial NEIPAs before. The commercial beers that I've noticed it in have been a Pinthouse Pizza brew I had on draft at the brewpub and a Trillium beer I had just yesterday. Not sure on the type of hops used in either of those though.

I've not used Cryo hops before, but the homebrew I did that had it was a Citra/Azacca/Mosaic NEIPA I did earlier this year. It was actually a split batch between WY1318 and Conan. Oddly, the WY1318 batch had this particular off flavor, but I couldn't detect it in the Conan batch. I'm thinking it's a yeast/hop interaction as I can't think of any other way to explain this result, but not sure what causes it or how to prevent it. Seems to me the pros haven't figured this out yet either.

Same here - I call it the "yeast burn", and I've tasted it in some Trillium beers. I just made a beer with Cryo hops, and it has this flavor big time. But I've also gotten it with regular hops. I've also made clean beers using similar recipes and similar but probably not exact processes. I wish I could figure out the cause, and how to avoid it. I have a feeling it has to do with ferment time/temp and maybe dry hops times/temps.

 

[TomRep]

Well as for the fermentation temperature and all the brewing mechanics, I can almost positively rule that out. I'm a bit of an OCD person and when it comes to brewing, that end of it is all identical. The three batches I did before using the cryo hops did not have this effect, except for one batch when I was sampling it out of the fermenter. Once it was on tap, that "flavor" or burn was gone. The only two things that were different in this batch were the cryo hops and I used Imperial Juice yeast for the first time. I'm using S04 in this batch, so maybe I will give the cryo a chance again here and if I get the same effect, brew the same thing next time without the cryo and see if it disappears.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

kegged any more IPAs?

Unfortunately life is chaotic right now. Did buy grains...but IDK when a brew day will arrive.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Just bought a bunch of Cryo Citra and Mosaic. I've heard that they might be better utilized in the whirlpool/hop stand vs. dry hop. How did yours come out?

2 months in had nice flavor. I'd rather cryo hops be the last hops my beer sees personally. A side by side test would be a great idea.

 

[centrical]

..I used Imperial Juice yeast for the first time. I'm using S04 in this batch, so maybe I will give the cryo a chance again here and if I get the same effect, brew the same thing next time without the cryo and see if it disappears.

I am fairly convinced it's a yeast issue - the fact that you used a different yeast enforces that belief. I use 1318, and I know it's different than S-04, but I think they behave similar. Is there a Wyeast equiv to Imperial Juice?

I can not figure out why some people manage to make clean beer with 1318 consistently, but I get seemingly random results. I may not be consistent with my fermentation and conditioning temps. I also seem to get diacetyl now and then with 1318. I love the yeast when it works better than any other, but it's problematic for me.

 

[ttuato]

..... Oddly, the WY1318 batch had this particular off flavor, but I couldn't detect it in the Conan batch....

My vote goes to WY1318 as being the culprit. It appears in every single batch that I brew with WY1318 ---- I no longer use this yeast. I have tried multiple hop combos, but it is always present. I did a direct comparison split batch with Conan - no off flavor it Conan.

Given the success of this yeast as shown on this thread, I ascribe it to be a difference in taste sensitivities / preferences. The unfortunate thing is that in my experience, once your tastebuds are "trained" to perceive a flavor it becomes very obvious when encountered. I can identify wy1318 almost without fail (I don't know how to describe the flavor). Also, I can identify mosaic hops 100% of the time (all I taste is garlic / onion).

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

I am fairly convinced it's a yeast issue - the fact that you used a different yeast enforces that belief. I use 1318, and I know it's different than S-04, but I think they behave similar. Is there a Wyeast equiv to Imperial Juice?

I can not figure out why some people manage to make clean beer with 1318 consistently, but I get seemingly random results. I may not be consistent with my fermentation and conditioning temps. I also seem to get diacetyl now and then with 1318. I love the yeast when it works better than any other, but it's problematic for me.

The last batch was 1318. 2 week fermentation/rest and a couple degrees higher then usual for me at 67. No diacetyl, which has been an issue foe me this year. I bought another batch but probably wont get to it for a while.

 

[rwing7486]

My vote goes to WY1318 as being the culprit. It appears in every single batch that I brew with WY1318 ---- I no longer use this yeast. I have tried multiple hop combos, but it is always present. I did a direct comparison split batch with Conan - no off flavor it Conan.

Given the success of this yeast as shown on this thread, I ascribe it to be a difference in taste sensitivities / preferences. The unfortunate thing is that in my experience, once your tastebuds are "trained" to perceive a flavor it becomes very obvious when encountered. I can identify wy1318 almost without fail (I don't know how to describe the flavor). Also, I can identify mosaic hops 100% of the time (all I taste is garlic / onion).

I agree eon the WY1318 yeast. I brewed a NEIPA and got an excessive burn/astringency when brewing this style of beer. Ive since then brewed the same beer with WY1056 and WY1272 without this "burn" present. So far WY1272 is my go to yeast for this style of beer. In the next couple of weeks I plan to brew a Citra and Azacca NEIPA variant. For the citra hops in the whirlpool and dry hop I plan to use the cryno hops/powder. Ive been told to cut the hop addition by half when using the cryno hops which i plan to follow for this first run. fingers crossed for good results