Are you dissolving them into something prior to adding to the kettle?
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
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Are you dissolving them into something prior to adding to the kettle?
I shoot mine right into the kettle
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Thank you Morrey. Not brewing till after vacation in early June, but we're in the planning stages. Just as fun!
isomerization
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Hop shots are the best!! No wort loss from hip matter, precise IBU control and very smooth bittering. No downside yet for me, have used them on every variety of beer so far.
mikeroesoft
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Where did you find the syringes for the hop shots? I've got a can of extract in my fridge but can't find a good source for the syringes.
emr25
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I bought these syringes and a tray for them from Amazon. Set the extract can in hot water to make it more viscous. Filled 45 syringes in about 15 minutes and put the tray into the freezer. Bittering additions for a few years!
https://www.amazon.com/5ml-Syringe-Only-Luer-Slip/dp/B01JJZ1X84/ref=pd_sim_121_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01JJZ1X84&pd_rd_r=ZKE0K14MRK0A99Q35SB5&pd_rd_w=or5su&pd_rd_wg=0hZuL&psc=1&refRID=ZKE0K14MRK0A99Q35SB5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Z4QWIK/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
hockeybrewer
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Yes you need some base malt to convert the oats. If your that worried about a stuck mash, you could always do a partial mash on your stove with a paint strainer bag.
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It'd just compensate with more base grain for the lower efficiency. Don't even think I'd need to do a PM, just add 1/2lb base and try it. All the liquid gets dumped into the tun and clarified anyway. Thanks for the advice! Got a lighter English Stout fermenting now with plans to make an Imperial with the yeast cake. Some amount of oats will be used so will try then.
Back to topic. I'm severely struggling with IPA off-flavors. Made a 'hazy' Mosaic IPA and bottled as opposed to keg this time. One off flavor is not present this time is a buttery "diacetyl" type flavor which would develop several days after kegging. This might be related to the interaction with hop oils and CO2 pressure as a guy an another thread expressed the exact same issue and found it went away by lowering the pressure.
However, someone with apparently better buds then mine, has detected sulfur compounds in the new Mosaic IPA but none in the stouts nor the Belgiums I had him try. I boil for 75-90min and it's a rolling boil. Is this a pH issue? I used Safeale-05 and had plenty of yeast for the brew. I didn't cold crash but transferred right from primary to bottling bucket CO2 blanketing everything as much as possible...I was getting light headed!
So a lot of trubish material got transferred, way more then usual for me.This is not my normal procedure but was trying an experiment...something different..anything different! Could that be it? I was actually happy with it until he mentioned it so chilling a bomber to try later today to sample.Want to keep brewing IPAs, but just getting frustrating. I brewed many good/great IPAs along with many dumpers and just haven't figured out the determining factor yet between the two. My stouts come out good to great every single time tho so don't feel like it's my process.
If anyone's willing, on my next batch in mid June, I'll brew an IPA and send some for other's to sample to give some advice on what they're detecting and how to fix it. Thanks!
Morrey
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The extract is very thick and after refrigeration, it needs to be gently warmed. I put my filled syringe near my burner and the extract loosens up. Since I made 5mL syringes, it is rare I use a full syringe, usually around 1/2 of that amount. I put mine straight on in when the wort was coming up from mash temps to boil temps...kind of like a FWH. I do a WP with my spoon and add it direct.....all goes fine.
I bought a box of 50 needleless syringes w/caps on Amazon for about $10. I bought 5mL syringes knowing I usually use 2.5mL to give me the bittering addition I typically target for IPAs which is around 20 IBUs of bittering only at 60 min. Of course the majority of the hop bill comes later in the boil or usually after flameout. I typically use half the syringe, recap it and back in the fridge. That stuff is really thick so I floated the unopened can in very warm water until opening. It is kind of tricky to work with so warming is key. Yakima says contact with air degrades quality so I was careful not to leave air pockets in the syringe.
I am starting to branch out and use CTZ extract for everything I brew....not just IPAs. I am doing a Cali Commons tomorrow with a total IBU goal of 35. I'll use 1.5 mL of extract to give me 15 IBUs of bittering, then the remaining 20 IBUs will come from Northern Brewer hops so I'll get the flavor and aroma I need from them.
EndOfLine
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It'd just compensate with more base grain for the lower efficiency. Don't even think I'd need to do a PM, just add 1/2lb base and try it. All the liquid gets dumped into the tun and clarified anyway. Thanks for the advice! Got a lighter English Stout fermenting now with plans to make an Imperial with the yeast cake. Some amount of oats will be used so will try then.
Back to topic. I'm severely struggling with IPA off-flavors. Made a 'hazy' Mosaic IPA and bottled as opposed to keg this time. One off flavor is not present this time is a buttery "diacetyl" type flavor which would develop several days after kegging. This might be related to the interaction with hop oils and CO2 pressure as a guy an another thread expressed the exact same issue and found it went away by lowering the pressure.
However, someone with apparently better buds then mine, has detected sulfur compounds in the new Mosaic IPA but none in the stouts nor the Belgiums I had him try. I boil for 75-90min and it's a rolling boil. Is this a pH issue? I used Safeale-05 and had plenty of yeast for the brew. I didn't cold crash but transferred right from primary to bottling bucket CO2 blanketing everything as much as possible...I was getting light headed!
Want to keep brewing IPAs, but just getting frustrating. I brewed many good/great IPAs along with many dumpers and just haven't figured out the determining factor yet between the two. My stouts come out good to great every single time tho so don't feel like it's my process.
If anyone's willing, on my next batch in mid June, I'll brew an IPA and send some for other's to sample to give some advice on what they're detecting and how to fix it. Thanks!
Braufessor and I had a long conversation about diacetyl in relationship with us 05 after dry hopping. Maybe 200 pages ago?? Basically there is some evidence that us05 (not other Chico strains) sometimes produces diacetyl after dry hopping. It happens randomly, and it is currently baffling those who are researching it now. I believe braufessor still has the link to the article some where?
Our best guess is that the large amounts of dry hops are raising the ph to quickly for this yeast, and perhaps this yeast gets stressed out?
I have personally have had inconsistency with 05 and use other strains now.
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Wow, that is very surprising given everything I've read about 05. It's been my goto so you guys are onto something with the inconsistencies. With all the HBers around these days and many who are truly scientific about their hobby, it makes sense more information and experiences are available. I'll switch over to liquid from now on to see how that fans out. But admittedly the post dry hop diacetyl flavor only started AFTER I began to keg. Never had it bottling prior. Since my chest freezer compressor died, can't do any split batches to test for a while. Thank you for the information!
stickyfinger
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I've gotten diacetyl with US-05 in a barleywine after a massive dryhop. however, there was a good amount of headspace, so it is possible that something happened there as well.
I also did a split batch of west coast IPA using WY1056 a few months ago. I fined half and not the other half. After a month or maybe more in the keg, the fined version tasted decent. The unfined version started to take on a very strong diacetyl character! I was shocked when I tasted both side by side. The fined version after inverting the keg had a decent fruity flavor and not much diacetyl at all. The unfined version was undrinkable to me. now, it could be an infection of course, but I am wondering if the other Chico strains can be susceptible to diacetyl formation as well. i've never gotten that from other IPA yeasts I've used. I hope I don't have an infection issue.
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Thanks for sharing. Hope over the course of time we can figure this out.
Decided I'm going "old school" brewing technique with my next batch including a large dry hop addition and using 2pks-05.
- Mash and boil as usual. (Brew'n water calculations to 5.3ph also)
- Cooling using ice bath to 80F-ish.
- Rack to primary leaving a lot of debris in the kettle and pitch 2pks Safeale-05
- Temp control using water bath/ice cubes.
- Ferment for 17 days.
- Rack to secondary, leaving 2in liquid (a gallon or so in primary) and add large dry hop addition. 7days.
- Use sanitized kitchen strainer to rack off any floaties.
- Rack to bottling bucket leaving 2in liquid (a gallon or so in secondary).
When I did this, I NEVER got a butter flavor eventho I always used 05 back then. My hop flavor may not have lasted long, but that's a different problem. This was prior to me doing short primaries, dry hopping in primary, kegging, cold crashing, plate chilling. My best tasting and cleanest IPA's were made doing this technique...it's all I got for now.
So I experimented a little a couple weeks ago. I brewed 2 very similar beers. Same malt bill and very similar amount and type of hops. The thing I changed was when the hops were added.
Beer 1:
.25 mosaic @ 60 mins
.75 mosaic @10 mins
1 oz mosaic, 1 oz Experimental Grapefruit
1 oz Columbus, 1 oz mosaic & 1 oz Citra hop stand @ 180° for 30’
Dry Hop
1 oz mosaic 1 oz Experimental Grapefruit at pitch
5 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day
Beer 2:
0.25 oz Columbus Hops @ 60 min
0.75 oz Columbus Hops @ 10 min
2 oz Columbus at flameout
Dry Hop
1 oz mosaic 1 oz El Dorado at pitch
4 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day
2 oz mosaic on day 8.
I wanted to see if one over the other had more taste/aroma and which one I favored. I was quite surprised to see that I strongly favored beer 2. It seemed to have better aroma and taste. Not sure why as I moved all flavor/aroma hops to the dry hop. Only used columbus in the boil and post boil. I know this is what trillium does and I have to say it tasted very much like a trillium beer, which is a good thing as they are my favorite brewery.
I am going to continue to experiment with this a little bit. Next week my new 20 gallon kettle should be showing up so going to try a similar beer to beer 2, but it will allow me to use 2 different dry hops to create 2 different beers with the same base. Compare that to a couple beers I brewed last weekend and this weekend using a schedule similar to beer 1.
All interesting stuff and fun to try different things out.
Also I have 2 new NE IPAs in the fermenter with hops I have not really used or tasted before. I have one that is Ekuanot focused and one that only has columbus (for bittering) and El Dorado flameout and dry hop. Then its back to my bread and butter Mosaic focused, LOVE Mosaic!
Beer 1:
.25 mosaic @ 60 mins
.75 mosaic @10 mins
1 oz mosaic, 1 oz Experimental Grapefruit
1 oz Columbus, 1 oz mosaic & 1 oz Citra hop stand @ 180° for 30’
Dry Hop
1 oz mosaic 1 oz Experimental Grapefruit at pitch
5 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day
Beer 2:
0.25 oz Columbus Hops @ 60 min
0.75 oz Columbus Hops @ 10 min
2 oz Columbus at flameout
Dry Hop
1 oz mosaic 1 oz El Dorado at pitch
4 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day
2 oz mosaic on day 8.
I wanted to see if one over the other had more taste/aroma and which one I favored. I was quite surprised to see that I strongly favored beer 2. It seemed to have better aroma and taste. Not sure why as I moved all flavor/aroma hops to the dry hop. Only used columbus in the boil and post boil. I know this is what trillium does and I have to say it tasted very much like a trillium beer, which is a good thing as they are my favorite brewery.
I am going to continue to experiment with this a little bit. Next week my new 20 gallon kettle should be showing up so going to try a similar beer to beer 2, but it will allow me to use 2 different dry hops to create 2 different beers with the same base. Compare that to a couple beers I brewed last weekend and this weekend using a schedule similar to beer 1.
All interesting stuff and fun to try different things out.
Also I have 2 new NE IPAs in the fermenter with hops I have not really used or tasted before. I have one that is Ekuanot focused and one that only has columbus (for bittering) and El Dorado flameout and dry hop. Then its back to my bread and butter Mosaic focused, LOVE Mosaic!
BrewinSoldier
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Just out of curiosity, what size batches are you doing? That's a crap ton of hops for a 5 gallon batch. Maybe that's why I'm not getting the taste and aroma that I'm looking for.
Also, what yeast are you using to get the trillium tasting beer?
Both of my fermenters are taken up right now with a pineapple IPA recipe I came up with, and a cucumber pilsner I made yesterday. Once one is empty Juicy#3 is getting made. Juicy#1 with 1318 was really good, Juicy#2 with Conan turned out bad. Not sure why, but I can't believe it would be the yeast.
Drinking my latest version brewed with 007. Wanted to see if the large whirlpool and dry hops would still add haze to a yeast that drops better than 1318 and well I'm convinced haze is def a part of the large whirlpool, I did 6oz and then a dble dry hop with 4oz at day 4 and another 4oz at day 10 and it's still hazy. One thing I notice is it def doesn't have that yeast bite like a trillium beer or when I use 1318 but the hop profile is still very much the same on the taste and nose. I'll post a pic later if I can.
I have a syringe of Yakima CO2 extract.
Does yours smell really funky, not hoppy at all?
How much would you add for this brew
Just looked at my water report and tried to input it in Bru n Water but got a tad confused.
Just wondering what additions to add as I want a nice juicy mouthfeel for this brew I will be trying
Any help would be appreciated
https://www.unitedutilities.com/serv...eField=WN6+7AH
Just wondering what additions to add as I want a nice juicy mouthfeel for this brew I will be trying
Any help would be appreciated
https://www.unitedutilities.com/serv...eField=WN6+7AH
isomerization
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The color and appearance can be all over the place, so unless it smells like cheese, you're probably good. Remember to keep cold and away from light and O2.
The best way to approximate IBU contribution is to enter the AA% as 61.1 and then convert ml to oz (0.17 oz = 5 ml). I find 5 ml works perfectly for about 30-40 IBU in wort of this gravity. The beauty is you can titrate down or up depending on personal preference.
isomerization
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The link didn't work for me. Safest (and best imo) is to start with RO water from a grocery store type dispenser. They are like $1.50 per 5 gallon if you have your own jugs. Then add gypsum and calcium chloride. The main recipe post (1418?) has recommended levels. I also highly,recommend playing around with the Brun water software until it clicks for you, very valuable resource.
Updated
https://www.unitedutilities.com/ser...quality-search-results/?postcodeField=WN6+7AH
Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm brewing this for my wedding
BrewinSoldier
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Looking at that, it would be easier for you just to start with RO water and follow the additions as mentioned in post 1418.
Just looking at that link, you'd have to start by treating your water for the chlorine(and IMO filtering for best taste). Then you'd have to add more calcium because that's way too low. I like my magnesium at 10ppm but you could probably get away with what yours has. Then, that report doesn't even list chloride or sulfates so you have no idea where to even start on that. It also doesn't list bicarbonates so you dont know where you water sits with that either. If you start with RO, everything across the board you are starting at 0 so you can add and build from there with a program like bru'n water, or use post 1418 if you want to go the easy route. Either that or send a sample of your water to ward labs to have tested. They will break it down and tell you everything you need to know so you can tweak your water.
BrewinSoldier
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Ok well looking at the full version, both your chloride(12ppm) and sulfates(22) are both way too low. You'd need sulfate to be in the 150ppm range and chloride to be in the 75ppm range, or you can swap those two numbers depending on your taste and what you are after. Again, it would be a whole lot easier to start with RO. Otherwise, you can enter your numbers into Bru'n and go from there. Just remember if you use your own water to get the chlorine and chloramine (if your water has it) out before anything else.
Tarpon87
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Just took a FG reading and added second round of dry hop on my red NEIPA. Good melon aroma and flavor. OG was 1.080 and FG came in at 1.022. A little higher than i wanted but i hear that isnt uncommon with fist gen Conan. Should be a good one!
mintyice
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Folks who are dry hopping during primary, how are you getting your hops to sink below the 2-3" of thick krausen?
stickyfinger
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i swirl 1-4x per day and chill to drop them
I just picked up some WLP 095 Burlington Ale, which I believe is White Labs version of Conan. Anyway, I'm brewing up my next attempt at this style over the weekend.
I'm hoping to hear from anyone who has used this. What did you do to keep the diacetyl in check? I'm a little concerned because WL makes a point to mention diacetyl production in their product description.
Is it as simple as ramping the temp up to 72 or so toward the end of fermentation?
Not sure if the following info helps, but I'll be doing a 1 liter starter for a 3.5 gallon batch with an OG around 1.060. I try to pitch an active starter 12-18 hours after I put it on the stir plate as opposed to the chill/decant method.
Thanks!
I'm hoping to hear from anyone who has used this. What did you do to keep the diacetyl in check? I'm a little concerned because WL makes a point to mention diacetyl production in their product description.
Is it as simple as ramping the temp up to 72 or so toward the end of fermentation?
Not sure if the following info helps, but I'll be doing a 1 liter starter for a 3.5 gallon batch with an OG around 1.060. I try to pitch an active starter 12-18 hours after I put it on the stir plate as opposed to the chill/decant method.
Thanks!
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
I've used WLP095 in NEIPA and many other styles now. I love the yeast. It is supposedly similar to the yeast that was used by Greg Noonan at his brew pub in Burlington. Kimmich worked there and possibly took a variant of the yeast with him. This variant possibly has mutated into the Conan strain. This is all speculation, but it seems like a reasonable theory to me.
I've never done a side by side with Conan, but I think it would result in a very similar beer. I've never had diacetyl problems. I always pitch an active or <24hr old starter, usually 1L with the number of cells recommended by the Mr Malty calculator. I usually ferment at either 67 or 68F with temp control probe attached to my carboy with insulation on the outside. I usually add all of my dry hops 72 hrs after pitching yeast (as the krausen is backing off at that point.) I then let the hops rest for about 7 days in the carboy with swirling daily. Finally, chill to drop the hops and then keg with as little O2 as possible. It usually results in a fantastic IPA.
It also makes a great porter, pale ale, stout, black IPA, many styles. It is very clean to my tastes and never really gives off a strange yeast character like Conan and WY1318 have occasionally done for me in the past. It is very rock solid IMHO. I do really like the NEIPAs I've done with Conan and WY1318 though too. Oddly, the WY1318 IPAs seem to have tended to taste better with a little age somehow, like some yeast component fades that I don't like. I'd need to use it more to really nail down if that is true for sure though.
stickyfinger
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Has anyone tried using any of the strains of Brett that are available in this beer? I am intrigued by the Omega Labs YL-210 "Where Da Funk" strain. It says there is a Colorado brewery strain in it, which seems like it must be the Crooked Stave Brett strain that Chad talks about being very low on the barnyard, horse blanket, smoke character and high on the fruit character. My only worry is that the lack of glycerol production might make the beer thin, but it IS a blend of Sacc and Brett in YL-210, so maybe it would work out.
plazola86
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I made one using Funk Weapon#2 from Bootleg Biology. This Brett strains puts out a lot of fruit esters and keeps the funkier barnyard, horse blanket esters low. I loved how the beer came out. It had a Brett smell but the taste was pure fruity goodness, like every type of fruit you could imagine. I used Citra, Mosaic, Azzaca for hops which helped too.
Awesome! Thanks so much for the detailed response. I will follow your fermentation temp schedule for sure. Great to know you've never had any diacetyl issues. This will be my second crack at the style and my first time using a Conan-ish yeast strain. My last NEIPA used WLP 644 and I liked that one quite a bit. I'll be sure to add those dry hops around 72 hours as well. I took the layman's approach last time and just chucked them in after the bulk of fermentation was complete. I definitely want to see what that biotransformation thing is all about.
BrewinSoldier
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So I just got an email from Morebeer today. They just released a new yeast strain that is for NEIPAs. It's WLP095 Burlington Ale yeast. I'll probably order a few to try with my next Juicy IPA.
basisforaday
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Just did a similar version of Braufessor's recipe this weekend. A few minor tweaks to the grainbill and using a Mosaic/Galaxy/Denali combo with Columbus for bittering. My first time using oat Malt instead of flaked oats so we'll see how that goes!
So decided I'm going with bottled water.
Could anyone please help and tell me what additions I need to make the water profile like the recipe. Thx
CalcIum 47
Mag 14
Pot 3
Sod 89
Bicarbonate 301
Chloe 76
Sulphate 18
Nitr 18
Ph 7.5
Thx
Could anyone please help and tell me what additions I need to make the water profile like the recipe. Thx
CalcIum 47
Mag 14
Pot 3
Sod 89
Bicarbonate 301
Chloe 76
Sulphate 18
Nitr 18
Ph 7.5
Thx
OP
OP
I am not quite understanding...... Is the above your "goal" or is that what you are starting with in your bottled water?
In either case - that bicarbonate # is VERY high. You do not want bicarbonate in a beer like this - especially at those levels.
Are you starting with Reverse Osmosis Water??? The bicarbonate should be close to zero.
plazola86
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Do yourself a favor and go read the water science threads. Like many have ALREADY mentioned just start with RO water. I don't get why your so against that! Those numbers are not for RO water or if those are the numbers your shooting for your way off. I'm all for helping but you cant help someone who doesn't want to help themselves.
