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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Kegged my latest version today. First time using Denali hops. Also went citra mosaic and a little simcoe.

Went higher on grain bill so finished at 7.35%.

Obviously still green and uncarbonated but it didn't have that same "juice" and aroma quality as the last batch which followed the base recipe in this thread. The alcohol was much more present (obviously).

For those who have gone higher on the abv, have you experienced the aforementioned as well? Going on vacation in 10 days and bringing the keg so hoping it rounds into form.

Also, from earlier in the thread, the honey malt (.5#) didn't seem to add any residual sweeteness.

Finally- anyone ever do one of these with San Diego super yeast?
 
Of course everyone has their own read on things, but if GMC (Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra) can be beat, I am gonna be surprised.

Even a few days shy of fully carbed....what a winner!!

IMG_0782[3056].JPG
 
Kegged my latest version today. First time using Denali hops. Also went citra mosaic and a little simcoe.

Went higher on grain bill so finished at 7.35%.

Obviously still green and uncarbonated but it didn't have that same "juice" and aroma quality as the last batch which followed the base recipe in this thread. The alcohol was much more present (obviously).

For those who have gone higher on the abv, have you experienced the aforementioned as well? Going on vacation in 10 days and bringing the keg so hoping it rounds into form.

Also, from earlier in the thread, the honey malt (.5#) didn't seem to add any residual sweeteness.

Finally- anyone ever do one of these with San Diego super yeast?


higher ABV should only make the beer better from my experience if all malt. it is richer and fuller. tpo hot of ferment?
 
higher ABV should only make the beer better from my experience if all malt. it is richer and fuller. tpo hot of ferment?


Held at 63 for 8 days and then ambient at 70 for 4 days. I'm thinking it may just need some time to come together. Or at least I'm hoping. It wasn't horrible by any means just not the juice bomb.
 
What's your hop schedule?

I followed the popular recipe (carefully outlining hop schedules) by Braufessor for his NE IPA right here on this thread. In post #1 he modifies a few details and he references this mod in his first post.

He uses several hop combos in his experiments, and I settled on G/M/C as mentioned. I also used 133 Cl and 66 SO4 or basically a 1:2 SO4:Cl ratio. Some reverse this and go 2:1 but I'd be hard pressed to shift anything about my beer.

My kegged beer is nearing 3 weeks in keg now so that makes it around 4 weeks from brew day. I used 1318 yeast which finished in less than 4 days. If you use this yeast be mindful of the quick finish since Braufessor's first dry hop addition goes into primary before beer fully attenuates.

This is well worth the effort. This is the smoothest and best IPA I've had due to good hop presence w/o the sharp bittering aspect I am not fond of. :mug:
 
I don't dry hop in the brew bucket. I transfer into a purged keg with hops suspended in a bag in the keg. The reason for doing this is to harvest the yeast from the bucket as clean as possible.

Here's a link to a blog post I made about the blow off set up and another link to a post about a beer brewed with my new process:

http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/05/blow-off-set-up.html

http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/03/nelson-pale-ale.html

Thanks a ton for that info -- I just purchased that setup for my brewbucket, it looks like it'll make life a lot easier!
 
All my recipes are a variation of the one on page 1. One thing I'm noticing is that the original .75 warrior 60 min hop addition gives more of a "Trilliumlike" bitterness.
Using a 4 mil hopshot is less bitter and closer to a Treehouse smoothness.
 
All my recipes are a variation of the one on page 1. One thing I'm noticing is that the original .75 warrior 60 min hop addition gives more of a "Trilliumlike" bitterness.
Using a 4 mil hopshot is less bitter and closer to a Treehouse smoothness.

I have started liking these Yakima Valley Hop shots. I think they are starting to catch on so I bought the large can and made up a bunch of my own hop shots. My results are excellent using the extract for bittering at 60.
 
I have started liking these Yakima Valley Hop shots. I think they are starting to catch on so I bought the large can and made up a bunch of my own hop shots. My results are excellent using the extract for bittering at 60.

Are you dissolving them into something prior to adding to the kettle?
 
Hop shots are the best!! No wort loss from hip matter, precise IBU control and very smooth bittering. No downside yet for me, have used them on every variety of beer so far.
 
I have started liking these Yakima Valley Hop shots. I think they are starting to catch on so I bought the large can and made up a bunch of my own hop shots. My results are excellent using the extract for bittering at 60.


Where did you find the syringes for the hop shots? I've got a can of extract in my fridge but can't find a good source for the syringes.
 
Where did you find the syringes for the hop shots? I've got a can of extract in my fridge but can't find a good source for the syringes.

I bought these syringes and a tray for them from Amazon. Set the extract can in hot water to make it more viscous. Filled 45 syringes in about 15 minutes and put the tray into the freezer. Bittering additions for a few years!

https://www.amazon.com/5ml-Syringe-Only-Luer-Slip/dp/B01JJZ1X84/ref=pd_sim_121_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01JJZ1X84&pd_rd_r=ZKE0K14MRK0A99Q35SB5&pd_rd_w=or5su&pd_rd_wg=0hZuL&psc=1&refRID=ZKE0K14MRK0A99Q35SB5

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005Z4QWIK/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
You know I never looked into it that hard. Just a mouth feel thing for me. I'll stress over the stuck sparge more then anything..

Yes you need some base malt to convert the oats. If your that worried about a stuck mash, you could always do a partial mash on your stove with a paint strainer bag.
 
Yes you need some base malt to convert the oats. If your that worried about a stuck mash, you could always do a partial mash on your stove with a paint strainer bag.

It'd just compensate with more base grain for the lower efficiency. Don't even think I'd need to do a PM, just add 1/2lb base and try it. All the liquid gets dumped into the tun and clarified anyway. Thanks for the advice! Got a lighter English Stout fermenting now with plans to make an Imperial with the yeast cake. Some amount of oats will be used so will try then.

Back to topic. I'm severely struggling with IPA off-flavors. Made a 'hazy' Mosaic IPA and bottled as opposed to keg this time. One off flavor is not present this time is a buttery "diacetyl" type flavor which would develop several days after kegging. This might be related to the interaction with hop oils and CO2 pressure as a guy an another thread expressed the exact same issue and found it went away by lowering the pressure.

However, someone with apparently better buds then mine, has detected sulfur compounds in the new Mosaic IPA but none in the stouts nor the Belgiums I had him try. I boil for 75-90min and it's a rolling boil. Is this a pH issue? I used Safeale-05 and had plenty of yeast for the brew. I didn't cold crash but transferred right from primary to bottling bucket CO2 blanketing everything as much as possible...I was getting light headed! :) So a lot of trubish material got transferred, way more then usual for me.This is not my normal procedure but was trying an experiment...something different..anything different! Could that be it? I was actually happy with it until he mentioned it so chilling a bomber to try later today to sample.

Want to keep brewing IPAs, but just getting frustrating. I brewed many good/great IPAs along with many dumpers and just haven't figured out the determining factor yet between the two. My stouts come out good to great every single time tho so don't feel like it's my process.

If anyone's willing, on my next batch in mid June, I'll brew an IPA and send some for other's to sample to give some advice on what they're detecting and how to fix it. Thanks!
 
Are you dissolving them into something prior to adding to the kettle?

The extract is very thick and after refrigeration, it needs to be gently warmed. I put my filled syringe near my burner and the extract loosens up. Since I made 5mL syringes, it is rare I use a full syringe, usually around 1/2 of that amount. I put mine straight on in when the wort was coming up from mash temps to boil temps...kind of like a FWH. I do a WP with my spoon and add it direct.....all goes fine.

Where did you find the syringes for the hop shots? I've got a can of extract in my fridge but can't find a good source for the syringes.

I bought a box of 50 needleless syringes w/caps on Amazon for about $10. I bought 5mL syringes knowing I usually use 2.5mL to give me the bittering addition I typically target for IPAs which is around 20 IBUs of bittering only at 60 min. Of course the majority of the hop bill comes later in the boil or usually after flameout. I typically use half the syringe, recap it and back in the fridge. That stuff is really thick so I floated the unopened can in very warm water until opening. It is kind of tricky to work with so warming is key. Yakima says contact with air degrades quality so I was careful not to leave air pockets in the syringe.

I am starting to branch out and use CTZ extract for everything I brew....not just IPAs. I am doing a Cali Commons tomorrow with a total IBU goal of 35. I'll use 1.5 mL of extract to give me 15 IBUs of bittering, then the remaining 20 IBUs will come from Northern Brewer hops so I'll get the flavor and aroma I need from them.
 
It'd just compensate with more base grain for the lower efficiency. Don't even think I'd need to do a PM, just add 1/2lb base and try it. All the liquid gets dumped into the tun and clarified anyway. Thanks for the advice! Got a lighter English Stout fermenting now with plans to make an Imperial with the yeast cake. Some amount of oats will be used so will try then.

Back to topic. I'm severely struggling with IPA off-flavors. Made a 'hazy' Mosaic IPA and bottled as opposed to keg this time. One off flavor is not present this time is a buttery "diacetyl" type flavor which would develop several days after kegging. This might be related to the interaction with hop oils and CO2 pressure as a guy an another thread expressed the exact same issue and found it went away by lowering the pressure.

However, someone with apparently better buds then mine, has detected sulfur compounds in the new Mosaic IPA but none in the stouts nor the Belgiums I had him try. I boil for 75-90min and it's a rolling boil. Is this a pH issue? I used Safeale-05 and had plenty of yeast for the brew. I didn't cold crash but transferred right from primary to bottling bucket CO2 blanketing everything as much as possible...I was getting light headed! :) So a lot of trubish material got transferred, way more then usual for me.This is not my normal procedure but was trying an experiment...something different..anything different! Could that be it? I was actually happy with it until he mentioned it so chilling a bomber to try later today to sample.

Want to keep brewing IPAs, but just getting frustrating. I brewed many good/great IPAs along with many dumpers and just haven't figured out the determining factor yet between the two. My stouts come out good to great every single time tho so don't feel like it's my process.

If anyone's willing, on my next batch in mid June, I'll brew an IPA and send some for other's to sample to give some advice on what they're detecting and how to fix it. Thanks!

Braufessor and I had a long conversation about diacetyl in relationship with us 05 after dry hopping. Maybe 200 pages ago?? Basically there is some evidence that us05 (not other Chico strains) sometimes produces diacetyl after dry hopping. It happens randomly, and it is currently baffling those who are researching it now. I believe braufessor still has the link to the article some where?

Our best guess is that the large amounts of dry hops are raising the ph to quickly for this yeast, and perhaps this yeast gets stressed out?

I have personally have had inconsistency with 05 and use other strains now.
 
Braufessor and I had a long conversation about diacetyl in relationship with us 05 after dry hopping. Maybe 200 pages ago?? Basically there is some evidence that us05 (not other Chico strains) sometimes produces diacetyl after dry hopping. It happens randomly, and it is currently baffling those who are researching it now. I believe braufessor still has the link to the article some where?

Our best guess is that the large amounts of dry hops are raising the ph to quickly for this yeast, and perhaps this yeast gets stressed out?

I have personally have had inconsistency with 05 and use other strains now.

Wow, that is very surprising given everything I've read about 05. It's been my goto so you guys are onto something with the inconsistencies. With all the HBers around these days and many who are truly scientific about their hobby, it makes sense more information and experiences are available. I'll switch over to liquid from now on to see how that fans out. But admittedly the post dry hop diacetyl flavor only started AFTER I began to keg. Never had it bottling prior. Since my chest freezer compressor died, can't do any split batches to test for a while. Thank you for the information!
 
Braufessor and I had a long conversation about diacetyl in relationship with us 05 after dry hopping. Maybe 200 pages ago?? Basically there is some evidence that us05 (not other Chico strains) sometimes produces diacetyl after dry hopping. It happens randomly, and it is currently baffling those who are researching it now. I believe braufessor still has the link to the article some where?

Our best guess is that the large amounts of dry hops are raising the ph to quickly for this yeast, and perhaps this yeast gets stressed out?

I have personally have had inconsistency with 05 and use other strains now.

I've gotten diacetyl with US-05 in a barleywine after a massive dryhop. however, there was a good amount of headspace, so it is possible that something happened there as well.

I also did a split batch of west coast IPA using WY1056 a few months ago. I fined half and not the other half. After a month or maybe more in the keg, the fined version tasted decent. The unfined version started to take on a very strong diacetyl character! I was shocked when I tasted both side by side. The fined version after inverting the keg had a decent fruity flavor and not much diacetyl at all. The unfined version was undrinkable to me. now, it could be an infection of course, but I am wondering if the other Chico strains can be susceptible to diacetyl formation as well. i've never gotten that from other IPA yeasts I've used. I hope I don't have an infection issue.
 
I've gotten diacetyl with US-05 in a barleywine after a massive dryhop. however, there was a good amount of headspace, so it is possible that something happened there as well.

I also did a split batch of west coast IPA using WY1056 a few months ago. I fined half and not the other half. After a month or maybe more in the keg, the fined version tasted decent. The unfined version started to take on a very strong diacetyl character! I was shocked when I tasted both side by side. The fined version after inverting the keg had a decent fruity flavor and not much diacetyl at all. The unfined version was undrinkable to me. now, it could be an infection of course, but I am wondering if the other Chico strains can be susceptible to diacetyl formation as well. i've never gotten that from other IPA yeasts I've used. I hope I don't have an infection issue.

Thanks for sharing. Hope over the course of time we can figure this out.

Decided I'm going "old school" brewing technique with my next batch including a large dry hop addition and using 2pks-05.

- Mash and boil as usual. (Brew'n water calculations to 5.3ph also)
- Cooling using ice bath to 80F-ish.
- Rack to primary leaving a lot of debris in the kettle and pitch 2pks Safeale-05
- Temp control using water bath/ice cubes.
- Ferment for 17 days.
- Rack to secondary, leaving 2in liquid (a gallon or so in primary) and add large dry hop addition. 7days.
- Use sanitized kitchen strainer to rack off any floaties.
- Rack to bottling bucket leaving 2in liquid (a gallon or so in secondary).

When I did this, I NEVER got a butter flavor eventho I always used 05 back then. My hop flavor may not have lasted long, but that's a different problem. This was prior to me doing short primaries, dry hopping in primary, kegging, cold crashing, plate chilling. My best tasting and cleanest IPA's were made doing this technique...it's all I got for now.
 
So I experimented a little a couple weeks ago. I brewed 2 very similar beers. Same malt bill and very similar amount and type of hops. The thing I changed was when the hops were added.

Beer 1:
.25 mosaic @ 60 mins
.75 mosaic @10 mins
1 oz mosaic, 1 oz Experimental Grapefruit
1 oz Columbus, 1 oz mosaic & 1 oz Citra hop stand @ 180° for 30’

Dry Hop
1 oz mosaic 1 oz Experimental Grapefruit at pitch
5 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day

Beer 2:
0.25 oz Columbus Hops @ 60 min
0.75 oz Columbus Hops @ 10 min
2 oz Columbus at flameout

Dry Hop
1 oz mosaic 1 oz El Dorado at pitch
4 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day
2 oz mosaic on day 8.

I wanted to see if one over the other had more taste/aroma and which one I favored. I was quite surprised to see that I strongly favored beer 2. It seemed to have better aroma and taste. Not sure why as I moved all flavor/aroma hops to the dry hop. Only used columbus in the boil and post boil. I know this is what trillium does and I have to say it tasted very much like a trillium beer, which is a good thing as they are my favorite brewery.

I am going to continue to experiment with this a little bit. Next week my new 20 gallon kettle should be showing up so going to try a similar beer to beer 2, but it will allow me to use 2 different dry hops to create 2 different beers with the same base. Compare that to a couple beers I brewed last weekend and this weekend using a schedule similar to beer 1.

All interesting stuff and fun to try different things out.

Also I have 2 new NE IPAs in the fermenter with hops I have not really used or tasted before. I have one that is Ekuanot focused and one that only has columbus (for bittering) and El Dorado flameout and dry hop. Then its back to my bread and butter Mosaic focused, LOVE Mosaic!
 
So I experimented a little a couple weeks ago. I brewed 2 very similar beers. Same malt bill and very similar amount and type of hops. The thing I changed was when the hops were added.

Beer 1:
.25 mosaic @ 60 mins
.75 mosaic @10 mins
1 oz mosaic, 1 oz Experimental Grapefruit
1 oz Columbus, 1 oz mosaic & 1 oz Citra hop stand @ 180° for 30’

Dry Hop
1 oz mosaic 1 oz Experimental Grapefruit at pitch
5 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day

Beer 2:
0.25 oz Columbus Hops @ 60 min
0.75 oz Columbus Hops @ 10 min
2 oz Columbus at flameout

Dry Hop
1 oz mosaic 1 oz El Dorado at pitch
4 oz mosaic, 2 oz Citra, 1 oz Columbus added on 3rd day
2 oz mosaic on day 8.

I wanted to see if one over the other had more taste/aroma and which one I favored. I was quite surprised to see that I strongly favored beer 2. It seemed to have better aroma and taste. Not sure why as I moved all flavor/aroma hops to the dry hop. Only used columbus in the boil and post boil. I know this is what trillium does and I have to say it tasted very much like a trillium beer, which is a good thing as they are my favorite brewery.

I am going to continue to experiment with this a little bit. Next week my new 20 gallon kettle should be showing up so going to try a similar beer to beer 2, but it will allow me to use 2 different dry hops to create 2 different beers with the same base. Compare that to a couple beers I brewed last weekend and this weekend using a schedule similar to beer 1.

All interesting stuff and fun to try different things out.

Also I have 2 new NE IPAs in the fermenter with hops I have not really used or tasted before. I have one that is Ekuanot focused and one that only has columbus (for bittering) and El Dorado flameout and dry hop. Then its back to my bread and butter Mosaic focused, LOVE Mosaic!

Just out of curiosity, what size batches are you doing? That's a crap ton of hops for a 5 gallon batch. Maybe that's why I'm not getting the taste and aroma that I'm looking for.

Also, what yeast are you using to get the trillium tasting beer?

Both of my fermenters are taken up right now with a pineapple IPA recipe I came up with, and a cucumber pilsner I made yesterday. Once one is empty Juicy#3 is getting made. Juicy#1 with 1318 was really good, Juicy#2 with Conan turned out bad. Not sure why, but I can't believe it would be the yeast.
 
Yes 5 gallon batches. I typically use a pound of hops per batch.

I am using 1318 for yeast. I really think the biggest contributor to the trillium taste is bittering with Columbus. And the timing of that.
 
Drinking my latest version brewed with 007. Wanted to see if the large whirlpool and dry hops would still add haze to a yeast that drops better than 1318 and well I'm convinced haze is def a part of the large whirlpool, I did 6oz and then a dble dry hop with 4oz at day 4 and another 4oz at day 10 and it's still hazy. One thing I notice is it def doesn't have that yeast bite like a trillium beer or when I use 1318 but the hop profile is still very much the same on the taste and nose. I'll post a pic later if I can.
 
Hop shots are the best!! No wort loss from hip matter, precise IBU control and very smooth bittering. No downside yet for me, have used them on every variety of beer so far.

I have a syringe of Yakima CO2 extract.
Does yours smell really funky, not hoppy at all?
How much would you add for this brew
 
I have a syringe of Yakima CO2 extract.
Does yours smell really funky, not hoppy at all?
How much would you add for this brew

The color and appearance can be all over the place, so unless it smells like cheese, you're probably good. Remember to keep cold and away from light and O2.

The best way to approximate IBU contribution is to enter the AA% as 61.1 and then convert ml to oz (0.17 oz = 5 ml). I find 5 ml works perfectly for about 30-40 IBU in wort of this gravity. The beauty is you can titrate down or up depending on personal preference.
 
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