New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[isomerization]

Just looked at my water report and tried to input it in Bru n Water but got a tad confused.
Just wondering what additions to add as I want a nice juicy mouthfeel for this brew I will be trying

Any help would be appreciated

https://www.unitedutilities.com/serv...eField=WN6+7AH

The link didn't work for me. Safest (and best imo) is to start with RO water from a grocery store type dispenser. They are like $1.50 per 5 gallon if you have your own jugs. Then add gypsum and calcium chloride. The main recipe post (1418?) has recommended levels. I also highly,recommend playing around with the Brun water software until it clicks for you, very valuable resource.

 

[braindead]

Hmm funny you should say that. it does seem to smell a little cheesy

 

[braindead]

The link didn't work for me. Safest (and best imo) is to start with RO water from a grocery store type dispenser. They are like $1.50 per 5 gallon if you have your own jugs. Then add gypsum and calcium chloride. The main recipe post (1418?) has recommended levels. I also highly,recommend playing around with the Brun water software until it clicks for you, very valuable resource.

Updated
https://www.unitedutilities.com/ser...quality-search-results/?postcodeField=WN6+7AH

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm brewing this for my wedding

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Updated
https://www.unitedutilities.com/ser...quality-search-results/?postcodeField=WN6+7AH

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm brewing this for my wedding

Looking at that, it would be easier for you just to start with RO water and follow the additions as mentioned in post 1418.

Just looking at that link, you'd have to start by treating your water for the chlorine(and IMO filtering for best taste). Then you'd have to add more calcium because that's way too low. I like my magnesium at 10ppm but you could probably get away with what yours has. Then, that report doesn't even list chloride or sulfates so you have no idea where to even start on that. It also doesn't list bicarbonates so you dont know where you water sits with that either. If you start with RO, everything across the board you are starting at 0 so you can add and build from there with a program like bru'n water, or use post 1418 if you want to go the easy route. Either that or send a sample of your water to ward labs to have tested. They will break it down and tell you everything you need to know so you can tweak your water.

 

[braindead]

If you click FULL at the side of summary it shows sulphates and chloride.

Thanks

 

[BrewinSoldier]

If you click FULL at the side of summary it shows sulphates and chloride.

Thanks

Ok well looking at the full version, both your chloride(12ppm) and sulfates(22) are both way too low. You'd need sulfate to be in the 150ppm range and chloride to be in the 75ppm range, or you can swap those two numbers depending on your taste and what you are after. Again, it would be a whole lot easier to start with RO. Otherwise, you can enter your numbers into Bru'n and go from there. Just remember if you use your own water to get the chlorine and chloramine (if your water has it) out before anything else.

 

[Tarpon87]

Just took a FG reading and added second round of dry hop on my red NEIPA. Good melon aroma and flavor. OG was 1.080 and FG came in at 1.022. A little higher than i wanted but i hear that isnt uncommon with fist gen Conan. Should be a good one!

 

[RevKev]

In case you missed it
https://www.beeradvocate.com/articles/15649/its-official-new-england-india-pale-ale-is-a-style/

 

[mintyice]

Folks who are dry hopping during primary, how are you getting your hops to sink below the 2-3" of thick krausen?

 

[stickyfinger]

Folks who are dry hopping during primary, how are you getting your hops to sink below the 2-3" of thick krausen?

i swirl 1-4x per day and chill to drop them

 

[BennyN]

I just picked up some WLP 095 Burlington Ale, which I believe is White Labs version of Conan. Anyway, I'm brewing up my next attempt at this style over the weekend.

I'm hoping to hear from anyone who has used this. What did you do to keep the diacetyl in check? I'm a little concerned because WL makes a point to mention diacetyl production in their product description.

Is it as simple as ramping the temp up to 72 or so toward the end of fermentation?

Not sure if the following info helps, but I'll be doing a 1 liter starter for a 3.5 gallon batch with an OG around 1.060. I try to pitch an active starter 12-18 hours after I put it on the stir plate as opposed to the chill/decant method.

Thanks!

 

[stickyfinger]

I just picked up some WLP 095 Burlington Ale, which I believe is White Labs version of Conan. Anyway, I'm brewing up my next attempt at this style over the weekend.

I'm hoping to hear from anyone who has used this. What did you do to keep the diacetyl in check? I'm a little concerned because WL makes a point to mention diacetyl production in their product description.

Is it as simple as ramping the temp up to 72 or so toward the end of fermentation?

Not sure if the following info helps, but I'll be doing a 1 liter starter for a 3.5 gallon batch with an OG around 1.060. I try to pitch an active starter 12-18 hours after I put it on the stir plate as opposed to the chill/decant method.

Thanks!

I've used WLP095 in NEIPA and many other styles now. I love the yeast. It is supposedly similar to the yeast that was used by Greg Noonan at his brew pub in Burlington. Kimmich worked there and possibly took a variant of the yeast with him. This variant possibly has mutated into the Conan strain. This is all speculation, but it seems like a reasonable theory to me.

I've never done a side by side with Conan, but I think it would result in a very similar beer. I've never had diacetyl problems. I always pitch an active or <24hr old starter, usually 1L with the number of cells recommended by the Mr Malty calculator. I usually ferment at either 67 or 68F with temp control probe attached to my carboy with insulation on the outside. I usually add all of my dry hops 72 hrs after pitching yeast (as the krausen is backing off at that point.) I then let the hops rest for about 7 days in the carboy with swirling daily. Finally, chill to drop the hops and then keg with as little O2 as possible. It usually results in a fantastic IPA.

It also makes a great porter, pale ale, stout, black IPA, many styles. It is very clean to my tastes and never really gives off a strange yeast character like Conan and WY1318 have occasionally done for me in the past. It is very rock solid IMHO. I do really like the NEIPAs I've done with Conan and WY1318 though too. Oddly, the WY1318 IPAs seem to have tended to taste better with a little age somehow, like some yeast component fades that I don't like. I'd need to use it more to really nail down if that is true for sure though.

 

[stickyfinger]

Has anyone tried using any of the strains of Brett that are available in this beer? I am intrigued by the Omega Labs YL-210 "Where Da Funk" strain. It says there is a Colorado brewery strain in it, which seems like it must be the Crooked Stave Brett strain that Chad talks about being very low on the barnyard, horse blanket, smoke character and high on the fruit character. My only worry is that the lack of glycerol production might make the beer thin, but it IS a blend of Sacc and Brett in YL-210, so maybe it would work out.

 

[plazola86]

Has anyone tried using any of the strains of Brett that are available in this beer? I am intrigued by the Omega Labs YL-210 "Where Da Funk" strain. It says there is a Colorado brewery strain in it, which seems like it must be the Crooked Stave Brett strain that Chad talks about being very low on the barnyard, horse blanket, smoke character and high on the fruit character. My only worry is that the lack of glycerol production might make the beer thin, but it IS a blend of Sacc and Brett in YL-210, so maybe it would work out.

I made one using Funk Weapon#2 from Bootleg Biology. This Brett strains puts out a lot of fruit esters and keeps the funkier barnyard, horse blanket esters low. I loved how the beer came out. It had a Brett smell but the taste was pure fruity goodness, like every type of fruit you could imagine. I used Citra, Mosaic, Azzaca for hops which helped too.

 

[BennyN]

I've used WLP095 in NEIPA and many other styles now. I love the yeast. It is supposedly similar to the yeast that was used by Greg Noonan at his brew pub in Burlington. Kimmich worked there and possibly took a variant of the yeast with him. This variant possibly has mutated into the Conan strain. This is all speculation, but it seems like a reasonable theory to me.

I've never done a side by side with Conan, but I think it would result in a very similar beer. I've never had diacetyl problems. I always pitch an active or <24hr old starter, usually 1L with the number of cells recommended by the Mr Malty calculator. I usually ferment at either 67 or 68F with temp control probe attached to my carboy with insulation on the outside. I usually add all of my dry hops 72 hrs after pitching yeast (as the krausen is backing off at that point.) I then let the hops rest for about 7 days in the carboy with swirling daily. Finally, chill to drop the hops and then keg with as little O2 as possible. It usually results in a fantastic IPA.

It also makes a great porter, pale ale, stout, black IPA, many styles. It is very clean to my tastes and never really gives off a strange yeast character like Conan and WY1318 have occasionally done for me in the past. It is very rock solid IMHO. I do really like the NEIPAs I've done with Conan and WY1318 though too. Oddly, the WY1318 IPAs seem to have tended to taste better with a little age somehow, like some yeast component fades that I don't like. I'd need to use it more to really nail down if that is true for sure though.

Awesome! Thanks so much for the detailed response. I will follow your fermentation temp schedule for sure. Great to know you've never had any diacetyl issues. This will be my second crack at the style and my first time using a Conan-ish yeast strain. My last NEIPA used WLP 644 and I liked that one quite a bit. I'll be sure to add those dry hops around 72 hours as well. I took the layman's approach last time and just chucked them in after the bulk of fermentation was complete. I definitely want to see what that biotransformation thing is all about.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

So I just got an email from Morebeer today. They just released a new yeast strain that is for NEIPAs. It's WLP095 Burlington Ale yeast. I'll probably order a few to try with my next Juicy IPA.

 

[basisforaday]

Just did a similar version of Braufessor's recipe this weekend. A few minor tweaks to the grainbill and using a Mosaic/Galaxy/Denali combo with Columbus for bittering. My first time using oat Malt instead of flaked oats so we'll see how that goes!

 

[braindead]

So decided I'm going with bottled water.
Could anyone please help and tell me what additions I need to make the water profile like the recipe. Thx

CalcIum 47
Mag 14
Pot 3
Sod 89
Bicarbonate 301
Chloe 76
Sulphate 18
Nitr 18
Ph 7.5

Thx

 

[Braufessor]

So decided I'm going with bottled water.
Could anyone please help and tell me what additions I need to make the water profile like the recipe. Thx

CalcIum 47
Mag 14
Pot 3
Sod 89
Bicarbonate 301
Chloe 76
Sulphate 18
Nitr 18
Ph 7.5

Thx

I am not quite understanding...... Is the above your "goal" or is that what you are starting with in your bottled water?

In either case - that bicarbonate # is VERY high. You do not want bicarbonate in a beer like this - especially at those levels.

Are you starting with Reverse Osmosis Water??? The bicarbonate should be close to zero.

 

[plazola86]

So decided I'm going with bottled water.
Could anyone please help and tell me what additions I need to make the water profile like the recipe. Thx

CalcIum 47
Mag 14
Pot 3
Sod 89
Bicarbonate 301
Chloe 76
Sulphate 18
Nitr 18
Ph 7.5

Thx

Do yourself a favor and go read the water science threads. Like many have ALREADY mentioned just start with RO water. I don't get why your so against that! Those numbers are not for RO water or if those are the numbers your shooting for your way off. I'm all for helping but you cant help someone who doesn't want to help themselves.

 

[stickyfinger]

So decided I'm going with bottled water.
Could anyone please help and tell me what additions I need to make the water profile like the recipe. Thx

CalcIum 47
Mag 14
Pot 3
Sod 89
Bicarbonate 301
Chloe 76
Sulphate 18
Nitr 18
Ph 7.5

Thx

Bru'n Water is not difficult if you read the intro info and play around a bit.

 

[Sbe2]

Folks who are dry hopping during primary, how are you getting your hops to sink below the 2-3" of thick krausen?

I let them sink naturally, usually a week and they will fall eventually. If not, cold crashing works everytime.

 

[Projectfdw]

Do yourself a favor and go read the water science threads. Like many have ALREADY mentioned just start with RO water. I don't get why your so against that! Those numbers are not for RO water or if those are the numbers your shooting for your way off. I'm all for helping but you cant help someone who doesn't want to help themselves.

His handle is braindead ...

RO water is cheap and less variable. Seems like a no brainer

 

[braindead]

Sorted it with great help from Brau.
We don't have RO available like you guys in the States.

Thanks guys

 

[JohnConnor]

Question. I've been following this thread a bit and I think some were touching on it but has anyone experimented without using whirlpool hops. Hop bursting towards the end of boil, chilling, and a big dry hop?

 

[mintyice]

Question. I've been following this thread a bit and I think some were touching on it but has anyone experimented without using whirlpool hops. Hop bursting towards the end of boil, chilling, and a big dry hop?

Yeah I've gone back and forth between big whirlpools and just chilling after a FO addition just because I can save ~30 mins by not having to whirlpool. I can't tell too much of a difference to be honest. I think a big dry hop matters more. Even dry hopping during primary seems suspect to me, but I'm all for experimenting.

 

[pshankstar]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1495560353.354970.jpg

Here is a picture of my first attempt of a NE IPA with the WY1318 yeast.



Here is a picture of the same brew but fermented with OYL-052 (Conan strain).

Turned out pretty good but a little too bitter for the style.

 

[stickyfinger]

Question. I've been following this thread a bit and I think some were touching on it but has anyone experimented without using whirlpool hops. Hop bursting towards the end of boil, chilling, and a big dry hop?

I think many of us have experimented with all of the combinations. I've done dryhop only, dryhop with anywhere from 15-90 minute hop stand, dryhop with hop burst, dry hop with hopburst and hop stand. The only thing I've never tried is omitting a dryhop (seems like a terrible idea )

I am honestly still unsure what is "best":
-I have a suspicion that bittering or hopburst hops may increase head retention (sounds crazy, but it may be the case based on some of my observations.)
-I would bet that the difference between a hop burst and a short hopstand would be minor, similar to the XBMT result, for most people.
-I know that both hopbursts and hop stands can result in excellent, full hop flavor, but I think there is much more bang for the buck from dry hops. However, heavy dry hops *can* result in more astringency and dryness that usually mellows with time.
-I also am curious to see if my initial observation on beer clarity and lasting hop flavor is true: it has seemed to me over the last several beers that my massive dryhop only beers stay cloudier and hoppier for longer in the keg compared with beers that have any type of kettle hop. Not sure if it is a real effect or coincidence though. My best IPAs in terms of longevity have been the dryhop only ones.
-In the short term, any combination of these techniques should result in an awesome beer.

I guess that's not very helpful, but I really think to answer what gives the best flavor and the best flavor for the price would require a lot more experimentation. There have only been a few attempts to understand this as far as I know: the Rock Bottom tests, the Brulosophy tests and a few sporadic tests you can find online if you search enough. If I were to guess right now, I'd guess that the Rock Bottom tests were the most reliable but they were only in one recipe as far as I remember, so that could change depending a lot of variables. The Rock Bottom results seemed to indicate that the hoppiest beers were ones that had a long hop stand and a dry hop.

Even if we can finally fully understand this, it has become apparent to me from personal experience and reading the Brulosophy XBMTs that people have very different tastes with regard to hoppy beers. Some people prefer a less hoppy, aggressive dryhop character, some love it. Some people just like less hop flavor but still a threshold amount. So, we will still all use different techniques and amounts even if we do figure out what gives the absolute most hop flavor for the longest time in a beer!

 

[Rdom]

Has anyone tried using any of the strains of Brett that are available in this beer? I am intrigued by the Omega Labs YL-210 "Where Da Funk" strain. It says there is a Colorado brewery strain in it, which seems like it must be the Crooked Stave Brett strain that Chad talks about being very low on the barnyard, horse blanket, smoke character and high on the fruit character. My only worry is that the lack of glycerol production might make the beer thin, but it IS a blend of Sacc and Brett in YL-210, so maybe it would work out.

I've used the Omega "Where Da Funk" in a similar recipe. It was nice but the beer dried out to 1.006. Once the hops started fading, the dryness started coming through a bit harsh. Had about 16% flaked grains and aimed for mash temp 156F (though I lost about 4 degrees during the mash). I guess I would use with caution or drink it quickly before the hops fade.

 

[marjen]

OMG, I just tried my newest version of this style and it is sooooooo good! Used a little Munich and honey malt to go with my 2 row and white wheat. The focal point is 8 oz of ekuanot with 4 mosaic, 2 galaxy and 2 Columbus for bittering. So citrusy and sweet. The taste leaves kind of a tart aftertaste like you just ate a sweet tart. 7.1% and not a hint of alcohol taste. Truly amazing beer! Cheers.