New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[plazola86]

I am thinking of a different malt bill this weekend.

Currently I use 10# 2-row, 1.5# white wheat, .5 lb flaked oats, .5 lb carapils and 4 oz of crystal 15.

Linking of going 10# 2-row, 1 lb white wheat, 1 lb Munich, 1 lb honey malt, 1 lb flaked oats.

What will I lose killing the carapils and crystal 15?

You won't lose anything losing those two. I hate using crystal for IPAs (west or east) and the wheat does more for body and head than the cara. I would say that the Munich and especially the honey are a little too much. I would cut the Munich to 8 oz and the honey to 4 oz.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

I don't think the Munich is too much (I use 3 lb of Vienna in my NEIPa, FWIW), but the honey is definitely a bit much.
I use 4 oz.

 

[k-daddy]

Just curious which filter housing material you guys are using. The Black Poly? Something like this?

https://vacmotion.com/Details.aspx?Cat=InlineFilters&Id=2055

Can't tell which one is food safe, etc.

I ordered one of each. All are compatible with beer. Heat is not an issue for me as I transfer cool liquid. Vacmotion, in an email question, recommended EPDM but I see it is not compatible with petroleum. Not sure what keg lube contains but I do use it to lube gaskets so for the minimal price, I just ordered all three (nice to have a backup anyway). For my order, it was a better bargain to purchase the filter housing with the preferred filter size and Viton gasket, then order the 2 other gaskets separately. The Viton gasket by itself is more expensive while, when ordering Viton gasket with the filter housing, the price is the same as the other 2 gasket options. Looking forward to my first attempt at filtering within the next week. Question is whether I'll try the 40, 80, or 170 micron filter....

 

[marjen]

I don't think the Munich is too much (I use 3 lb of Vienna in my NEIPa, FWIW), but the honey is definitely a bit much.
I use 4 oz.

You won't lose anything losing those two. I hate using crystal for IPAs (west or east) and the wheat does more for body and head than the cara. I would say that the Munich and especially the honey are a little too much. I would cut the Munich to 8 oz and the honey to 4 oz.

Thanks guys. I will cut back the honey to 4 oz and the Munich to 12 oz. and see how I like it.

 

[Sbe2]

For my latest batch I tried some LoDO methods including not sparging and unfortunately missed my OG by about 10 points (1.055 instead of 1.066).

To compensate for this somewhat, I am adding 8 ounces of dextrose (dissolved in boiled and cooled water) to the fermenter along with my first dry-hop.

Have others done this before in this style?

I bollyfotched my last one. I mashed in at 4 am and forgot to add the 2 lbs of flaked grains. I added dextrose and dme towards the end of the boil to get my points up. It turned out great for an f-up.

I believe the hops can compensate for some mistakes. At least for my palate.

 

[plazola86]

I ordered one of each. All are compatible with beer. Heat is not an issue for me as I transfer cool liquid. Vacmotion, in an email question, recommended EPDM but I see it is not compatible with petroleum. Not sure what keg lube contains but I do use it to lube gaskets so for the minimal price, I just ordered all three (nice to have a backup anyway). For my order, it was a better bargain to purchase the filter housing with the preferred filter size and Viton gasket, then order the 2 other gaskets separately. The Viton gasket by itself is more expensive while, when ordering Viton gasket with the filter housing, the price is the same as the other 2 gasket options. Looking forward to my first attempt at filtering within the next week. Question is whether I'll try the 40, 80, or 170 micron filter....

I just kegged a beer yesterday that had 4 oz of dry hops and 7 oz of hibiscus with the 170 micron filter. This was the first time it has clogged on me! I had to clean it 3 times! I just went and ordered the 304 micron (50 mesh) filter since I think its still plenty small to keep the bad stuff out but not clog as easy! The 170 filters everything out but since you bought all three I would suggest maybe doing a double or triple stage filter if you want your beer really clear.

 

[k-daddy]

I just kegged a beer yesterday that had 4 oz of dry hops and 7 oz of hibiscus with the 170 micron filter. This was the first time it has clogged on me! I had to clean it 3 times! I just went and ordered the 304 micron (50 mesh) filter since I think its still plenty small to keep the bad stuff out but not clog as easy! The 170 filters everything out but since you bought all three I would suggest maybe doing a double or triple stage filter if you want your beer really clear.

Well for now, 170 micron is the most porous one I ordered. I do cold crash and I'm somewhat careful with the racking cane. Again, I'm not after really clear beer, just trying to avoid those first couple of "green" pours. Must have sucked having to interrupt your transfer 3 times to clean. I would've been bummed.

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Well for now, 170 micron is the most porous one I ordered. I do cold crash and I'm somewhat careful with the racking cane. Again, I'm not after really clear beer, just trying to avoid those first couple of "green" pours. Must have sucked having to interrupt your transfer 3 times to clean. I would've been bummed.

One thing I've done in the past is use a sanitized kitchen strainer and slowly grab the top floating hop material prior to any transfer. Definitely helped.

 

[plazola86]

Well for now, 170 micron is the most porous one I ordered. I do cold crash and I'm somewhat careful with the racking cane. Again, I'm not after really clear beer, just trying to avoid those first couple of "green" pours. Must have sucked having to interrupt your transfer 3 times to clean. I would've been bummed.

The cold crash should definitely help and if your siphoning you should have no trouble. I don't cold crash and transfer through a spigot that's right above yeast/trub level and the hibiscus was still floating every where as well. I let out a couple bad words kegging this one LOL

 

[tjosborne]

If you can, try to control the actual wort temp by putting wet towels on the fermentor or putting it in a tub of room temperature water to keep it down. This yeast also does not like head pressure. I once changed from a blow of tube back to an airlock thinking that high krausen was over and came back in the afternoon to a mess.

In my ferm chamber I tape the controller probe right to the fermentor with insulation covering it. The controller then reacts to the temp of the beer, turning the cooling on or off to knock the temp back down. This really keeps 1318 in check.

It's a very active yeast and letting it free rise will get exciting. Lately I've been brewing in a SS Brewtech bucket. The beers I've been brewing are around 1.060 or lower and I have not had much blow off if any at all. The ring on the inside indicates a high krausen but at a steady 66 with this fermentor I haven't seen any blow offs.

I use the set up below just in case. It allows a 1/2 blow off and a way to push the beer after it's done fermenting. I just close the blue handled valve and attach my gas to push the beer through the racking valve into a keg.

View attachment 398816

How have you been dry hopping with this setup? In the keg or taking the lid off the bucket?

 

[Projectfdw]

Been reading a lot about honey malt today and it's usage. Worried I may have used too much in this batch. Used .5#.

Rest of grains are as follows
12# 2 row
1# white wheat
1# flaked oats
1# flaked wheat
.5# carapils
.5# honey malt

Should I expect it to be too sweet with this much? Anyone ever use a half pound or more in this style?

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

That's more than I've ever used. Please keep going and report..

 

[leesmith]

How have you been dry hopping with this setup? In the keg or taking the lid off the bucket?

I don't dry hop in the brew bucket. I transfer into a purged keg with hops suspended in a bag in the keg. The reason for doing this is to harvest the yeast from the bucket as clean as possible.

Here's a link to a blog post I made about the blow off set up and another link to a post about a beer brewed with my new process:

http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/05/blow-off-set-up.html

http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/03/nelson-pale-ale.html

 

[rwing7486]

Been reading a lot about honey malt today and it's usage. Worried I may have used too much in this batch. Used .5#.

Rest of grains are as follows
12# 2 row
1# white wheat
1# flaked oats
1# flaked wheat
.5# carapils
.5# honey malt

Should I expect it to be too sweet with this much? Anyone ever use a half pound or more in this style?

I brewed a beer on 5/12 that is very similar to your grain bill:

10.25# Bries Pale Ale 3.5L
1# German Wheat 2L
1# Flaked wheat 2L
0.75# Flaked Oats 2.5L
0.5# Carapils 1.5L
0.5# Honey Malt 33L

My LHBS has a darker version of honey malt, think its called "Honey Biscuit" malt which is what i used in my batch. The worst smelled fantastic. My wort was at 70F post chill plate so I waited until Saturday to aerate and pitch my yeast when the temp got down to 64F. I used WY1098 in this batch.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Been reading a lot about honey malt today and it's usage. Worried I may have used too much in this batch. Used .5#.

Rest of grains are as follows
12# 2 row
1# white wheat
1# flaked oats
1# flaked wheat
.5# carapils
.5# honey malt

Should I expect it to be too sweet with this much? Anyone ever use a half pound or more in this style?

I don't know how much is "too much". I suspect it depends on your taste. I use 4 oz (.25#) in my NEIPA and I think it's perfect. But I also use a pound of actual honey, which ferments out pretty dry, leaving behind some flavor that is accentuated by the honey malt.
I would say that most pros don't use any, or at least not very much, cara malts, so even though carapils is kind of in a different category than most cara malts, I'd ditch it, or use less, like .25#, assuming you are using it to aid in head retention (which can be achieved better by a good step mash regimen).
But that's just my two cents, which could have an actual street value significantly less than face value.

 

[DefinitelyJon]

Anybody do a beta-glucan rest with these beers to help lautering?

 

[stickyfinger]

Anybody do a beta-glucan rest with these beers to help lautering?

that is completely unnecessary imho. there is no problem. i guess it would depend on your mashtun setup though.

 

[Matt617]

I've read that NEIPAs lose their aroma after a month or so. Has anyone tried transferring to another keg with a keg hop to infuse an older NEIPA with more aroma? What was the outcome?

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Anybody do a beta-glucan rest with these beers to help lautering?

Yeah, never had any trouble lautering. Flaked adjuncts are only a small percentage.
BG rest is unnecessary.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

I've read that NEIPAs lose their aroma after a month or so. Has anyone tried transferring to another keg with a keg hop to infuse an older NEIPA with more aroma? What was the outcome?

Yes. I did that with my last one.
When it got to half a keg, I put 2 oz Galaxy in a 2.5 gal keg and close-circuit transferred.
It definitely kicked up the hop quotient again. Maybe a little too much (or the wrong hop choice). The flavor was great, but it threw some sediment despite a fine mesh bag, and when that sediment got picked up into the glass, it has a peppery quality to it. Not vegetal pepper, but like white pepper with a little burn in the back of the throat.

Then again, Galaxy is one of the most aggressive hops out there, so maybe only one ounce (in 2.5 gal) or a different hop it a finer mesh would have been the ticket.

 

[mintyice]

Just shook up my mango hop hash NEIPA that's been kegged for a month which dry hops in the keg. Definitely rejuvenated the aroma of the beer a bit!

 

[DefinitelyJon]

It seems to gum up on the false bottom the last one I did was around 20% flaked oats. I've read people people doing a rest with beers using high percentage adjuncts or oats I thought maybe that'd help

 

[Matt617]

Just shook up my mango hop hash NEIPA that's been kegged for a month which dry hops in the keg. Definitely rejuvenated the aroma of the beer a bit!

Thanks for the responses. Will give it a shake first and in the name of science will taste a sample. I will also try closed transfer to 2.5 with smaller keg hop blend of citra, simcoe, mosaic that I used.

 

[Cavpilot2000]

Thanks for the responses. Will give it a shake first and in the name of science will taste a sample. I will also try closed transfer to 2.5 with smaller keg hop blend of citra, simcoe, mosaic that I used.

Just bear in mind that you are now going to be dry hopping half the volume you did previously, so you may want to reduce how much you would use if you were dry hopping 5 gal (or you may not...)

 

[Cavpilot2000]

It seems to gum up on the false bottom the last one I did was around 20% flaked oats. I've read people people doing a rest with beers using high percentage adjuncts or oats I thought maybe that'd help

If you're having that problem, a BG rest might help. So might some rice hulls.
I use 1 lb flaked wheat and 1 lb flaked oats, which only amount to 7% each and I've not had any issues with clogging (I use a mesh BIAB bag and a false bottom in my MT).

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

It seems to gum up on the false bottom the last one I did was around 20% flaked oats. I've read people people doing a rest with beers using high percentage adjuncts or oats I thought maybe that'd help

That is A LOT of oats, aka oatmeal, which is the real issue. Oatmeal stouts have 10% tops. There are 2 good solutions.

1) get a pound of rice hulls. They are very stiff and will allow false bottoms to drain.

2) mash the oats in a separate cooking pot with a strainer on the stove, such as one used for spaghetti. This is my preffered method as stuck mashes are such a pain!

 

[mintyice]

Getting ready to brew a Fuzzy Green inspired NEIPA tomorrow. 80% pils, 8.9% flaked oats, 8.9% unmalted spelt, 2.2% honey malt. 1.053 OG. Planning to Hochkurz mash it as well. Adding a lot of late Azacca, Galaxy and Mandarina Bavaria. Imperial Organic Juice. I'll probably add the cucumber towards the end of primary then keg after a few days (with more dry hops in the keg of course).

 

[DefinitelyJon]

That is A LOT of oats, aka oatmeal, which is the real issue. Oatmeal stouts have 10% tops. There are 2 good solutions.

1) get a pound of rice hulls. They are very stiff and will allow false bottoms to drain.

2) mash the oats in a separate cooking pot with a strainer on the stove, such as one used for spaghetti. This is my preffered method as stuck mashes are such a pain!

I'm usually not using quite that much but the pale ale I last did had a lot and was a pain when it came to sparging. I usually do have some rice hulls on hand but not this time haha. Wouldn't you need the 2-row with the oats in able to convert starches in the oats if mashing separately? Or maybe mashing some 2-row with oats separately to get the enzymes needed to convert?

 

[DefinitelyJon]

That is A LOT of oats, aka oatmeal, which is the real issue. Oatmeal stouts have 10% tops. There are 2 good solutions.

1) get a pound of rice hulls. They are very stiff and will allow false bottoms to drain.

2) mash the oats in a separate cooking pot with a strainer on the stove, such as one used for spaghetti. This is my preffered method as stuck mashes are such a pain!

I'm usually not using quite that much but the pale ale I last did had a lot and was a pain when it came to sparging. I usually do have some rice hulls on hand but not this time haha. Wouldn't you need the 2-row with the oats in able to convert starches in the oats if mashing separately? Or maybe mashing some 2-row with oats separately to get the enzymes needed to convert?

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

I'm usually not using quite that much but the pale ale I last did had a lot and was a pain when it came to sparging. I usually do have some rice hulls on hand but not this time haha. Wouldn't you need the 2-row with the oats in able to convert starches in the oats if mashing separately? Or maybe mashing some 2-row with oats separately to get the enzymes needed to convert?

You know I never looked into it that hard. Just a mouth feel thing for me. I'll stress over the stuck sparge more then anything..

 

[Projectfdw]

Kegged my latest version today. First time using Denali hops. Also went citra mosaic and a little simcoe.

Went higher on grain bill so finished at 7.35%.

Obviously still green and uncarbonated but it didn't have that same "juice" and aroma quality as the last batch which followed the base recipe in this thread. The alcohol was much more present (obviously).

For those who have gone higher on the abv, have you experienced the aforementioned as well? Going on vacation in 10 days and bringing the keg so hoping it rounds into form.

Also, from earlier in the thread, the honey malt (.5#) didn't seem to add any residual sweeteness.

Finally- anyone ever do one of these with San Diego super yeast?

 

[Morrey]

Of course everyone has their own read on things, but if GMC (Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra) can be beat, I am gonna be surprised.

Even a few days shy of fully carbed....what a winner!!

 

[stickyfinger]

Kegged my latest version today. First time using Denali hops. Also went citra mosaic and a little simcoe.

Went higher on grain bill so finished at 7.35%.

Obviously still green and uncarbonated but it didn't have that same "juice" and aroma quality as the last batch which followed the base recipe in this thread. The alcohol was much more present (obviously).

For those who have gone higher on the abv, have you experienced the aforementioned as well? Going on vacation in 10 days and bringing the keg so hoping it rounds into form.

Also, from earlier in the thread, the honey malt (.5#) didn't seem to add any residual sweeteness.

Finally- anyone ever do one of these with San Diego super yeast?

higher ABV should only make the beer better from my experience if all malt. it is richer and fuller. tpo hot of ferment?

 

[ThirstyPawsHB]

Of course everyone has their own read on things, but if GMC (Galaxy/Mosaic/Citra) can be beat, I am gonna be surprised.

Even a few days shy of fully carbed....what a winner!!

What's your hop schedule?

 

[Projectfdw]

higher ABV should only make the beer better from my experience if all malt. it is richer and fuller. tpo hot of ferment?

Held at 63 for 8 days and then ambient at 70 for 4 days. I'm thinking it may just need some time to come together. Or at least I'm hoping. It wasn't horrible by any means just not the juice bomb.

 

[Morrey]

What's your hop schedule?

I followed the popular recipe (carefully outlining hop schedules) by Braufessor for his NE IPA right here on this thread. In post #1 he modifies a few details and he references this mod in his first post.

He uses several hop combos in his experiments, and I settled on G/M/C as mentioned. I also used 133 Cl and 66 SO4 or basically a 1:2 SO4:Cl ratio. Some reverse this and go 2:1 but I'd be hard pressed to shift anything about my beer.

My kegged beer is nearing 3 weeks in keg now so that makes it around 4 weeks from brew day. I used 1318 yeast which finished in less than 4 days. If you use this yeast be mindful of the quick finish since Braufessor's first dry hop addition goes into primary before beer fully attenuates.

This is well worth the effort. This is the smoothest and best IPA I've had due to good hop presence w/o the sharp bittering aspect I am not fond of.

 

[degivens]

I don't dry hop in the brew bucket. I transfer into a purged keg with hops suspended in a bag in the keg. The reason for doing this is to harvest the yeast from the bucket as clean as possible.

Here's a link to a blog post I made about the blow off set up and another link to a post about a beer brewed with my new process:

http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/05/blow-off-set-up.html

http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2017/03/nelson-pale-ale.html

Thanks a ton for that info -- I just purchased that setup for my brewbucket, it looks like it'll make life a lot easier!

 

[leesmith]

Thanks a ton for that info -- I just purchased that setup for my brewbucket, it looks like it'll make life a lot easier!

Your welcome. It really is nice...works great. Wish I had come up with it.

 

[Jmash]

All my recipes are a variation of the one on page 1. One thing I'm noticing is that the original .75 warrior 60 min hop addition gives more of a "Trilliumlike" bitterness.
Using a 4 mil hopshot is less bitter and closer to a Treehouse smoothness.

 

[Morrey]

All my recipes are a variation of the one on page 1. One thing I'm noticing is that the original .75 warrior 60 min hop addition gives more of a "Trilliumlike" bitterness.
Using a 4 mil hopshot is less bitter and closer to a Treehouse smoothness.

I have started liking these Yakima Valley Hop shots. I think they are starting to catch on so I bought the large can and made up a bunch of my own hop shots. My results are excellent using the extract for bittering at 60.