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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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My guess is that it is done fermenting or close to it. 2 packs of dry yeast is a lot and 75 degrees is on the warm side..... so, I am thinking the yeast ripped through it.

I would doubt that the yeast dropped out or that you would need to add more yeast.

Add dry hops as you planned.

The biggest concern will be that the temps hit the high side of what you want and could result in some stronger esters or possibly some off flavors from fermenting a touch hot.

Ideally, you keep the temps down closer to the 68-70 range. But, I don't know that it got warm enough to "ruin" anything. Just have to wait and see.

Room temperature was ideal at 18C but fermantation went too vigorous that it jumped to 24C. My expected fg was 1.019 or 1.020, I got 1.024 yesterday and dropped my second dry hop charge. Planning to cold crash for a few days and bottle it wednesday.
 
Room temperature was ideal at 18C but fermantation went too vigorous that it jumped to 24C. My expected fg was 1.019 or 1.020, I got 1.024 yesterday and dropped my second dry hop charge. Planning to cold crash for a few days and bottle it wednesday.

If it is still at 1.024 I would let it sit at room temp. How long has it been since brew day??
 
Ok, I'll just stick with the gypsum and CaCla.

Has anyone attempted this with New Zealand hops. I may brew up another batch this weekend and would like to use some. Just trying to figure out if I should use only New Zealand or mix with other more traditional hops or what... I'd really like to make a beer that's close to TG Zeelander or the original Alpine Nelson that has that nice white wine taste to it

@edcoffey did motueka and nelson is his hop hands clone

i live in nz, and i would consider using a combo of 3 (nelson, motueka and Kohatu) you couldthrow a bit of rakau in there, but im not a big fan of it TBH (personal choice)
alternatively a 50/50 blend of nelson / galaxy is a good mix for something with some international hops in it
 
I have brewed two different batches of this (one per the original recipe and then a session version with diff hops). However, I just recently got my hands on my first commercial version of this style. I got three different Hoof Hearted cans and was shocked at how sweet and almost vanilla-y each of their beers finished. Mine have a crisp, dry bite as a finish. I am not totally sold on which I prefer.

Any thoughts on how to get this perceived sweetness? Simply bump the mash tump north of 155? I have also read about lactose. Has anyone else drank Hoof Hearted's IPA's and agree with my perception of sweetness?
 
There's been a lot of talk about this beer and oxidation. Should I avoid pitching a 1318 starter that hasn't been decanted with this style? Don't want to add even more oxidation if it's an issue.
 
There's been a lot of talk about this beer and oxidation. Should I avoid pitching a 1318 starter that hasn't been decanted with this style? Don't want to add even more oxidation if it's an issue.

I don't think so. Don't you aerate or oxygenate your wort before pitching?

My general practice as of late is to oxygenate the wort for 30 seconds with pure O2 and then pitch an active, 1L starter that's been spinning for 12 -20 hours. I've had great results with this practice.

Yesterday's batch was bubbling and krausen had formed across the whole surface within four hours.
 
I don't think so. Don't you aerate or oxygenate your wort before pitching?



My general practice as of late is to oxygenate the wort for 30 seconds with pure O2 and then pitch an active, 1L starter that's been spinning for 12 -20 hours. I've had great results with this practice.



Yesterday's batch was bubbling and krausen had formed across the whole surface within four hours.


I do oxygenate the wort however, I'm referring to adding already oxidized (not oxygenating) beer to the wort that is already fermented. It seems people spend a lot of time with their process avoiding oxidation with this beer. Just want to make the best product on my first take for this style.
 
There's been a lot of talk about this beer and oxidation. Should I avoid pitching a 1318 starter that hasn't been decanted with this style? Don't want to add even more oxidation if it's an issue.

Depends..... If you made the starter and it fermented totally out, and is now 2-3+ days old, I would definitely decant it and pitch minimal amount of starter wort.

That said, my general practice is to make a 1L starter 18 hours in advance and pitch the whole thing as it is actively fermenting. I also tend to only leave my starter on the stir plate for an hour or so to get O2 into it and then I shut it off.

I have found pitching a smaller (1L) active starter gives me better results than pitching a bigger (2L+) decanted starter.
 
I have brewed two different batches of this (one per the original recipe and then a session version with diff hops). However, I just recently got my hands on my first commercial version of this style. I got three different Hoof Hearted cans and was shocked at how sweet and almost vanilla-y each of their beers finished. Mine have a crisp, dry bite as a finish. I am not totally sold on which I prefer.

Any thoughts on how to get this perceived sweetness? Simply bump the mash tump north of 155? I have also read about lactose. Has anyone else drank Hoof Hearted's IPA's and agree with my perception of sweetness?


cut any gypsum additions. drop the bittering down. make sure to use a less crisp yeast. move more hops to hop stand from dry hop.
 
Depends..... If you made the starter and it fermented totally out, and is now 2-3+ days old, I would definitely decant it and pitch minimal amount of starter wort.



That said, my general practice is to make a 1L starter 18 hours in advance and pitch the whole thing as it is actively fermenting. I also tend to only leave my starter on the stir plate for an hour or so to get O2 into it and then I shut it off.



I have found pitching a smaller (1L) active starter gives me better results than pitching a bigger (2L+) decanted starter.


Brau, I use your original starter technique with developing an extra 100 billion cells and then saving them off for future use. Are you still doing this the 1L starter? If so, any details would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Brau, I use your original starter technique with developing an extra 100 billion cells and then saving them off for future use. Are you still doing this the 1L starter? If so, any details would be appreciated. Thanks!

What I have done for the last 3-4 years is this:

Whatever yeast I buy, where I want to use in future brews, I make a 1L starter and use it in a low hop/low ABV beer to start (blonde, dark mild, helles, etc.). I then harvest 6 jars (1/2-1 pint) of yeast from that beer when I keg it. I just swirl up some beer I leave behind in the fermenter with the yeast. No washing or anything like that... just pour off beer/yeast into jars. I then store those jars in the fridge.

When I want to use one, I decant off the beer in the jar and make a 1L starter 18 hours before. I generally pitch the entire 1L starter at high Krausen. I will use 5 of the 6 jars on whatever beer I want to brew. I will use the 6th one on another low hop/low ABV beer and repeat harvesting yeast. I usually take 1 pack of yeast through 2-3 generations of this. So, generally, I am getting about 15-20 beers out of a single pack/vial of yeast. I could probably get more, but it sort of becomes impractical when I am brewing varieties of beer...... at a certain point, I just don't need "that" much yeast.
 
Thanks. Just realized that my post was probably confusing...seeing how I just realized I confused you with Brulosophy...my bad, but equal respect for both of you! Regardless, awesome recipe! Going on my 3rd batch & hop combo...either citra-mosaic-amarillo or citra-citra-mosiac.
 
I don't think so. Don't you aerate or oxygenate your wort before pitching?

My general practice as of late is to oxygenate the wort for 30 seconds with pure O2 and then pitch an active, 1L starter that's been spinning for 12 -20 hours. I've had great results with this practice.

Yesterday's batch was bubbling and krausen had formed across the whole surface within four hours.

Not knocking your oxygenation technic, but you are probably under oxygenating (without knowing your liter flow) Chris white was on one of those podcast a while back and stated that home brewers and most breweries under oxygenate. There is a table somewhere that shows what liter flow and how long you need to go. Let me see if I can find it. I do 4LPM for 90secs I'm pretty sure I'm not even doing it enough. I'm sure your brews are still great but this form is all about help right? Chris even said you can make good beer with just shaking, but for optimum yeast performance it takes a lot more.

Found it. Skip to post 25 and watch the video. Looks like 4lpm for 60secs is the sweet spot.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=590111
 
Yeah - I would make sure you let it go until day 10-12 for sure before cold crashing it.

It's down to 1.020 - 1.021 now, because I dropped second dry hop charge I'm inclined to start cold crashing in 1-2 days. I kinda hurried the second charge because fermantation slowed down too much and I was afraid of oxidation
 
I do oxygenate the wort however, I'm referring to adding already oxidized (not oxygenating) beer to the wort that is already fermented. It seems people spend a lot of time with their process avoiding oxidation with this beer. Just want to make the best product on my first take for this style.

Gotcha. I misunderstood that.
 
Not knocking your oxygenation technic, but you are probably under oxygenating (without knowing your liter flow) Chris white was on one of those podcast a while back and stated that home brewers and most breweries under oxygenate. There is a table somewhere that shows what liter flow and how long you need to go. Let me see if I can find it. I do 4LPM for 90secs I'm pretty sure I'm not even doing it enough. I'm sure your brews are still great but this form is all about help right? Chris even said you can make good beer with just shaking, but for optimum yeast performance it takes a lot more.

Found it. Skip to post 25 and watch the video. Looks like 4lpm for 60secs is the sweet spot.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=590111

Cool! Thanks for the info. I was actually afraid that I was over oxygenating by going 60 seconds which I used to do. I had read something about the cell walls of the yeast bursting due to too much oxygen. I also need to check on the flow rate. I'll investigate further!
 
Thanks. Just realized that my post was probably confusing...seeing how I just realized I confused you with Brulosophy...my bad, but equal respect for both of you! Regardless, awesome recipe! Going on my 3rd batch & hop combo...either citra-mosaic-amarillo or citra-citra-mosiac.


i have been using the "harvest" Brulosophy method for a year or so. I love it. Only drawback is bigger starters or more step ups.
 
I'll probably try a bigger 1.5L starter+harvest with 1318 for this next one...usually do a2L. Back on topic but referencing Brulosophy...thinking about trying bru-1 hops with Citra and Mosaic...anyone have any thoughts?
 
I'll probably try a bigger 1.5L starter+harvest with 1318 for this next one...usually do a2L. Back on topic but referencing Brulosophy...thinking about trying bru-1 hops with Citra and Mosaic...anyone have any thoughts?

I originally washed yeast and ended up with an infected strain that ruined two beers. Ever since that I now overbuild my starters so I can decant off about a 12oz sample during highest fermentation and this way I get super clean yeast. I highly recommend it.
 
I originally washed yeast and ended up with an infected strain that ruined two beers. Ever since that I now overbuild my starters so I can decant off about a 12oz sample during highest fermentation and this way I get super clean yeast. I highly recommend it.

I've been doing this for years. Got a 5L flask so I can make large starters and save lots of yeast (and $$$). Never, ever had a problem doing it this way. Just a bit more work involved.
 
IMG_1567.jpg

Followed the revised recipe as close as possible, differences being that I missed my target mash temp by overcompensating for my wintery cold garage. Initial mash temp @ 158 degrees and ended up not adjusting for it in the early minutes. Additionally, I forgot the Whirlfloc tablet and finally, I don't secondary so I dry hopped all hops at once for 5 days prior to keg transfer.

5.5 gal. in fermenter for a total of 25 days, including 5 day dry hop and 4 day cold crash
WLP001 yeast w/ 1.5L starter
OG = 1.056
FG = 1.012

Cold crashed for 4 days @ 34 degrees
"Set it and forget it" carbonation @ 12psi for 2 weeks.

I'm relatively new to this amazing hobby, but here are my observations of this effort;

Sweeter than my previous brews but I attribute this to my high mash temp. I was happy to see the FG lower than I expected. Color looks great although cloudier than others I've brewed, the head dissipates fairly quickly, it's not as effervessent as I'd like for the psi setting, good (slightly forward) hop flavor and aroma. All in all, I'm enjoying it and would recommend it as a nice, easy drinking ale.
 
I just brewed this again yesterday. My fourth time. I've done conan twice and this is my second time using 1318. I liked my 1st 1318 the best so far. I also raised the mash temp to 155 hoping to get more head and mouthfeel and upped the grain bill a tad. The fermnter is bubbling furiously at the moment.
 
So just bottled this today and learned a few things for my system. Though the pain to bottle the beer tasted amazing and the beer smelled like very ripe mangos smelt so good, and very excited to try the final product.

1) since I bottle I should put it into secondary even if it's just to get it off the yeast cake and to clear the solids out a bit more, makes bottling a bit easier... lots and lots particles lol.

2) when dry hopping the last 2-3 days should of put the hops in a bag ... added to more junk in the bottling wand and made it a big pain in the ass.

3) maybe cut back on the bittering hops just a little bit I get a sharp bitterness but again that could be from all the hop particles in the beer.
 
2) when dry hopping the last 2-3 days should of put the hops in a bag ... added to more junk in the bottling wand and made it a big pain in the ass.

3) maybe cut back on the bittering hops just a little bit I get a sharp bitterness but again that could be from all the hop particles in the beer.

I've just been putting a bag around the tube emptying in the bottling bucket. It's been working fine for me.
I also went down to .50 oz Warrior for the bittering. My last batch was good but a bit less bitterness would be ideal for me.
 
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