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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

CornyKegs 728
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Giving this recipe a shot tonight in a 3 gallon batch:
84% Patagonia Pale
8% Flaked Oats
8% Flaked Wheat
Hopshot at 60 minutes for ~30 IBU
Ounce of Mosaic, Citra and Vic Secret at 170 degree whirlpool for 40 minutes
Same amount for dry hop
Imperial Juice Yeast

6 ounces of hops in a 3 gallon batch enough for this style or should I up it?
 
Brewing tomorrow and have a dry hop question. Doing a 3 gallon batch but using a 5 gallon big bubbler. Should I just drop pellets straight in or put them in a bag? If in a bag should I add marbles to sink them or let them float?
 
optimal_pizza said:
Giving this recipe a shot tonight in a 3 gallon batch:
84% Patagonia Pale
8% Flaked Oats
8% Flaked Wheat
Hopshot at 60 minutes for ~30 IBU
Ounce of Mosaic, Citra and Vic Secret at 170 degree whirlpool for 40 minutes
Same amount for dry hop
Imperial Juice Yeast

6 ounces of hops in a 3 gallon batch enough for this style or should I up it?
Click to expand...

I would up it. For reference. I use a full pound of hops in my 5 gallon batches. 1oz bittering, 6 ounces whirlpool at 170 degrees and 9 ounces dry hop for 3-5 days.
 
Brewing tomorrow as well. Hop hands is the only NE style IPA I have brewed so looking forward to see how it turns out. Adding 1 lb of Oat Malt and reducing the Flaked Oats to 1/2 pound.
 
Damn, this Citra/Equinox version is really growing on me. As good as the original and all the other hop combos I've tried so far. For my next batch I'm going to do a bit of an experiment. I'll use Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy but ferment with sacch trois with no temperature control. I want to see if I can make a good beer while my fermentation chamber is full.

20170111_161700_zpsay3gtv9q.jpg
 
stickyfinger said:
interested in that. mosaic adds a dank character yo a citra-mosaic. always wanted to try all mosaic
Click to expand...

I did an all Mosaic NEIPA style beer not too long ago that came out good. I made several attempts but this last one I enjoyed the most and will make it again.

http://www.laundrybrewing.com/2016/11/mosaic-once-again.html?m=1

I find the "dank" quality to come across as a grassy or grain like aroma with Mosaic...not as "dank" as some hops but rounded and pleasant. And I believe this aroma is related to a drying flavor in the finish of the beer.
 
EndOfLine said:
Did you attach a liquid keg post to your comical dip tube? Is that how you attach your jumper line?
Click to expand...

I use a tri to liquid ball lock adapter. Brewhardware has them. That connects to the liquid of my keg. I can do a sealed transfer that way. In the pic I was not, lid was open, as I was keg dry hopping and see no reason to purge the keg if I was to open it at the end to insert dry hops.

My flow is slow though, using 3/16 tubing right now at 1 psi transfer. Going to bump up to 5/16 tubing to see if that helps. My conical will not hold more than 1 psi, not a great lid design, but I got it used for 200, can't complain.
 
I brewed my first attempt with OP's recipe from post 1418 with WLP007 and 140:70 sulfate:chloride.
I brewed a 2.5G stovetop BIAB for the first time today and my mash temp was bang on the whole time and I ended up with an OG of 1.058 (I normally do 5G outdoor burner brews).

I know that oxidation can often be an issue with highly hopped beers and I am worried ending up with an oxidized beer since I used a 6G fermenter for my this 2.5G brew (I regretted as soon as I saw the quantity of headspace :mad: )

I need your advice regarding the hop schedule to minimize contact with oxygen. I had initially planned to dry hop in two batch on day 3 and day 7 and then cold crash on day 10 for 24h before bottling. Should I do all dry hop in one batch before the fermentation ends (day 3 or 4) to minimize oxygen entrance in the carboy? I also know that cold crashing ends up sucking air but from my previous experiences there is no way I can bottle without cold crashing with that much dry hop.

Any advice will be highly appreciated!

Btw it tasted so good with all the FO and whirlpool hops that I ended up sucking the thin layer of wort on top of the trub to drink it. :ban:

2222.jpg
 
Krown said:
I brewed my first attempt with OP's recipe from post 1418 with WLP007 and 140:70 sulfate:chloride.
I brewed a 2.5G stovetop BIAB for the first time today and my mash temp was bang on the whole time and I ended up with an OG of 1.058 (I normally do 5G outdoor burner brews).

I know that oxidation can often be an issue with highly hopped beers and I am worried ending up with an oxidized beer since I used a 6G fermenter for my this 2.5G brew (I regretted as soon as I saw the quantity of headspace :mad: )

I need your advice regarding the hop schedule to minimize contact with oxygen. I had initially planned to dry hop in two batch on day 3 and day 7 and then cold crash on day 10 for 24h before bottling. Should I do all dry hop in one batch before the fermentation ends (day 3 or 4) to minimize oxygen entrance in the carboy? I also know that cold crashing ends up sucking air but from my previous experiences there is no way I can bottle without cold crashing with that much dry hop.

Any advice will be highly appreciated!

Btw it tasted so good with all the FO and whirlpool hops that I ended up sucking the thin layer of wort on top of the trub to drink it. :ban:
Click to expand...

Give it its time in fermentation (i.e 2 weeks) rack via co2 to keg and carbonate You can choose to dryhop in primary or keg its up to you.
the minimal time in fermentation will minimise contact with oxygen.
 
Latest iteration. Ekuanot, Kohatu, and Citra. Really enjoying this one, but miss what mosaic brings to the table. Not sure why pic is rotated, but can't seem to fix that. Cheers!

IMG_1469.jpg
 
Krown said:
I also know that cold crashing ends up sucking air but from my previous experiences there is no way I can bottle without cold crashing with that much dry hop.

:
Click to expand...

I just tried the tying a hop bag on the end of the racking tube method of straining the hops, it worked out quite well. I much preferred it to pulling a bag of hops out of the neck of a carboy. My recipe isn't quite as hop heavy as this one, but you may want to give it a shot.
 
Just tried an NEIPA-ified version of the Sierra Nevada Celebration malt bill listed here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=5650896&postcount=1

I used the same malt bill but added 50 Rager IBUs of chinook at 60 min. and then 2 oz/gal of Denali dry hops in primary on about day 3. I used WY1318 for the first time in months and had about 100 ppm chloride and 13 ppm sulfate. The resulting beer is SUPER smooth, not bitter at all and has an aroma of very fresh tropical fruits, like papaya. The flavor is very round, smooth and malty with an intense pineapple finish. It's quite nice, very different.

This Denali description indicates pineapple, so I guess it makes sense:

https://www.morebeer.com/products/denali-experimental-06277-pellet-hops.html
 
Hey Braufessor, I know you use ss brew buckets to ferment. What's your transfer process for this beer? If already posted what post # is it? Thank you.
 
jakturner said:
All my bottled heavy hopped IPAs looked like that before I started kegging, they all came out muddy brownish color after a few weeks in the bottle. Pretty sure it's an oxidation issue
Click to expand...

interesting. are you only talking about the northeast style ones, or traditional ipas as well?

i'm new to the NE style, but so far the one I kegged and the two I bottled seem to taste and look pretty much the same. there is probably a little less cloudiness (but still plenty of hop haze) to the bottled versions, but we killed the keg tailgating at the potato bowl only 2 days after it was kegged, so who knows what it would look like now. to be fair tho, the bottled versions are pretty new still, but i'm going to go open one in an hour or so, after i finish the porter i'm drinking now.

my pliny clone last year did not change at all after bottling ever for a very slight reduction in hop aroma a few months down the road. fwiw, i'm not really careful at all about oxygen, and was racking all my beers to secondary for dry-hopping, etc...

I'm curious when you are adding the dryhops. I did mine in 2 additions, one after 2 days (gravity had dropped to a bit below 1.020), and one 4 days after that, let it sit for 4 days, then cold-crashed and bottled.
 
motosapiens said:
my pliny clone last year did not change at all after bottling ever for a very slight reduction in hop aroma a few months down the road. fwiw, i'm not really careful at all about oxygen, and was racking all my beers to secondary for dry-hopping, etc...
Click to expand...

If this is true, then you have stumbled upon a miraculous achievement...
 
Soyben said:
I just tried the tying a hop bag on the end of the racking tube method of straining the hops, it worked out quite well. I much preferred it to pulling a bag of hops out of the neck of a carboy. My recipe isn't quite as hop heavy as this one, but you may want to give it a shot.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, I will try it as well! I will try to attach it tightly so it is not loose and don't scrub the bottom of my primary while I transfer.
 
stickyfinger said:
Just tried an NEIPA-ified version of the Sierra Nevada Celebration malt bill listed here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=5650896&postcount=1

I used the same malt bill but added 50 Rager IBUs of chinook at 60 min. and then 2 oz/gal of Denali dry hops in primary on about day 3. I used WY1318 for the first time in months and had about 100 ppm chloride and 13 ppm sulfate. The resulting beer is SUPER smooth, not bitter at all and has an aroma of very fresh tropical fruits, like papaya. The flavor is very round, smooth and malty with an intense pineapple finish. It's quite nice, very different.

This Denali description indicates pineapple, so I guess it makes sense:

https://www.morebeer.com/products/denali-experimental-06277-pellet-hops.html
Click to expand...


Curious how this comes out. The "NE-take" on other recipes is quite interesting to me.
 

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