New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[mintyice]

Here's my characterization of loral hops.

Add citra's usual aroma to the mix and you get a very awesome citrus/floral/lemony blend. I recently had a Bale Breaker Citra Slicker Fresh Hop IPA and it's one of the top 3 IPA's I've ever had.

Sounds like it would be a rad saison hop.

 

[stickyfinger]

Cold crashing does not remove the haze. I usually cold crash before kegging just to settle out the lose dry hops. Haze is still plentiful.

i agree. cold crashing will drop big hop particles and more yeast. the beer will be hazy as heck still. it just helps with racking to avoid clogs if you cold crash

 

[stickyfinger]

oh,and i really don't think the air let in from cold crashing is that detrimental. my beer is super hoppy despite a little air coming in after the cold crash.

 

[stickyfinger]

my dream is to set up bungs with valves in them to hook up my CO2 line before racking, but i don't know if it will make a difference. Loving this 1:1 citra:mosaic right now!

 

[grassfeeder]

latest attempt.

 

[scottsor]

Got this carb'd up over the weekend and had the first pour last night. Extremely happy with how it turned out.

OG: 1.067
FG: 1.015

74% 2-row
10% flaked oats
10% flaked wheat
6% table sugar

.2oz citra @60
3oz citra at flameout while chilling
3oz citra at 165 for 30 minutes
5oz citra 1st dryhop on day 4
8oz citra 2nd dryhop on day 10

1318 yeast
Started at 66 and raised to 70 by day 3

Water:
125:125 chloride to sulfate

Thanks for starting this thread braufessor. This was my first all grain batch and it definitely wouldn't have been as successful without this ongoing conversation.

Apologies for the poor lighting in the picture.

 

[stickyfinger]

Got this carb'd up over the weekend and had the first pour last night. Extremely happy with how it turned out.

OG: 1.067
FG: 1.015

74% 2-row
10% flaked oats
10% flaked wheat
6% table sugar

.2oz citra @60
3oz citra at flameout while chilling
3oz citra at 165 for 30 minutes
5oz citra 1st dryhop on day 4
8oz citra 2nd dryhop on day 10

1318 yeast
Started at 66 and raised to 70 by day 3

Water:
125:125 chloride to sulfate

Thanks for starting this thread braufessor. This was my first all grain batch and it definitely wouldn't have been as successful without this ongoing conversation.

Apologies for the poor lighting in the picture.

impressive first all-grain batch!!

 

[Enemygod]

Has anybody tried this with the Omega Hothead yeast strain? Its supposed to have citrus lemon characteristics.

 

[BrunDog]

Man I love this beer!

Thats all...

 

[jammin]

Got this carb'd up over the weekend and had the first pour last night. Extremely happy with how it turned out.

OG: 1.067
FG: 1.015

74% 2-row
10% flaked oats
10% flaked wheat
6% table sugar

.2oz citra @60
3oz citra at flameout while chilling
3oz citra at 165 for 30 minutes
5oz citra 1st dryhop on day 4
8oz citra 2nd dryhop on day 10

1318 yeast
Started at 66 and raised to 70 by day 3

Water:
125:125 chloride to sulfate

Thanks for starting this thread braufessor. This was my first all grain batch and it definitely wouldn't have been as successful without this ongoing conversation.

Apologies for the poor lighting in the picture.

Not sure why you'd use % on the grain bill & go to solid numbers on the hops.

 

[Braufessor]

Not sure why you'd use % on the grain bill & go to solid numbers on the hops.

I actually prefer percents on grain bills.... efficiency can easily vary by 20% from one person's system to another. Percent for grain makes infinitely more sense than giving pounds of grain.

 

[beardandbutter]

Plus it lets people choose their own batch size while keeping proportions the same

 

[jammin]

^obviously talking about hops, chief

I actually prefer percents on grain bills.... efficiency can easily vary by 20% from one person's system to another. Percent for grain makes infinitely more sense than giving pounds of grain.

so can you explain how you use that logic to derive amount of hops needed, captain obvious?

 

[rtracer]

Awesome. Can't believe they let you in the Hop Grenade with a beer like this Love listening to the BN, even if they don't all buy into the NE IPA

I snuck it in...

 

[Braufessor]

^obviously talking about hops, chief



so can you explain how you use that logic to derive amount of hops needed, captain obvious?

To be honest - I don't. I just use straight up oounces - generally in whole or half ounce quantities.

In my opinion, the potential down side in regard to using "whole numbers" on hops compared to grain is minimal. Especially compared to what a PITA it is to constantly "measure" what you are doing with them.

Grain is simple - It has a pretty consistent extraction from batch to batch, bag to bag, year to year. If you keep track, your system has a consistent efficiency. You can measure the results with a hydrometer..... Simple, fast, accurate.

Hops are not simple. You have different AA from bag to bag - much less from year to year. You really have no actual clue as the the extraction of your system. As home brewers, there is basically no actual way to even "measure" the impact (in IBU's) other than perception..... my perception tends to be that it does not make a huge difference if I have 4 x 3 ounce additions in 6.00 gallons or 6.5 gallons. There is not a detectable difference (to me) if I have 11% AA hops one time and 13% AA hops another time.

Maybe others are better at that than me.

Plus, for tons of people newer to brewing, they are not going to be into recalculating hop oils every batch on a dozen 1 ounce bags of hops. Those that use 1 ounce bags of hops are not keen on using .83 ounces out of a bag probably either.

So - mash efficiency can have a significant effect on the beer. That effect is consistent and repeatable. It is super easy to calculate, and you can measure it.

Hops - not so much.

 

[Brew_G]

I guess this is the place to discuss NE-style IPAs, so here goes...

I brewed my first one this past Sunday (10/30), and despite coming in a little low on OG and (stupidly) mashing a bit higher than I wanted, I'm pretty happy with how brewday went.

Sunshine Superman IPA

Recipe Type: All Grain BIAB (1-gallon dunk sparge)
Yeast: Wyeast 1968 – active starter
Batch Size: 5.25
Original Gravity: 1.063
Final Gravity (expected): 1.014
IBU: 50-ish

Grain Bill:
5 lbs Briess Two-Row (38.8%)
4.5 lbs Weyermann Pilsner (35.0%)
1.5 lbs Weyermann Wheat Malt (11.7%)
1.5 lbs Rolled (Quick) Oats (11.7%)
3 oz Honey Malt (1.5%)
3 oz Sauermalz (1.5%)

60 minute mash @155F (was shooting for 152F)

Hops:
10 min:
1 oz Galaxy (14.8)
1 oz Citra (12.5)

Whirlpool (30 minutes starting at 165F):
1 oz Galaxy
1 oz Citra
1 oz Columbus (12.9)
2 oz Amarillo (9.7)

Dry Hop 1 (6-ish days):
1 oz Citra
1 oz Columbus
2 oz Amarillo

Dry Hop 2 (3-ish days):
3 oz Galaxy
2 oz Citra

Water:
I use 100% RO water, and utilize Bru’n Water to determine my mineral additions. I add it to the full volume of water, then pour one gallon into my sparge pot.
2.9 g Gypsum
4.8 g CaCl
0.7 g NaCl

Ca = 72.3
Na = 18.4
Sulfate = 60
Chloride = 102.9
Bicarbonate = 16

As I mentioned, I mashed higher than I wanted, and I know why. I had my nearly 4-year-old daughter help me mash in (she wanted to stir her witch’s brew), and even though I finished off stirring everything in, I don’t think I stirred well enough on the bottom and I had heat pockets that didn’t “release” when I checked my mash temp (may have been a problem with the oats). I hit the burner and stirred for about a minute until I read 151F. After the 45-minute mash and a healthy stir before pulling the bag, the temp was 153F. Oops.

OG came in at 1.063 instead of 1.068, but that’s probably not a bad thing in the end. I have my suspicions on why, but I’m not going to parse details. My efficiency has been pretty consistent over the last six or so batches, so, until I can get a few more data points, I’ll just chalk this up to being an anomaly. I guess that means I’ll have to brew a few more of these. Damn…

Wort came out very bright – probably the brightest in all my beers so far in two years of brewing. Makes perfect sense since I had all light malts and adjuncts, but if this comes out of the fermenter somewhat close in color and with the fruitiness I’m hoping for, I’ll be stoked as stoked can be.

I used 1968, as I've been using it quite a bit and I really like what it brings to a beer (plus I have plenty in the fridge). I don't know how many folks have brewed this kind of beer with it, but even though it floccs out like crazy, I figured it can't hurt to try. I'll probably go with 1318 in a future batch to see the difference.

I’m going to have to bottle this, which I know isn’t ideal. I’m waiting on the right sized fridge on Craigslist before I get my three-tap kegerator build going (I have literally everything else I need). I need one that I get through the door to the basement, but it’s proving damn harder to find than I had expected! Luckily, I have a bunch of buddies who would be happy to help me drink this quickly (if it’s good), plus with Thanksgiving coming up I can provide some to the family for the T-day feast!

Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I hope it doesn’t suck

 

[stjimmyjos]

Really looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I hope it doesn’t suck

How much volumes of CO2 you recommend to this style of beer? 2.0? Or more?

 

[scottsor]

Not sure why you'd use % on the grain bill & go to solid numbers on the hops.

What other info do you want? I just gave percentages because I know everyone's efficiency varies. As stated this was my first AG batch and only third brew day overall, so not super experienced with pertinent brew info.

5 gallon batch
11lb 2-row
1.5lb flaked oats
1.5lb flaked wheat
.8lb sugar

Mash: 152 degrees

Wind: N/NE @4mph

 

[Brew_G]

How much volumes of CO2 you recommend to this style of beer? 2.0? Or more?

This is the first one I've brewed, so I'm probably not the best to answer, but I'll probably shoot for 2.2 vols or so.

 

[Johow]

Here's my finish...5.6abv, Citra, Mosaic and Amarillo, 2.3:1 Chloride to sulfate. Very tasty!! I do BIAB and since I don't have a kettle big enough for full volume I do some kinda sparge. About 8 brews ago I switched from a pour over to a dunk sparge. My efficiency went way up so I have been overshooting my numbers since. I've been scaling my recipes ever since and finally I think I have Brewers friend set to hit numbers consistently.
Next batch I hope will come in at a very quafable 5%! Well it's in the fermenter now and I'll add the first round of dry hops today.
Here's to ya Braufessor!!!

 

[Braufessor]

How much volumes of CO2 you recommend to this style of beer? 2.0? Or more?

Yeah - I think 2.0 is right in the ballpark of where you want to be. 1.8-2.2 range I guess would be the area I am in. I can't claim that my carbonation is precisely 2.0.... but that is what I would shoot for.

 

[stickyfinger]

Brau, what are your latest thoughts on the level of sulfate and chloride in this style? I assume you've brewed the original recipe (including hops) with a large spectrum of salt amounts. I am interested in trying a high chloride, low sulfate version. What did you notice about that?

 

[Braufessor]

Brau, what are your latest thoughts on the level of sulfate and chloride in this style? I assume you've brewed the original recipe (including hops) with a large spectrum of salt amounts. I am interested in trying a high chloride, low sulfate version. What did you notice about that?

I think this is something I really need to revisit. I have been "survival brewing" the last 3 months just trying to keep beer on tap. Fall is terrible for me with the start of school and coaching.... so, I have really not paid attention to details or experimented at all.

The last 3 months or more I have been going with something in the 140-150 sulfate to 70-80 Chloride. I have really liked that and have just kind of been sticking with it out of simplicity. I am a little hesitant to make any claims comparing one profile to another as I have not done them head to head with the same recipe. I "feel" like maybe this profile is a bit brighter, while maintaining the roundness and smoothness you want in a beer like this. But, that could simply be me thinking too much.

In theory.... I would expect that the higher chloride would round it out. I have never gone over 130-140 range probably on chloride. I think the big thing with this style is that whatever profile you do, something that is a bit subdued is probably better than going too far to any extreme.

I feel like I have everything else where I basically want it at this point (in the update post #1418.) My plan is to do 3 versions exactly the same except for the water and then evaluate to see if there is actually anything of significance.
150:75
75:150
120:120

I honestly think just about anything in those ranges is going to give you a good beer and it may simply come down to personal preferences. Or, it might not even make a big enough difference to matter either.

The only water profile that I really did not like that much was when I went 200 sulfate: 50 Chloride. Just did not come across quite like I thought it should and was quite noticeable.

 

[stickyfinger]

thanks for the info. i should really make some stock solutions and spike my ipa in the glass too.

 

[Braufessor]

thanks for the info. i should really make some stock solutions and spike my ipa in the glass too.

I will likely do the 150:75 and 75:150 later next week and will report back.

 

[Gentlemans_Ale]

Cold crashing does not remove the haze. I usually cold crash before kegging just to settle out the lose dry hops. Haze is still plentiful.

Yep

 

[whovous]

I need to know if I have a problem or if I am just too impatient.

My first try at the NE IPA involved a full package of Gigayeast Vermont IPA in a 2.5 gallon batch which never got much below 1.020. I learned that is a common problem with first-gen Conan. So, I made a batch of Centennial Blonde and harvested the yeast at the end. Thereafter, I've made a few more generations of starters on a stir plate (I am not confident about my process here) and I wound up with a fourth generation which gave me a lot of krausen in the flask (a first for me with Conan) and which took off quickly and very prettily in my new Catalyst fermenter. The krausen was completely gone in under 72 hours. At 96 hours I swapped the trub jar for an eight ounce jar filled with three ounces of pellet hops and took a gravity measurement.

1.030! Isn't this way too high for this stage of the proceedings? My OG was about 1.055. Are there further actions I should take now, or do I just need to be more patient?

 

[Braufessor]

I need to know if I have a problem or if I am just too impatient.

My first try at the NE IPA involved a full package of Gigayeast Vermont IPA in a 2.5 gallon batch which never got much below 1.020. I learned that is a common problem with first-gen Conan. So, I made a batch of Centennial Blonde and harvested the yeast at the end. Thereafter, I've made a few more generations of starters on a stir plate (I am not confident about my process here) and I wound up with a fourth generation which gave me a lot of krausen in the flask (a first for me with Conan) and which took off quickly and very prettily in my new Catalyst fermenter. The krausen was completely gone in under 72 hours. At 96 hours I swapped the trub jar for an eight ounce jar filled with three ounces of pellet hops and took a gravity measurement.

1.030! Isn't this way too high for this stage of the proceedings? My OG was about 1.055. Are there further actions I should take now, or do I just need to be more patient?

4 days might be a bit quick to expect to be at final gravity.... but, yeah, 1.030 seems a bit high.
My first thought in any situation like this is confidence that your reading was correct. Hydrometer? Refractometer? Are you sure they are calibrated and accurate?

 

[whovous]

Thanks for responding to this. Two hydrometers. One reads 1.000 in water. The other is a "finishing" hydrometer, if that makes sense. The markings are much further apart and thus easier to read, but it only goes up to 1.020, so all it really tells me is that I am well above that number. I think 1.030 is pretty close to correct.

I am going away for a few days, so I guess I will start with patience whether I want to or not. If I do not see much change on Sunday should I do a new starter of Conan on Sunday night and pitch on Monday, or should I pitch more of a sure thing with US=05? I want to think I pitched plenty of healthy yeast for the size of my batch, but I confess I do not really grok liquid yeast.

FC temp is 68. For about eight hours on Tuesday it dropped to about 62, although I doubt the FV got nearly that low. Is this a factor? Should I now increase the FV temp? If so, to what level?

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks for responding to this. Two hydrometers. One reads 1.000 in water. The other is a "finishing" hydrometer, if that makes sense. The markings are much further apart and thus easier to read, but it only goes up to 1.020, so all it really tells me is that I am well above that number. I think 1.030 is pretty close to correct.

I am going away for a few days, so I guess I will start with patience whether I want to or not. If I do not see much change on Sunday should I do a new starter of Conan on Sunday night and pitch on Monday, or should I pitch more of a sure thing with US=05? I want to think I pitched plenty of healthy yeast for the size of my batch, but I confess I do not really grok liquid yeast.

FC temp is 68. For about eight hours on Tuesday it dropped to about 62, although I doubt the FV got nearly that low. Is this a factor? Should I now increase the FV temp? If so, to what level?

If your beer is 62 degrees that is definitely a factor for sure. You never want to drop the temp on beer while it is fermenting.... you want to start lower and keep it going up until it is finished. For Conan, I generally pitch at 62-64. Fermentation (in my cool basement) takes it up to 68 or so over day 2-3-4. Then I put my fermenter upstairs, do first dry hop, and it can sit at 70-72 from day 4 through day 12 or so.
If you add more yeast - I would use 1056 or US 05..... I would not add more conan to try to finish it out.