New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Torrefaction]

I heard/red Conan was derived by the older Magic Hat yeast, and the latter is now sold as WLP095/Burlington Ale Yeast. Can't get Conan in Montreal, but I was really happy with the results using WLP095 in my last NE IPA. While I can't compare, they sound very similar. On another note, while I was damn proud of said Northeast IPA (a juicy, pillowy tropical treat), the O2 introduced through bottling gave it a blink-and-miss-it shelf life. The beer peaked at three weeks in terms of aroma and flavor, and by four weeks it was already losing its luster. Next time I make this style, I'll be pouring Co2 into my bottling bucket, etc, to give the beer a longer window, but I think ideally this style needs to be kegged to keep as much oxygen out as possible.

 

[Braufessor]

I heard/red Conan was derived by the older Magic Hat yeast, and the latter is now sold as WLP095/Burlington Ale Yeast. Can't get Conan in Montreal, but I was really happy with the results using WLP095 in my last NE IPA. While I can't compare, they sound very similar. On another note, while I was damn proud of said Northeast IPA (a juicy, pillowy tropical treat), the O2 introduced through bottling gave it a blink-and-miss-it shelf life. The beer peaked at three weeks in terms of aroma and flavor, and by four weeks it was already losing its luster. Next time I make this style, I'll be pouring Co2 into my bottling bucket, etc, to give the beer a longer window, but I think ideally this style needs to be kegged to keep as much oxygen out as possible.

Everything I have read about Conan yeast is that it is a yeast(of English origin) that Greg Noonan brought with him, from Europe to Vermont, when he opened the Vermont Pub and Brewery. John Kimmich worked under Greg and later used the same yeast at The Alchemist.
Where Magic Hat fits into the timeline, I am not sure, and have not really hear much about.

*When I used a bottling bucket, I did purge it with C02.... I am sure it is not perfect, but it probably does help and is better than nothing. I also put my priming solution into the bucket first and then racked beer onto it to help with mixing and needing to stir as little as possible.

I suppose you could use the priming tablets in bottles and go directly from fermenter to bottle - I use SS brew buckets with spigots on them. Before that, I used bottling buckets as fermenters to avoid the need to siphon. Bottling buckets make great fermenters if you take some extra precautions keeping the spigots clean and sanitary.

 

[olotti]

*When I used a bottling bucket, I did purge it with C02.... I am sure it is not perfect, but it probably does help and is better than nothing. I also put my priming solution into the bucket first and then racked beer onto it to help with mixing and needing to stir as little as possible.
.

So how would this be accomplished? Wouldn't the co2 just dissipate out of the large opening of the bucket or is it heavy enough it would just hang out in the bucket. So would u purge with co2 then rack the beer on top of it. I'd be willing to try this brau as u know I've had oxidation issues in the past with these ipas plus I need to get a co2 bottle as part of my future kegging setup anyway.

 

[Braufessor]

So how would this be accomplished? Wouldn't the co2 just dissipate out of the large opening of the bucket or is it heavy enough it would just hang out in the bucket. So would u purge with co2 then rack the beer on top of it. I'd be willing to try this brau as u know I've had oxidation issues in the past with these ipas plus I need to get a co2 bottle as part of my future kegging setup anyway.

I took my bottling bucket, added priming sugar/syrup that I had boiled. I set lid on bottling bucket. Run sanitized CO2 tube in through hole in bucket lid, purge. Remove CO2 tube. Insert racking hose through hole, to the bottom, rack beer into bucket. At end, lift lid, use stainless steal sanitized spoon to Gently stir up beer/sugar a bit more. Put lid back on, purge head space with CO2, cover hole with tin foil, bottle. Maybe bleed a bit more CO2 in a couple times while bottling if you think it might be necessary.

Absolutely not O2 free by any means. But, it can cut down on it for sure. In particular, right at the beginning when the beer is first racking into an empty bucket full of air.... that is probably the worst time as the beer is in full contact with the air. After there is an inch or two in the bucket, you are filling from the bottom, under the liquid, and there is not the "sloshing" of beer with air. There is just the surface contact at that point.

 

[Johow]

Added my first Dry Hops (1oz each, Citra, Mosaic & Amarillo) this morning. SG was at 1.015 or so. Very thick Krausen so I had the use my sanitized spoon to open a passage for the pellets. It smells great in there. I'll add the second helping in about 4 or 5 days.

 

[rtracer]

Had my daughters 8th Bday party yesterday, and had lots of people over our house yesterday. I gotta say this is a well received beer, and liked over a broad spectrum of people. From my friend who likes Pacifico type beers, to my fellow craft beer snob buddy, to a couple wives who don't drink beer. They all loved it.

Anyways, I can tell this is going to go fast and I am going to brew it again Wed.

I have a heavily hopped/dry hopped APA that is ready for kegging. I used the rest of my Conan in that batch.

What do you guys think if I time it right and keg that beer during my brew, and then just rack directly onto the yeast cake?

 

[Braufessor]

Had my daughters 8th Bday party yesterday, and had lots of people over our house yesterday. I gotta say this is a well received beer, and liked over a broad spectrum of people. From my friend who likes Pacifico type beers, to my fellow craft beer snob buddy, to a couple wives who don't drink beer. They all loved it.

Anyways, I can tell this is going to go fast and I am going to brew it again Wed.

I have a heavily hopped/dry hopped APA that is ready for kegging. I used the rest of my Conan in that batch.

What do you guys think if I time it right and keg that beer during my brew, and then just rack directly onto the yeast cake?

Personally, I would not rack onto the entire yeast cake.

1.) I would make sure the APA tastes good and everything is fine with the yeast.

2.) Assuming the beer is good..... I would swirl up the yeast slurry left behind in your fermenter and pour it off into "x" number of sanitized mason jars.

I would use one of those jars to pitch into your new beer.

Store some of the other yeast if you want, or just use the one jar for this beer and throw the rest out.... but, a pint or quart jar of yeast slurry from the fermenter will be more than enough.

 

[abbysdad2006]

Here is mine, not quite fully carbed. Wow, nothing like any beer I have had or brewed before. Being here on the West Coast I have not had the opportunity to try the likes of Heady, Trillium ect. Although the style is catching on and Fieldworks in Berkley has one on tap I want to go try.
I'm calling it Morning Mimosa....cause that's kinda what it tasted like. Such a nice mouth feel. Looking forward to see how it progresses over the next couple weeks....if I can keep it around long enough.
Thanks for the recipe!!
OP's recipe with Galaxy, Citra and Equinox

Damn!! That looks amazing!! You brewed the OP's recipe and just changed the hops?

 

[rtracer]

Damn!! That looks amazing!! You brewed the OP's recipe and just changed the hops?

Yes, same grain bill, maybe just a little more of each as I came in at 1.065.
People can't believe there is no added grapefruit or orange juice. haha.
I just swapped Equinox for the Mosaic.

 

[cheesebach]

Thanks for the all the feedback about the WLP095 yeast. I decided based on the comments here that it was worth giving it a shot to save me the 2 hour trip it would take to try to get some of the vermont ale yeast from TYB. This weekend was my first time brewing the recipe so I won't have much to compare to, but I'll post back here in a few weeks with how it turned out in case anyone else was thinking about trying that yeast.

My guess based on their marketing is that it probably is a Conan strain, but unless someone from White Labs can clarify, it'll probably be awhile before we know for sure. If for some reason this batch doesn't turn out how I expect, I figure I'll just plan on doing a split batch to compare the 2 yeasts the next time I brew this style

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks for the all the feedback about the WLP095 yeast. I decided based on the comments here that it was worth giving it a shot to save me the 2 hour trip it would take to try to get some of the vermont ale yeast from TYB. This weekend was my first time brewing the recipe so I won't have much to compare to, but I'll post back here in a few weeks with how it turned out in case anyone else was thinking about trying that yeast.

My guess based on their marketing is that it probably is a Conan strain, but unless someone from White Labs can clarify, it'll probably be awhile before we know for sure. If for some reason this batch doesn't turn out how I expect, I figure I'll just plan on doing a split batch to compare the 2 yeasts the next time I brew this style

I have now brewed this with 6 different yeasts..... Conan, 1318, 1056, 1272, 1450, 007...... every one worked just fine. To be honest, 1318 is my least favorite so far (and that is probably actually one of the favorites for most people). There have been several others who have used still other yeasts - even lager yeasts. I really have yet to hear anyone say "Damn, I ruined this beer because of the yeast I chose." I am thoroughly convinced the ultimate "key" to beers like this has a lot more to do with Hop selection, Hop schedule, Grain bill with low caramel/crystal and plenty of flaked grains..... Short of using a hefe yeast, or a belgian yeast etc..... I think there is a broad group of yeasts that will make this beer.

 

[stickyfinger]

What about going with 4:1 base malt:flakes oats but putting in maybe 5%crystal 10/20?

 

[Braufessor]

What about going with 4:1 base malt:flakes oats but putting in maybe 5%crystal 10/20?

I would think that would be fine.... you are talking pretty low Lovibond there. Not like you are going to get any crazy caramel flavors out of 8 ounces of Caramel 15.

 

[hopbrad]

I have now brewed this with 6 different yeasts..... Conan, 1318, 1056, 1272, 1450, 007...... every one worked just fine. To be honest, 1318 is my least favorite so far (and that is probably actually one of the favorites for most people). There have been several others who have used still other yeasts - even lager yeasts. I really have yet to hear anyone say "Damn, I ruined this beer because of the yeast I chose." I am thoroughly convinced the ultimate "key" to beers like this has a lot more to do with Hop selection, Hop schedule, Grain bill with low caramel/crystal and plenty of flaked grains..... Short of using a hefe yeast, or a belgian yeast etc..... I think there is a broad group of yeasts that will make this beer.

Have you had samples side by side? I've done Conan and s-05, both split between the same batch and side by side. The s-05 was not as juicy as the conan. I agree that it didnt ruin the beer but the only thing i would attribute was the yeast that it made the noticeable difference.

 

[Braufessor]

Have you had samples side by side? I've done Conan and s-05, both split between the same batch and side by side. The s-05 was not as juicy as the conan. I agree that it didnt ruin the beer but the only thing i would attribute was the yeast that it made the noticeable difference.

I have not personally brewed with 05..... I have had beers brewed with it commercially. I am not a huge fan - I have found it hit and miss. In discussions with some brewers who have used it commercially, I know they had some frustrations with it. Consistency issues. Some that I know have switched away from it commercially and they are happier with liquid variations.

I do know some people like it, some have success with it. From some things I have heard.... some pretty popular NE IPA breweries use it with good success. However, personally, from my interaction with some good brewers who have worked with it - I think there are better options (including similar liquid strains like 1056 and 1272).

I have had some of the others side by side. But, I think the two I really want to revisit of the ones I have used are 1272 and Conan. Those seem to be the two that stick out to me the most as far as personal preference.

 

[grassfeeder]

looking to enter one of these NEIPA's into a home-brew competition using BJCP 2015 Style guidelines. What class would you guys recommend it go under?

 

[m00ps]

looking to enter one of these NEIPA's into a home-brew competition using BJCP 2015 Style guidelines. What class would you guys recommend it go under?

Just do regular or imperial ipa based on your abv. I've entered hazy style ones like this 3 times in my short competition experience with good results

 

[BrunDog]

I have not personally brewed with 05..... I have had beers brewed with it commercially. I am not a huge fan - I have found it hit and miss. In discussions with some brewers who have used it commercially, I know they had some frustrations with it. Consistency issues. Some that I know have switched away from it commercially and they are happier with liquid variations.



I do know some people like it, some have success with it. From some things I have heard.... some pretty popular NE IPA breweries use it with good success. However, personally, from my interaction with some good brewers who have worked with it - I think there are better options (including similar liquid strains like 1056 and 1272).



I have had some of the others side by side. But, I think the two I really want to revisit of the ones I have used are 1272 and Conan. Those seem to be the two that stick out to me the most as far as personal preference.

Glad you said this. I have never been a fan of the beer produced by it, and thought it was just me because it is so popular.

 

[stickyfinger]

I used to use US-05 all of the time. It makes great American style beers, but you have to keep it in the mid-60s. Too low, and it is peach city. Too high, and it gives lots of diacetyl. In between, like 65, i CAN give great beers. I don't like it in the NE IPA though, too drying, bitter and not smooth. for a west coast ipa, it works great.

 

[BrunDog]

I also don't like the lag... waiting for dry yeast is just not my gig.

That said, I am really enjoying this beer. Purging the keg properly and filling underneath it definitely helped reduce oxidation.

 

[armenianbrewer]

I have now brewed this with 6 different yeasts..... Conan, 1318, 1056, 1272, 1450, 007...... every one worked just fine. To be honest, 1318 is my least favorite so far (and that is probably actually one of the favorites for most people). There have been several others who have used still other yeasts - even lager yeasts. I really have yet to hear anyone say "Damn, I ruined this beer because of the yeast I chose." I am thoroughly convinced the ultimate "key" to beers like this has a lot more to do with Hop selection, Hop schedule, Grain bill with low caramel/crystal and plenty of flaked grains..... Short of using a hefe yeast, or a belgian yeast etc..... I think there is a broad group of yeasts that will make this beer.

Have you seen anyone use WLP644?

 

[crusader1612]

Have you seen anyone use WLP644?

Lots of people use it, but I dont think you could call it a NE IPA?
given the strain your using? The strain is a wild sacc strain, i thinkthe consensus is 1318 for it to be considered to "Style"

however I bet 644 would make a killer beer from a recipe like that.

 

[Braufessor]

I used to use US-05 all of the time. It makes great American style beers, but you have to keep it in the mid-60s. Too low, and it is peach city. Too high, and it gives lots of diacetyl. In between, like 65, i CAN give great beers. I don't like it in the NE IPA though, too drying, bitter and not smooth. for a west coast ipa, it works great.

Diacetyl is the #1 complaint I have heard about it... Especially (oddly) dacetyl showing up out of nowhere after dry hopping... Beer tasting good after primary and then changing dramatically with dry hopping and begging. I have sampled beer out of primary in brewery that was wonderful.... then, a week or less later, after dry hop, just not that good. This was a consistent issue that went away immediately upon using different yeast.

 

[Braufessor]

Lots of people use it, but I dont think you could call it a NE IPA?
given the strain your using? The strain is a wild sacc strain, i thinkthe consensus is 1318 for it to be considered to "Style"

however I bet 644 would make a killer beer from a recipe like that.

Actually, you might be surprised. Every yeast I used resulted in what I would define as a "NE IPA." I have a Saison I am drinking right now that I used 644 in..... I could actually see it working quite well. It will be a bit different for sure - but, I bet it might lend itself well to this. If you try it - let us know for sure. I am intrigued with the possibility of it. You absolutely do NOT need to use 1318 to be "to style" with this. Like I said, I have used 6 different yeasts, and they all produced a "NE IPA."

 

[philipCT]

Actually, you might be surprised. Every yeast I used resulted in what I would define as a "NE IPA." ...

So, with all the chatter about Conan, does anyone have a firm opinion about what the best source is for that yeast? I know there is "Vermont Ale" from The Yeast Bay. Then there's Omega's "Double IPA". Maybe there are others.

What I've heard is that some sources may be inconsistent, some report poor attenuation. I'd like to use this yeast on my next NEIPA, but obviously I'd like to get the most reliable one.

 

[user 141939]

Magic hat = ringwood yeast.

 

[Braufessor]

So, with all the chatter about Conan, does anyone have a firm opinion about what the best source is for that yeast? I know there is "Vermont Ale" from The Yeast Bay. Then there's Omega's "Double IPA". Maybe there are others.

What I've heard is that some sources may be inconsistent, some report poor attenuation. I'd like to use this yeast on my next NEIPA, but obviously I'd like to get the most reliable one.

I've had good luck with Yeast Bay. However, I always take the first generation through a low abv. Blonde Ale. Then I collect yeast for re-pitching purposes into bigger IPA's... I think if you pitch first generation Conan into a 1.060+ IPA (even with a starter) you are definitely flirting with the possibility of the beer finishing out at 1.014-1.016 range.

 

[crusader1612]

diacetyl is the #1 complaint.

yep!

 

[crusader1612]

Actually, you might be surprised. Every yeast I used resulted in what I would define as a "NE IPA." I have a Saison I am drinking right now that I used 644 in..... I could actually see it working quite well. It will be a bit different for sure - but, I bet it might lend itself well to this. If you try it - let us know for sure. I am intrigued with the possibility of it. You absolutely do NOT need to use 1318 to be "to style" with this. Like I said, I have used 6 different yeasts, and they all produced a "NE IPA."

(I probably should've put conan style yeasts in there as well.)
Just my experiences I guess, the 644 tends to be quite fruity,pineapple etc, which is significanlty different to what could be considered a NEIPA.
but like you said it would proably still lend itself well to the recipe itself.

I'm a big Saison yeast man, and often thought about using a farmhouse yeast in something like tired hands.
So, the plan is for a yeast blend. - I have mostly access to WLP, but can get WY at a squeeze (its pricey over here)

My thoughts were a blend between WLP007/WLP644. my other idea was something like WLP002/WLP644 as a co-pitch, in a blonde ale much like yours, then re-pitch into something bigger and bolder. I'm just unsure how the blend would play, as in how much the 644 would come out, especially if the Clean sacc takes of ffirst.??

Maybe I could pitch a straight vial of WLP002, and pitch a 500ml starter of 644? active 644 and fresh 002, both should take off quickly enough?

Thoughts?

 

[stjimmyjos]

I brewed 23 liter batch with ctz around ~30 IBU and with flameout hops - Citra, Mosaic, Amarillo each 50g for whirlpool ~167F. Now i'm planning to add to dry hop in 2 parts - how much ? I was thinking about 50/25/25g Mosaic/Citra/Amarillo and the same 2nd addition around 3 days before bottling. or maybe add more citra? 1318 LAIII yeast

 

[armenianbrewer]

Actually, you might be surprised. Every yeast I used resulted in what I would define as a "NE IPA." I have a Saison I am drinking right now that I used 644 in..... I could actually see it working quite well. It will be a bit different for sure - but, I bet it might lend itself well to this. If you try it - let us know for sure. I am intrigued with the possibility of it. You absolutely do NOT need to use 1318 to be "to style" with this. Like I said, I have used 6 different yeasts, and they all produced a "NE IPA."

I do really want to try it but at the same time I'm not sure I want to ruin a batch either... do you know what you fermented at with 644? I know it likes warmer temperatures but I'm sure it'll produce a range of different fruit esters depending on what temperature it ferments

 

[EndOfLine]

Diacetyl is the #1 complaint I have heard about it... Especially (oddly) dacetyl showing up out of nowhere after dry hopping... Beer tasting good after primary and then changing dramatically with dry hopping and begging. I have sampled beer out of primary in brewery that was wonderful.... then, a week or less later, after dry hop, just not that good. This was a consistent issue that went away immediately upon using different yeast.

That is odd... I have never gotten dacetyl from 05, nor from its relatives: Chico, 1056, Cali 001. I do use a d rest however? Maybe that helps? 04 on the other hand I find gives a lot of Dacetyl unless it is controlled perfectly, it tends to be done with primary and go to sleep before 48 hours! This is home. however, At my brewery, the wit bread strain (04) has been at 90% completion, and needed a d rest after 48 hours, despite a temp of 65f

My complaint of 05 isn't dacetyl, it is cloudlyness. For whatever reason, this yeast is not flocking like it did from a few years ago. The yeast will stay in Suspension for a few weeks even cold. The extra yeast in suspension adds a odd flavor that goes away after some extra time cold conditioning.

But like I said before, when I rehydrate 05, and use a d rear I never have gotten D. Strange

 

[hopbrad]

That is odd... I have never gotten dacetyl from 05, nor from its relatives: Chico, 1056, Cali 001. I do use a d rest however? Maybe that helps? 04 on the other hand I find gives a lot of Dacetyl unless it is controlled perfectly, it tends to be done with primary and go to sleep before 48 hours! This is home. however, At my brewery, the wit bread strain (04) has been at 90% completion, and needed a d rest after 48 hours, despite a temp of 65f

My complaint of 05 isn't dacetyl, it is cloudlyness. For whatever reason, this yeast is not flocking like it did from a few years ago. The yeast will stay in Suspension for a few weeks even cold. The extra yeast in suspension adds a odd flavor that goes away after some extra time cold conditioning.

But like I said before, when I rehydrate 05, and use a d rear I never have gotten D. Strange

off topic, but figured id offer some experience with the cloudiness on s-05. I use it as my primary strain in my nano. this sounds weird but after fermentation is done, let it go warm for a few days. Its hot here and we turn off the temp control when fermentation is complete/conditioning time so the beer hits 80F+-. Im not sure why, but the beer drops clear. Give it a shot on a test batch

 

[Braufessor]

I do really want to try it but at the same time I'm not sure I want to ruin a batch either... do you know what you fermented at with 644? I know it likes warmer temperatures but I'm sure it'll produce a range of different fruit esters depending on what temperature it ferments

Started around 66-68 and finished around 70-72 maybe.

 

[EndOfLine]

off topic, but figured id offer some experience with the cloudiness on s-05. I use it as my primary strain in my nano. this sounds weird but after fermentation is done, let it go warm for a few days. Its hot here and we turn off the temp control when fermentation is complete/conditioning time so the beer hits 80F+-. Im not sure why, but the beer drops clear. Give it a shot on a test batch

Interesting! I'll try that. So like, after fg is hit, and it is conditioning you let it freerise up to 80? Or is that the d rest?

 

[Braufessor]

That is odd... I have never gotten dacetyl from 05, nor from its relatives: Chico, 1056, Cali 001. I do use a d rest however? Maybe that helps? 04 on the other hand I find gives a lot of Dacetyl unless it is controlled perfectly, it tends to be done with primary and go to sleep before 48 hours! This is home. however, At my brewery, the wit bread strain (04) has been at 90% completion, and needed a d rest after 48 hours, despite a temp of 65f

My complaint of 05 isn't dacetyl, it is cloudlyness. For whatever reason, this yeast is not flocking like it did from a few years ago. The yeast will stay in Suspension for a few weeks even cold. The extra yeast in suspension adds a odd flavor that goes away after some extra time cold conditioning.

But like I said before, when I rehydrate 05, and use a d rear I never have gotten D. Strange

The folks that I know who have had problems with US05 have ONLY had problems with it on heavily hopped NE IPA type beers. No problems at all on other beers. And, it was always something that happened post primary fermentation.... during dry hopping. It was weird.... but, predictable in those types of beers. They went from great after primary to somewhat "off-putting" after dry hop.

They got a lot of cloudiness from US05 too - had to do fining to get any level of clarity.

Other similar liquid varieties (1272, 1056.... types) - no problems.

 

[yeastylad]

I recently brewed my best attempt at this style yet.

Batch size 5.5 gallons

SG 1.063
FG 1.013
150 ppm sulfate
100ppm chloride
67.1% 2 row
16.1% wheat
13.4% flaked oats
3.4% CaraMunich
Mash 148F for 60 minutes
60-minute boil
1oz Columbus @ 30 minutes
1 oz el Dorado whirlpool 30 minutes @ 140F
1 oz mosaic whirlpool 30 minutes @ 140F

1L Starter London Ale III Wyeast 1318 @ 68F

1st dry hop @ day 5 in the primary
1.5oz el Dorado for 3 days
1.5oz mosaic for 3 days
Transfer to co2 purged dry hopping keg for 2nd dry hop
1.5oz el Dorado for 3 days
1.5oz mosaic for 3 days
Transfer to serving keg
Carbonate to 2.3 vols co2. Ready to drink Day 17ish.



View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477494241.158528.jpg

 

[RevKev]

The folks that I know who have had problems with US05 have ONLY had problems with it on heavily hopped NE IPA type beers. No problems at all on other beers. And, it was always something that happened post primary fermentation.... during dry hopping. It was weird.... but, predictable in those types of beers. They went from great after primary to somewhat "off-putting" after dry hop.

They got a lot of cloudiness from US05 too - had to do fining to get any level of clarity.

Other similar liquid varieties (1272, 1056.... types) - no problems.

I did my version of this with extremely high wheat content with US05, I actually had a long primary before yeast dump and the beer was off-putting prior to dry hop. The second dry hop addition really kicked the beer up a notch something off started to vanish and i don't know if it was just time or the dry hopping. I had issues with flocculation also even though I added whirlfoc, I was debating on Gelatin fining.

Strange as it never occurred like that prior on my other IPAs. Never used liquid yeast before always scared me.

 

[rtracer]

Brewing this again tomorrow. Any recommendation to bump the color to more of an orange hue while maintaining flavor?

 

[grassfeeder]

I brewed 23 liter batch with ctz around ~30 IBU and with flameout hops - Citra, Mosaic, Amarillo each 50g for whirlpool ~167F. Now i'm planning to add to dry hop in 2 parts - how much ? I was thinking about 50/25/25g Mosaic/Citra/Amarillo and the same 2nd addition around 3 days before bottling. or maybe add more citra? 1318 LAIII yeast

don't waste your time with a 2 stage dry hop, more risk of O2 exposure in my opinion.