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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Thoughts on thhop bill below?

Not sure how far I'd need to bitter (Thinking a nice FWH of Chinook)
50g Cascade - 5min
50g Mandarina Bavaria - 0min - dry
30g Motueka 0min - dry
15g Mosaic 0min - dry

Planning on picking up in a few hours. depending on your thoughts?
 
Cool, thank you! Same hop schedule as OP?


This one was Simcoe:Nelson 2:1 in WP, Simcoe:Nelson 1:1 in fermenter at tail end of fermentation, then Simcoe:Mosaic 1:1 in keg dry hop. This was delicious!

Have also done a Galaxy:Citra 2:1 in WP, Galaxy:Citra 2:1 in fermenter at tail end of fermentation, then all Galaxy in keg dry hop. This is amazing as well!
 
I have what might be a little bit of a silly question, but does this style work with whole leaf hops just as much as it does with pellet hops?
 
f76203948d.jpg


Here's a pic of that blonde ale I brewed. It actually turned out to be more of a NE pale than a blonde! Thanks LA3 + dryhops! It's delicious though.
 
For 11 gallons ( at dry hop stage 1 right now)

11lbs Muntons Maris Otter (43%)
8 lbs Great American two row (31%)
2 lbs Flaked Wheat (8%)
2lbs, 10oz rolled oats (11%) (whole container of Safeway rolled oats)
0.5 lbs Honey Malt (2%)
1.25 lbs Dextrose (5%)

1 oz Millenium (11.8 AA) FWH est 19.6 IBU
1 oz Millenium (11.8AA) 60 mins 19.6 IBU
2 oz Mosaic (11AA) 10 mins 13.2 IBU
2 oz Simcoe (11 AA) 5 mins 7.3 IBU
2oz Citra (12.3 AA) 1 min 1.8 IBU
Total IBU form boil 60

Wyeast 1318 yeast stir plate with yeast nutrient two step starter. est 400 billion cells

Chill to 160 for hop stand for 30 mins
1 oz Citra
1 oz Simcoe
1 oz Mosaic

Finish chilling to 70F, Split batch into 2ea 5.75 gallon batches pitch yeast OG 1.056 (66% efficiency)

Per split batch (5.75 gallons)
Dry hop in primary 6 days after brewing, SG 1014, let go for 4 days
2 oz Citra
1 oz Mosaic
1 oz Simcoe

Xfer to Secondary dry hop 2 for 5 days
1oz citra
1 oz Mosaic
1 oz Simcoe

Cold crash overnight, Keg and keg hop for a week
1 oz citra
1 oz simcoe
 
Brewed this yesterday, first time using flaked Oats ect. My brother who does not brew came over right as I was mashing in, first thing he says is "mmmm Oatmeal" haha.

Anyways, something I noticed that I have not heard mentioned is how slick, or do I even say, slimy the wort felt after mashing. I BAIB so I end up squeezing the bag. I am going to have to assume this is from all the flaked adjuncts?

All went well and the post chill gravity sample had a nice sweet, hoppy, full, silky smooth feel.
Here is a picture of my sample taken over an hour after pulling. The sample had "cleared" as there was a layer at the bottom, but damn its hazy.

I'm done, Conan is up to bat
20161001_183252.jpg
 
Bottled on 9/24- tried a bottle today. Fully carbed but the color FN sucks. Turned out copper in color. Only thing I can think of is it must be oxidation or something. Taste wise its pretty damn good. went for 30 IBU at FWH and the rest followed the OP's version. Next time brewing will be using 1318 but not sure on the hop bill yet. May also increase the oats & wheat a bit.
I really need to get a keg system
 
I know it has been said before, (OP confirmed their process in original post) in order to hit this style on the head, it is so IMPORTANT that you prevent any oxidation. To do that, you must minimize any contact with the air during the transfer. This means that using the standard auto-siphon from your bucket/carboy into keg is not going to cut it--and the flavor will off off--turn color.

Based on multiple forums--ideally, you will want to 1) purge the air out of your keg first, 2) then use C02 to transfer the beer out of the fermentor and into the keg. This will help ensure that the hops do not get exposed to air and will keep your aroma for a longer period and not turn your juicy brew into something that resembles an amber ale.

Google search for "transfer beer from fermentor into keg using C02" for further explanation/videos on youtube, etc.

You will also see a difference in your other IPA's by followng the above process.
 
I know it has been said before, (OP confirmed their process in original post) in order to hit this style on the head, it is so IMPORTANT that you prevent any oxidation. To do that, you must minimize any contact with the air during the transfer. This means that using the standard auto-siphon from your bucket/carboy into keg is not going to cut it--and the flavor will off off--turn color.

Based on multiple forums--ideally, you will want to 1) purge the air out of your keg first, 2) then use C02 to transfer the beer out of the fermentor and into the keg. This will help ensure that the hops do not get exposed to air and will keep your aroma for a longer period and not turn your juicy brew into something that resembles an amber ale.

Google search for "transfer beer from fermentor into keg using C02" for further explanation/videos on youtube, etc.

You will also see a difference in your other IPA's by followng the above process.

Couldn't agree more with this. Outside of a CO2 transfer I've also had great success transferring to a CO2 purged keg via gravity feed from my SS Brewbucket into the Keg out line.....
 
Couldn't agree more with this. Outside of a CO2 transfer I've also had great success transferring to a CO2 purged keg via gravity feed from my SS Brewbucket into the Keg out line.....


Perhaps I am slow, but can you share your method for the Brew bucket gravity feed? I have tried a closed transfer from the spigot/valve into a keg out line and it just sat there and doesn't move. I now use my speidels and pressurize transfer under co2 (light co2, very slowly) to the keg out line from the speidel spigot. But I'd like to use the bucket more.
 
Perhaps I am slow, but can you share your method for the Brew bucket gravity feed? I have tried a closed transfer from the spigot/valve into a keg out line and it just sat there and doesn't move. I now use my speidels and pressurize transfer under co2 (light co2, very slowly) to the keg out line from the speidel spigot. But I'd like to use the bucket more.

You've got to release the pressure valve on the keg and loosen the airlock on the brew bucket. While that makes it not totally a "closed" system, no O2 is going to penetrate the valve on the keg to make any difference what-so-ever.

It has worked flawlessly and I have yet to experience a single oxidized keg doing this.
 
So i brewed the OP's recipe on Saturday and pitched a healthy starter of Conan. I used two 1L starters, the first I grabbed a 1 pint mason jar and pitched a second liter into the remaining 800 ML. I ended up with almost 1/2" of clean yeast at the bottom of my 2L flask.
Pitched at 70, set chamber to 66. I had active fermentation when I woke up Saturday morning. Yesterday morning I bumped the temp to 67. Temps are based on insulated probe taped to carboy.
Anyways, I get home from work this evening and notice the little Krausen there was, has fallen and the fermentation seems to be dying down. Basically 48 hour from when I pitched.
Granted, I have never used Coan(Gigayeast vermont IPA) but its seems a little unsettling that fermentation seems to be finishing up so quickly. Seriously the Krausen was like maybe 1/2" thick at its highest.
I've really only used wlp001 in the past so that's all I have to compare it to.
My OG was 1.064 and mashed around 152.
 
I've used the same Conan (Gigayeast) and it finished up in 4-5 days. The initial version took a little longer but the 2nd and 3rd gen were pretty quick.
 
I brewed this a few weeks ago and finally got it kegged. It's still a little under carb'd but tastes fantastic. Reminds me very much of many other NE IPA's i've had.

PvKTOoi.png


I opted for Pearl Malt instead of Golden Promise and went Nugget for bittering and 100% Ariana in the whirlpool and DH. I feel the water profile for the town I live in works pretty well for this style, I didn't modify it at all and it came out pretty well rounded/soft in mouth-feel. The only issue I had was the golden pitch of gigayeast vermont ipa I had seemed to be a little sluggish. It never really took off but fermented down to 1.014 (OG: 1.055)
 
Looking to brew up a slightly modified version of my favorite NE IPA thus far, 80% English Pale Malt (this time I'm using Optic - last time was Pearl, which was awesome) and 20% flaked oats. I am going with Conan, as that is my favorite I have used thus far. I am still debating a couple things:

salts: last time I used 1:1 chloride to sulfate at 150 ppm each. I thought it was a bit dry on occasion, but overall I liked it a lot. I was debating dropping to a 75ppm:150ppm sulfate to chloride ratio for this one. Good idea?

hops: last time I did citra,mosaic galaxy, 6 oz in dry hop 1 and 6 oz in dry hop 2. This time I think i want to do a 100% citra and then the 1:1 citra-mosaic that people rave about, 6 gallons of each. Has anyone thrown in a few ounces after a day or two of fermentation. Thought it might be fun to add 2 oz at like day 2 or so, 6 oz at day 5, 6 oz at day 7-12 somewhere and then maybe 1-2 oz of citra in the keg.

oh, also, most of the time that i have added dry hops to the keg, i've found them to give a very dank quality that i did not love. the exception is citra. i did a 100% citra keg-hop in a barleywine one time that was awesome. i am thinking that maybe citra is a type of hop that can be keg-hopped with no dankness. anyone else have any input on keg-hopping with citra or other hops to get great flavor without the dank keg-hop character?
 
So i brewed the OP's recipe on Saturday and pitched a healthy starter of Conan. I used two 1L starters, the first I grabbed a 1 pint mason jar and pitched a second liter into the remaining 800 ML. I ended up with almost 1/2" of clean yeast at the bottom of my 2L flask.
Pitched at 70, set chamber to 66. I had active fermentation when I woke up Saturday morning. Yesterday morning I bumped the temp to 67. Temps are based on insulated probe taped to carboy.
Anyways, I get home from work this evening and notice the little Krausen there was, has fallen and the fermentation seems to be dying down. Basically 48 hour from when I pitched.
Granted, I have never used Coan(Gigayeast vermont IPA) but its seems a little unsettling that fermentation seems to be finishing up so quickly. Seriously the Krausen was like maybe 1/2" thick at its highest.
I've really only used wlp001 in the past so that's all I have to compare it to.
My OG was 1.064 and mashed around 152.


Did you take a gravity reading? That will tell you more than krausen ever will.
 
Has anybody tried to ferment a NEIPA with the Mangrove Jack's Liberty Bell Ale M36 (apparently former M79 or very similar)? The ester descriptions of kiwi, strawberry and Pear and the "silky smooth mouthfeel" sound intriguing to me.
 
Looking to brew up a slightly modified version of my favorite NE IPA thus far, 80% English Pale Malt (this time I'm using Optic - last time was Pearl, which was awesome) and 20% flaked oats. I am going with Conan, as that is my favorite I have used thus far. I am still debating a couple things:

salts: last time I used 1:1 chloride to sulfate at 150 ppm each. I thought it was a bit dry on occasion, but overall I liked it a lot. I was debating dropping to a 75ppm:150ppm sulfate to chloride ratio for this one. Good idea?

hops: last time I did citra,mosaic galaxy, 6 oz in dry hop 1 and 6 oz in dry hop 2. This time I think i want to do a 100% citra and then the 1:1 citra-mosaic that people rave about, 6 gallons of each. Has anyone thrown in a few ounces after a day or two of fermentation. Thought it might be fun to add 2 oz at like day 2 or so, 6 oz at day 5, 6 oz at day 7-12 somewhere and then maybe 1-2 oz of citra in the keg.

oh, also, most of the time that i have added dry hops to the keg, i've found them to give a very dank quality that i did not love. the exception is citra. i did a 100% citra keg-hop in a barleywine one time that was awesome. i am thinking that maybe citra is a type of hop that can be keg-hopped with no dankness. anyone else have any input on keg-hopping with citra or other hops to get great flavor without the dank keg-hop character?


I like the 20% flaked oats addition. I think you'll like that! I get my flaked grains close to 30%. Although lately I've tried using some white wheat at 10% and other flaked grains at 20%.

I have recently dropped salts to as low as 118 chloride and 34 sulfate, around 75 for calcium. I enjoy it a lot. I really don't get any dryness but still get some sharpness from the hops. Which I think is because of bitterness. My most recent batch I did used no bittering hops and all additions in the WP at 175* for one hour. Interested to see how it comes out.

I believe Scott Janish did an article that said it wouldn't be terrible to put hops in that early into fermentation or even before fermentation. Because of the yeast biotransformation. I believe it's hops high in linalool (sp?) provide that fruity character when added early into fermentation. I would love to try it but use a carboy and don't want to have to worry about fishing them out. I definitely wouldn't let them sit for the duration of fermentation and conditioning.
 
Has anybody tried to ferment a NEIPA with the Mangrove Jack's Liberty Bell Ale M36 (apparently former M79 or very similar)? The ester descriptions of kiwi, strawberry and Pear and the "silky smooth mouthfeel" sound intriguing to me.


I saw that yeast and am interested in it too but have not tried it. 1318 is so awesome, I think, that's it's hard to wanna switch.
 
Since I seem to be having issues with oxygenation, I want to deviate from the typical NEIPA until I can get my keg system set up.

What I'm thinking is going with a pale ale recipe, like a SNPA clone or Russian River Row 2 Hill 56 clone or an Oddsides Citra clone and use Conan or 1318. Bittering charge then late additions 15,10,0 and a 5 day DH of 1.5-3 oz (3 gal batch).

I've never had any oxidation issues with pale ales or any other type that I've brewed.

Thoughts?
 
Perhaps I am slow, but can you share your method for the Brew bucket gravity feed? I have tried a closed transfer from the spigot/valve into a keg out line and it just sat there and doesn't move. I now use my speidels and pressurize transfer under co2 (light co2, very slowly) to the keg out line from the speidel spigot. But I'd like to use the bucket more.

Interesting. I had a similar experience--even with the bucket lid half off and using my auto-siphon, I was able to collect 3 gallons and would not go any further after that. I tried to restart the siphon---but it would not take. Bottom of bucket was well over top of keg. PRV open and it was almost like it was "full".

Switched to C02 transfer with my Speidel after that.
 
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