New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[brewski09]

Yes you're correct that the zero minute will also add IBUs and my guess is somwhere near the same as the 5 min addition or the first whirlpool but I copied all those values/numbers straight from what brewer's friend is estimating and I do admit that I feel like they can better work some of those numbers for people who have those additions during the kettle boil still in the pot stewing/steeping in the wort throughout the cool down and whirlpool process.



Next time I think what I should do is bag each of those additions and then take them out but I throw them in loose..



So maybe next time I will bag all the boil kettle additions and as soon as I begin chilling or get down to the first whirlpool addition, I will pull them out and then steep the whirlpool without having the other hop additions linger in the wort adding additional unwanted bitterness and excessive contact with the final wort before transfer to the fermenter



And as far as space... I have bottle space/capacity for now... and we'll see how it changes in the bottle over some time and I'll hand out a few to friends to assess as well. I have some other batches that will eventually need bottling too so might just reserve 2 when it comes down to crunch time to see how it ages

I was just thinking you could have easily overshot your IBU but quite a lot because it said 0 for the flameout addition but 15 for the whirlpool addition.

I've never used a hop spider but I think that's exactly what you are talking about. BeerSmith allows for some whirlpool utilization calibration numbers and one of his old blogs talks about tweaking the addition times to account for whirlpool utilization before he added it.

The more I read your previous post though the more I think it's the tail end of the bottling bucket having hop particulate in it and you'll be fine when you pop another bottle.

 

[Braufessor]

I actually think this dry-hop-only beer I made loosely based on this recipe is getting better in the keg:

http://www.alesoftheriverwards.com/2015/08/tired-hands-hophands-clone-revisted.html

I used citra, mosaic and galaxy like Brau suggests, but my malt bill was the same and the ppm of sulfate and chloride. I used only dry hops though, no flavor/aroma kettle hops. It is really great, very hazy and super hoppy. Delicious! I don't know if I love the Denny's 1450 yeast yet. I'd love to see a comparison between it and a Conan or 1318. I feel like the two beers I've made with 1450 have a slight solventy character. Maybe it is my imagination though. Still, it is a delicious beer. Try a dry-hop-only beer sometime!

@olotti Sent me a couple beers with 1450. We were both sort of wavering on the yeast too. There was nothing "wrong" with it.... just did not seem to bring quite as much to the table as either of us maybe anticipated. I have used it in some ambers and really liked it. But, for whatever reason, it just did not seem to translate in this type of beer quite like I thought it might. No "solvent" flavors..... just a little less impact than I think either of us thought the yeast might have.

"solventy" generally makes me think fermentation temps pushing higher than they should. Not sure if that is a possibility - but that is often the culprit.

I have brewed versions of that same beer.... it is a good one. I have a simcoe/amarillo/centennial pale ale that is kind of based off of that a bit - keg is probably not going to see the end of the weekend as it is getting low.

 

[stickyfinger]

I think my fermentation was good. I have good control and no problems with other strains. It's maybe not solvent, something though. I like WLP Conan best so far in the style. Haven't used 1318 in this style yet. The mouthfeel is good on the 1450 though. People should try it for themselves. Like I said, I'd love to see a side by side.

I also think I like this less malty version of the style. Your version is a great beer. It's just my slight preference for very clean IPAs. Clean meaning less malt character. I need to do a traditional hop on this style as you say, simcoe, amarillo, cent. I also really want to do a citra/mosaic version. a lot of people don't dig the dankness of the Galaxy

 

[Braufessor]

I think my fermentation was good. I have good control and no problems with other strains. It's maybe not solvent, something though. I like WLP Conan best so far in the style. Haven't used 1318 in this style yet. The mouthfeel is good on the 1450 though. People should try it for themselves. Like I said, I'd love to see a side by side.

I also think I like this less malty version of the style. Your version is a great beer. It's just my slight preference for very clean IPAs. Clean meaning less malt character. I need to do a traditional hop on this style as you say, simcoe, amarillo, cent. I also really want to do a citra/mosaic version. a lot of people don't dig the dankness of the Galaxy

Citra/Mosaic is killer. It is right there in my top 3 combos. I have also done some where I do the 1.5:1:.5 Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy in the kettle..... and then I just go 1.5:1.5 Citra/Mosaic in both dry hops.... that works great and takes a bit off the galaxy.

I just kegged a blonde ale that I use 1056 in..... brewing up a couple versions of this with 1056 now to see what I think. Right now, Conan and 1272 are my two preferences. Curious to see how a traditionally "clean" yeast like 1056 does in this beer. I will probably do the basic recipe with it. Then I might do a single hop mosaic and either a citra/galaxy or a single hop galaxy with it.

 

[EndOfLine]

Flying dog brewery made a one off beer with charlie P. Called "airwaves" for the last home brew con. It was a marris otter based IPA with about a 6% abv range I believe. They added so many dry hops (citra, Galaxy, mosaic) that they will never brew it again.

I bring this up because they used lager yeast! It was so neutral, that one only got the the amazing malt/hop combo. It was probably the best beer I had at the con.

Long story short, most of my Recent NE ipas have been made with lager yeast, and I love it.

I cross compared the same beer with 34/70 and us05, and the lager was much better imo

 

[grassfeeder]

Can someone help me out with the water chemistry aspect of things here? Here is my current water profile:

Portland Water Mineral Content measured in ppm
Ca - 1.4, Mg - 0.5, SO4 - 0.41, Na - 2.8, Cl - 2.5, HCO3 - 7.1

I have typically always added a teaspoon of CaCl and 2 of gypsum to my mash to get to a nice 5.2-3 PH. How should I alter to get that softer feel these have?

Im a complete chemistry gidget.

 

[mintyice]

Can someone help me out with the water chemistry aspect of things here? Here is my current water profile:

Portland Water Mineral Content measured in ppm
Ca - 1.4, Mg - 0.5, SO4 - 0.41, Na - 2.8, Cl - 2.5, HCO3 - 7.1

I have typically always added a teaspoon of CaCl and 2 of gypsum to my mash to get to a nice 5.2-3 PH. How should I alter to get that softer feel these have?

Im a complete chemistry gidget.

https://youtu.be/Q0baxAHXmQU?t=535

This explains it fairly well.

 

[Braufessor]

Can someone help me out with the water chemistry aspect of things here? Here is my current water profile:

Portland Water Mineral Content measured in ppm
Ca - 1.4, Mg - 0.5, SO4 - 0.41, Na - 2.8, Cl - 2.5, HCO3 - 7.1

I have typically always added a teaspoon of CaCl and 2 of gypsum to my mash to get to a nice 5.2-3 PH. How should I alter to get that softer feel these have?

Im a complete chemistry gidget.

You are basically dealing with RO water.... there is nothing in it to start.

A level tsp of CaCl in 5 gallons of water adds "about" 150ppm of Chloride
A level tsp of Gypsum in 5 gallons of water adds "about 150ppm of Sulfate

So, you could do something like 1 tsp of CaCl and 1/2 tsp of Gypsum per 5 gallons.

Or 1 tsp of each per 5 gallons.

If you added 1ml of lactic acid per 5 gallons, that would bring you in around that 5.3 range.

****The additions should go in both mash and sparge water.

 

[brewkinger]

Made this beer again on Sunday with a couple of small glitches.
I was in a hurry and mash efficiency suffered most likely because I didn't stir well and also because I mashed at 149 instead of 152. No biggie.
Added some DME @ FO and brought my OG up to 1.053 as expected.
Pitched my yeast starter at high krausen and it was off and running about 12 hours later.
Fast forward to the 18 hour mark when I was cleaning up the flask and Mason jar from yeast and noticed the lid said WY 1272.....
Looked in the fridge and found the Mason jar of 1318 that I had intended to use.

Good news though!!!
It will still be beer AND I get to make it again this weekend with the correct yeast.

That is WIN-WIN in my world.

 

[Braufessor]

Fast forward to the 18 hour mark when I was cleaning up the flask and Mason jar from yeast and noticed the lid said WY 1272.....
Looked in the fridge and found the Mason jar of 1318 that I had intended to use.

Good news though!!!
It will still be beer AND I get to make it again this weekend with the correct yeast.

That is WIN-WIN in my world.

Plus, now you get to do a head to head comparison with the two different yeasts and see what each brings to the beer.

 

[WBCo]

Flying dog brewery made a one off beer with charlie P. Called "airwaves" for the last home brew con. It was a marris otter based IPA with about a 6% abv range I believe. They added so many dry hops (citra, Galaxy, mosaic) that they will never brew it again.

I bring this up because they used lager yeast! It was so neutral, that one only got the the amazing malt/hop combo. It was probably the best beer I had at the con.

Long story short, most of my Recent NE ipas have been made with lager yeast, and I love it.

I cross compared the same beer with 34/70 and us05, and the lager was much better imo

What was your fermentation schedule, including temps? I'd like to try this myself.

 

[Enemygod]

Many folks who don't keg, or don't have a dry hopping keg ask about adding all the hops to primary, or adding all the hops in a single dry hop..... that isn't what I do, but you have to make things fit your system and your process. Others do it with fine success. There is no reason it should not work to do that if it fits your system better

I am going to do all the dry hopping in my primary. Should I leave the first dry hops in primary the entire time or pull them out when I add the second dry hop addition?

I will be putting the dry hop additions in mesh bags.

 

[brew703]

The two batches I brewed, I left the first batch of dry hops in and tossed in the second batch. No mesh bag here.

 

[BongoYodeler]

I left the first in as well.

1st - 5 days before bottling.
2nd - 2 days before bottling.

I used mesh hop bags for the hop pellets. I added 5 boiled/sanitized marbles in each bag for weight. Not enough weight as both bags were floating when I took the cover off the fermenter on bottling day.

 

[Braufessor]

I am going to do all the dry hopping in my primary. Should I leave the first dry hops in primary the entire time or pull them out when I add the second dry hop addition?

I will be putting the dry hop additions in mesh bags.

I think you would be fine either way to be honest. I think people have done both with success.

 

[brew703]

Brewed on 9/10. On 9/16 hardly any air lock activity (I know, not an indication) and the gravity check was 1.015 which is about 4 points to FG. Went ahead and added first dry hop. 2nd dry hop addition went in this morning. There is still one bubble every 30-45 sec, maybe a minute. I figured by now it would be finished as I planned on bottling on Thursday.

Question: if I have to leave the dry hops in for 10-15 days what kind of effect will it have on the finished product? I was trying to not go beyond 8 days total on the dry hop but it looks like it my be longer than I anticipated.

 

[geepmaley]

Looking for recipe critique for a brew this weekend

11 gallons

Lbs % Fermentable

9.5 35% Maris Otter
9.5 35% American Brewer's Two-Row
1 4% Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L
1 4% Carapils
2 7% Corn Sugar (Dextrose)
0.5 2% Honey Malt
4 15% Flaked Wheat

WY1318 London III yeast

SG 1.063
FG 1.010
ABV 6.9%
IBUs 77
Expected SRM 7
Estimated efficiency 68%

Hops Amt Time AA% IBUs

Millennium 2 60 16.6 51.0
Cascade 1 20 7.2 6.7
Citra 2 10 14.1 15.7
Simcoe 1 5 13 4.0

Azzaca 2 Whirlpool
Cascade 2 Whirlpool

Citra 3 Dry hop 1 14 days
Mosaic 3 Dry hop 1 14 days
Simcoe 3 Dry hop 1 14 days

Citra 3 Dry hop 2 7 days
Mosaic 3 Dry hop 2 7 days
Simcoe 3 Dry hop 2 7 days

Citra 2 Keg hop
Mosaic 2 Keg hop
Simcoe 2 Keg hop

Comments?

 

[jjw5015]

I'd cut the millenium in half, move all other boil additions to flameout/whirlpool, and maybe not dryhop for quite as long, maybe 3-4 days less.

 

[EndOfLine]

What was your fermentation schedule, including temps? I'd like to try this myself.

Ambient was 60degrees, ambient was brought to 70f on day 5

 

[Enemygod]

I left the first in as well.

1st - 5 days before bottling.
2nd - 2 days before bottling.

I used mesh hop bags for the hop pellets. I added 5 boiled/sanitized marbles in each bag for weight. Not enough weight as both bags were floating when I took the cover off the fermenter on bottling day.

My second time dry hopping. Is it preferred to have them at the bottom vs floating?

 

[Braufessor]

Looking for recipe critique for a brew this weekend

11 gallons

Lbs % Fermentable

9.5 35% Maris Otter
9.5 35% American Brewer's Two-Row
1 4% Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L
1 4% Carapils
2 7% Corn Sugar (Dextrose)
0.5 2% Honey Malt
4 15% Flaked Wheat

WY1318 London III yeast

SG 1.063
FG 1.010
ABV 6.9%
IBUs 77
Expected SRM 7
Estimated efficiency 68%

Hops Amt Time AA% IBUs

Millennium 2 60 16.6 51.0
Cascade 1 20 7.2 6.7
Citra 2 10 14.1 15.7
Simcoe 1 5 13 4.0

Azzaca 2 Whirlpool
Cascade 2 Whirlpool

Citra 3 Dry hop 1 14 days
Mosaic 3 Dry hop 1 14 days
Simcoe 3 Dry hop 1 14 days

Citra 3 Dry hop 2 7 days
Mosaic 3 Dry hop 2 7 days
Simcoe 3 Dry hop 2 7 days

Citra 2 Keg hop
Mosaic 2 Keg hop
Simcoe 2 Keg hop

Comments?

I think the bittering is ok (this is an 11 gallon batch) and 50 IBU's is probably about right in a 1.060+ beer.

I probably would just drop all the other boil additions though and add to flame out/whirlpool. Personally, I think that seems like a lot of dry hops....it is basically twice the dry hops I use. But, hey - I don't know for sure either as I have never used 12 oz./5 gallons in dry hopping.

I guess I also wonder a little bit about cara pils + corn sugar. Seems like you are kind of trying to do opposite things there a little bit.

I don't see anything glaringly wrong though.... probably just personal preference stuff from one person to the next.

 

[MFerBrew]

I'm making this recipe for the second time on Friday. Unfortunately EVERYONE seems out of Galaxy. My LHBS said the distributors are out so all that is left is what might be sitting on retail shelves. Current harvest should be available in a few months.

So I'm swapping in Amarillo. I'm not expecting a huge falloff.

 

[brew703]

I'm making this recipe for the second time on Friday. Unfortunately EVERYONE seems out of Galaxy. My LHBS said the distributors are out so all that is left is what might be sitting on retail shelves. Current harvest should be available in a few months.

So I'm swapping in Amarillo. I'm not expecting a huge falloff.

Yakima Valley Hops has 2016 crop of Galaxy. Ordered a pound today.

 

[geepmaley]

I'd cut the millenium in half, move all other boil additions to flameout/whirlpool, and maybe not dryhop for quite as long, maybe 3-4 days less.

So that cuts my IBUs to like 40?

 

[jjw5015]

Thats sounds perfect. Whirlpool contributes bitterness

 

[Braufessor]

Yakima Valley Hops has 2016 crop of Galaxy. Ordered a pound today.

Yep - Amarillo will be great..... but if you need some more galaxy, I picked up 3 pounds here as well a couple weeks ago. Galaxy is coming out now.... so, it is best to be looking around for some at this point in the year.

 

[BongoYodeler]

My second time dry hopping. Is it preferred to have them at the bottom vs floating?

Hopefully someone else can answer this as I'm new to home brewing. This was my second beer I ever brewed (this was an IPA, my first was a brown ale) and it was my first time dry hopping. I assume you want the hops fully submerged for maximum exposure, but I defer to someone with more knowledge.

 

[WI_Wino]

Hopefully someone else can answer this as I'm new to home brewing. This was my second beer I ever brewed (this was an IPA, my first was a brown ale) and it was my first time dry hopping. I assume you want the hops fully submerged for maximum exposure, but I defer to someone with more knowledge.

Yep. Normally they'll sink in but I just did a batch with 1318 and the krausen was so thick I had to gently push the hops through with a sanitized spoon.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Yep. Normally they'll sink in but I just did a batch with 1318 and the krausen was so thick I had to gently push the hops through with a sanitized spoon.

Thanks. Funny, I used 1318 in my IPA as well. I do a 3 week primary-only fermentation and the krausen had fallen by the time I dry hopped. Even so the hop sacks still floated. For what it's worth dry hop #1 had 3oz of pellet hops and dry hop #2 has 2 oz of pellet hops. Perhaps an anchor was needed.

 

[hezagenius]

If you add some FermcapS to the fermentor, it will knock down the krausen on 1318. You don't need much, maybe a 4 drops. It might take a day or two to drop the krausen.

When I dry hop in the fermentor, I gently swirl the fermentor a few times a day to help agitate the surface and make some of the hops drop. Hops will naturally drop over time but I dry hop with a lot of hops so there gets to be a hop sludge on the surface. This gentle swirling seems to help. You want just enough swirl to get the surface moving but not so much that you create a lot of turbulence and air bubbles.