New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[AK7007]

If it is anything more than that he seemed to feel that it was way out of style

For whatever reason, some of the people who are famous in the homebrew world like Jamil or Gordon Strong, or Denny are dogmatic and fixed in their ways. I guess it makes some amount of sense, since they have spent years with people telling them that their interpretation of tons of different beer styles is the best. It makes no sense to me, since I view homebrewing as a constant opportunity for experimentation.

This is a generalization, and does not apply in all cases. But, it is a pattern that I have noticed. For this reason, I enjoy reading/listening to people like Tonsmire more than I enjoy listening/reading people like Jamil. I say, screw style - if it tastes good, that's all that matters.

NE IPAs like this taste great.

 

[Braufessor]

I say, screw style - if it tastes good, that's all that matters.

NE IPAs like this taste great.

I don't have a problem with "brewing to style"..... there is a place for that. But, there is also a place for simply brewing beer you and friends love to drink. For me, it is this beer. If I don't brew it once a week, I will run out of it. I almost never have a keg that stays on tap for even 2 weeks or so.

I disagree with them when they generalize that "all (or almost all)" of these beers are the result of sloppy brewing, rushed brewing, etc. And, that they are flawed - not just in style, but in flavor. They seem (in general) to assert that many of these are poorly brewed, and even the ones that are good, would be much better if they were "turned into" more of a clear, crisp west coast IPA.....

For sure - there are some BAD NE IPA's out there - I have had them. But, there are also a ton of terrible west coast IPA's too. I love great examples of either.

I also think (and this is why I want to test it out) that taking a NE IPA and turning it into a West Coast IPA will NOT make it better. I think it will actually detract from it. I could absolutely be wrong on that.... time will tell, and that is why I want to test it out.

 

[cegan09]

What are you thinking of doing to "transform" it? Simply try to clear it? Different yeast? Different water profile?

Based on how much you change I'd wonder where the line of "it's just a different beer" exists.

 

[Braufessor]

What are you thinking of doing to "transform" it? Simply try to clear it? Different yeast? Different water profile?

Based on how much you change I'd wonder where the line of "it's just a different beer" exists.

I want to do as little as possible to change it..... some things I am initially thinking I will start with:
(Same grain, same hops, same yeast..... same mineral additions to the same water.)

* Lower pH by adding a bit more lactic acid. Not drastic. But, I find beers in the 5.30 to drop clearer and have better break in boil kettle if pH is closer to 5.30 as opposed to 5.40-5.45
* Probably cold crash.
* Possibly use gelatin to clear it.

Might switch to a more traditional higher sulfate/lower chloride mineral content.

I guess I see those as starting points and then go from there...

 

[cegan09]

Color me intrigued. When you do perform the experiment i'll be interested in the results.

 

[whovous]

I want to do as little as possible to change it.....

[snip]

Might switch to a more traditional higher sulfate/lower chloride mineral content.

I guess I see those as starting points and then go from there...

ya gotta do the last one. Isn't the sulfate/chloride flip one of the main characteristics of the NE-IPA? Flipping it really should result in a different beer, shouldn't it?

Or am I being dogmatic?

 

[Braufessor]

ya gotta do the last one. Isn't the sulfate/chloride flip one of the main characteristics of the NE-IPA? Flipping it really should result in a different beer, shouldn't it?

Or am I being dogmatic?

yeah - it is part of what a west coast IPA is for sure. But, before I want to do that I want to address the hazy/clear aspect. That seems to be the sticker for a lot of people right off the bat - the beer "looks" like crap they say. Looks sloppy, unfinished... they never even get to the taste aspect.

I am curious if you can make a crystal clear version of this ( which may look appealing to some) without actually screwing up the flavor of it.... which is what actually matters. I think some of the critics are asserting that clearing the beer will actually not only make it look better..... they are saying it will make it taste better. I am curious about that. I am not so sure.

 

[Adaman05]

yeah - it is part of what a west coast IPA is for sure. But, before I want to do that I want to address the hazy/clear aspect. That seems to be the sticker for a lot of people right off the bat - the beer "looks" like crap they say. Looks sloppy, unfinished... they never even get to the taste aspect.



I am curious if you can make a crystal clear version of this ( which may look appealing to some) without actually screwing up the flavor of it.... which is what actually matters. I think some of the critics are asserting that clearing the beer will actually not only make it look better..... they are saying it will make it taste better. I am curious about that. I am not so sure.

Blasphemy!

 

[Projectfdw]

Was hoping for some recipe critiques. Looking to do a northeast style IPA.

10# 2 row
1# flaked wheat
1# flaked oats
.75# carapils

Wyeast 1318 London 3

2 oz Amarillo @60
2 oz citra & 2 oz Amarillo whirlpool @ flameout when it cools to 170
3oz citra dry hop on day 5
3 oz simcoe dry hop in keg at day 14

Mash at 152
Og 1.063
Fg 1.017
Ibu 54
6%
2 SRM- this is low but with cloudiness I'm not sure it matters.

Going to use distilled water and add 4g gypsum, 11g calcium chloride and 6g Epsom salt.

Any advice or adjustments would be appreciated.

 

[Braufessor]

The only thing that really catches my eye is bitter addition of 2 ounces of amarillo..... I would probably use something like warrior in 3/4 - 1 ounce amount.

Not sure what those salt additions give you for sulfate and chloride #'s..... I prefer a 2:1 chloride over sulfate ratio. And, a pH of 5.4-5.45.

In general I think it looks good though.

 

[Projectfdw]

Thanks. pH at room temp is coming in at 5.49. As far as the salts , I used the ez water calculator and to keep the pH in the middle as well as numbers at the bottom for acceptable ranges.

When I pump in 1oz of warrior into brew road, puts my ibus at 27. I know it's not a bitter beer, but well below style guidelines. Any thoughts on that?

 

[whovous]

When I pump in 1oz of warrior into brew road, puts my ibus at 27. I know it's not a bitter beer, but well below style guidelines. Any thoughts on that?

Move some of your whirlpool/flameout additions to five minutes in the boil.

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks. pH at room temp is coming in at 5.49. As far as the salts , I used the ez water calculator and to keep the pH in the middle as well as numbers at the bottom for acceptable ranges.

When I pump in 1oz of warrior into brew road, puts my ibus at 27. I know it's not a bitter beer, but well below style guidelines. Any thoughts on that?

Plus, you will get more perceived and actual bitterness from those late additions that it is calculating more than likely. Mine is like 30-35IBUs (calculated)....... but, it comes off as 50+ easily.

Either way..... use whatever you do as a starting point and adjust from there according to your personal tastes.

 

[brew703]

Plus, you will get more perceived and actual bitterness from those late additions that it is calculating more than likely. Mine is like 30-35IBUs (calculated)....... but, it comes off as 50+ easily.

Either way..... use whatever you do as a starting point and adjust from there according to your personal tastes.

Braufessor, I'm going to brew this in the coming weeks but will do a 45 min bittering with Magnum as that's what I have then will follow your hop schedule.
Would you say this beer taste like a 35 IBU beer or more like a 50+ IBU beer?
I ask because not really into the hop bombs and drank a DIPA last week from a local brewery that shows the IBU's as 100+. It certainly didn't drink that way and that's what I am looking for in this beer.
I calculated 1% utilization in the WP at 160 for 30 min so I would not think there would be much IBU contribution for the WP additions.

I also brewed a Zombie Dust clone where I cut the IBU's, did a WP at 175 and it was really bitter. I'm trying to avoid that with this one.

 

[Braufessor]

Braufessor, I'm going to brew this in the coming weeks but will do a 45 min bittering with Magnum as that's what I have then will follow your hop schedule.
Would you say this beer taste like a 35 IBU beer or more like a 50+ IBU beer?
I ask because not really into the hop bombs and drank a DIPA last week from a local brewery that shows the IBU's as 100+. It certainly didn't drink that way and that's what I am looking for in this beer.
I calculated 1% utilization in the WP at 160 for 30 min so I would not think there would be much IBU contribution for the WP additions.

I also brewed a Zombie Dust clone where I cut the IBU's, did a WP at 175 and it was really bitter. I'm trying to avoid that with this one.

In my experience, this beer is very hoppy......flavor and aroma. However, it is not "bitter." It is not as bitter as say a sierra nevada pale ale..... but, it comes across as a much "hoppier" beer than sierra nevada does - if this makes sense.

 

[brew703]

In my experience, this beer is very hoppy......flavor and aroma. However, it is not "bitter." It is not as bitter as say a sierra nevada pale ale..... but, it comes across as a much "hoppier" beer than sierra nevada does - if this makes sense.

SNPA is one of my favorite beers so if this beer is not as hoppy as SNPA then all will be good.

 

[LJvermonster]

Brewing one of these with Citra/Galaxy/Amarillo this weekend. I only have MO and Crystal 10 on hand so I may lose a little mouthfeel without the flaked oats/wheat.

Brau,
Have you ever made this with a single dry hop addition vs the double dry hop?

 

[Braufessor]

Brau,
Have you ever made this with a single dry hop addition vs the double dry hop?

No - but it always taste really good out of the fermenter when I transfer to the dry hop keg...... So, you should get a good beer out of it anyway.

 

[LJvermonster]

No - but it always taste really good out of the fermenter when I transfer to the dry hop keg...... So, you should get a good beer out of it anyway.

Figure I'll try this way first and if it is to taste, keep going with it. The last beer I did with 3 oz of dryhops for 4 days was awesome so i imagine this will be similar.

Cheers,

 

[ruascott]

Braufessor, I'm going to brew this in the coming weeks but will do a 45 min bittering with Magnum as that's what I have then will follow your hop schedule.
Would you say this beer taste like a 35 IBU beer or more like a 50+ IBU beer?
I ask because not really into the hop bombs and drank a DIPA last week from a local brewery that shows the IBU's as 100+. It certainly didn't drink that way and that's what I am looking for in this beer.
I calculated 1% utilization in the WP at 160 for 30 min so I would not think there would be much IBU contribution for the WP additions.

I also brewed a Zombie Dust clone where I cut the IBU's, did a WP at 175 and it was really bitter. I'm trying to avoid that with this one.

Hoppy and bitter are two different things. You can have a massive hop flavor/aroma and not be bitter at all. Or you can make a very bitter beer, that doesn't have much hoppy characteristics.

This beer is more time towards the first.

 

[m00ps]

@Projectfdw

I'd tread lightly. If you waste 2oz amarillo (which is currently in shortage and record high pricces) as bittering, the hop karma boogeyman will come for you. Your next IPA will be oxidized or infected, or both, for sure

 

[TriColor 1824]

About 2 weeks ago, I transferred 10 gallons of an IPA I made into two corny kegs for dry hopping w/ whole leaf hops. Both kegs have the stainless steel screens on their dip tubes. Is there any reason to transfer the beer to new kegs w/o hops? I would think that w/ the screens over the dip tubes I should be able to carbonate these kegs directly and start drinking from them as soon as the carbonation is adequate. Any thoughts or reasons why I should transfer the beer to new hop free kegs?

 

[Adaman05]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1461277830.773301.jpg

My 6.3% version. Tastes awesome! Digging the chloride ratio, though I would do this again with significantly more oats (15-18%) and try that with high chloride.

 

[Projectfdw]

With Amarillo prices high, what would your choice substitute be?

 

[surgical_ass]

View attachment 351294

My 6.3% version. Tastes awesome! Digging the chloride ratio, though I would do this again with significantly more oats (15-18%) and try that with high chloride.

did u use the original recipe water profile?

 

[rsalan]

Just had another drink. I'd say this peaks at 2.5-3 weeks after kegging/bottling!

 

[whovous]

Just had another drink. I'd say this peaks at 2.5-3 weeks after kegging/bottling!

That is a little disturbing to us bottlers. It takes three weeks to fully carb, at which point our brew is already on the decline?

 

[olotti]

That is a little disturbing to us bottlers. It takes three weeks to fully carb, at which point our brew is already on the decline?

Maybe not 3 weeks to carb atleast at this abv it shouldn't take 3 weeks to carb but by that time the CO2 gets redistributed and the beer settles a little more, before that and I've experienced this because I have zero patience, it almost seems over carbed and the hop presence is muted and ya drink most of them because well its beer and it tastes good and then by 3-4 weeks it really tastes good and you have like 6 left and you feel shame. But then you have to drink fast because after 4 weeks things start to drop off atleast they do for me in my bottled ipas anyway.

 

[WBCo]

That is a little disturbing to us bottlers. It takes three weeks to fully carb, at which point our brew is already on the decline?

I brew this style (and every other "style" of IPA) quite often and my beers are carbed by day 10. They still taste a little green until about day 16. I don't cold crash at all and I allow the beers to bottle condition for the first few weeks at rather warm ambient temps.

 

[sheikyerbouti]

Any thoughts or reasons why I should transfer the beer to new hop free kegs?

I leave it on the hops for weeks and it still tastes great. In my opinion, the 'weird' flavors don't show up for about 2 months... again, just my opinion.