New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Projectfdw]

Thanks. pH at room temp is coming in at 5.49. As far as the salts , I used the ez water calculator and to keep the pH in the middle as well as numbers at the bottom for acceptable ranges.

When I pump in 1oz of warrior into brew road, puts my ibus at 27. I know it's not a bitter beer, but well below style guidelines. Any thoughts on that?

 

[whovous]

When I pump in 1oz of warrior into brew road, puts my ibus at 27. I know it's not a bitter beer, but well below style guidelines. Any thoughts on that?

Move some of your whirlpool/flameout additions to five minutes in the boil.

 

[Braufessor]

Thanks. pH at room temp is coming in at 5.49. As far as the salts , I used the ez water calculator and to keep the pH in the middle as well as numbers at the bottom for acceptable ranges.

When I pump in 1oz of warrior into brew road, puts my ibus at 27. I know it's not a bitter beer, but well below style guidelines. Any thoughts on that?

Plus, you will get more perceived and actual bitterness from those late additions that it is calculating more than likely. Mine is like 30-35IBUs (calculated)....... but, it comes off as 50+ easily.

Either way..... use whatever you do as a starting point and adjust from there according to your personal tastes.

 

[brew703]

Plus, you will get more perceived and actual bitterness from those late additions that it is calculating more than likely. Mine is like 30-35IBUs (calculated)....... but, it comes off as 50+ easily.

Either way..... use whatever you do as a starting point and adjust from there according to your personal tastes.

Braufessor, I'm going to brew this in the coming weeks but will do a 45 min bittering with Magnum as that's what I have then will follow your hop schedule.
Would you say this beer taste like a 35 IBU beer or more like a 50+ IBU beer?
I ask because not really into the hop bombs and drank a DIPA last week from a local brewery that shows the IBU's as 100+. It certainly didn't drink that way and that's what I am looking for in this beer.
I calculated 1% utilization in the WP at 160 for 30 min so I would not think there would be much IBU contribution for the WP additions.

I also brewed a Zombie Dust clone where I cut the IBU's, did a WP at 175 and it was really bitter. I'm trying to avoid that with this one.

 

[Braufessor]

Braufessor, I'm going to brew this in the coming weeks but will do a 45 min bittering with Magnum as that's what I have then will follow your hop schedule.
Would you say this beer taste like a 35 IBU beer or more like a 50+ IBU beer?
I ask because not really into the hop bombs and drank a DIPA last week from a local brewery that shows the IBU's as 100+. It certainly didn't drink that way and that's what I am looking for in this beer.
I calculated 1% utilization in the WP at 160 for 30 min so I would not think there would be much IBU contribution for the WP additions.

I also brewed a Zombie Dust clone where I cut the IBU's, did a WP at 175 and it was really bitter. I'm trying to avoid that with this one.

In my experience, this beer is very hoppy......flavor and aroma. However, it is not "bitter." It is not as bitter as say a sierra nevada pale ale..... but, it comes across as a much "hoppier" beer than sierra nevada does - if this makes sense.

 

[brew703]

In my experience, this beer is very hoppy......flavor and aroma. However, it is not "bitter." It is not as bitter as say a sierra nevada pale ale..... but, it comes across as a much "hoppier" beer than sierra nevada does - if this makes sense.

SNPA is one of my favorite beers so if this beer is not as hoppy as SNPA then all will be good.

 

[LJvermonster]

Brewing one of these with Citra/Galaxy/Amarillo this weekend. I only have MO and Crystal 10 on hand so I may lose a little mouthfeel without the flaked oats/wheat.

Brau,
Have you ever made this with a single dry hop addition vs the double dry hop?

 

[Braufessor]

Brau,
Have you ever made this with a single dry hop addition vs the double dry hop?

No - but it always taste really good out of the fermenter when I transfer to the dry hop keg...... So, you should get a good beer out of it anyway.

 

[LJvermonster]

No - but it always taste really good out of the fermenter when I transfer to the dry hop keg...... So, you should get a good beer out of it anyway.

Figure I'll try this way first and if it is to taste, keep going with it. The last beer I did with 3 oz of dryhops for 4 days was awesome so i imagine this will be similar.

Cheers,

 

[ruascott]

Braufessor, I'm going to brew this in the coming weeks but will do a 45 min bittering with Magnum as that's what I have then will follow your hop schedule.
Would you say this beer taste like a 35 IBU beer or more like a 50+ IBU beer?
I ask because not really into the hop bombs and drank a DIPA last week from a local brewery that shows the IBU's as 100+. It certainly didn't drink that way and that's what I am looking for in this beer.
I calculated 1% utilization in the WP at 160 for 30 min so I would not think there would be much IBU contribution for the WP additions.

I also brewed a Zombie Dust clone where I cut the IBU's, did a WP at 175 and it was really bitter. I'm trying to avoid that with this one.

Hoppy and bitter are two different things. You can have a massive hop flavor/aroma and not be bitter at all. Or you can make a very bitter beer, that doesn't have much hoppy characteristics.

This beer is more time towards the first.

 

[m00ps]

@Projectfdw

I'd tread lightly. If you waste 2oz amarillo (which is currently in shortage and record high pricces) as bittering, the hop karma boogeyman will come for you. Your next IPA will be oxidized or infected, or both, for sure

 

[TriColor 1824]

About 2 weeks ago, I transferred 10 gallons of an IPA I made into two corny kegs for dry hopping w/ whole leaf hops. Both kegs have the stainless steel screens on their dip tubes. Is there any reason to transfer the beer to new kegs w/o hops? I would think that w/ the screens over the dip tubes I should be able to carbonate these kegs directly and start drinking from them as soon as the carbonation is adequate. Any thoughts or reasons why I should transfer the beer to new hop free kegs?

 

[Adaman05]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1461277830.773301.jpg

My 6.3% version. Tastes awesome! Digging the chloride ratio, though I would do this again with significantly more oats (15-18%) and try that with high chloride.

 

[Projectfdw]

With Amarillo prices high, what would your choice substitute be?

 

[surgical_ass]

View attachment 351294

My 6.3% version. Tastes awesome! Digging the chloride ratio, though I would do this again with significantly more oats (15-18%) and try that with high chloride.

did u use the original recipe water profile?

 

[rsalan]

Just had another drink. I'd say this peaks at 2.5-3 weeks after kegging/bottling!

 

[whovous]

Just had another drink. I'd say this peaks at 2.5-3 weeks after kegging/bottling!

That is a little disturbing to us bottlers. It takes three weeks to fully carb, at which point our brew is already on the decline?

 

[olotti]

That is a little disturbing to us bottlers. It takes three weeks to fully carb, at which point our brew is already on the decline?

Maybe not 3 weeks to carb atleast at this abv it shouldn't take 3 weeks to carb but by that time the CO2 gets redistributed and the beer settles a little more, before that and I've experienced this because I have zero patience, it almost seems over carbed and the hop presence is muted and ya drink most of them because well its beer and it tastes good and then by 3-4 weeks it really tastes good and you have like 6 left and you feel shame. But then you have to drink fast because after 4 weeks things start to drop off atleast they do for me in my bottled ipas anyway.

 

[WBCo]

That is a little disturbing to us bottlers. It takes three weeks to fully carb, at which point our brew is already on the decline?

I brew this style (and every other "style" of IPA) quite often and my beers are carbed by day 10. They still taste a little green until about day 16. I don't cold crash at all and I allow the beers to bottle condition for the first few weeks at rather warm ambient temps.

 

[sheikyerbouti]

Any thoughts or reasons why I should transfer the beer to new hop free kegs?

I leave it on the hops for weeks and it still tastes great. In my opinion, the 'weird' flavors don't show up for about 2 months... again, just my opinion.

 

[moreb33rplz]

I agree my IPA's will have a 'peak' week or two, but they still taste great months later too. Generally the hop flavor/aroma gets more rounded.

Avoiding oxygen and drinking fresh beer is great and all, but I wouldn't freak out about it either. It's beer!

 

[Adaman05]

did u use the original recipe water profile?

I used my Madison, WI tap water and used lactic, calcium chloride, gypsum (and campden) to hit the water targets from the uniBraufessor.

 

[TxBigHops]

That is a little disturbing to us bottlers. It takes three weeks to fully carb, at which point our brew is already on the decline?

Are you sure it "takes" that long, or is that just your routine to wait that long? My version of this was primed to 2.6 volumes. I cracked the first one after 6 days conditioning and 24 hours in the fridge. I have a pic in post 458 of it after 11 days. I've only had one beer that didn't fully carb in less than 14 days and that was an RIS that had been bulk aged, and was only carbed to 2.0 volumes. Not saying this beer was at it's prime after just 7 days, but it was definitely carbed.

 

[Projectfdw]

I'm trying to find RO or distilled water and the primo stations at the local stores all say purified with minerals. I assume that isn't going to work Bc it's not actually Ro since the added. Can anyone confirm who may have used Ro water.

 

[hcb_ryk]

The walmart primo pre-filled 5 gallons are consistently around 20 ppm dissolved solids. Do you have a TDS meter you can check with?

 

[Projectfdw]

No. I just got gallons of distilled. Didn't feel like going on a goose chase.

 

[whovous]

Are you sure it "takes" that long, or is that just your routine to wait that long? My version of this was primed to 2.6 volumes. I cracked the first one after 6 days conditioning and 24 hours in the fridge. I have a pic in post 458 of it after 11 days. I've only had one beer that didn't fully carb in less than 14 days and that was an RIS that had been bulk aged, and was only carbed to 2.0 volumes. Not saying this beer was at it's prime after just 7 days, but it was definitely carbed.

No, not sure, but there seemed to be a lot of consensus on the pages I read. I have two batches that are two weeks old today, and will put a few in the fridge later this afternoon.

 

[olotti]

So this is a trillium beer thoughts on whether this is yeast or hop debris but there's a lot of gunkView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1461544861.750877.jpg in this thing. Tastes awesome though, melcher st with mosaic and ctz.

 

[Braufessor]

So this is a trillium beer thoughts on whether this is yeast or hop debris but there's a lot of gunkView attachment 351749 in this thing. Tastes awesome though, melcher st with mosaic and ctz.

I had a few bottles of Trillium - One was just full of yeast. 1 bottle (Mettle) was spectacular. One was solid (congress street). The one that was full of yeast was terrible (scaled) - actually a drain pour. But, it was a lot more yeast than what is in your glass - there was actually yeast slurry coming out of my bottle.

 

[olotti]

I had a few bottles of Trillium - One was just full of yeast. 1 bottle (Mettle) was spectacular. One was solid (congress street). The one that was full of yeast was terrible (scaled) - actually a drain pour. But, it was a lot more yeast than what is in your glass - there was actually yeast slurry coming out of my bottle.

So I just had a scaled yesterday and it was super tart, there was a ring of yeast around the lip of the bottle when I opened it, I'm guessing it was the yeast throwing that tartness. This is much better.

 

[Braufessor]

So I just had a scaled yesterday and it was super tart, there was a ring of yeast around the lip of the bottle when I opened it, I'm guessing it was the yeast throwing that tartness. This is much better.

Yep - sounds just like mine. "Tartness" too. Definitely something "off" in it for sure. The excessive yeast was not helping any either. I think it was that particular batch..... Like I said - the bottle of "Mettle" I had was great.

 

[hezagenius]

Supposedly Trillium is having some issues with yeast right now. Lots of complaints of excess yeast in their bottles. The Scaled Up batch was supposed to be pretty rough. Same with Artaic. Not sure what other beers have been affected. I've had some recently (Congress, Mosaic DH Fort Pointe, Galaxy DH Fort Pointe and Enigma DH Fort Pointe) and all were really good.

 

[olotti]

I have scaled way up in the fridge, I pray it's not like scaled up. I had a ddh fort point that was good but it def didn't have that tart/ sourness that the scaled did. But I guess this leads me to the thought of is it the yeast or a less flocking yeast like 1318 giving the haze? I'm thinking it s a combo of both yeast and just huge dry hopping. I had a mettle dipa a couple weeks back and I swear it looked greenish when I poured it into the glass, like when you dry hop and have a huge amount of hop particulate in suspension. But after this beer and making a couple beers with 1318 I think that's what they're using, I get that estery tartness with my beers with 1318 just not on the level of the overpowering tartness in the scaled IPA I had.

 

[kyleetrotter]

Brewed this bad boy tonight. What do you all think?

Started off w 8 gallons of water, treated w 7g calcium sulfate and 2tsp calcium chloride

12lb 2 row
3lb flaked oats
8oz carapils
8oz caramel 60
4oz honey malt

Steeped for:
60 mins @ 154 - recirculated final 10 mins w sparge arm
10 mins @ 170

60 min boil
1oz Columbus added as first wort hop
1oz Mosaic 30 min
1oz Citra 15 mins
1oz Mosaic 15 mins
.5oz Falconers Flight 15 mins
1oz Citra 0 mins
1oz Mosaic 0 mins

Let rest for 10 mins

Steep for 30 mins after cooling to 170:
1oz Citra
1oz Mosaic
1oz Galaxy

Pitched 1318 London Ale III @ 68

Planning on dry hopping at day 10 with:
2oz Mosaic
2oz Citra
2oz Galaxy

I hit my estimated OG of 1.072 on the head. Should finish at 1.019 making it 7%. It looked like pond scum coming out of the kettle into the fermenter I was giddy about that haha!

I thought about splitting the dry hops into 2 additions - 1 at day 3 of primary fermentation and the other half at day 10 but I'm not sure of the efficiency of that. I'm afraid I would lose too much aroma to the airlock pushing everything out until it finished working.

 

[surgical_ass]

Brewed this bad boy tonight. What do you all think?

Started off w 8 gallons of water, treated w 7g calcium sulfate and 2tsp calcium chloride

12lb 2 row
3lb flaked oats
8oz carapils
8oz caramel 60
4oz honey malt

Steeped for:
60 mins @ 154 - recirculated final 10 mins w sparge arm
10 mins @ 170

60 min boil
1oz Columbus added as first wort hop
1oz Mosaic 30 min
1oz Citra 15 mins
1oz Mosaic 15 mins
.5oz Falconers Flight 15 mins
1oz Citra 0 mins
1oz Mosaic 0 mins

Let rest for 10 mins

Steep for 30 mins after cooling to 170:
1oz Citra
1oz Mosaic
1oz Galaxy

Pitched 1318 London Ale III @ 68

Planning on dry hopping at day 10 with:
2oz Mosaic
2oz Citra
2oz Galaxy

I hit my estimated OG of 1.072 on the head. Should finish at 1.019 making it 7%. It looked like pond scum coming out of the kettle into the fermenter I was giddy about that haha!

I thought about splitting the dry hops into 2 additions - 1 at day 3 of primary fermentation and the other half at day 10 but I'm not sure of the efficiency of that. I'm afraid I would lose too much aroma to the airlock pushing everything out until it finished working.

last batch I did I split the dryhops into two additions. One at 3 days and the other in the co2 purged keg in a nylon hop bag as I racked from secondary. Left them in there for about a week or so then did a closed circuit keg to keg transfer. Killer!

 

[Braufessor]

Brewed this bad boy tonight. What do you all think?

Started off w 8 gallons of water, treated w 7g calcium sulfate and 2tsp calcium chloride

12lb 2 row
3lb flaked oats
8oz carapils
8oz caramel 60
4oz honey malt

Steeped for:
60 mins @ 154 - recirculated final 10 mins w sparge arm
10 mins @ 170

60 min boil
1oz Columbus added as first wort hop
1oz Mosaic 30 min
1oz Citra 15 mins
1oz Mosaic 15 mins
.5oz Falconers Flight 15 mins
1oz Citra 0 mins
1oz Mosaic 0 mins

Let rest for 10 mins

Steep for 30 mins after cooling to 170:
1oz Citra
1oz Mosaic
1oz Galaxy

Pitched 1318 London Ale III @ 68

Planning on dry hopping at day 10 with:
2oz Mosaic
2oz Citra
2oz Galaxy

I hit my estimated OG of 1.072 on the head. Should finish at 1.019 making it 7%. It looked like pond scum coming out of the kettle into the fermenter I was giddy about that haha!

I thought about splitting the dry hops into 2 additions - 1 at day 3 of primary fermentation and the other half at day 10 but I'm not sure of the efficiency of that. I'm afraid I would lose too much aroma to the airlock pushing everything out until it finished working.

I don't see anything "wrong" with any of this. Biggest "difference" would be that yours is heavy toward sulfate compared to chloride. I like the two hop additions, but not like one big addition is going to "ruin" the beer or anything. What you have outlined should be a good beer. Brew it the way you have it and then try it again reversing the chloride and sulfate...... see which you like better. Then, brew it again with two dry hops instead of one.... see if you have a preference.... That is ultimately the key to finding out what is best for your personal taste. You have a good starting point with this recipe.

 

[ruascott]

Brewed this bad boy tonight. What do you all think?

Started off w 8 gallons of water, treated w 7g calcium sulfate and 2tsp calcium chloride

12lb 2 row
3lb flaked oats
8oz carapils
8oz caramel 60
4oz honey malt

Steeped for:
60 mins @ 154 - recirculated final 10 mins w sparge arm
10 mins @ 170

60 min boil
1oz Columbus added as first wort hop
1oz Mosaic 30 min
1oz Citra 15 mins
1oz Mosaic 15 mins
.5oz Falconers Flight 15 mins
1oz Citra 0 mins
1oz Mosaic 0 mins

Let rest for 10 mins

Steep for 30 mins after cooling to 170:
1oz Citra
1oz Mosaic
1oz Galaxy

Pitched 1318 London Ale III @ 68

Planning on dry hopping at day 10 with:
2oz Mosaic
2oz Citra
2oz Galaxy

I hit my estimated OG of 1.072 on the head. Should finish at 1.019 making it 7%. It looked like pond scum coming out of the kettle into the fermenter I was giddy about that haha!

I thought about splitting the dry hops into 2 additions - 1 at day 3 of primary fermentation and the other half at day 10 but I'm not sure of the efficiency of that. I'm afraid I would lose too much aroma to the airlock pushing everything out until it finished working.

Seems to me this would be a lot more bitter than the real front page recipe.

 

[ruascott]

Geesh....I actually really screwed this one up. Not only did my efficiency fall, probably due a lot to forgetting the oats/barley....I totally under hopped this.

For some reason I thought it was 1.5oz total per addition, rather than 3 oz. So I was under hopped by half at my FO and whirlpool additions.

Sigh.....I'm sure the beer will still be good, but let this serve as a warning about trying to watch The Masters, drinking HB, and brewing all at the same time.

Did my first tasting of this yesterday....

This was with WY1968, it finished at 1.010. Definitely a lot of residual sweetness, maybe just a bit much for my taste, but it's really good. Not fully carbed yet. Should get better.

I think the under hopping by half for the FO and whirlpool left out just enough bitterness that was likely needed.

My wife and MIL will love it. It's really close to what I'm looking for. I'll rebrew soon and do it correctly!

 

[bbohanon]

I will chime in on the PH deal as I have noticed a lower PH (5.3) gives the beer a crisper taste..I also have moved to purely using HopShots for FWH and doing a shi*-ton of whirlpool hopping and its served me well for this type of IPA when I make this style of beer.
I also do beef up the adjuncts (flaked oats) to help with the mouth feel and keep the mash temp at 155.

I also tend to prefer the Calc Chloride higher than the sulfate levels for water profile and one other trick I picked up was to put the sparge addition of the Calc Chloride right into the BK when sparging out instead of in the sparge water.

 

[stickyfinger]

Yes - the idea of some of the yeast/hop interactions is something I think is interesting. I cannot say for sure if it is a "real thing" or not..... but, I did it, I liked the results, I continue to do it.

Further - lots of brewers/Breweries talk about multiple dry hop additions..... Call it follow the leader - but, again, I tried it, liked it, kept doing it.

The other aspect of this is simply practical - dumping 6 ounces of hops in the primary makes for a messy transfer and serving keg full of hop particulate. Similarly, dumping all 6 ounces into the dry hop keg invites a much greater chance of plugging up jumping it to serving keg. This last reason is probably one of the main reasons I keep doing this - it fits with my system and my process.

Have you ever tried doing only a dry hop in the primary with none in the dry hopping keg? The reason I ask is that I have a few batches worth of anecdotal observation that seem to indicate to me that beers that I have racked to carboy to dry hop have would up having a much longer-lasting potent hop character. I am wondering if maybe by adding all of the dry hops into the primary, I am getting more losses of hop character as the yeast drop out and strip hop compounds from the beer?