OP
OP
Besides the various versions of NE IPA/Vermont/Conan yeast - I would consider 1318, Denny's Favorite 50, maybe 1968/002, I know some breweries use SO 4 on these types of beers.
New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA
- Thread starter Braufessor
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Madmannvan
Well-Known Member
I'm planning on brewing this over the weekend. I have some 1318 at home, but can get gigayeast Vermont when I pick up the grains. In the op I saw Conan was the yeast of choice, is the gigayeast Vermont the same as Conan? Should I pick some up? Thanks
Yep, Gigayeast Vermont IPA is Conan. That's the strain I use.
LJvermonster
Well-Known Member
Brauf,
Have you ever used US05 on this? Until I start harvesting yeast I tend to use 05 to save some money. I know US04 is close to the same cost so I might start using that if it works better for this beer.
Madmannvan
Well-Known Member
Thanks for clarifying that. Cheers to beers
I just did this beer with 05 since it was a spur of the moment thing and I didn't have time to make a starter. It's good, different as 05 is super clean, but still a good beer you just don't get any fruitiness from the yeast but I've used Conan and have never really got that peach thing but it just hangs around in suspension more than 05 so you do get some yeast flavor. Basically use 05 if that's what you have and it'll make a great beer, it's a solid recipe and that's the most important thing.
Hey Brauf,
Im trying this one again but making a bit of an adjustment:
6 lb Golden Promise (40%)
6 lb 2-row (40%)
1 lb White Wheat (6.7%)
.5 lb flaked wheat (3.3%)
.5 lb flaked barley (3.3%)
.5 lb flkaked oats (3.3%)
.5 lb corn sugar (late addition @ 15 min) (3.3%)
Yeast OMEGA DIPA
@ 60 CTZ 1
@ 10 1 Citra/.5 Centennial/.5 Amarillo/.5 Chinook
@ FO 2 Citra/1.5 Centennial/1.5 Amarillo/.5 Chinook
@ DH 2 Citra/2 Centennial/1 Chinook
Have you ever made this with a chinook addition? Im going to try to make a DIPA, around 8% or so with a big hop punch.
Ive never used chinook but I figure why not! Not sure if I should add more either since I've never used it.
Im trying this one again but making a bit of an adjustment:
6 lb Golden Promise (40%)
6 lb 2-row (40%)
1 lb White Wheat (6.7%)
.5 lb flaked wheat (3.3%)
.5 lb flaked barley (3.3%)
.5 lb flkaked oats (3.3%)
.5 lb corn sugar (late addition @ 15 min) (3.3%)
Yeast OMEGA DIPA
@ 60 CTZ 1
@ 10 1 Citra/.5 Centennial/.5 Amarillo/.5 Chinook
@ FO 2 Citra/1.5 Centennial/1.5 Amarillo/.5 Chinook
@ DH 2 Citra/2 Centennial/1 Chinook
Have you ever made this with a chinook addition? Im going to try to make a DIPA, around 8% or so with a big hop punch.
Ive never used chinook but I figure why not! Not sure if I should add more either since I've never used it.
OP
OP
I think the grain bill looks great. I would be very curious to see how you like this and how it turns out for you. I have not had the greatest luck (to my tastes) with the traditional west coast IPA hops (Cascade, Centennial, etc.....) I have not used Chinook. Personally, I have had trouble with them coming off a bit drier/harsher than I like. I have been brewing some batches of Simcoe/Amarillo/Centennial that have been solid - but not quite where I want. I am getting ready to keg my latest batch where I used all 3 hops in equal amounts in kettle and whirlpool...... but this time I left the centennial out of the dry hop. Sometimes, I think some of the harshness is coming from there.
That said - I am talking about my personal tastes. Others have really liked the drier aspect of it a lot.
I say go for it and see what you think. I think you would get a really good beer - especially if you like the more piney/crisp/citrus type IPA.
I would be very interested to hear what you think of the combination you have listed - I see nothing wrong with it at all. However, it is "different" than the hops like galaxy, mosaic, columbus, etc. that get used in beers like this a lot.
Madmannvan
Well-Known Member
My water has a ph of 7.1 how will that work if I just use 2:1 cacl to gypsum?
OP
OP
pH of water is irrelevant. Mineral content and alkalinity of water is what is important. I generally recommend that either:
a.) get a Wards Lab report so you know exactly what is in your water and adjust accordingly.
or
b.) start with RO water (so you know where you are starting from) and go from there.
If you add minerals without knowing what is in your water to begin with - you are ultimately always just guessing.
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
How is pH irrelevant but alkalinity is important.
OP
OP
The pH of water is irrelevant..... the buffering capacity of the water based on mineral content is important.
Agreed because it's all about getting the pH of the mash down (or up) to the correct range
OP
OP
Yep - this^^^
Mash pH is important. Water pH is not important.
Where your mash pH falls in line is a product of the minerals and buffering capacity of your water. However, mash pH is not a product of the pH of your water.
jjbrewhouse
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View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1462675039.718019.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1462675052.669176.jpg
Just won the IPA contest with this beer, used Columbus for bittering and the original citra, Galaxy, mosaic combo
Just won the IPA contest with this beer, used Columbus for bittering and the original citra, Galaxy, mosaic combo
jjbrewhouse
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Judged by Brewers from local breweries
Yeah, wow, if that person is a BJCP Judge, he/she needs to work on it a bit and put in some more effort. I'd be a little pissed if I got that scoresheet back.
Except for the score, that is! Nice job!
Dan
LJvermonster
Well-Known Member
So I have to brew this tomorrow, is there anything from the grocery store that can be added in substitute for the honey malt? Could I just add honey?
Thanks,
Thanks,
emr25
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SG is down to 1.016 about 90 hours after pitching (1.055 OG). Added the first 3 oz dry hop (1.5 oz Citra, 1.0 oz Mosaic, 0.5 oz Galaxy). Planning to hold at 68* for another day or two and then ramp to 70* until Day 12 when we transfer to the dry hop keg and add the second 3 oz dry hop.
Color looks good, I think it should be less murky after jumping to the serving keg and cooling to serving temperature.
Pulled another gravity sample today (Day 9). FG is 1.012 for an ABV of 5.6%.
Added sanitized foil and a rubber band and dropped the controller to 60*. Hoping to compact the trub some more before transferring, may drop to 50* tomorrow. Planning to transfer to dry hop keg on Day 11 or Day 12.
Tasting very good, slight bite that is probably from the yeast still in suspension as well as raw hop flavors.
OP
OP
No - don't add honey... that will just dry it out and will not leave any sweetness or honey flavor. Honey malt adds a bit of sweetness - not the end of the world if you don't have it. It is also 25L for color/caramel..... So, maybe just add a bit more caramel or crystal malt. Instead of 1/4 pound honey malt add a 1/4 pound crystal 20-30-40 range.
LJvermonster
Well-Known Member
Crystal 20 it is. I assume using all MO isn't going make or break this recipe either, right? I don't have an 2 row on hand. Cheers!
OP
OP
MO will be fine.
jjbrewhouse
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Yeah, wow, if that person is a BJCP Judge, he/she needs to work on it a bit and put in some more effort. I'd be a little pissed if I got that scoresheet back.
It was a competition at the local homebrew store, the judges were Brewers from local breweries. The contest was not held to BJCP style guidelines
It was a competition at the local homebrew store, the judges were Brewers from local breweries. The contest was not held to BJCP style guidelines
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some interesting observations. I opened a bottle from my first batch, and second batch tonight. They are visually very different despite being the exact same recipe (the one from the first post). First batch has been in the bottle for about 4 weeks. Second batch just shy of 2 weeks.
The second batch is bright, orange, much clearer. It's still hazy, but you can see your fingers through it when the level is low. Even without the direct overhead lighting it's a bright orange.
The older batch is darker, and way more hazy. I can't see through it at all, and without direct lighting it's more brown than orange.
Both used the same recipe, both fermented the same way (brewpi controlled fridge using the same beer profile). The only difference was double bittering addition in the first batch. I'm curious what I may have done differently. between the two. Or maybe this is just how it ages out. I guess I'll see as the second batch reaches the same age.
Please ignore my messy desk. I've been thrashing trying to get some projects done lately.
The second batch is bright, orange, much clearer. It's still hazy, but you can see your fingers through it when the level is low. Even without the direct overhead lighting it's a bright orange.
The older batch is darker, and way more hazy. I can't see through it at all, and without direct lighting it's more brown than orange.
Both used the same recipe, both fermented the same way (brewpi controlled fridge using the same beer profile). The only difference was double bittering addition in the first batch. I'm curious what I may have done differently. between the two. Or maybe this is just how it ages out. I guess I'll see as the second batch reaches the same age.
Please ignore my messy desk. I've been thrashing trying to get some projects done lately.
OP
OP
Age/oxygen can darken a beer. How do they taste compared to each other - I guess that is probably the bigger question.
Could be how the yeast dropped out of one during fermentation compared to the other possibly. (Did you reuse yeast??) Second, third generation yeast will act a bit different than first generation.
My beers are like you describe - they are hazy.... not cloudy and definitely not yeasty/murky.
Could be how the yeast dropped out of one during fermentation compared to the other possibly. (Did you reuse yeast??) Second, third generation yeast will act a bit different than first generation.
My beers are like you describe - they are hazy.... not cloudy and definitely not yeasty/murky.
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They taste different, but I expect them to since the first batch had too much warrior. The second batch has more aroma and a better taste. Did not reuse yeast, both were a fresh WYeast 1318 pack.
I'm really not worried they are different. I'm a new brewer still, so it was more trying to learn what may have happened to do better in the future.
I'm really not worried they are different. I'm a new brewer still, so it was more trying to learn what may have happened to do better in the future.
Madmannvan
Well-Known Member
Brewed the recipe from op minus the water treatment as I use spring water and don't have a water report on it. Everything went great OG was 1.057. Used gigayeast Vermont IPA and it is bubbling away happily.
My question is, I am fermenting in a corny keg and want to use a hop bag for the first dry hope before I transfer to 2nd dry hop keg. Is this a good idea or should I just dump the hops into the keg?
I was hoping to brew a second batch with cacl/gypsum and reuse the yeast cake, to see how it changed the flavor.
Thanks
My question is, I am fermenting in a corny keg and want to use a hop bag for the first dry hope before I transfer to 2nd dry hop keg. Is this a good idea or should I just dump the hops into the keg?
I was hoping to brew a second batch with cacl/gypsum and reuse the yeast cake, to see how it changed the flavor.
Thanks
OP
OP
Use a hop bag for that first dry hop (a nice big one to let the hops expand).
Do this for 2 reasons -
1.) If you throw the hops in loose, you will plug that keg up for sure when you try to transfer.
2.) You want to reuse the yeast - not that it is the end of the world if there is some trub and hop material in the yeast - but no point in adding even more debris to the yeast you want to reuse.
Madmannvan
Well-Known Member
Ok perfect that was my initial thought but this is my first time using the corny as a fermentor and wasn't sure about it
OP
OP
Another trick you can use is to use a piece of flat dental floss (Not flavored/minty) or small diameter fishing line (2lb test) and run it out through the lid of fermenter when you dry hop. That way you can tie the hop bag so it can only sink about 1/2 to 2/3 down in the beer. That way when you transfer your beer, the hop bag will not get sucked against the dip tube and plug it up. Or, you can just pull the hop bag back out all together before transferring.
Racked to the dry hop keg last night. FG was about 1.012. Aroma was off the charts. It reminded me of a super tropical Todd the Axe Man. I used 3.5oz Citra and 1.5oz Mosaic in the dry hop keg. I can't wait to try this. The Mosaic was really coming through on the sample.
I transferred on day 11.
I transferred on day 11.
OP
OP
I have 4 versions that are all in the pipeline -
1 - The recipe from the original post is carbed and on tap for about a week
2 - Same as Original - but Simcoe/Amarillo/Centennial in = amounts for boil and whirl pool. 1.5 ounces each of Simcoe and amarillo in the dry hops. Kegged last night and carbing.
3 - 1.065 version with Citra/Eureka/Columbus in 1:1:1 ratio..... Got its first dry hop on saturday....Dry hop keg tomorrow.... will see how it tastes and do final dry hop accordingly.
4 -1.060 version Citra/Columbus/Galaxy in 1.5 to 1 to .5 ratio..... Brewed on Sunday.
Might try a couple Amber Ales next with some of the same principles..... see how these last couple are coming around.
1 - The recipe from the original post is carbed and on tap for about a week
2 - Same as Original - but Simcoe/Amarillo/Centennial in = amounts for boil and whirl pool. 1.5 ounces each of Simcoe and amarillo in the dry hops. Kegged last night and carbing.
3 - 1.065 version with Citra/Eureka/Columbus in 1:1:1 ratio..... Got its first dry hop on saturday....Dry hop keg tomorrow.... will see how it tastes and do final dry hop accordingly.
4 -1.060 version Citra/Columbus/Galaxy in 1.5 to 1 to .5 ratio..... Brewed on Sunday.
Might try a couple Amber Ales next with some of the same principles..... see how these last couple are coming around.
Madmannvan
Well-Known Member
Ok thanks[emoji106] I saw a picture on another thread where someone hung a hop bag from the pressure release on the under side of the lid using a piece of string and a hose clamp. I think I'll give that a go. Super excited about this one the OG sample smelt and tasted amazing and there is still more hops to go can't wait to drink it
Madmannvan
Well-Known Member
Double post
Madmannvan
Well-Known Member
Sorry for double post
mikeroesoft
Well-Known Member
What's the recipe for the 1.065 version? Or did you just up everything proportionally?
Projectfdw
Well-Known Member
stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
yeah, let's see your home bar, Brau.!
Have you ever tried Citra-Mosaic-Simcoe?
I just finished Citra-Amarillo-Centennial and it's almost tapped. It was CTZ to bitter (.75) Citra (5) Amarillo (4) Centennial (1) I loved it.
