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New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Would love to get that recipe. Looks great.
thanks man

Grain:
100% - Pilsen Lite dme.
Og: 1.071
FG: 1.012
Yeast: Us05

Hotside hops
IMG_1664.jpeg


Dryhop at 58*f for 48 hours
3 oz mosaic Cryo
5 oz Nectaron
2 oz talus
(This is from memory, I can confirm when I look at my notes later)
 
This is my first triple dryhop in a while (the third was honestly to get more haze in the beer because it definitely fat less opaque than normal. But I also dryhop different this time. I put this out there now that my typical dryhop is softcrash and one large addition after closed transferring to a purged dryhop vessel (I have faith in my process so I’m not concerned with oxidation.) if I do a dbl dryhop I’ll just do one more dryhop while running co2

This beer I dip hoped. Then deyhoped with 20% of the load low Krausen. No crashing. Then I did the second dryhop which was 60% of the load post fermentation and only running co2 (on yeast cake). 3rd dryhop i was looking for stable haze so I soft crashed, racked to purged dryhoping fv and loaded the remaining 20% of the dryhop while running co2. Then I racked I top. Full verdict on if this produced a better beer will be in like 2 weeks or so
Beer looks stunning as always. I'm interested to see how your different dry hop process turns out as I've changed mine on this brew too. Did 1/3 of the dry hop towards the end of fermentation which was only day 2. A24 is an animal. Transferred to my dry hop keg this evening and added the remaining dry hops, I'll hold at 58C for maybe 2 days then crash. Will hopefully have a full report in the next week or two. The sample from the fermenter was pretty nice. Loving what Superdelic is doing.
 
I'm pretty interested in the DH conversation. I have always just done one large shot after fermentation. My process up until my last NEIPA was similar to DGallo with a DH keg.

My last one I upgraded to a conical. (Delta Ferm Tank). I built by own dry hopper and I can now DH as much as I want without worrying about O2. I haven't done multiple yet mainly because I've always just done it all in one. I may try splitting in the future to see the improvement.

On a related note have people experimented with how important getting the rid of the yeast cake is? The fermenter has a port on the bottom to drop yeast/trub, but so far I've had limited success actually getting all of it. My last NEIPA was by far my best though wondering how important it is in actual practice.

I know in reality losing ~0.5 gallon with a dry hop keg isn't too significant, but my hazies kick really quick which is a main reason I went to the conical.
 
Beer looks stunning as always. I'm interested to see how your different dry hop process turns out as I've changed mine on this brew too. Did 1/3 of the dry hop towards the end of fermentation which was only day 2. A24 is an animal. Transferred to my dry hop keg this evening and added the remaining dry hops, I'll hold at 58C for maybe 2 days then crash. Will hopefully have a full report in the next week or two. The sample from the fermenter was pretty nice. Loving what Superdelic is doing.
58c ?? That’s hot.. you mean 58f
 
I'm pretty interested in the DH conversation. I have always just done one large shot after fermentation. My process up until my last NEIPA was similar to DGallo with a DH keg.

My last one I upgraded to a conical. (Delta Ferm Tank). I built by own dry hopper and I can now DH as much as I want without worrying about O2. I haven't done multiple yet mainly because I've always just done it all in one. I may try splitting in the future to see the improvement.

On a related note have people experimented with how important getting the rid of the yeast cake is? The fermenter has a port on the bottom to drop yeast/trub, but so far I've had limited success actually getting all of it. My last NEIPA was by far my best though wondering how important it is in actual practice.

I know in reality losing ~0.5 gallon with a dry hop keg isn't too significant, but my hazies kick really quick which is a main reason I went to the conical.
I've had a conical for a few years and I soft crash then dump what I can. I don't think I ever get out as much as I'd like. That said to only time where I say it matters is if your going to rouse your hops in the fermenter, I did this in the past to get better extraction and if you don't get the yeast out then when you rouse the yeast that settles to the bottom get blown into suspension with the hops, no bueno... I stopped rousing after getting crazy hop burn from that happening and now I just do a double dry hop and feel I get good extraction that way as opposed to one big hop load. I still get out what yeast I can though. Slow and steady is the trick to getting as much as possible without the beer punching through the trub.
 
I’ve never been totally convinced about the benefits of staged dry hopping. It seems to me that if you agitate/rumble/recirc/shake your keg with one big dry hop you get the benefits that would have been had for staged dry hopping after fermentation but more so. And agree with Bailey I’d only want to do that if I’ve dumped yeast or transferred off yeast. Even then I think it’s possible to get over extracted by agitating too much (even on a short timeline).

On the other hand, of course I think adding hops at different stages of fermentation changes the yeast interaction and can have benefits of different flavor profiles. But I don’t like to do that much for this style because you can lose haze and it usually drops the FG.

All that to say this is how I arrived at my standard process for hazy. Finish ferm, cold crash, transfer to dh keg,big DH, agitate “a few” times, short ish, cold ish. But that leaves kinda only one more option for cold side hopping and that’s cold side extracts like dip hopping with incognito, which I like a lot.

Of course as a homebrewer I’m not super experienced with every possible teqnique so I’d love to hear from other experienced brewers if I’m missing something.
 
I’ve never been totally convinced about the benefits of staged dry hopping. It seems to me that if you agitate/rumble/recirc/shake your keg with one big dry hop you get the benefits that would have been had for staged dry hopping after fermentation but more so. And agree with Bailey I’d only want to do that if I’ve dumped yeast or transferred off yeast. Even then I think it’s possible to get over extracted by agitating too much (even on a short timeline).
I think this is the best answer. One big dryhop if your dryhoping colder, without yeast and with agitation.

2 separate addition can certainly be advantageous if you are dryhoping in the 60s with yeast still present. The separate additions will allow for better extraction because the active yeast will still release co2 causing the hops to float once they break apart and will keep more hop material in contact with the beer
 
Been thinking about this for a while but how much would tank/fermenter geometry effect hop extraction. I dry hop in a keg and can't help but think the narrow surface area of a keg reduces contact even though I flip the keg.
 
I'm going to try a new to me dry hopping process that a user on reddit swears by. I brew small 2 gallon batches and I own a few 1.5 and 2.5 gallon Torpedo kegs. I ferment in a 3 gallon Fermonster with a modified lid to do oxygen free transfers. My plan outlined in this user's post is to let the beer totally ferment out and crash it. Then transfer to a purged keg already loaded with hops. This keg is outfitted with a Flotit 2.0 floating dip tube. Keep the keg in the high 40's, low 50's and invert the keg every 12 hours for 36 hours. Crash it, then transfer to a serving keg.

Here is the thread I'm talking about.
 
I'm going to try a new to me dry hopping process that a user on reddit swears by. I brew small 2 gallon batches and I own a few 1.5 and 2.5 gallon Torpedo kegs. I ferment in a 3 gallon Fermonster with a modified lid to do oxygen free transfers. My plan outlined in this user's post is to let the beer totally ferment out and crash it. Then transfer to a purged keg already loaded with hops. This keg is outfitted with a Flotit 2.0 floating dip tube. Kep the keg in the high 40's, low 50's and invert the keg every 12 hours for 36 hours total contact time. Crash it, then transfer to a serving keg.

Here is the thread I'm talking about.
That's my method for IPA's. I'll be using this on my next brew, a 5 - 5 1/2 % hazy pale / session ipa.
 
I don’t disagree. My modern west coast double with talus Mosiac and nectaron has been my favorite beer I’ve brewed in some years. That modern west coast style is becoming my favorite. I’m a little burnt out from the hazy to be honest but this one is still good.

Here’s the wc View attachment 845082
Modern WCs are great (when done correctly of course).

Regarding the burn out on hazy IPAs, me too. However, I think it’s because they have been falling out of style and breweries are putting less care and time into perfecting the ones they put out. Or it could be that my taste buds have changed but I’m almost convinced it’s the former.
 
My dryhop process with 2 separate dry hops is because of my system, I brew 15gal batches and have 17.5 gal in my conical so there's no shaking that thing... yes rousing with co2 is an option but I didn't like the results I got from that so I dry hop at 55f 24 hours apart. That's gotten me the best and most consistent results.. I could transfer to dry hop kegs after fermentation is done and all that.. haven't gone down that avenue yet.
My latest, citra/nectaron
20240322_171028.jpg
 
My dryhop process with 2 separate dry hops is because of my system, I brew 15gal batches and have 17.5 gal in my conical so there's no shaking that thing... yes rousing with co2 is an option but I didn't like the results I got from that so I dry hop at 55f 24 hours apart. That's gotten me the best and most consistent results.. I could transfer to dry hop kegs after fermentation is done and all that.. haven't gone down that avenue yet.
My latest, citra/nectaron
View attachment 845290
Since I have an ample supply of Citra and Nectaron I'd be interested in your hopping amounts and schedule. (Although I would likely only do a single dry hop).
 
@bailey mountain brewer when you talk “oz per gallon” are you referring to the volume or wort at the point in the process OR just the intended finish volume (15 gals for you, 5 gals for many of us).

I ask cuz it’s a pretty big difference for these hop heavy beers, for me the boil/WP is 8 gallons but the finished is 5. So much loss to hop absorption.
 
I'm going to try a new to me dry hopping process that a user on reddit swears by. I brew small 2 gallon batches and I own a few 1.5 and 2.5 gallon Torpedo kegs. I ferment in a 3 gallon Fermonster with a modified lid to do oxygen free transfers. My plan outlined in this user's post is to let the beer totally ferment out and crash it. Then transfer to a purged keg already loaded with hops. This keg is outfitted with a Flotit 2.0 floating dip tube. Keep the keg in the high 40's, low 50's and invert the keg every 12 hours for 36 hours. Crash it, then transfer to a serving keg.

Here is the thread I'm talking about.
when I purge my kegs, I fill them with water/starsan to the top and push out with co2. How would you purge a keg that is loaded with hops?
 
when I purge my kegs, I fill them with water/starsan to the top and push out with co2. How would you purge a keg that is loaded with hops?
You could do that and then quickly drop them in. Then connect a gas line from the fermenter to the keg to let the fermentation gas repurge the keg.
 
I've had a conical for a few years and I soft crash then dump what I can. I don't think I ever get out as much as I'd like. That said to only time where I say it matters is if your going to rouse your hops in the fermenter, I did this in the past to get better extraction and if you don't get the yeast out then when you rouse the yeast that settles to the bottom get blown into suspension with the hops, no bueno... I stopped rousing after getting crazy hop burn from that happening and now I just do a double dry hop and feel I get good extraction that way as opposed to one big hop load. I still get out what yeast I can though. Slow and steady is the trick to getting as much as possible without the beer punching through the trub.
What temp do you soft crash to? I’m usually 50 soft and then 40 to cold crash before I transfer to the serving keg.

I noticed my last time I cleaned my fermenter right after transferring and still had a decent amount of beer over the yeast cake (still dialing in amount to put in the new conical). When I opened the dump valve over the sink I got a perfect dump like you see in videos. I’m considering going colder when I dump the yeast and can always let it rise a bit when I dry hop.

Getting a better yeast dump is the one missing part of my cold side process I want to nail.
 
What temp do you soft crash to? I’m usually 50 soft and then 40 to cold crash before I transfer to the serving keg.

I noticed my last time I cleaned my fermenter right after transferring and still had a decent amount of beer over the yeast cake (still dialing in amount to put in the new conical). When I opened the dump valve over the sink I got a perfect dump like you see in videos. I’m considering going colder when I dump the yeast and can always let it rise a bit when I dry hop.

Getting a better yeast dump is the one missing part of my cold side process I want to nail.
I soft crash to 50f and my cold crash is 38f
 
The main thing I've noticed with dumping yeast or trub is that going slow is the best way to get the most out. I barely open my butterfly valve, and have maybe 5psi of co2 pushing on it. If you open the valve too far the liquid will punch through and all the trub will stay in the fermenter, it's freakin frustrating hahaha.
 
The main thing I've noticed with dumping yeast or trub is that going slow is the best way to get the most out. I barely open my butterfly valve, and have maybe 5psi of co2 pushing on it. If you open the valve too far the liquid will punch through and all the trub will stay in the fermenter, it's freakin frustrating hahaha.
I do the same but still seem to get beer that punches through. I get a bit each time and try several times. I did put a reducing fitting after the butterfly valve that helped a bit more, but still sounds about like your experience.
 
I think with this batch I'm really going go try to dial in my carbonation and aim for the lower end...probably around 2.3 Volumes of CO2. I may have to adjust my beer lines but my upstairs kegerator is usually kept at 34 degrees and the calculators online are saying 5-8psi for the targeted volumes.
 
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I think with this batch I'm really going go try to dial in my carbonation and aim for the lower end...probably around 2.3 Volumes of CO2. I may have to adjust my beer lines but my upstairs kegerator is usually kept at 34 degrees and the calculators online are saying 5-8psi for the targeted volumes.
I like mine right around there. That said have you ever raise the temp of the kegerator to 40-42? I serve my beers at that temp or a little warmer. Seems to help the aroma pop more
 
I like mine right around there. That said have you ever raise the temp of the kegerator to 40-42? I serve my beers at that temp or a little warmer. Seems to help the aroma pop more
I turned it down to 34 a long time ago because some friends (in the middle of summer) thought the beer should be colder, so I haven't touched it since. I should try it a bit warmer and see what the difference ends up being.
 
I soft crash to 50f and my cold crash is 38f
To follow up I soft crashed this time to 45F and got the most trub/yeast I’ve ever got while dumpling. Doesn’t seem like I got enough to say I got everything (so hard to tell with a stainless) but the last dump attempt it was basically just clear beer so maybe.

I let things warm up then to 50 F and then dry hopped.

The downside is while this went well I forgot to disconnect my blow off and put some CO2 on it while I crashed it so afraid I oxygenated it. I did that one before. I need to make myself a sign so I don’t forget lol
 
Finally got to brewing a hazy, it’s been tough to brew lately with a move and a new baby. But she’s cute and sweeter than her brother, ha!

Just did a Brujos style, trying to hit some extremes.

1.074 OG targeting 1.020-1.022 FG.
2-row 35% the rest wheat and oats, 5% maltodextrin. Chloride 300 ppm.

Lots of citra in the kettle - FW, 10 min, WP. Citra incognito into the fermenter. Planning for citra lupomax, Nelson, motueka dry hop.

Pitched 3 packs (7gal batch) of CS hazy since y’all talked so much shiit on it, gotta give it a chance to prove you wrong!

Will follow up in 4 weeks!
 
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I did catch something while watching one of the latest TH YouTube videos when they went to New Zealand and stopped at a local homebrewer's place. Nate mentioned while looking at the recipe, to not be afraid to add more hops in the boil for further hop saturation, along with the whirlpool. I thought that was interesting so I May try that for my next one.
 
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