New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[AM1]

In regards to oxygen ingress, many folks with standard fermenters just tape a mylar balloon to an airlock and put it on when ready to cold crash.

You basically use some tape to get it pretty tight around the airlock (I use a one piece), then hook it up to CO2 to get some CO2 inside before placing it on the fermenter.
https://brulosophy.com/2018/05/10/7-methods-for-reducing-cold-side-oxidation-when-brewing-beer/

Thanks for the info above! Will give it a shot!

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I was intending to provide their LAIII equivalent strain, which I thought was Burlington but I’m not correct. Which strain is their version of LAIII?

London Fog. WLP066.

Ach sorry, I meant to reply to this earlier. My impression is that White Labs are notably cautious about claiming a direct equivalence between London Fog and 1318 compared to some of their other "matches", it tends to be framed as more "this would be our choice for making hazies" rather than "this is our version of..."

I interpret that as it behaves similarly but doesn't share the same source. But we know that 1318 is not the classic "Tadcaster" diastatic yeast used by Boddington's in their heyday, and that genetically it's a Whitbread yeast similar to 1098. So my suspicion is that the "Boddington's" link is that 1318 was harvested from a Boddies made in a Whitbread factory after Whitbread bought Boddies and closed down their brewery in Manchester, with just a standard Whitbread production yeast.

And Whitbread yeasts are one of the most ubiquitous yeasts in British brewing, so there are plenty of sources for White Labs to get a yeast that is genetically almost identical to 1318, but which wasn't harvested from Boddies. Hence their caution in talking about the source of London Fog, whilst confidently recommending it for beers that are similar to those made with 1318.

As an aside, it's just weird how this idea persists of Dickensian fogs in London, when they were driven by the pollution from burning coal in cities. Which we've not done for 60+ years, following the Great Smog of 1952, the year the Queen came to the throne. So inasmuch as the average Brit thinks of London fog, it's in the context of it killing 10,000 of our citizens - not a cool thing to base your branding on.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Smog_of_London

 

[Sully1986]

So here is the first poor trying with the buddy who got me the hops. Super tasty. Will edit with full recipe later

Edit. For recipe:

36.4% 2-row
36.4% golden promise
12.1% flaked Oats
12.1% white wheat
3% Honey Malt (had left over from another brew.

Mashed @154* for 1 hours.

.5oz mosaic at 30min
1oz of both Mosaic and Simcoe at 10 min
2oz mosaic/simcoe 1oz of galaxy 30 min whirlpool at 160

1pkg of both Imperial Barbarian/Juice

Ferment at 68 till fg reach raised to 70 for 48 hours.

Drop to 60 for 72hour dryhop
4oz galaxy
2.5oz Mosaic
1.5oz Simcoe

cold crash before packaging.

OG : 1.074
FG: 1.018

 

[SanPancho]

for anyone interested there is NZ nectaron for sale. 10# remaining as of this post.

For Sale - NZ nectaron hops

 

[aaronm13]

So my latest DIPA is in the keg 4 weeks now and I'm really happy with it except the body of it is pretty bad. For the ABV and FG it's very thin so wondering how I might be able to fix it. The details of the beer are as follows.

OG- 1.084
FG - 1.020
ABV - 8.5%

Crisp Pale Malt - 62.6%
Wheat malt - 13%
Oat Malt - 12.6%
Spelt - 11.8%
Yeast - Omega DIPA 1st gen

Calcium - 114
Mag - 7
Sodium - 79
Sulfate - 140
Chloride - 233

Hops were Citra hot side and 7oz of Nectaron and 3.5oz Citra dry hop.

I know without trying the beer it's impossible to tell but any ideas would be great. Looking back over previous recipes where I think I was happy with the mouthfeel I used around 7% carapils but have dropped it recently for some unknown reason. Would using this again help? I really need to take proper tasting notes of beers and not rely on memory.

 

[HopsAreGood]

So my latest DIPA is in the keg 4 weeks now and I'm really happy with it except the body of it is pretty bad. For the ABV and FG it's very thin so wondering how I might be able to fix it. The details of the beer are as follows.

OG- 1.084
FG - 1.020
ABV - 8.5%

Crisp Pale Malt - 62.6%
Wheat malt - 13%
Oat Malt - 12.6%
Spelt - 11.8%
Yeast - Omega DIPA 1st gen

Calcium - 114
Mag - 7
Sodium - 79
Sulfate - 140
Chloride - 233

Hops were Citra hot side and 7oz of Nectaron and 3.5oz Citra dry hop.

I know without trying the beer it's impossible to tell but any ideas would be great. Looking back over previous recipes where I think I was happy with the mouthfeel I used around 7% carapils but have dropped it recently for some unknown reason. Would using this again help? I really need to take proper tasting notes of beers and not rely on memory.

At a quick glance your FG, grains used, Chloride level, and size of dryhop would all lead you to believe the body should be pretty full.

The only thing I can think from the information provided, is the yeast. I haven’t used Conan by itself in quite some time, but when I did use it years ago I don’t recall it leaving a particularly full or round mouth feel. But to be honest all of the other characteristics I just listed should counteract that.

Carapils would just leave some additional dextrins in the beer, but at 1.020 you already have plenty of them. At nearly 40% wheat/ oats/spelt, I don’t really think carapils would be noticeable.

It could also just be time. Konan drops pretty heavy so if it was bound to any of the good stuff it may have taken some down with it.

 

[wepeeler]

So my latest DIPA is in the keg 4 weeks now and I'm really happy with it except the body of it is pretty bad. For the ABV and FG it's very thin so wondering how I might be able to fix it. The details of the beer are as follows.

OG- 1.084
FG - 1.020
ABV - 8.5%

Crisp Pale Malt - 62.6%
Wheat malt - 13%
Oat Malt - 12.6%
Spelt - 11.8%
Yeast - Omega DIPA 1st gen

Calcium - 114
Mag - 7
Sodium - 79
Sulfate - 140
Chloride - 233

Hops were Citra hot side and 7oz of Nectaron and 3.5oz Citra dry hop.

I know without trying the beer it's impossible to tell but any ideas would be great. Looking back over previous recipes where I think I was happy with the mouthfeel I used around 7% carapils but have dropped it recently for some unknown reason. Would using this again help? I really need to take proper tasting notes of beers and not rely on memory.

Carapils will help with body/mouthfeel. I use close to 10% in my neipas. I know some brewers using up to 20%, which I think is too much.

What was your mash temp? Your beer will be a different beer after 4 weeks in the keg. Some of mine have dropped out in that timespan, resulting in a thinner mouthfeel and less haze. Not totally clear by any means, but definitely some setting going on.

 

[aaronm13]

At a quick glance your FG, grains used, Chloride level, and size of dryhop would all lead you to believe the body should be pretty full.

The only thing I can think from the information provided, is the yeast. I haven’t used Conan by itself in quite some time, but when I did use it years ago I don’t recall it leaving a particularly full or round mouth feel. But to be honest all of the other characteristics I just listed should counteract that.

Carapils would just leave some additional dextrins in the beer, but at 1.020 you already have plenty of them.

That's what I'm thinking too. Every box is ticked for a big mouthfeel but is pretty thin. I was aiming for a FG of 15 or 16 but I overshot my gravity by a good few points so kinda glad it didn't go any lower. For 8.5% there's no booze off it. I've ordered some more Verdant yeast inspired by your last brew even though I swore I wouldn't use LA3 again on a DIPA but you proved it can be done. Checked their calculator and it says I need 17g of yeast so just going to pitch the 2 full packs. I haven't used Omega Conan in a good few years so can't remember what those beer were like.

 

[aaronm13]

At a quick glance your FG, grains used, Chloride level, and size of dryhop would all lead you to believe the body should be pretty full.

The only thing I can think from the information provided, is the yeast. I haven’t used Conan by itself in quite some time, but when I did use it years ago I don’t recall it leaving a particularly full or round mouth feel. But to be honest all of the other characteristics I just listed should counteract that.

Carapils would just leave some additional dextrins in the beer, but at 1.020 you already have plenty of them. At nearly 40% wheat/ oats/spelt, I don’t really think carapils would be noticeable.

It could also just be time. Konan drops pretty heavy so if it was bound to any of the good stuff it may have taken some down with it.

Carapils will help with body/mouthfeel. I use close to 10% in my neipas. I know some brewers using up to 20%, which I think is too much.

What was your mash temp? Your beer will be a different beer after 4 weeks in the keg. Some of mine have dropped out in that timespan, resulting in a thinner mouthfeel and less haze. Not totally clear by any means, but definitely some setting going on.

Mash temperature was 66C (151F). To be honest now you mention it I didn't notice it being so thin right away so maybe it is the yeast just dropping out. I'll give the keg a shake, haha.

 

[HopsAreGood]

That's what I'm thinking too. Every box is ticked for a big mouthfeel but is pretty thin. I was aiming for a FG of 15 or 16 but I overshot my gravity by a good few points so kinda glad it didn't go any lower. For 8.5% there's no booze off it. I've ordered some more Verdant yeast inspired by your last brew even though I swore I wouldn't use LA3 again on a DIPA but you proved it can be done. Checked their calculator and it says I need 17g of yeast so just going to pitch the 2 full packs. I haven't used Omega Conan in a good few years so can't remember what those beer were like.

If you’re going to use verdant I would recommend using exactly what the pitch calculator says. I know it seems like having more than enough yeast is beneficial, but if the direct spec from the manufacturer says x amount of yeast is needed, then just go with that. That’s what I did. I rounded up to the nearest gram. Also, I mashed at 150 and when I checked the temp after the 60 minutes it had gone down to 147. So I think mashing low definitely helped.

Another thing to consider is that I usually use some fairly small percent of dextrose, but with this beer I didn’t. I’m not sure of the science behind it but I’ve seen people say that because dextrose is so fermentable and easy for the yeast to digest, it can actually be counterproductive because they feast so easily on the initial sugars, and then slow down and crap out a little bit on the more “difficult” to chew on sugars from the grains. Without the dextrose there’s no initial frenzy for them to slow down after.

It’s just anecdotal, but in this beer the lack of dextrose and mashing low resulted in a 78% attenuation. Like you I have struggled to get Verdant to attenuate in previous batches.

 

[aaronm13]

If you’re going to use verdant I would recommend using exactly what the pitch calculator says. I know it seems like having more than enough yeast is beneficial, but if the direct spec from the manufacturer says x amount of yeast is needed, then just go with that. That’s what I did. I rounded up to the nearest gram. Also, I mashed at 150 and when I checked the temp after the 60 minutes it had gone down to 147. So I think mashing low definitely helped.

Another thing to consider is that I usually use some fairly small percent of dextrose, but with this beer I didn’t. I’m not sure of the science behind it but I’ve seen people say that because dextrose is so fermentable and easy for the yeast to digest, it can actually be counterproductive because they feast so easily on the initial sugars, and then slow down and crap out a little bit on the more “difficult” to chew on sugars from the grains. Without the dextrose there’s no initial frenzy for them to slow down after.

It’s just anecdotal, but in this beer the lack of dextrose and mashing low resulted in a 78% attenuation. Like you I have struggled to get Verdant to attenuate in previous batches.

You're probably right there with the pitching amounts. If the manufactures say X amount it must be right. I've only used this yeast once before on a 6.5% beer and it finished where it was supposed to, I just had no activity for around 36 hours. It's very close links to LA3 has totally put me off using it again as this yeast has caused me nothing but heartache. I use a Grainfather so maintaining mash temps is easy so might even go as low as 149 on it.

 

[Dgallo]

So my latest DIPA is in the keg 4 weeks now and I'm really happy with it except the body of it is pretty bad. For the ABV and FG it's very thin so wondering how I might be able to fix it. The details of the beer are as follows.

OG- 1.084
FG - 1.020
ABV - 8.5%

Crisp Pale Malt - 62.6%
Wheat malt - 13%
Oat Malt - 12.6%
Spelt - 11.8%
Yeast - Omega DIPA 1st gen

Calcium - 114
Mag - 7
Sodium - 79
Sulfate - 140
Chloride - 233

Hops were Citra hot side and 7oz of Nectaron and 3.5oz Citra dry hop.

I know without trying the beer it's impossible to tell but any ideas would be great. Looking back over previous recipes where I think I was happy with the mouthfeel I used around 7% carapils but have dropped it recently for some unknown reason. Would using this again help? I really need to take proper tasting notes of beers and not rely on memory.

How is your carb level? An often over looked part of body in NEIPA is the carbonation level. Higher carb level leads to less perceived body/mouthfeel. Recently I’ve like to shoot for about 2.2-2.4 vols

 

[HopsAreGood]

How is your carb level? An often over looked part of body in NEIPA is the carbonation level. Higher carb level leads to less perceived body/mouthfeel. Recently I’ve like to shoot for about 2.2-2.4 vols

This is a good point. I’ve played with different carb levels and have settled in on 2.21 vols. 10 psi at 42 degrees. I used to do 2.4 but prefer the slightly lower 2.2.

 

[aaronm13]

How is your carb level? An often over looked part of body in NEIPA is the carbonation level. Higher carb level leads to less perceived body/mouthfeel. Recently I’ve like to shoot for about 2.2-2.4 vols

Good point. It's definitely on the higher side. Not sure of the exact PSI. Should I maybe off gas it a little?

 

[wepeeler]

Mash temperature was 66C (151F). To be honest now you mention it I didn't notice it being so thin right away so maybe it is the yeast just dropping out. I'll give the keg a shake, haha.

It's 100% gotten thinner just by being in the keg for 4 weeks, BUT it's shouldn't be super noticeable with your grist and hop schedule. I only notice it when I'm down to the last few pints or so. They come out a lot clearer (still hazy, but def not opaque) and taste thinner.

I wouldn't shake the keg lol. I do know of some breweries that do that, but the stuff that drops out isn't worth putting back into suspension.

151 is a little low for that OG IMO. YMMV. I used to mash super high, like 156. I find that 152 is a great spot to keep a nice thick mouthfeel without the end product being overly sweet. Let those hops shine!

 

[couchsending]

Been a while since I contributed anything here. We were fortunate to brew a beer with Cellarmaker earlier this month and we just released it today. It’s a mash up of how we brew our highly hopped 5% beers and what they call Hazy WC Pale Ale. A lot of similarities to the recipes I was contributing here for a while. Clean yeast, present bitterness, permanent haze but no wheat or oats. Full mouthfeel for 5%. All about the hop character. Lots and lots of hop character. Here’s the recipe if anyone would like to try it at home.

Guest Experience
Hazy WC Pale Ale

Rahr 2 Row
20% Pils
-ideally European to help cut FAN down
8% Carafoam
2% crisp Caramalt
1-2% Acidulated

1.052/1.014
Yeast: ECY Old Newark
-the grandfather of most American Yeasts (Ballantine)

mash: 154/162/168

I forget the water profile exactly, pretty sure
100ish Ca
4-1 So4 to Cl
NaCl targeting 50ppm Na

mash pH 5.35-5.45
Preboil ph 5.2-5.3

Simcoe @ 30
HBC586/Simcoe WP @195-200
3

(we usually do larger 30 minute additions and lower WP to 180)

50ish IBUs

KO ph target of 5.0

Ferment at 66 for 3 days then freerise to 68/70 for D rest. Remove yeast, cool to 66 and add DH. 1.3oz/gallon DH all at once. Rouse next day. Remove hops the next day and check for creep/diacetyl. If none then cool to 32 removing more hops.

DH: 60% HBC586 T-90
17% Simcoe
17% Centennial
6% HBC586 Cryo

We keep alternating between DH at 55 vs DH at warmer temps. We had a beer end up with that rotting melon character (otherwise known as hop stank) that was dry hopped at 55 and have been scaredof it ever since. Think it was more yeast health related but time will tell. We consider it an off flavor so try to avoid it at all costs.

 

[beervoid]

Been a while since I contributed anything here. We were fortunate to brew a beer with Cellarmaker earlier this month and we just released it today. It’s a mash up of how we brew our highly hopped 5% beers and what they call Hazy WC Pale Ale. A lot of similarities to the recipes I was contributing here for a while. Clean yeast, present bitterness, permanent haze but no wheat or oats. Full mouthfeel for 5%. All about the hop character. Lots and lots of hop character. Here’s the recipe if anyone would like to try it at home.

Guest Experience
Hazy WC Pale Ale

Rahr 2 Row
20% Pils
-ideally European to help cut FAN down
8% Carafoam
2% crisp Caramalt
1-2% Acidulated

1.052/1.014
Yeast: ECY Old Newark
-the grandfather of most American Yeasts (Ballantine)

mash: 154/162/168

I forget the water profile exactly, pretty sure
100ish Ca
4-1 So4 to Cl
NaCl targeting 50ppm Na

mash pH 5.35-5.45
Preboil ph 5.2-5.3

Simcoe @ 30
HBC586/Simcoe WP @195-200
3

(we usually do larger 30 minute additions and lower WP to 180)

50ish IBUs

KO ph target of 5.0

Ferment at 66 for 3 days then freerise to 68/70 for D rest. Remove yeast, cool to 66 and add DH. 1.3oz/gallon DH all at once. Rouse next day. Remove hops the next day and check for creep/diacetyl. If none then cool to 32 removing more hops.

DH: 60% HBC586 T-90
17% Simcoe
17% Centennial
6% HBC586 Cryo

We keep alternating between DH at 55 vs DH at warmer temps. We had a beer end up with that rotting melon character (otherwise known as hop stank) that was dry hopped at 55 and have been scaredof it ever since. Think it was more yeast health related but time will tell. We consider it an off flavor so try to avoid it at all costs.

View attachment 763094View attachment 763095
View attachment 763097

Nice one! I would be curious to know how long the haze will be stable.
I heard in a Yakima webinar, I think it was with Creature Comforts that its definitely related to yeast health and the amount in suspension when dryhopping.

 

[LumberZach]

So I plan on brewing one next week and decided to try an ultra low calcium water profile this time. My water profile looks like this (I use Bru'n Water supporter version for my calculations):

• Calcium - 20ppm
• Magnesium - 13ppm
• Sodium - 84ppm
• Sulfate - 98ppm
• Choloride - 250ppm
• pH - 5.29 (with the help of some lactic acid)

I was able to achieve such low calcium levels with the help of canning salt and potassium chloride. I didn't use a single gram of calcium chloride. This was all built with distilled water.

As for the recipe, here's my grain bill:

• 62.96% Rahr 2Row
• 25.93% BestMalz Spelt
• 11.11% Weyermann CaraFoam

I get terrible efficiency for some reason brewing these. Always have, but I now brew 1.75-2 gallon batches (into the fermonster), so it's no big deal to buy a few more ounces of grain. My wife is a travel nurse, so her and I are always bounching place to place every 6 months or so. I needed to put my 10 gallon kettle and the majority of my gear in storage and bought a 4 gallon thick wall aluminum kettle with a Brew Bag to match. I don't need a chiller as I'm able to put the whole kettle in the kitchen sink to get it cooled down to whirlpool temp and ultimately pitching temp.

Hopping looks like this:

• 0.5oz. Idaho 7 @ 5 minutes left in the boil
• 0.5oz. Idaho 7, 0.5oz. Citra & 0.5oz. Galaxy in the whirlpool @ 170F (I let this fall over the course of 30 minutes)
• 2oz. Citra & 2oz. Galaxy for the dry hop after soft crashing for 24 hours. I let them sit for 48 hours before crashing for 24 hours, and finally kegging.

Before traveling with my wife, I was brewing 5 gallon batches and dry hopping on day 2 of fermentation. I got really good at using Galaxy and would use 6oz. of it for the dry hop. Never had an issue with hop burn or anything. The beers alway were so saturated with tropical notes. I would go through a keg in less than a month because all my friends wanted growler fills. This was back in 2015 to 2017. I feel Galaxy crops that us homebrewers can get have taken a nose dive in recent years. The last time I used Galaxy in a notable quantity all I got out of it was a muted non tropical earthy flavor. My tried and true recipe using Galaxy was no longer the same. I swore I would never use it again until I heard that brewers where getting those trademark tropical notes. With this new beer I decided to give Galaxy another shot but not use it exclusively. I've learned alot about hopping with these small batches that hops do not scale linearly. Thanks to this thread, I've also moved my day 2 dry hops to a post fermentation dry hop after soft crashing. I gained some of my mojo back simply because of this process change. I will update this thread with my results.

 

[beervoid]

So I plan on brewing one next week and decided to try an ultra low calcium water profile this time. My water profile looks like this (I use Bru'n Water supporter version for my calculations):

• Calcium - 20ppm
• Magnesium - 13ppm
• Sodium - 84ppm
• Sulfate - 98ppm
• Choloride - 250ppm
• pH - 5.29 (with the help of some lactic acid)

I was able to achieve such low calcium levels with the help of canning salt and potassium chloride. I didn't use a single gram of calcium chloride. This was all built with distilled water.

As for the recipe, here's my grain bill:

• 62.96% Rahr 2Row
• 25.93% BestMalz Spelt
• 11.11% Weyermann CaraFoam

I get terrible efficiency for some reason brewing these. Always have, but I now brew 1.75-2 gallon batches (into the fermonster), so it's no big deal to buy a few more ounces of grain. My wife is a travel nurse, so her and I are always bounching place to place every 6 months or so. I needed to put my 10 gallon kettle and the majority of my gear in storage and bought a 4 gallon thick wall aluminum kettle with a Brew Bag to match. I don't need a chiller as I'm able to put the whole kettle in the kitchen sink to get it cooled down to whirlpool temp and ultimately pitching temp.

Hopping looks like this:

• 0.5oz. Idaho 7 @ 5 minutes left in the boil
• 0.5oz. Idaho 7, 0.5oz. Citra & 0.5oz. Galaxy in the whirlpool @ 170F (I let this fall over the course of 30 minutes)
• 2oz. Citra & 2oz. Galaxy for the dry hop after soft crashing for 24 hours. I let them sit for 48 hours before crashing for 24 hours, and finally kegging.

Before traveling with my wife, I was brewing 5 gallon batches and dry hopping on day 2 of fermentation. I got really good at using Galaxy and would use 6oz. of it for the dry hop. Never had an issue with hop burn or anything. The beers alway were so saturated with tropical notes. I would go through a keg in less than a month because all my friends wanted growler fills. This was back in 2015 to 2017. I feel Galaxy crops that us homebrewers can get have taken a nose dive in recent years. The last time I used Galaxy in a notable quantity all I got out of it was a muted non tropical earthy flavor. My tried and true recipe using Galaxy was no longer the same. I swore I would never use it again until I heard that brewers where getting those trademark tropical notes. With this new beer I decided to give Galaxy another shot but not use it exclusively. I've learned alot about hopping with these small batches that hops do not scale linearly. Thanks to this thread, I've also moved my day 2 dry hops to a post fermentation dry hop after soft crashing. I gained some of my mojo back simply because of this process change. I will update this thread with my results.

Sodium and sulfate clash

 

[LumberZach]

Sodium and sulfate clash

I pulled this profile from the Tree House yeast thread, and didn't see anyone complaining about it.

 

[beervoid]

I pulled this profile from the Tree House yeast thread, and didn't see anyone complaining about it.

That's what brewing literature claims, multiple sources I can't quote. Have never tested it out myself, but looking at the end profile of tree house beers there is definately not alot of sodium in there.

 

[LumberZach]

That's what brewing literature claims, multiple sources I can't quote. Have never tested it out myself, but looking at the end profile of tree house beers there is definately not alot of sodium in there.

Grain and fermentation alter those numbers greatly.

 

[beervoid]

Grain and fermentation alter those numbers greatly.

Yes but not sodium

 

[LumberZach]

Yes but not sodium

Guess there's only one way to find out.

 

[beervoid]

Guess there's only one way to find out.

Yes keep us posted, I know there are other breweries that do use sodium, I think Hill Farmstead was speculated to go fairly high 50ppm or so, above 50 is where it starts to clash with sulfates if I remember correctly

 

[Dgallo]

I pulled this profile from the Tree House yeast thread, and didn't see anyone complaining about it.

@beervoid for personal reference, my water profile I use is practically identical and there is nothing wrong or astringent in flavor. Sodium enhances mouthfeel and brightens character. My na / so4 are usually as follows;

Na: 75-85 ppm
So4: 100-125 ppm

 

[beervoid]

@beervoid for personal reference, my water profile I use is practically identical and there is nothing wrong or astringent in flavor. Sodium enhances mouthfeel and brightens character. My na / so4 are usually as follows;

Na: 75-85 ppm
So4: 100-125 ppm

Nice, its only theorethical what I read, never really felt the need to push sodium myself.
I've been playing with potassium iodide but im not sure I like it. Pretty hard to evaluate water profile with hop bomb beers.
I did go high in a stout without problems but no sulfate.

 

[beervoid]

@beervoid for personal reference, my water profile I use is practically identical and there is nothing wrong or astringent in flavor. Sodium enhances mouthfeel and brightens character. My na / so4 are usually as follows;

Na: 75-85 ppm
So4: 100-125 ppm

How high do you go in chlorides?

 

[couchsending]

Sodium and sulfate clash

only at elevated levels

 

[couchsending]

Nice one! I would be curious to know how long the haze will be stable.
I heard in a Yakima webinar, I think it was with Creature Comforts that its definitely related to yeast health and the amount in suspension when dryhopping.

Only beers we’ve had clear are ones made with low floccing yeast. We make a few single hop pale ales with our Kölsch yeast that will clear over time.