New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

Coastal haze is likely a blend of LA3, Conan, and Sach Trois. (The white labs versions) I don’t know this for a fact, but someone posted this assumption a while ago, and the description of the yeast is on par with this. I used it once and wasn’t impressed, but that was probably more my fault than the yeast itself. Maybe I’ll revisit it at some point.

Here:

View attachment 761471

I'm curious how they compare since they are both blends. (I cannot find any details on what is in coastal haze

I was actually just replying to @BoilerInSoCal about the same thing, regarding the sta1 gene. I believe it is London Fog (LAIII) and 644 (Imperial a20). I don’t see Conan being a part of the blend personally, that said @Northern_Brewer is the most knowledgeable person on yeast genetics that I know of so it certainly possible it’s in there.

Fun fact, Imperial does blend Juice and Citrus together for commercial pitches as well as blends of Juice and Barbarian.

 

[wepeeler]

Well I just poured the first glass of my latest neipa, and its excellent. First time using white labs coastal haze and I'll let the picture do the talking.

65% 2row
15% white wheat
8% malted oats
5% carapils
5% dextrose
2% honey malt

Hot side hops
Simcoe, citra, mosaic
Dry hops
Citra, galaxy, strata

Not even a good picture but ya get the idea. Coastal haze will be my new go to for this style.

View attachment 760576

It's my go to for this style as well. I've used about 8 different yeasts, and CH has been my favorite so far. No hop burn, harshness etc. Such a great yeast. CHUGS.

I really like to do a small dry hop during active fermentation I think it really increases haze. Then I try to time my second dry hop so that I will be cold crashing within 2 days and getting it out of that vessel in no more than 4 days. I don’t like to let the beer sit on a large amount of hops for more than that. Here’s my last brew.View attachment 760977

Skip the DH during fermentation. You'll get better results dropping the yeast and DHing. I found my beer cleared immensely when DHing during ferm. And you'll get brighter hop character after dropping the yeast first. Seems to be the consensus around here, and I used to be a big fan of biotransformation. Beer is drinkable almost immediately after kegging DHing post ferm.

 

[BoilerInSoCal]

Cool! Thanks all. Looks like I need to put CH on the list!

 

[Shenanigans]

You got me interested in trying CH too.
Just checked and it's readily available here in Europe too, so no excuse not to try it.

Is it only really for NEIPAs or would it work in other beer styles?

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I believe it is Burlington Ale (LAIII) and 644 (Imperial a20). I don’t see Conan being a part of the blend personally, that said @Northern_Brewer is the most knowledgeable person on yeast genetics that I know of so it certainly possible it’s in there.

You're too kind, but that reputation is far from justified. Assuming you're talking about WLP095 Burlington, that's the White Labs version of Conan, but it's got a reputation for being a rather bland member of the Conan family compared to eg the Yeast Bay version.

Don't think of Conan as being a single strain that is the same between different yeast labs, it varies quite a bit - presumably because it's mostly been harvested in different degrees of stressed semi-death from Heady cans.

 

[Dgallo]

Assuming you're talking about WLP095 Burlington, that's the White Labs version of Conan

I was intending to provide their LAIII equivalent strain, which I thought was Burlington but I’m not correct. Which strain is their version of LAIII?

 

[HopsAreGood]

I was intending to provide their LAIII equivalent strain, which I thought was Burlington but I’m not correct. Which strain is their version of LAIII?

London Fog. WLP066.

https://www.whitelabs.com/yeast-single?id=134&type=YEAST&style_type=0

 

[secretlevel]

How would people rate their luck with the 2021 Citra from YVH? Has it been consistent?

I am not sure how long ago it was, but I picked up two 1 lb bags of 2019 Citra from a YVH Flash Friday sale. I am just about done with the first bag (with the second one still to open). These 2019 Citra were not the greatest. Lacking the "bright" citrus flavors of the previous bag (from a different vendor and year). They have more of a citrus pith character. I am too cheap to dump hops, so I have been using them but more as a "better Cascade" than as a showcase hop.

The Experimental Hop Variety Pack seems fun to play with
https://yakimavalleyhops.com/products/experimental-hop-variety-pack

A little late to this - just used 8oz of '21 Citra in Whirlpool and the beer is fantastic. I've rarely gotten bad Citra from YVH though. Simcoe and Mosaic have been spotty much more often.

 

[Jimmy_Hops]

How are you guys dry hopping at the tail end of fermentation? Any time I have done that, I end up with a diacetyl bomb. I have just been soft crashing then dry hopping at about 55 for a couple of days with rousing and that has worked well enough, but I want to try doing a warmer dry hop on my next batch I’m brewing on Thursday. I assume that I would add the hops with a few points left so the yeast can ferment out the sugar in the hops and then do a diacetyl rest? I have started doing forced diacetyl tests on all of my batches and that works, but I feel like the dry hops would have to be in the beer for like 4+ days for the yeast to clean everything up using this method.

Edit: I’m thinking of doing half warm and the rest after a soft crash to see if this adds a layer of flavor in the finished beer btw.

Any info for me guys? Do you dry hop after passing a forced diacetyl test? Do you have to do another forced diacetyl test after dry hopping too? Any help on this question would be greatly appreciated!

 

[CascadesBrewer]

I'm on the fence as well. I think a thread for reporting what people thought of specific hops from a specific year from a specific place would be extremely helpful to gauge if jumping on something like this would be beneficial.

Hop Quality is probably one area that I need to step up my game. I tend to get sucked into ordering 4 to 6 one lb bags that are on sale without any specific plans to use them. All these new hops and $14/lb sale prices so tempting. Often it will be a year before I even get to opening up a bag, and likely another year or more before I end up using them up. I often notice significant differences from bag to bag (hops like Amarillo, Citra, Simcoe, etc.) but since my last bag might have been purchased 2 years ago from a different vendor, so I don't have enough data points for a pattern (crop year? lot? vendor?).

I latest NEIPA batch is about ready to be dry hopped this evening. I dropped it down to 45F last night and will let it warm back up to 60F to 65F today.

 

[aaronm13]

London Fog. WLP066.

https://www.whitelabs.com/yeast-single?id=134&type=YEAST&style_type=0

Are you positive London Fog is the same as LAIII? I've used both a lot recently and both ferment totally different and end product is pretty different too. Very curious on this as I wouldn't have put the two of them as the same strain.

 

[HopsAreGood]

Are you positive London Fog is the same as LAIII? I've used both a lot recently and both ferment totally different and end product is pretty different too. Very curious on this as I wouldn't have put the two of them as the same strain.

I’m definitely not positive. But I will say that it is most commonly the white labs yeast that is considered comparable to London Ale 3. I think there are subtle differences, or sometimes even not-so-subtle differences, in strains that are thought to be the same from different manufacturers. Wyeast London Ale 3 (1318) omega British Ale V, and imperial juice are all pretty similar. I’ve never actually used London fog, but I do believe it is widely accepted as the white labs “version” of those other yeasts. The white labs description of it is very similar to that of London ale three, but the specs on temp range and attenuation are slightly different.

Seeing as you have used it several times, I would actually defer to your experience with it.

 

[aaronm13]

I’m definitely not positive. But I will say that it is most commonly the white labs yeast that is considered comparable to London Ale 3. I think there are subtle differences, or sometimes even not-so-subtle differences, in strains that are thought to be the same from different manufacturers. Wyeast London Ale 3 (1318) omega British Ale V, and imperial juice are all pretty similar. I’ve never actually used London fog, but I do believe it is widely accepted as the white labs “version” of those other yeasts. The white labs description of it is very similar to that of London ale three, but the specs on temp range and attenuation are slightly different.

Seeing as you have used it several times, I would actually defer to your experience with it.

That's very true as Northern Brewer posted about not all Conan strains being the same, I'm sure the same can be said for LAIII. When I started using London Fog, attenuation was 65-70%, now it's 75-82% so even that strain has changed over the years. I used to love it but does nothing for me now but it's performance is rock solid where LAIII is a lottery as to where it will finish.

 

[HopsAreGood]

I haven’t really shared any beers I’ve made in a while, but this one came out pretty good. I just kegged and carbed it and took a sample and it’s fantastic. I’ve made a lot of beers and this one is definitely towards the top of the list in terms of my favorites.

65% Mecca Grade Lamonta (2-row)
29% Mecca Grade Shaniko (white wheat)
6% Pilsner DME

Ca: 80
Mg: 10
Na: 62
Cl: 223
So4: 60

Mashed at 150
PH: 5.3
1.072 - 1.016 7.35%
Approximately 78% AA

10 min: 2oz mosaic
170 WP: 2oz mosaic, 2oz galaxy
DH: 6oz galaxy, 4oz mosaic lupomax

16 grams Verdant ipa yeast (based upon lallemand pitch rate calculator)

7 days at 68
2 days at 70
3 days at 72

I fermented the beer out and then dropped the temp to 60° for 24 hours, and then dropped it to 58 for an additional 24 hours. I then close-transferred it into the fermentation CO2 purged keg. At 58°, I popped the lid of the keg, and immediately started running CO2 through the gas post while I dropped in the dry hops. The lid was probably open for a maximum of 10 seconds. I then sealed it up and did 10 cycles of purging to 30 psi.

Over the next 12 hours I roused the keg three times, approximately every four hours. Each time I took it out of the Keezer I rolled it back-and-forth five or six times. I turned it upside down and back around a few times as well. I did this process four or five times each of the three times I took it out. It then sat in the keezer at 58 for another 12 hours, and then I did the exact same procedure I outlined before.

So in total, it was at 58° for 36 hours and I roused it six times. After the last time rousing it, I immediately set the chest freezer to 40°. It reached 40 in about four hours, and then I let it sit for another 24 hours at that temperature.

This dry hop keg had a floating dip tube with the small filter attachment on it. It’s similar to the Janish type filter that goes over the entire dip tube, but this one just goes right next to the floating ball.

I then jumped the beer from the dryhop keg into a liquid purged serving keg. Carbed it up and took a sample and it’s really really good.

The first and main thing I notice is that I can absolutely pick out defined galaxy and defined mosaic flavors. I don’t have to search for them and convince myself that they’re there. They’re absolutely there in the forefront. The aroma is very strong and super pungent. Mouth feel is thick and lush and very full. I’m sure this will continue to mellow a little bit, as there is The slightest hint of hop burn. It’s really not too pronounced, but it’s just a little bit hot. But for being this young and having that many hops I’m pretty impressed. It’s immediately very drinkable.

Maybe someday I’ll figure out how to take a good picture of beer, but this should give you an idea. If you’ve ever had trillium’s headroom, which is a hugely hop saturated mosaic/galaxy beer, this is pretty close.

https://www.trilliumbrewing.com/beers/headroom

 

[tld6008]

Any info for me guys? Do you dry hop after passing a forced diacetyl test? Do you have to do another forced diacetyl test after dry hopping too? Any help on this question would be greatly appreciated!

I don't do a forced test but do what I call a rest by bring temp up to 72 after fermentation for 6-12 hrs then back down to mid 50s to drop yeast then up to mid 60s.for dry hop from there cold crash 48-50 to drop the hops prior to kegging. I have never had a diacetyl problem

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Ferment for 2weeks, usually 68 to 70f, crash to 45, drop yeast if you can, bring back to 58f dry hop there for 2 or 3 days, cold crash for 36 hours, then package. That's by my process that has been working for me.

 

[R.A.I.D]

The first and main thing I notice is that I can absolutely pick out defined galaxy and defined mosaic flavors. I don’t have to search for them and convince myself that they’re there. They’re absolutely there in the forefront. The aroma is very strong and super pungent. Mouth feel is thick and lush and very full. I’m sure this will continue to mellow a little bit, as there is The slightest hint of hop burn. It’s really not too pronounced, but it’s just a little bit hot. But for being this young and having that many hops I’m pretty impressed. It’s immediately very drinkable.

Thank you for sharing.

Try to cold crash at 28 F for 4 days after dry hopping. It helped on my hop burn issue.

 

[HopsAreGood]

Thank you for sharing.

Try to cold crash at 28 F for 4 days after dry hopping. It helped on my hop burn issue.

28? Isn’t that too cold? Will it not
freeze?

Also, are you talking about cold crashing for 4 days on the hops, or after removing them?

I’m definitely considering going down to 34-36 for maybe 72 hours.

 

[aaronm13]

I haven’t really shared any beers I’ve made in a while, but this one came out pretty good. I just kegged and carbed it and took a sample and it’s fantastic. I’ve made a lot of beers and this one is definitely towards the top of the list in terms of my favorites.

65% Mecca Grade Lamonta (2-row)
29% Mecca Grade Shaniko (white wheat)
6% Pilsner DME

Ca: 80
Mg: 10
Na: 62
Cl: 223
So4: 60

Mashed at 150
PH: 5.3
1.072 - 1.016 7.35%
Approximately 78% AA

10 min: 2oz mosaic
170 WP: 2oz mosaic, 2oz galaxy
DH: 6oz galaxy, 4oz mosaic lupomax

16 grams Verdant ipa yeast (based upon lallemand pitch rate calculator)

7 days at 68
2 days at 70
3 days at 72

I fermented the beer out and then dropped the temp to 60° for 24 hours, and then dropped it to 58 for an additional 24 hours. I then close-transferred it into the fermentation CO2 purged keg. At 58°, I popped the lid of the keg, and immediately started running CO2 through the gas post while I dropped in the dry hops. The lid was probably open for a maximum of 10 seconds. I then sealed it up and did 10 cycles of purging to 30 psi.

Over the next 12 hours I roused the keg three times, approximately every four hours. Each time I took it out of the Keezer I rolled it back-and-forth five or six times. I turned it upside down and back around a few times as well. I did this process four or five times each of the three times I took it out. It then sat in the keezer at 58 for another 12 hours, and then I did the exact same procedure I outlined before.

So in total, it was at 58° for 36 hours and I roused it six times. After the last time rousing it, I immediately set the chest freezer to 40°. It reached 40 in about four hours, and then I let it sit for another 24 hours at that temperature.

This dry hop keg had a floating dip tube with the small filter attachment on it. It’s similar to the Janish type filter that goes over the entire dip tube, but this one just goes right next to the floating ball.

I then jumped the beer from the dryhop keg into a liquid purged serving keg. Carbed it up and took a sample and it’s really really good.

The first and main thing I notice is that I can absolutely pick out defined galaxy and defined mosaic flavors. I don’t have to search for them and convince myself that they’re there. They’re absolutely there in the forefront. The aroma is very strong and super pungent. Mouth feel is thick and lush and very full. I’m sure this will continue to mellow a little bit, as there is The slightest hint of hop burn. It’s really not too pronounced, but it’s just a little bit hot. But for being this young and having that many hops I’m pretty impressed. It’s immediately very drinkable.

Maybe someday I’ll figure out how to take a good picture of beer, but this should give you an idea. If you’ve ever had trillium’s headroom, which is a hugely hop saturated mosaic/galaxy beer, this is pretty close.

https://www.trilliumbrewing.com/beers/headroom
View attachment 761529View attachment 761530

That looks absolutely perfect. Did you find the Verdant yeast worked ok on its own especially with the high OG? I'm so reluctant to go back to LA3/Verdant for higher abv beers even though I love what it brings to the table. They also have a certain milky look to them that you totally nailed. Do you harvest this yeast to use again or just pitch a new pack?

 

[R.A.I.D]

28? Isn’t that too cold? Will it not
freeze?

Also, are you talking about cold crashing for 4 days on the hops, or after removing them?

I’m definitely considering going down to 34-36 for maybe 72 hours.

It will not freeze. The alcohol in the beer prevents it from freezing. Don't be afraid of 28 F. It will freeze around 22 F. Depending on the ABV.

And yes, I do this before racking off the hops.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I typically go hard cold crash to 38 for 2days and works well. I'd go lower but in my mini fridge in a NC garage, it takes some effort/time to get lower unless in winter. I visually watch it clear and seems to work quite well.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Believe it or not, Ive never used S04 before and tomorrow I will be using it for the first time in a NEIPA, OG 1.080. For those who have used it, what temp do you figure to get the most fruity esters from it? I think Ive seen peeps taking about 65 on the low end of Ferm temp for more fruitiness, but just would like to see confirmation. Also - as I don't have a ton of experience with dry yeast on higher OGs, would 2 packs be sufficient? Thanks.

Yesterday was the first time in 3 months I brewed and tomorrow, Im brewing again to get my fermenter pipeline alive again! Woot woot

EDIT: ferments shows AA to be 74-80%. I will be step mashing as my usual at 150 (40min) /163 (30min) /170 with 170 being 10minute mashout. So trying to anticipate my AA.

 

[AM1]

Guys quick question on cold crashing which i intend to do for the first time.

i plan to do a 40-45f for 36 hours to drop out any particles etc from my neipa.
my question is whether this will introduce any oxygen to the beer?

Also as i bottle condition, and which i intend to do following the cold crash, do i need to bring the temperature up in the fermenter or just bottle at 40-45f and place bottles for carnonation in room temperatures?

After the cold crash will there be enough yeast to kick start carbonation in the bottles??

thank you all in advance!!

 

[tld6008]

There will be plenty of yeast, after bottling elevated temp will carbonate faster but after a week or so need to store cold

 

[wepeeler]

Any info for me guys? Do you dry hop after passing a forced diacetyl test? Do you have to do another forced diacetyl test after dry hopping too? Any help on this question would be greatly appreciated!

Typically a D rest isn't necessary because you're going to be fermenting higher than 66 anyway. Most brewers are starting around 66 and letting it get up to 70-72, plenty good for getting rid of diacetyl. Just be sure you're at FG, then soft crash to 50 for 24-48 hours to drop yeast. DH 24-48 hours at same temp, then cold crash (if you want) and keg. I've kegged before and after cold crashing and not so sure it makes a big difference. Maybe a little less hop debris in the cold crashed beer. Ymmv

 

[wepeeler]

Are you positive London Fog is the same as LAIII? I've used both a lot recently and both ferment totally different and end product is pretty different too. Very curious on this as I wouldn't have put the two of them as the same strain.

London Fog, London Ale 3...similar names. But I would put my money on not being identical either. I used LA3 exclusively before finally branching out. LF does not produce the same beer. To me it's less sweet, more dank and produces a softer mouthfeel. Fwiw I wouldn't use LA3 again, for a neipa.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

Guys quick question on cold crashing which i intend to do for the first time.

i plan to do a 40-45f for 36 hours to drop out any particles etc from my neipa.
my question is whether this will introduce any oxygen to the beer?

Also as i bottle condition, and which i intend to do following the cold crash, do i need to bring the temperature up in the fermenter or just bottle at 40-45f and place bottles for carnonation in room temperatures?

After the cold crash will there be enough yeast to kick start carbonation in the bottles??

thank you all in advance!!

So depending on your equipment ... you'll need to find a way to avoid suckback when you cold crash. If you can do that then your good to go and I would bottle cold then let the bottles come back to room temp for a week or 2 but once carbed would store them cold if you can.

 

[Shenanigans]

So depending on your equipment ... you'll need to find a way to avoid suckback when you cold crash. If you can do that then your good to go and I would bottle cold then let the bottles come back to room temp for a week or 2 but once carbed would store them cold if you can.

I agree with this.
Also if it's your first time bottling with cold beer be aware that it will cause condensation on the bottles if they are warmer than the beer.
This results in the bottles becoming very slippy so be careful.
I only did it once when I brewed a lager and almost dropped a few bottles.
Mabe others with more experience have a suggestion like wearing certain type of gloves or also cooling the bottles to reduce condensation.

 

[AM1]

Thank you for the valuable info guys much appreciated!

 

[secretlevel]

Guys quick question on cold crashing which i intend to do for the first time.

i plan to do a 40-45f for 36 hours to drop out any particles etc from my neipa.
my question is whether this will introduce any oxygen to the beer?

Also as i bottle condition, and which i intend to do following the cold crash, do i need to bring the temperature up in the fermenter or just bottle at 40-45f and place bottles for carnonation in room temperatures?

After the cold crash will there be enough yeast to kick start carbonation in the bottles??

thank you all in advance!!

In regards to oxygen ingress, many folks with standard fermenters just tape a mylar balloon to an airlock and put it on when ready to cold crash.

You basically use some tape to get it pretty tight around the airlock (I use a one piece), then hook it up to CO2 to get some CO2 inside before placing it on the fermenter.
https://brulosophy.com/2018/05/10/7-methods-for-reducing-cold-side-oxidation-when-brewing-beer/
Edit: you can also use a little CO2 from fermentation, just be careful and use it at the tail-end of ferm to fill it up, as it can fill quickly. You don't need the balloon to be all the way full.