New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[Dgallo]

The stuff of dreams for us lowly home brewers! Congratulations Brother! I'd love to try it.

Thanks brother!!

 

[beervoid]

Thanks! 5lb/bbl

Right on! No such thing as Less is more

 

[Dgallo]

Right on! No such thing as Less is more

I still believe less is more to some extent but modern dryhoping techniques certainly allow you to push the rates higher than in the past.

5lb/bbl is the equivalent of 12-14oz for a 5 gallon batch depending on the volume at dryhoping. We also used cryo and spectrum within that rate to cut the amount of green material to avoid astringency

 

[Dgallo]

Incredible stuff, congrats!! Looks like a straight juice bomb. Wish I could get it up here in MA.

Thanks man! Idk where in mass you are but I believe uptown beverage does hit western mass

 

[beervoid]

I still believe less is more to some extent but modern dryhoping techniques certainly allow you to much the rates higher than in the past.

5lb/bbl is the equivalent of 12-14oz for a 5 gallon batch depending on the volume at dryhoping. We also used cryo and spectrum within that rate to cut the amount of green material to avoid astringency

Yes agree! It all boils down to process, this was put to the extreme with the tree house limit series I think

 

[beervoid]

Well just shy of 5 weeks in the keg and my Citra/Nectaron NEIPA is ****ing delicious, super pungent dank tropical fruit. A completely different beer than just 2 days ago. Full report and recipe soon.

Interesting my experience is exactly the opposite, as time goes by the diesel character starts to become sharper

 

[MIWI]

Need some advice. I am just finishing my second dry hop addition. For my dry hopping I use a course hop bag to dry hop that allows me to remove after a period of time. A friend told me that by using this method the hops in the center of the bag are not getting any exposure for 100% of the hop soak. Is there a better method for dry hopping and having the availability to remove hops during the dry hop process?

 

[anteater8]

Need some advice. I am just finishing my second dry hop addition. For my dry hopping I use a course hop bag to dry hop that allows me to remove after a period of time. A friend told me that by using this method the hops in the center of the bag are not getting any exposure for 100% of the hop soak. Is there a better method for dry hopping and having the availability to remove hops during the dry hop process?

Most people here are dry hopping loose, cold crashing so the hops sink to the bottom of the carboy, and then racking the beer off the hops and into the keg, possibly with a floating dip tube and/or a filter to keep any particles out of the keg.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Need some advice. I am just finishing my second dry hop addition. For my dry hopping I use a course hop bag to dry hop that allows me to remove after a period of time. A friend told me that by using this method the hops in the center of the bag are not getting any exposure for 100% of the hop soak. Is there a better method for dry hopping and having the availability to remove hops during the dry hop process?

I typically dry hop loose, but I have dry hopped in a bag at times. There is evidence that you will get less extraction using a hop sack, but it depends on many factors. In a small canister, the inner hops might be completely dry, but in a large bag there might not be much difference than adding the hops loose. Adding some weights might also keep the bag from just floating on the top.

As far as "the ability to remove dry hops", personally I have never removed dry hops. This is partially due to my equipment (I used to ferment in narrow necked glass carboys, now I generally dry hop loose in Fermonster fermenters). These days I worry enough about oxidation with hoppy beers, that I don't really see a way I could remove a bag of hops and also avoid getting air into my fermenter. I also don't really see the need to remove hops. I will typically dry hop once for 2 days, then cold crash for 1-2 days before kegging.

Some people on this thread have more sophisticated equipment or processes that may let them dump hops out of the bottom of a conical fermenter, or transfer the beer into a second purged vessel containing their dry hops.

@MIWI : I would say to try and keep it simple and find a process that works for you (while keeping the dangers of cold side oxidation in mind). If you want to use a sack, use a large one that gives the hops plenty of room to swell and move around (or use multiple hop sacks). I am not convinced there is a need to remove hops.

 

[aaronm13]

Do you mind sharing your recipe?

No problem, here it is,

OG 1.085
FG 1.020
Verdant Yeast

Crisp Extra Pale - 38%
Oat Malt - 23%
Spelt - 12%
Golden Promise - 10%
Carafoam - 8%
Flaked Oats - 8%
Cara Malt - 1%

8g each of citra, nectaron and nelson at 5 minutes

Whirlpool
1.5oz Citra T90
1oz Citra Lupomax
1.5oz Nelson
1.5oz Nectaron

Dry Hop
4oz Citra T90
2oz Citra Lupomax
3oz Nelson
3oz Nectaron

Pitched yeast at 65 and let free rise to 72/73

 

[aaronm13]

My collab the warbler is out in cans. Can’t lie, feels good to see my logo on the label.

It is out in distro through Uptown Beverage. Keep an eye out
View attachment 820524

They look incredible, best of luck with them. Pity distribution doesn't extend to Ireland, would love to get my hands on them to try.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Verdant Yeast

Thanks for sharing. Was this just 1 pack of yeast for a 5 gallon batch? I am mostly using dry yeast these days and Verdant is my go to, but I am never quite sure where I draw the line on one pack vs two (or 1.5? or a starter?). My most common usage of Verdant has been 1 pack into 2.7 gals of wort at 1.065 to 1.070.

 

[aaronm13]

Thanks for sharing. Was this just 1 pack of yeast for a 5 gallon batch? I am mostly using dry yeast these days and Verdant is my go to, but I am never quite sure where I draw the line on one pack vs two (or 1.5? or a starter?). My most common usage of Verdant has been 1 pack into 2.7 gals of wort at 1.065 to 1.070.

This brew was about 17g I think, so 1.5 packs. I just use the pitch rate calculator on the Lallemand site. Hasn't let me down yet. Going forward I think I'm going to top crop the yeast to reuse to try and reduce costs. I've gotten lazy the last while just dumping packs in.

Pitching rate calculator | Lallemand Brewing

 

[Mark Solomon]

Seems like a lot of the recipes on here are splitting their hops about 1/3 in the whirlpool, and 2/3 as dry hops. Is this the general consensus?

For me, I prefer hop flavor over aroma and would think that having more in the whirlpool would provide more hop flavor. Is this a safe assumption? I just kegged a recipe yesterday and followed a 50/50 split (8oz in whirlpool, 8 oz as dry hop), so I guess I will find out shortly.

Thx!

-Mark

 

[Dgallo]

Seems like a lot of the recipes on here are splitting their hops about 1/3 in the whirlpool, and 2/3 as dry hops. Is this the general consensus?

For me, I prefer hop flavor over aroma and would think that having more in the whirlpool would provide more hop flavor. Is this a safe assumption? I just kegged a recipe yesterday and followed a 50/50 split (8oz in whirlpool, 8 oz as dry hop), so I guess I will find out shortly.

Thx!

-Mark

Idk who started that myth back in the day but it so dumb.

Hops added at any point add flavor. Even the 60 minute adds flavor with the bitterness. The reason the aroma gets elevated from dryhopping is because the compounds aren’t getting blown off from fermentation or converted by the yeast, so in addition to all the flavor the dryhoping imparts, it also elevates the aroma

 

[CyberFox]

Idk who started that myth back in the day but it so dumb.

Hops added at any point add flavor. Even the 60 minute adds flavor with the bitterness. The reason the aroma gets elevated from dryhopping is because the compounds aren’t getting blown off from fermentation or converted by the yeast, so in addition to all the flavor the dryhoping imparts, it also elevates the aroma

This reminds me of an article from Janish (Zero Hot-Side Hopped NEIPA | HPLC Testing for Sensory Bitterness - Scott Janish) where he dry hopped with 10 ounces and omitted hot-side hops altogether. The aroma and taste was very subdued and he figured that hot-side hops must be necessary for flavor. He made another beer with about 0.5 ounces of hops added to the hot-side, along with a 6 ounce dry hop, and it turned out a lot better than the "dry hop only" beer. It appears that hopping on both the hot and cold-side is necessary to make the best beer. I wish I knew what the best ratio is for hot vs cold, but it's definitely not easy to figure out. I usually do 50/50 and it works pretty well.

 

[Dgallo]

This reminds me of an article from Janish (Zero Hot-Side Hopped NEIPA | HPLC Testing for Sensory Bitterness - Scott Janish) where he dry hopped with 10 ounces and omitted hot-side hops altogether. The aroma and taste was very subdued and he figured that hot-side hops must be necessary for flavor. He made another beer with about 0.5 ounces of hops added to the hot-side, along with a 6 ounce dry hop, and it turned out a lot better than the "dry hop only" beer. It appears that hopping on both the hot and cold-side is necessary to make the best beer. I wish I knew what the best ratio is for hot vs cold, but it's definitely not easy to figure out. I usually do 50/50 and it works pretty well.

Absolute. The best beers have depth of hop character and you can’t get that alone from either just hot side or just cold side.

10-20 ibus from boil (depending on your preference), 0.5-1oz/gallon whirlpool, 2oz/gallon dryhop will get you there

 

[BongoYodeler]

Absolute. The best beers have depth of hop character and you can’t get that alone from either just hot side or just cold side.

10-20 ibus from boil (depending on your preference), 0.5-1oz/gallon whirlpool, 2oz/gallon dryhop will get you there

What math conversion, if any, are you using for the 2oz/gallon dry hop if some or all the hops are T45? Does that even matter in the dry hop, or does it only matter during the boil due to the higher AA%?

 

[Dgallo]

What math conversion, if any, are you using for the 2oz/gallon dry hop if some or all the hops are T45? Does that even matter in the dry hop, or does it only matter during the boil due to the higher AA%?

I think the use of t45 pellets benefit you more in dryhop than else where but for hopped lagers or ales I want to be clear, I will use it in whirlpool too.

Also it seems cryo(all t45) use is very personal, some love using advanced hop products and some not at all. Im in the middle. I like the intensity and lower polyphenol portion of the concentrated pellets but I absolutely love that t90 full flavored hop note.

This is not set in stone for me as I do still mess around with the rates of each but I’d say that my dryhops are 30-40% t45 pellets

 

[CyberFox]

Absolute. The best beers have depth of hop character and you can’t get that alone from either just hot side or just cold side.

10-20 ibus from boil (depending on your preference), 0.5-1oz/gallon whirlpool, 2oz/gallon dryhop will get you there

That sounds pretty proper to me. I always aim for 20 IBUs too. Since I usually do a 50/50 whirlpool/dry hop, I might try reducing the whirlpool addition to see what's what.

 

[BongoYodeler]

I think the use of t45 pellets benefit you more in dryhop than else where but for hopped lagers or ales I want to be clear, I will use it in whirlpool too.

Also it seems cryo(all t45) use is very personal, some love using advanced hop products and some not at all. Im in the middle. I like the intensity and lower polyphenol portion of the concentrated pellets but I absolutely love that t90 full flavored hop note.

This is not set in stone for me as I do still mess around with the rates of each but I’d say that my dryhops are 30-40% t45 pellets

Thanks, but perhaps my question wasn't clear, I apologize. You say you shoot for 2oz/gallon in your dry hop, So say for 5 gallons you're talking 10oz of dry hops. My question is are you treating the T45 hops the same as T90 hops? I've read that 1oz of T45 hops is equivalent to around 1.5oz of T90 hops. But I'm unsure if that applies strictly to hot side, or does it also apply cold side? IOW, are you dry hopping at a rate of 10oz/5gallons regardless of whether they're T45 or T90? Or do you adjust the hop weight down if using T45? Hopefully that question makes more sense?

 

[Dgallo]

Thanks, but perhaps my question wasn't clear, I apologize. You say you shoot for 2oz/gallon in your dry hop, So say for 5 gallons you're talking 10oz of dry hops. My question is are you treating the T45 hops the same as T90 hops? I've read that 1oz of T45 hops is equivalent to around 1.5oz of T90 hops. But I'm unsure if that applies strictly to hot side, or does it also apply cold side? IOW, are you dry hopping at a rate of 10oz/5gallons regardless of whether they're T45 or T90? Or do you adjust the hop weight down if using T45? Hopefully that question makes more sense?

Sorry. Now I gotcha. Yes I am using 2oz per gallon as a equivalence amount, counting LUPOMAX as 1.8 to 1 for t90 and cryo 2 to 1.

With that’s said I always use the current volume when calculating totals. So if I’m dryhoping in 5.75 gallons of beer, even though my finish volume will be 5 gallons, I’ll do 2 x 5.75 for 11.5 hops (I’d probably just do 12 oz at that point lol)

 

[BongoYodeler]

Sorry. Now I gotcha. Yes I am using 2oz per gallon as a equivalence amount, counting LUPOMAX as 1.8 to 1 for t90 and cryo 2 to 1.

With that’s said I always use the current volume when calculating totals. So if I’m dryhoping in 5.75 gallons of beer, even though my finish volume will be 5 gallons, I’ll do 2 x 5.75 for 11.5 hops (I’d probably just do 12 oz at that point lol)

Perfect, thanks!!

 

[MIWI]

I typically dry hop loose, but I have dry hopped in a bag at times. There is evidence that you will get less extraction using a hop sack, but it depends on many factors. In a small canister, the inner hops might be completely dry, but in a large bag there might not be much difference than adding the hops loose. Adding some weights might also keep the bag from just floating on the top.

As far as "the ability to remove dry hops", personally I have never removed dry hops. This is partially due to my equipment (I used to ferment in narrow necked glass carboys, now I generally dry hop loose in Fermonster fermenters). These days I worry enough about oxidation with hoppy beers, that I don't really see a way I could remove a bag of hops and also avoid getting air into my fermenter. I also don't really see the need to remove hops. I will typically dry hop once for 2 days, then cold crash for 1-2 days before kegging.

Some people on this thread have more sophisticated equipment or processes that may let them dump hops out of the bottom of a conical fermenter, or transfer the beer into a second purged vessel containing their dry hops.

@MIWI : I would say to try and keep it simple and find a process that works for you (while keeping the dangers of cold side oxidation in mind). If you want to use a sack, use a large one that gives the hops plenty of room to swell and move around (or use multiple hop sacks). I am not convinced there is a need to remove hops.

The recipe I used called for a 7 day first hop and a 4 day second hop. The author of the recipe stated not to leave the hops past the given duration due to the hops will start giving off grassy flavors which he wanted to stay away from. Not sure how they perform the process without O2 exposure. So I purged with CO2 during the addiction and removal. Some say it works others are not sure. We will see. Kegging on Thursday. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Dgallo]

The recipe I used called for a 7 day first hop and a 4 day second hop. The author of the recipe stated not to leave the hops past the given duration due to the hops will start giving off grassy flavors which he wanted to stay away from. Not sure how they perform the process without O2 exposure. So I purged with CO2 during the addiction and removal. Some say it works others are not sure. We will see. Kegging on Thursday. Thanks for all the help.

In the future, only get your NEIPA advice from this thread. You should NEVER remove hops bags During dryhoping and you should be dryhoping 4-5 days max

 

[Langerz]

Had my middle son’s graduation party and successfully kicked my first leg since starting to brew and was my NEIPA shown early. Only lasted 2 weeks in the keg and got rave reviews. A couple questions before I do the next one…

1) The flavor seemed to evolve during the whole two weeks. Started out a bit overly bitter with some bite which I think is fairly normal. Then just started getting better and better for about 5 days. Toward the end it changed a bit. Not in a bad way but less juicy and a little more piney. I assume this was oxygen since being my first time I did ok but not great on transfers etc and definitely had more exposure than I liked. The color stayed awesome though with plenty of hop flavor just evolving hop flavor so wanted to get opinions if it was oxygen or something else

2) Looking for a bit of advice on hops next shot. My original plan was to do the classics Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic for the second but I picked up a pound of Necatron recently and want to use that. I could just swap one of the Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic with Necatron. I also have plenty I7 and Simcoe around to throw in. Probably no wrong answer but curious thoughts on best hops with Necatron

Also thanks again for all the help in this thread despite you all talking me into spending a bunch on kegging equipment (I’m joking it was coming eventually anyway) I’m pretty thrilled with results of the first one.

 

[secretlevel]

Had my middle son’s graduation party and successfully kicked my first leg since starting to brew and was my NEIPA shown early. Only lasted 2 weeks in the keg and got rave reviews. A couple questions before I do the next one…

1) The flavor seemed to evolve during the whole two weeks. Started out a bit overly bitter with some bite which I think is fairly normal. Then just started getting better and better for about 5 days. Toward the end it changed a bit. Not in a bad way but less juicy and a little more piney. I assume this was oxygen since being my first time I did ok but not great on transfers etc and definitely had more exposure than I liked. The color stayed awesome though with plenty of hop flavor just evolving hop flavor so wanted to get opinions if it was oxygen or something else

2) Looking for a bit of advice on hops next shot. My original plan was to do the classics Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic for the second but I picked up a pound of Necatron recently and want to use that. I could just swap one of the Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic with Necatron. I also have plenty I7 and Simcoe around to throw in. Probably no wrong answer but curious thoughts on best hops with Necatron

Also thanks again for all the help in this thread despite you all talking me into spending a bunch on kegging equipment (I’m joking it was coming eventually anyway) I’m pretty thrilled with results of the first one.

That sounds like a blast! I'm in a vicious cycle with every NEIPA, that sounds pretty similar to your situation:
Day 1 off the hops: "Damn, I need to add more hops, this is muddled and kind of mediocre"
Day 7: "Ok, that's really changed, this is coming along nicely"
Day 14: "Wow! Definitely brewing this again!"

 

[Langerz]

That sounds like a blast! I'm in a vicious cycle with every NEIPA, that sounds pretty similar to your situation:
Day 1 off the hops: "Damn, I need to add more hops, this is muddled and kind of mediocre"
Day 7: "Ok, that's really changed, this is coming along nicely"
Day 14: "Wow! Definitely brewing this again!"

Well I will at least say the best news was my wife said “you are definitely brewing this one again” which helps with the money spent on equipment lol

 

[CyberFox]

I have a few questions about soft crashing to remove yeast:

1. Is it the temperature drop that matters for a soft crash (e.g. fermenting at 68 and soft crashing to 58 = 10 degree drop) or the specific temperature for a given yeast?

2. Can lager yeasts be soft crashed if fermented in the 60s or would their resilience to cold temperatures prevent that?

3. I know that soft crashing ale yeast in the upper 50s is the standard, but ale yeast can also be fermented at 60 degrees or lower. How would you soft crash an ale yeast fermented at 60 degrees?

Thanks in advance!

 

[aaronm13]

That sounds like a blast! I'm in a vicious cycle with every NEIPA, that sounds pretty similar to your situation:
Day 1 off the hops: "Damn, I need to add more hops, this is muddled and kind of mediocre"
Day 7: "Ok, that's really changed, this is coming along nicely"
Day 14: "Wow! Definitely brewing this again!"

Ha, at least I'm not the only one who goes through this thought process.

 

[MIWI]

In the future, only get your NEIPA advice from this thread. You should NEVER remove hops bags During dryhoping and you should be dryhoping 4-5 days max

Thanks.

 

[bailey mountain brewer]

I have a few questions about soft crashing to remove yeast:

1. Is it the temperature drop that matters for a soft crash (e.g. fermenting at 68 and soft crashing to 58 = 10 degree drop) or the specific temperature for a given yeast?

2. Can lager yeasts be soft crashed if fermented in the 60s or would their resilience to cold temperatures prevent that?

3. I know that soft crashing ale yeast in the upper 50s is the standard, but ale yeast can also be fermented at 60 degrees or lower. How would you soft crash an ale yeast fermented at 60 degrees?

Thanks in advance!

The yeast strain is more important.
I soft crash into the 40s for most. I can't say I've done it with lager yeast but yeah you would have to cold crash that for it to drop out.

 

[aaronm13]

Does anyone know when the 23 New Zealand hops usually go on sale? Tempted by the 22% off Yakima Valley have at the moment of some different types but would prefer to wait if they'll be out in a few weeks.

 

[anteater8]

I've got 4 oz of El Dorado and 4 oz of El Dorado Lupomax that I want to use in my next NEIPA. I love the watermelon candy sweetness from El Dorado, and I'm looking for 1-2 hops to pair it with as the other 8 oz. Here's what I've got, anyone have recommendations?

Amarillo (12 oz)
Citra (2 oz)
Columbus (4 oz)
HBC 586 Lupomax (2 oz)
Idaho 7 Lupomax (2 oz)
Mosaic (4 oz)
Nelson (1 oz)
Strata (8 oz)
Vic Secret (4 oz)

 

[Dgallo]

Does anyone know when the 23 New Zealand hops usually go on sale? Tempted by the 22% off Yakima Valley have at the moment of some different types but would prefer to wait if they'll be out in a few weeks.

You might be sooner but July/august.

 

[Frieds]

I've got 4 oz of El Dorado and 4 oz of El Dorado Lupomax that I want to use in my next NEIPA. I love the watermelon candy sweetness from El Dorado, and I'm looking for 1-2 hops to pair it with as the other 8 oz. Here's what I've got, anyone have recommendations?

Amarillo (12 oz)
Citra (2 oz)
Columbus (4 oz)
HBC 586 Lupomax (2 oz)
Idaho 7 Lupomax (2 oz)
Mosaic (4 oz)
Nelson (1 oz)
Strata (8 oz)
Vic Secret (4 oz)

It might be silly, but something I do when im trying to decide on what hop combos to use from my inventory is to just type different combinations into Untappd and see what ratings the beers with them generally have.

 

[beervoid]

It might be silly, but something I do when im trying to decide on what hop combos to use from my inventory is to just type different combinations into Untappd and see what ratings the beers with them generally have.

I did it a bit more extensive, made a list of top breweries and see which hops and hop combos where used in top rated beers.
You would never guess which hop was nr 1

 

[Frieds]

I did it a bit more extensive, made a list of top breweries and see which hops and hop combos where used in top rated beers.
You would never guess which hop was nr 1

Definitely Triple Fuggle Daydream

 

[beervoid]

Definitely Triple Fuggle Daydream

I was meaning which hop

 

[Shenanigans]

I was meaning which hop

Which one then?