New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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SRJHops said:
Dgallo, have you ever tried fermcap or another anti foamer? I am having trouble with my blow-off system -- I am using Omega British Ale V and really like that it doesn't get hot. But it keeps blowing my fermenter lid off, even when I use a blow-off system!

It appears that fermcap is silicon and should be strained out, so that does not sound like a good option. Is there a safer food grade anti foamer available?
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FYI I use fermcap as I put 5.5 gal into my 6 gal carboy. I use 10 drops when the yeast is getting fairly active and no longer lose any yeast/wort through the blow-off. I am fairly certain that 10 or 15 drops does not meet the 200ppm limit. Also 1 drop in the flask when boiling starters wort eliminates all foaming.
 
Noob_Brewer said:
From a time perspective I totally agree. My gravity transfers are slow BIt they are uneventful and they work. I’ve practiced with water using CO2 from a tank to more actively push the beer to serving keg but not too comfortable yet with timing on releasing keg PRV so that it goes smoothly. That method is definitely quicker. Instead for now I’m content with cracking open a beer, doing other things around the house while it slowly transfers
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Just leave your Prv wide open when you do it(pull and twist it). The transfer will constantly be pushing air out of the prv and no air will enter.
 
JohnConnor said:
A little late on this one but Anthem hops in the dry hop. This always gives me this tropical almost the point of sunblock smelling aroma. Pretty crazy but I liked it.
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I’ve never brewed with it or even had a beer with it in there. I’ll have to check it out
 
SRJHops said:
Dgallo, have you ever tried fermcap or another anti foamer? I am having trouble with my blow-off system -- I am using Omega British Ale V and really like that it doesn't get hot. But it keeps blowing my fermenter lid off, even when I use a blow-off system!

It appears that fermcap is silicon and should be strained out, so that does not sound like a good option. Is there a safer food grade anti foamer available?
Click to expand...
I have about 1.25 gallons of head space in my fermenter. It gets to the top but has never blocked the blow off to cause an issue
 
I always water purge the keg before doing a closed transfer, but out of paranoia I purge the head space 3-4 times at 20-30 psi after. Do you all still purge the headspace just in case? Also, do you think 3-4 purges affect aroma by blowing off aromatics?
 
Dgallo said:
I have about 1.25 gallons of head space in my fermenter. It gets to the top but has never blocked the blow off to cause an issue
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I found some drops at Austin Homebrew that are vegetable oil, so I am going to give them a shot.

I have a 6.5 gallon carboy and brew 5 gallons. In addition to blowing off the lid twice, my current brew's krausen actually went all the way up the blow-off tube and into the water in the blow-off bucket! Hoping against hope the beer didn't get ruined...
 
SRJHops said:
I found some drops at Austin Homebrew that are vegetable oil, so I am going to give them a shot.

I have a 6.5 gallon carboy and brew 5 gallons. In addition to blowing off the lid twice, my current brew's krausen actually went all the way up the blow-off tube and into the water in the blow-off bucket! Hoping against hope the beer didn't get ruined...
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Gotcha. I brew 5 gallon batches in a 7.25 gallon ferm since I go 6 gallons into the fermenter for loss.

My only concern with ferm cap or an oil based anti foamed would be an carry over effect on head retention.
 
Dgallo said:
Gotcha. I brew 5 gallon batches in a 7.25 gallon ferm since I go 6 gallons into the fermenter for loss.

My only concern with ferm cap or an oil based anti foamed would be an carry over effect on head retention.
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My beer has a ways to go before I am 100% happy with it, but if there's one thing I have a lot of - it's head retention! So I can probably afford to give a little up. We'll see what happens!
 
Noob_Brewer said:
From a time perspective I totally agree. My gravity transfers are slow BIt they are uneventful and they work. I’ve practiced with water using CO2 from a tank to more actively push the beer to serving keg but not too comfortable yet with timing on releasing keg PRV so that it goes smoothly. That method is definitely quicker. Instead for now I’m content with cracking open a beer, doing other things around the house while it slowly transfers
Click to expand...
I will connect a hose on the gas post into a bucket of star San. Do a closed transfer and increase/decrease gas pressure on how fast/slow you want to move the beer. Not sure if that helps or the advice your looking for but it’s always worked for me.
 
secretlevel said:
Well done! What sort of flavors are you getting out of this beer? Did you hop on the hot side?

I'm a little afraid of this hop as I have a strong aversion to white wine type flavors, but I have had it once where I only got fruity tropical notes out of it!
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Just for some balance to all the pro Nelson posts, I don't like it all. In the beers I've had with it, it tastes like white wine to me - which is not what I want in a NEIPA. But of course, tastes vary...and to each his/her own...
 
SRJHops said:
Just for some balance to all the pro Nelson posts, I don't like it all. In the beers I've had with it, it tastes like white wine to me - which is not what I want in a NEIPA. But of course, tastes vary...and to each his/her own...
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That’s what it’s supposed to taste like so that’s good lol
 
SRJHops said:
Just for some balance to all the pro Nelson posts, I don't like it all. In the beers I've had with it, it tastes like white wine to me - which is not what I want in a NEIPA. But of course, tastes vary...and to each his/her own...
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Dgallo said:
That’s what it’s supposed to taste like so that’s good lol
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lol, I predominately get white wine from Nelson as well, but one of the big reasons why I love the hop is that it does seem very multidimensional in nature. Plays well with citra and other tropical hops for sure. When I kegged the citra/Idaho7/nelson brew (i posted it here a couple days ago after carbing for a week) I had a little left over so put the small bit of left over in a plastic bottle and force carbed it for a couple hours. My friend came over to "help" me taste it and while I got a ton of white wine from the nelson, my friend noticed a black pepper type of "spice" on the finish. So I looked it up and sure enough, beerconnoisseur.com mentions a "spicy black pepper" aspect from nelson that I couldn't detect! Over the course of the week of conditioning though, my friend said the spiciness was much less and he was getting a lot more of the white wine now.

In the specific beer that I posted though: Citra/Idaho7/Nelson (all equal parts on hot side and dry hopping), I think that the nelson brought the white wine to the party and its earthiness was amplified a little more than I expected because of the idaho 7 which I get the pine/resin as well as the slight earthy "black tea" from. The citra still stands out very well, but if I brew this again, I will just probably do a 2:2:1 ratio in dry hop with Citrus:Nelson:Idaho 7 to dial down the earthy/spice component and amplify the citrus/white wine part a little more. All in all - its still a great beer, very unique and multidimensional in my mind apart from the typical and more single dimensional citrus/tropical "juice bombs" we all know too commonly in NEIPAs. This is why Im having a blast home brewing too!

EDIT: I also have in the "cue" to brew a Citra/Nelson/Galaxy which will no doubt dial down the earthy/pine/spice and highlight the citrus/tropical/white wine profile. Looking forward to that one: just need to figure out the ratios/hop schedule for it.
 
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Never had a problem with janish filter and pressure transferring to a cbds but I’ve just had my first broken siphon with what I estimate to be a gallon left, maybe a tad more. Tried to recover and switch to gravity feed but even that didn’t work. My ferm fridge is actually wine fridge so my “crash” is typically only 43 or so, but like I said never a problem til today. Threw it in the (luckily) empty keezer to crash to a real temp of 31 and try again tomorrow
 
I say this every time I brew a NEIPA, but best beer out of the fermenter! Zero hop burn, can’t wait to see what the 1oz of Simcoe and Amarillo Cryo bring to the table!


IMG_9195.JPG
IMG_9197.JPG
 
BeerFst said:
Never had a problem with janish filter and pressure transferring to a cbds but I’ve just had my first broken siphon with what I estimate to be a gallon left, maybe a tad more. Tried to recover and switch to gravity feed but even that didn’t work. My ferm fridge is actually wine fridge so my “crash” is typically only 43 or so, but like I said never a problem til today. Threw it in the (luckily) empty keezer to crash to a real temp of 31 and try again tomorrow
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good luck man!
 
jturman35 said:
I say this every time I brew a NEIPA, but best beer out of the fermenter! Zero hop burn, can’t wait to see what the 1oz of Simcoe and Amarillo Cryo bring to the table!


View attachment 668232View attachment 668233
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Looking forward to seeing this bad boy in all its glory ie your best "beer porn" picture of your pint! no photoshopping allowed either! this isn't sports illustrated swim suit edition lol :)
 
BeerFst said:
Thanks! worst case I think I serve a single dry hopped and a double dry hopped. But the rate on the double is gonna be way higher than intended...also definitely need to take another crack at defeating the probe in that wine fridge
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Just label that extra gallon you get as an "experimental" beer to your peeps who drink your beer. If they like it, great! if not? it was just "experimental" lol
 
to switch the pace here, what temps are ya'll mashing at for the NEIPA style beer? Since Im new having only brewed 5 beers (5th is fermenting now), Ive been mashing at 152 target which is leaving me with some pretty fermentable wort and my beers (using A24 yeast) have all finished at 1.010-1.011 with just over 80% attenuation. The beers don't seem to be that dry, BUT I would like to build a little more body sweetness. My mash Ph Ive been targeting and hitting is 5.35. Ive also been using about 65% base malts (2row, GP, marris otter) around 35% remaining with oats (flaked and/or malted), white wheat, flaked barley and a little honey malt (8oz). So I think that my mash temp could be a little higher to help out build the body. What ya'll like to target for this style? 154? 156?
 
Noob_Brewer said:
to switch the pace here, what temps are ya'll mashing at for the NEIPA style beer? Since Im new having only brewed 5 beers (5th is fermenting now), Ive been mashing at 152 target which is leaving me with some pretty fermentable wort and my beers (using A24 yeast) have all finished at 1.010-1.011 with just over 80% attenuation. The beers don't seem to be that dry, BUT I would like to build a little more body sweetness. My mash Ph Ive been targeting and hitting is 5.35. Ive also been using about 65% base malts (2row, GP, marris otter) around 35% remaining with oats (flaked and/or malted), white wheat, flaked barley and a little honey malt (8oz). So I think that my mash temp could be a little higher to help out build the body. What ya'll like to target for this style? 154? 156?
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Last several all 154. The A24 batch(the one above) stuck at 1.02 despite the expected high attenuation. Meanwhile the A05 batch (four square) is supposed to be a poor attenuator, finished below 1.01. I’d probably drop down to 152 next time actually
 
Noob_Brewer said:
to switch the pace here, what temps are ya'll mashing at for the NEIPA style beer? Since Im new having only brewed 5 beers (5th is fermenting now), Ive been mashing at 152 target which is leaving me with some pretty fermentable wort and my beers (using A24 yeast) have all finished at 1.010-1.011 with just over 80% attenuation. The beers don't seem to be that dry, BUT I would like to build a little more body sweetness. My mash Ph Ive been targeting and hitting is 5.35. Ive also been using about 65% base malts (2row, GP, marris otter) around 35% remaining with oats (flaked and/or malted), white wheat, flaked barley and a little honey malt (8oz). So I think that my mash temp could be a little higher to help out build the body. What ya'll like to target for this style? 154? 156?
Click to expand...
Final gravity plays one of the biggest roles in building recipes, and how those recipes are perceived by the drinker. Most people have had that prototypical cloying hazy that finished at 1020 and has zero boil additions. However if it's a layered approach that we are taking with the hops, all of a sudden your 40 ibu boil addition isn't percieved nearly as bitter with all that residual sugar finishing at 1020.
With that being said I prefer a higher mash temp 154-156f mainly to enhance body/mouthfeel, as the residual sugar sweetness is heavily offset by my boil additions/dh/water chem etc.
 
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Loud Brewing said:
Final gravity plays one of the biggest roles in building recipes, and how those recipes are perceived by the drinker. Most people have had that prototypical cloying hazy that finished at 1020 and has zero boil additions. However if it's a layered approach that we are taking with the hops, all of a sudden your 40 ibu boil addition isn't percieved nearly as bitter with all that residual sugar finishing at 1020.
With that being said I prefer a higher mash temp 154-156f mainly to enhance body/mouthfeel, as the residual sugar sweetness is heavily offset by my boil additions/dh/water chem etc.
Click to expand...


I am in the 154-156 range for the last 5 batches, i used to be a 152/153 masher but in my earlier competitions the judges commented on it lacking malt flavor. So changed to higher temps. When using Loki for the first time in my last batch mashing at 156, i crashed the yeast out at 1016 but i think it would have gone lower if i let it go another day, but i did not want to dry it out that much.

Side note this batch is on tap now and i used Nelson/Rakau (2:1) for hot & cold editions and its my new fav, absolute juice when paired with the loki esters. Loving it!
 
Noob_Brewer said:
lol, I predominately get white wine from Nelson as well, but one of the big reasons why I love the hop is that it does seem very multidimensional in nature. Plays well with citra and other tropical hops for sure. When I kegged the citra/Idaho7/nelson brew (i posted it here a couple days ago after carbing for a week) I had a little left over so put the small bit of left over in a plastic bottle and force carbed it for a couple hours. My friend came over to "help" me taste it and while I got a ton of white wine from the nelson, my friend noticed a black pepper type of "spice" on the finish. So I looked it up and sure enough, beerconnoisseur.com mentions a "spicy black pepper" aspect from nelson that I couldn't detect! Over the course of the week of conditioning though, my friend said the spiciness was much less and he was getting a lot more of the white wine now.

In the specific beer that I posted though: Citra/Idaho7/Nelson (all equal parts on hot side and dry hopping), I think that the nelson brought the white wine to the party and its earthiness was amplified a little more than I expected because of the idaho 7 which I get the pine/resin as well as the slight earthy "black tea" from. The citra still stands out very well, but if I brew this again, I will just probably do a 2:2:1 ratio in dry hop with Citrus:Nelson:Idaho 7 to dial down the earthy/spice component and amplify the citrus/white wine part a little more. All in all - its still a great beer, very unique and multidimensional in my mind apart from the typical and more single dimensional citrus/tropical "juice bombs" we all know too commonly in NEIPAs. This is why Im having a blast home brewing too!

EDIT: I also have in the "cue" to brew a Citra/Nelson/Galaxy which will no doubt dial down the earthy/pine/spice and highlight the citrus/tropical/white wine profile. Looking forward to that one: just need to figure out the ratios/hop schedule for it.
Click to expand...
Nelson in my opinion is probably one of my top 3 favs as far as what it brings to the table with aroma and flavor as well as what it brings when paired with the right hops...I think you will be very happy when you pair it with galaxy and citra...possible my best 2 new Englands I've ever made were done with those 3 hops together...in 2 different hoping schedules and both times they came out dynamite...similar but also different...great combination for sure...
 
nick sekerak said:
I am in the 154-156 range for the last 5 batches, i used to be a 152/153 masher but in my earlier competitions the judges commented on it lacking malt flavor. So changed to higher temps. When using Loki for the first time in my last batch mashing at 156, i crashed the yeast out at 1016 but i think it would have gone lower if i let it go another day, but i did not want to dry it out that much.

Side note this batch is on tap now and i used Nelson/Rakau (2:1) for hot & cold editions and its my new fav, absolute juice when paired with the loki esters. Loving it!
Click to expand...

I really don't think that NEIPA is supposed to have malt flavors at all... I got the same thing on my scoresheet once and I was a bit pissed. If I add maltier grains, the beer will be brown and I'll lose points on it looking oxidized.

I think some judges are pretty old school so they rank beers like an old school traditional IPA...
 
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There's a difference between higher FG with some residual sugars(which aren't really that sweet) vs actual malt flavor, like munich or caramel sweetness or crackery/bready flavors from other malts. Maybe they just didn't think it had the 'fullness' it should and that's how they chose to word their critique. Or maybe they really were just talking out of their asses. I would take any critique with a grain of salt though, BJCP judge or not. Taste is subjective and everyone's palate is different.
 
Loud Brewing said:
Final gravity plays one of the biggest roles in building recipes, and how those recipes are perceived by the drinker. Most people have had that prototypical cloying hazy that finished at 1020 and has zero boil additions. However if it's a layered approach that we are taking with the hops, all of a sudden your 40 ibu boil addition isn't percieved nearly as bitter with all that residual sugar finishing at 1020.
With that being said I prefer a higher mash temp 154-156f mainly to enhance body/mouthfeel, as the residual sugar sweetness is heavily offset by my boil additions/dh/water chem etc.
Click to expand...
Ok speaking of perceived bitterness, do you @Loud Brewing or anyone else here put any stock in the IBU/SG ratio? Seems that perceived bitterness is determined by multiple factors and not just SG alone ie mash temp seems to play a role. How do ya’ll monitor/use the IBU/SG ratio when developing NEIPAs if you use this metric at all?
 
Noob_Brewer said:
Ok speaking of perceived bitterness, do you @Loud Brewing or anyone else here put any stock in the IBU/SG ratio? Seems that perceived bitterness is determined by multiple factors and not just SG alone ie mash temp seems to play a role. How do ya’ll monitor/use the IBU/SG ratio when developing NEIPAs if you use this metric at all?
Click to expand...
I mean I care about the bu/gu ratio. I aim for .5 for NEIPA .8 - 1.0 for west coast ipas. Perception is something different but I’m a firm believer that the ratio should matter in recipe planning and based on your system and process
 
Dgallo said:
I mean I care about the bu/gu ratio. I aim for .5 for NEIPA .8 - 1.0 for west coast ipas. Perception is something different but I’m a firm believer that the ratio should matter in recipe planning and based on your system and process
Click to expand...
Exactly...if you plan accordingly and formulate a sound recipe you really don't even need to care about that ...that ratio is only as good as a number...if you know your system and know your style and how u typically perform from grain to glass...it really a rough draft on what you end up with...its a potential calculated guess... does it account for higher or lower gravities than expected? ..a program is only as good as its creator...if they don't factor in temps...grain types and yeast styles into that program its just a rough draft into what you end up with...I'd say its a good place to start rather than a guide to the galaxy
 
I was planning on brewing this in 2 weeks but can't seem to find galaxy hops anywhere! Seems like they were popular this year Would using Citra Mosaic and Amarillo be a good plan?
 
Noob_Brewer said:
Ok speaking of perceived bitterness, do you @Loud Brewing or anyone else here put any stock in the IBU/SG ratio? Seems that perceived bitterness is determined by multiple factors and not just SG alone ie mash temp seems to play a role. How do ya’ll monitor/use the IBU/SG ratio when developing NEIPAs if you use this metric at all?
Click to expand...

It's good to have a target but ultimately, especially with NEIPAs, it is really a shot in the dark as to where your IBUs will end up, IMO. There is a ton of conflicting information on what does and doesn't impart perceived bitterness in a beer (temperature, contact time, gravity etc). I think the goal should be for you to not go too high or too low for any style without getting too caught up in the number. That usually means brewing the same recipe or style multiple times and adjusting things until you hit your personal sweet spot.
 
BeerFst said:
YVH has plenty.

https://www.yakimavalleyhops.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=galaxy&Submit=
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Thumbs up for YVH. I like to support my LHBS, and buy my grain, yeast, cleaning supplies, and most of my brewing equipment from them. But I have switched to mail order from YVH for my hops. They ship RAPIDLY, and even with the shipping costs, their hops are less expensive than my LHBS. If that's not enough, YVH has more kinds available and they take great care of sealing them up so they stay fresh. (Hey YVH, send me a coupon for this endorsement, LOL!)
 
YVH is the Amazon of hops. Shipping is 2 day, every time. You can order your dry hop bill after your brew day when you unexpectantly dump the last of your Citra into your whirlpool.

This year's Galaxy and Citra have been great. About to try 2019 Simcoe.
 

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