New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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brewkinger said:
Checking back in at the 14 day ferment point. You were not kidding about that thick krasuen. I poked a sanitized hydrometer at the top and it sounded like I was hitting the bark on a tree. Wierd!!!
Website says it is an example of a true "top cropping yeast" and so now I know what that looks like.:)

Gonna sanitize a spoon next weekend, scoop and entry path and add dry hop addition #1
Click to expand...

If you add a few drops of FermcapS, it will knock the krausen down in a few days tops. I had a krausen threatening to hit the blowoff hose on my last batch. I add a few drops of FermcapS and within a few days, the krausen was completely gone.
 
Same base recipe for the most part.
No Honey malt
Only crystal malt I use is about 8 oz. of C-40
I use a couple ounces of midnight wheat to get to 12 SRM

Same water. Same hopping rate.

I used 1056 though instead of conan. I tried something like this one other time with conan and I felt it came off sweeter than I wanted. So, figured I would try 1056 this time.

Not sure what to expect exactly yet.... just starting to play around with it. But, yeah - I want to end up with something like a NE IPA.... but an Amber Ale. The challenge I have found with a couple attempts is that NEIPA's come off as "sweeter" due to the types of hops used, and the late hopping. That can get away from you on an amber ale that is already sweeter due to caramel malts. So, we will see how this one comes out and go from there.
 
Bottled my batch yesterday. First time not using Gelatin in a while. Less hazy than I thought. Taste was good.
Looking forward to trying once carbed.

IMG_1049 - Copy.JPG
 
Hey I have some questions about water. It looks like you use mostly RO water and you also use B'run water, (not sure what that is).

I don't have a filtration system, so I'd be buying water at the store. I can get distilled water, and I think I can buy RO filtered water as well... not sure.
I was planning on buying Gypsum and Calcium Carbonate and using that to treat the water.

However, I will be doing a partial mash, using about 7 lbs of LME and 4 total lbs of grain. I've heard that with LME a lot of the minerals are already in the LME. How do you think I should proceed?

For hops I will most likely be doing 8oz of Mosaic and 1oz of El Dorado. I had an IPA that used the Mosaic/ El Dorado combo that was really good. Thanks.
 
Dan_K said:
Hey I have some questions about water. It looks like you use mostly RO water and you also use B'run water, (not sure what that is).

I don't have a filtration system, so I'd be buying water at the store. I can get distilled water, and I think I can buy RO filtered water as well... not sure.
I was planning on buying Gypsum and Calcium Carbonate and using that to treat the water.

However, I will be doing a partial mash, using about 7 lbs of LME and 4 total lbs of grain. I've heard that with LME a lot of the minerals are already in the LME. How do you think I should proceed?

For hops I will most likely be doing 8oz of Mosaic and 1oz of El Dorado. I had an IPA that used the Mosaic/ El Dorado combo that was really good. Thanks.
Click to expand...

RO water provides a blank slate with no minerals, that is the main advantage. Users simply add the minerals desired and off they go.

Bru'n water is a an Excel spreadsheet program for computing water chemistry that is designed by fellow HBT user mabrungard. Look it up online and download and you will find it helpful once you gain knowledge on the subject.

Distilled water works as well and similar to other water sources in that you need to know the mineral contents and then add stuff to get it to where you want.

Gypsum, calcium chloride, pickling/canning salt, epsom salt are all good salts to have.
88% lactic acid is needed for adjusting pH (there are others available like phosphoric, citric)
Calcium carbonate is a little trickier in that it adds alkalinity to water and is very insoluble.

Check out the brew science sub forum and you will have a start at understanding this water chemistry "rabbit hole"
 
Dan_K said:
Hey I have some questions about water. It looks like you use mostly RO water and you also use B'run water, (not sure what that is).



I don't have a filtration system, so I'd be buying water at the store. I can get distilled water, and I think I can buy RO filtered water as well... not sure.

I was planning on buying Gypsum and Calcium Carbonate and using that to treat the water.



However, I will be doing a partial mash, using about 7 lbs of LME and 4 total lbs of grain. I've heard that with LME a lot of the minerals are already in the LME. How do you think I should proceed?



For hops I will most likely be doing 8oz of Mosaic and 1oz of El Dorado. I had an IPA that used the Mosaic/ El Dorado combo that was really good. Thanks.
Click to expand...


I don't have a RO system. I usually do half and half mash and sparge. Half spring water and half filtered water. I don't know the water numbers of the top of my head, but I have been extremely happy on how my beers have turned out.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1465944333.456976.jpg
 
Dan_K said:
Hey I have some questions about water. It looks like you use mostly RO water and you also use B'run water, (not sure what that is).

I don't have a filtration system, so I'd be buying water at the store. I can get distilled water, and I think I can buy RO filtered water as well... not sure.
I was planning on buying Gypsum and Calcium Carbonate and using that to treat the water.

However, I will be doing a partial mash, using about 7 lbs of LME and 4 total lbs of grain. I've heard that with LME a lot of the minerals are already in the LME. How do you think I should proceed?

For hops I will most likely be doing 8oz of Mosaic and 1oz of El Dorado. I had an IPA that used the Mosaic/ El Dorado combo that was really good. Thanks.
Click to expand...

To be honest, if you are doing partial mash with the bulk coming from LME.... I think the simple thing I would suggest is to simply go with the recommended suggestions I have for tsp's into RO water.... However, Cut them all in half to compensate for the fact that your beer is primarily extract.

When it comes to water, if you are going to error, make the error on the low side of additions - not the high side. You can always add more later. Hell, you can even add more to a finished beer. You can't take it out once it is there though.
 
val214 that is a great looking beer!

Braufessor I'm assuming that your first dry hop is meant to be made during active fermentation but on the tail end or so. I'm curious how you guys are judging the timing of this. I did a 3gal batch with 1318, no starter, fermenting around 65 degrees and now at the 48hr mark I am past the peak of fermentation, at least judging by bubbling rate (I realize that is not isn't always correct but often seems to be). The beer itself is incredibly opaque. Should I still be waiting another day or three to dry hop? I fear missing that window when the hops will make sweet love with the yeast.
thanks!
 
JJ900 said:
val214 that is a great looking beer!

Braufessor I'm assuming that your first dry hop is meant to be made during active fermentation but on the tail end or so. I'm curious how you guys are judging the timing of this. I did a 3gal batch with 1318, no starter, fermenting around 65 degrees and now at the 48hr mark I am past the peak of fermentation, at least judging by bubbling rate (I realize that is not isn't always correct but often seems to be). The beer itself is incredibly opaque. Should I still be waiting another day or three to dry hop? I fear missing that window when the hops will make sweet love with the yeast.
thanks!
Click to expand...

I am not super precise or anything on that addition. Sometime day 4-6 usually. I am not sure where I am usually at in regard to gravity. My guess is 80-90% done.
 
abbysdad2006 said:
That looks fantastic!! What recipe did you use for that one?
Click to expand...


Pretty close to the original. I for got about the honey malt.
I don't have a water profile. I used half spring water and half filtered water.

Mashed at 150* for 70min (lost track of time).

Grain bill 6gal batch to account for the hops absorption.

41.4% 2 Row
41.4% Maris Otter
6.9% flaked oats
3.4% Flaked wheat
3.4% Flaked Barley

Hop schedule

1oz Eldo @60
1oz Citra @15
.50oz Eldo @15
1oz Simcoe @10
2oz Citra @ 10

Whirlpool @185 for 30min

.50oz Eldo
1oz simcoe
1oz citra

1st Dry hopped @ 7th day
2oz simcoe
2oz. Citra

2nd dry hop @ 12th day
2oz simcoe
2oz Citra

Kegged on the 16th day.

Used second gen omega Conan yeast

pic of the beer
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1466029124.716730.jpg
 
rosscoh said:
@Braufessor that has honey malt in it? That color is amazing!
Click to expand...

Yeah.... basically same recipe as initial post. But, upped the OG a bit.
11 pounds base malt
1 pound flaked oats
1/2 pound of wheat and flaked barley
4 ounces each of Honey malt and flaked wheat.

That was the last pint or so left in the dry hop keg.... so, probably more cloudy than usual and the sun always helps it "glow" as well.
 
val214 said:
Pretty close to the original. I for got about the honey malt.
I don't have a water profile. I used half spring water and half filtered water.

Mashed at 150* for 70min (lost track of time).

Grain bill 6gal batch to account for the hops absorption.

41.4% 2 Row
41.4% Maris Otter
6.9% flaked oats
3.4% Flaked wheat
3.4% Flaked Barley

Hop schedule

1oz Eldo @60
1oz Citra @15
.50oz Eldo @15
1oz Simcoe @10
2oz Citra @ 10

Whirlpool @185 for 30min

.50oz Eldo
1oz simcoe
1oz citra

1st Dry hopped @ 7th day
2oz simcoe
2oz. Citra

2nd dry hop @ 12th day
2oz simcoe
2oz Citra

Kegged on the 16th day.

Used second gen omega Conan yeast

pic of the beer
View attachment 358724
Click to expand...

Oh man!! That looks amazing!! I can't wait to try one of these!! I have a question, what gives it that glowing orange color?
 
Perhaps a dumb question, but you still mill/crush the flaked wheat, oats, and barley right?
 
abbysdad2006 said:
Oh man!! That looks amazing!! I can't wait to try one of these!! I have a question, what gives it that glowing orange color?
Click to expand...

In regard to color..... the honest answer is simply "lighting." It has a huge role in what a beer looks like. My beers are always right around 5 (give or take a bit) for SRM. Can't speak for everyone else, but probably in the 4-7 range for most.

The other thing that can influence quite a bit in addition to the lighting, is the amount of material in suspension. That gives a the light more or less to play off of.

If you want to see the difference that lighting can make.... check out post 292.... those are 2 pictures of the same glass of beer. Just different light.

Ultimately, though, the taste is what matters:)
 
Regarding milling flaked, I've been told not to and that you don't need to as there is plenty of surface area exposed to the wort.
 
Dan_K said:
Perhaps a dumb question, but you still mill/crush the flaked wheat, oats, and barley right?
Click to expand...

I do..... Not because it "needs" it, but because I have forgotten to throw it in the mash on more than one occasion when I kept it separate. So, now, I just throw it all in the same bucket and run it all through the mill and keep it all together.

It does not "need" to be milled. But, running it through a mill doesn't hurt anything either to my knowledge.
 
Braufessor said:
Warming and dry hop should help get a few more points. If it does end up stalling at 1.018 or higher.... I would definitely pitch some actively fermenting 1056 or similar to finish it out. 1.014-1.018 is borderline. 1.014 and under and I definitely would not worry about it.

Can't emphasize enough for those using conan for the first time..... It is a great yeast, but, like others ... that first generation can be sluggish. I brew 30-40 batches or more a year with conan. EVERY batch finishes at 1.010-1.012. I had the same struggles that others have mentioned though when I took a vial or smack pack (with a starter) and went right into a 1.055+ IPA to start.... ended up with that 1.016 kind of thing happening almost every time. In my opinion, the best way to use conan is this:

*New vial/pack...... brew a 1.040 blonde ale. Low hops, no dry hops.
*Make a 1L starter 12-18 hours before you need to pitch it.
*Pitch the entire, actively fermenting starter to your blonde ale
*Days 1-3 temps start around 62-64 and climb to 66-68.
*Day 3-4 let temps go to 68-72 to finish out.
*Day 10-14 range, cold crash or let yeast settle out and transfer to keg (bottle)
*When getting ready to keg/bottle - put 5-6 jars and lids in star san.... half pint or pint size mason jars (I like the plastic, reusable lids you can buy for them).
*Leave about 1-2 pints of beer in the fermenter.
*Swirl up the beer and yeast in the fermenter to get everything in suspension.
*Take jars out of starsan... pour yeast slurry into jars... about 75% full or so.
*(I use bottling buckets and SS Brewbuckets for fermenters - they have spigots, so this is a very easy step... might need to formulate your own strategy if you use something else... for instance, make sure lip of carboy is very clean (isopropyl alcohol for instance ) if you are pouring from a carboy).
*Fill jars quickly and pull lids out of star san and cap.
*Put in fridge.
*When it comes time to brew your IPA's..... take out jar, dunk in star san several times. Get starter vessel and wort ready. *Decant most of what is in jar - leave enough to swirl yeast cake back up and dump into your starter vessel. Make a 1L starter 12-18 hours before pitch time.
*Pitch entire, actively fermenting starter within 12-18 hours of making it.
*Use 5 of your 6 jars on IPA's (or whatever). Jar #6 goes back in another blonde ale(or lawnmower beer of choice).
*Repeat.

Since I have started doing this, I have probably had 75-100 consecutive beers with conan finish at 1.010-1.012. Most were probably in the 1.055-1.065 range. Occasionally a bit higher... but I am just not a fan of 7-8% IPA's. But, I have seen no fall off at the 1.065 range either.
Click to expand...

Gonna brew your blonde next weekend. This is what I harvested from the first starter I made. Should I make a new starter with both jars and pitch the entire starter or would I pitch the contents of the jars without making a new starter?
I will be brewing a 2.5 or 3 gallon batch.

IMG_1053 - Copy.JPG
 
brew703 said:
Gonna brew your blonde next weekend. This is what I harvested from the first starter I made. Should I make a new starter with both jars and pitch the entire starter or would I pitch the contents of the jars without making a new starter?
I will be brewing a 2.5 or 3 gallon batch.
Click to expand...

I'd always make a starter when reusing yeast, for yeast health, viability etc. if you brew a blonde or even brau's NE style recipe here one jar should be enough. What you have is about what I get when I decent from a starter, stopped washing yeast after an infection killed two beers, and it's always been plenty. If you brew a bigger beer say 1.060 and above you'll Still start with what you have then just step that starter up into another one.
 
olotti said:
I'd always make a starter when reusing yeast, for yeast health, viability etc. if you brew a blonde or even brau's NE style recipe here one jar should be enough. What you have is about what I get when I decent from a starter, stopped washing yeast after an infection killed two beers, and it's always been plenty. If you brew a bigger beer say 1.060 and above you'll Still start with what you have then just step that starter up into another one.
Click to expand...

The starter I made was for Brau's NE IPA. Guess what I will do is keep one jar and use the other for a starter and use that for the blonde. We'll see how that works.
 
I would decant off most of the liquid from one jar. I would use 1 jar to make a 1L starter 12-18 hours before pitching and pitch the entire starter (don't decant the starter).
 
Found a new brewery in Nashville yesterday who is brewing the NE style ipa and doing a terrrific job. Very similar taste to the recipe here. They also do a very interesting west coast ipa that had a clean yeast but used the same hops that we are using here and they secondary it on toasted coconut for about a week. Insanely good! It is now on my very short list to try and brew. They were using 30lbs of coconut in there 4bbl system. Thought I would share the unique twist I found to this style beer. Food for thought.
 
On second thought I would call it a new England style ipa with a clean yeast not a west coast style It still had that soft juicy mouth feel with the fruity hops that went perfectly with the coconut. Soooo good!
 
When I add honey malt the beer just gets way too dark. Any suggestions @braufessor? I'm obsessed with the lighter color beer that looks like orange juice.

52% Pale 2-Row - US
15% White Wheat - US
14% Flaked Oats - US
6% Carapils - Dextrine Malt - US
1% Honey Malt - CA

10 min boil additions for higher gravity:
6% Dry Malt Extract - ExtraLight
6% Corn Sugar (Dextrose) - US

Using 1318 and a fully temp controlled fermentation. Mashed at 154.

Primo water treated to about 160ppm chloride and 90 sulfate. Shooting for mash PH of 5.4

Doing first dry hop at peak ferm. Second after closed transfer to filtered dry hopping keg.

Should I remove the DME and the corn sugar at the ten min mark? Have a feeling the DME isn't helping with the color I'm after due to potential malliard reaction.
 
surgical_ass said:
Found a new brewery in Nashville yesterday who is brewing the NE style ipa and doing a terrrific job. Very similar taste to the recipe here. They also do a very interesting west coast ipa that had a clean yeast but used the same hops that we are using here and they secondary it on toasted coconut for about a week. Insanely good! It is now on my very short list to try and brew. They were using 30lbs of coconut in there 4bbl system. Thought I would share the unique twist I found to this style beer. Food for thought.
Click to expand...

What brewery?
 
rosscoh said:
When I add honey malt the beer just gets way too dark. Any suggestions @braufessor? I'm obsessed with the lighter color beer that looks like orange juice.

52% Pale 2-Row - US
15% White Wheat - US
14% Flaked Oats - US
6% Carapils - Dextrine Malt - US
1% Honey Malt - CA

10 min boil additions for higher gravity:
6% Dry Malt Extract - ExtraLight
6% Corn Sugar (Dextrose) - US

Using 1318 and a fully temp controlled fermentation. Mashed at 154.

Primo water treated to about 160ppm chloride and 90 sulfate. Shooting for mash PH of 5.4

Doing first dry hop at peak ferm. Second after closed transfer to filtered dry hopping keg.

Should I remove the DME and the corn sugar at the ten min mark? Have a feeling the DME isn't helping with the color I'm after due to potential malliard reaction.
Click to expand...

Just my opinion but if you want that lighter colored beer ditch the honey malt and dime and then just up the 2 row. Idk I've used honey malt, c10 in diff recipes I really don't know if they ever come through in such small amounts since really it's all about the hops. Mashing high like you are in the 154 range will leave a lot more body plus the chloride you should be good there.
 
Pretty sure there is no way a 4 ounces of honey malt is making the beer too dark. It is only 27L. My bet is that the darkness is coming from the DME perhaps??? Even the lightest DME is darker than you would think in the end.

I use about 4 ounces of honey malt in all of mine and they are never dark.

I guess the other thing I would wonder about is why add 6% carapils and 6% Corn sugar..... seems like they are just doing battle with each other. I guess, personally, I would just turn the carpools, DME and Corn Sugar all into 2 Row or Golden Promise. Or, perhaps, a bit less of the base grain and keep the corn sugar if you want the beer to be more fermentable.

Otherwise, I think it looks pretty good.
 
@Braufessor
My LHBS was out of American 2-row, Golden Promise and American Wheat so I had to adjust on the fly and made a British malt IPA 10 # UK 2-row, 4# Halcyon, .5# torrified wheat... For British Eyes Only IPA (nod to Arrested Development) with Citra, Centennial and Chinook - I like it. Definitely hopped like a west coast but a good beer. Chinook adds a spicy character which is nice and a hint of grapefruit. This is very different from my first Citra, Amarillo, Centennial IPA based on your recipe which I like a little better but I'm happy with this one. I just wanted to give you an update!

image.jpg
 
rosscoh said:
When I add honey malt the beer just gets way too dark. Any suggestions @braufessor? I'm obsessed with the lighter color beer that looks like orange juice.



52% Pale 2-Row - US

15%White Wheat - US

14%Flaked Oats - US

6%Carapils - Dextrine Malt - US

1%Honey Malt - CA



10 min boil additions for higher gravity:

6%Dry Malt Extract - ExtraLight

6%Corn Sugar (Dextrose) - US



Using 1318 and a fully temp controlled fermentation. Mashed at 154.



Primo water treated to about 160ppm chloride and 90 sulfate. Shooting for mash PH of 5.4



Doing first dry hop at peak ferm. Second after closed transfer to filtered dry hopping keg.



Should I remove the DME and the corn sugar at the ten min mark? Have a feeling the DME isn't helping with the color I'm after due to potential malliard reaction.
Click to expand...


Other thing I can think of is scorching during the boil or if it's getting slightly oxidized if you bottle.
 
surgical_ass said:
Found a new brewery in Nashville yesterday who is brewing the NE style ipa and doing a terrrific job. Very similar taste to the recipe here. They also do a very interesting west coast ipa that had a clean yeast but used the same hops that we are using here and they secondary it on toasted coconut for about a week. Insanely good! It is now on my very short list to try and brew. They were using 30lbs of coconut in there 4bbl system. Thought I would share the unique twist I found to this style beer. Food for thought.
Click to expand...


A couple breweries make coconut IPAs in Columbus and they are decidedly west coast. The coconut goes well with tropical hops for sure. Wish I liked coconut now.
 
brewski09 said:
A couple breweries make coconut IPAs in Columbus and they are decidedly west coast. The coconut goes well with tropical hops for sure. Wish I liked coconut now.
Click to expand...

I can't stand to eat it. I think it's a texture thing but I love the smell and the taste it gives off. If that makes any sense. Will be brewing this very soon
 

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