New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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pearljam1984

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i finish at 73 with 1318, but start at 68 for 2 days, then bump it up 1 degree per day. I personally wouldn't dump it, even if it tastes weird now. I have found most beers taste weird early on, and 3 weeks after bottling they magically seem to be just fine... maybe not optimal, but perfectly drinkable.
I wouldn’t dump it. Give it 4-5 weeks. I think they are better at 4-6 weeks rather than 2-3. i find 2-3 un-drinkable at times. It improves greatly in the keg at room temp.
 

hazy79

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SPECIFICATIONS:
OG 1.055
FG 1.011
IBU's...... 30-35 from bittering, not sure of utilization from all the late addition hops. Perception is much more than 35 IBU's though.
SRM 4
ABV 5.3% - This is definitely more of a "session" IPA - but, the heavy late hops and full body really make it drink like a regular IPA without the 6-8%+ abv of a lot of the popular IPA's and DIPA's

Edit: For those looking for recent versions, updates, and my most recent/current version of how I am making this beer - you will find that information in post #1418 in this thread. The original recipe is good as is... but I have shifted some of my practices, and also simplified/clarified some things in this original post..... Please check out #1418 for updates: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost...postcount=1418

**I brew 6.5 gallons of finished beer (post boil)..... this allows me to leave some hop/trub behind in boil kettle and fermenter and get 5 gallons eventually into serving keg. If you finish with 5 gallons post boil, you might want to adjust hops down a bit.
6.5 gallons post boil
5.75 gallons into fermenter
5 gallons into keg

GRAIN BILL:
% and the actual amt. I use for 6.5 gallons @ 84% mash efficiency (your efficiency may vary)
44% Rahr 2 Row ( 5 lbs)
44% Golden Promise (or similar.... Pearl, Maris Otter) (5 lbs)
4% Flaked Oats (1/2 lb)
4% Flaked Barley 1/2 lb)
2% Wheat (1/4 lb)
2% Honey Malt (1/4 lb)

60 minute mash @152-154)

HOPS:
**60 Min. = .75 oz Warrior
**Flame Out = 1oz. each of Citra/Galaxy/Mosaic
**Chill to 160 or below and add 1oz. each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Stop chiller and allow hops to sit for 30 minute or so. Stir up/whirlpool wort every 5 minutes or so.
Chill to 62 and let hops settle out as much as possible. Transfer wort to fermenter. I tend to leave behind .75 gallons of true and hops (this is why I brew 6.5 gallon batch).

**Dry Hop #1- At day 5-7 - add the following to primary fermenter:
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy

**Dry Hop #2 - Around day 12, transfer to CO2 purged dry hopping keg with
1.5 oz. Citra
1 oz. Mosaic
.5 oz. Galaxy
(I use this strategy: http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html )

Day 14-15 - Jump from Dry hop keg to serving keg. Force carbonate to moderate/moderate-low.

WATER PROFILE:
I use 80% RO water, 20% Hard (Carbon Filtered) tap water in Mash, 87% RO in sparge water:
I add per gallon of mash and sparge water -
Gypsum = .2 grams/gallon
CaCl = .6 grams/gallon
Epsom = .1 gram/gallon
Canning Salt = .2 grams/gallon
Lactic Acid = .5ml/gallon mash, .25 ml/gallon sparge ( I am using 5 gallons mash water and 6 gallons sparge water).

Using B'run Water

Ca = 96
Mg = 12
Na = 28
Sulfate = 67
Chloride = 128
Bicarbonate = 70

Mash pH = 5.37-5.42
Final runnings pH = 5.60
Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45
Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35

Water Profile - the simple solution:
***Many people ask about a more general guide to water because they do not know what their own water profile is, or they have not made the jump to using a water profile software. I use B'run water, and the above profile. However, if you just want to get in the ballpark of something "similar" to start with..... The simplest solution is this:
100% RO water for both mash and sparge.
Per 5 gallons of mash water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum
Per 5 gallons of sparge water: 1 tsp of CaCl + 1/2 tsp Gypsum

This should bring you in around 140 Chloride and 80 Sulfate.

This does not take into account trying to get Na or Mg numbers. It ignores bicarbonate and as it is 100% RO, it should bring your mash pH in around 5.41 without any acid addition.

ROUGH estimate of grams to tsp of minerals:
1/4 tsp Gypsum = .9 grams
1/4 tsp CaCl = 1.1 grams
1/4 tsp Epsom Salt = 1.3 grams
1/4 tsp Canning Salt = 1.8 grams


FERMENTATION
Yeast - Conan(vermont IPA), 1318 is also a yeast many choose to use in beers like this.
I tend to start fermentation off around 62 at let it free rise to 66-68 degrees through the first 3 days or so of fermentation. At that point, I like to move it somewhere that it can finish off in the 68-70-72 range.

OTHER THOUGHTS/NOTES:

I keep almost everything the same in brewing IPA's to this style. However, I do mix up the hops. I always bitter with warrior, and always use 4 sets of 3 ounce additions at Flameout, Whirlpool, Dry Hop #1, Dry Hop #2....... but, not always the same hops. I sometimes do 100% Citra. I sometimes do equal parts of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for all 4 additions (Grapefruit!!!!), I some times do equal parts (1.5 ounces) citra/mosaic at all 4 additions... But always the same basic amount, in the same basic schedule.

The water is important for getting this "style" of IPA. It is important to go higher on chloride and lower on gypsum (I think). I also ...... and I don't know exactly why...... have had more success including some my high bicarbonate water and using lactic acid to shoot for pH in the 5.4 range (as opposed to a lower pH).

I have found this strategy to get very much in the ball park of these types of beers...... Hazy, full bodied, juicy/fruity hops. :mug:




Braufessor thanks so much for sharing the knowledge and recipe, much respect! I have a noob question. I'm about to brew my first batch of this and I'm somewhat new to brewing. I'm using beer smith as my brewing software and have tried to scale the hop utilization for a 15 gallon batch. I'm still not sure if my numbers are correct.

I would add 3 oz. of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for 4 additions, but if I were to plug those amounts into Beer Smith my IBU's shoot through the roof. I know with this style of IPA that is something I'm trying to avoid. Is there any advice for the amount of hops for 15 gallon batch?
 
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Braufessor

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Braufessor thanks so much for sharing the knowledge and recipe, much respect! I have a noob question. I'm about to brew my first batch of this and I'm somewhat new to brewing. I'm using beer smith as my brewing software and have tried to scale the hop utilization for a 15 gallon batch. I'm still not sure if my numbers are correct.

I would add 3 oz. of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for 4 additions, but if I were to plug those amounts into Beer Smith my IBU's shoot through the roof. I know with this style of IPA that is something I'm trying to avoid. Is there any advice for the amount of hops for 15 gallon batch?
If you are adding all of it after flame out and once chilling has started, you really should not get a lot of IBU/bitterness from it - no matter what the calculation says. I don't brew 15 gallon batches, but, I guess I would maybe start with something like this:
1.5 ounce warrior at 60 minutes
5 ounces each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy in a single flame out addition once you get it chilled under 160-170 range.
5 ounces each in single dry hop on day 2-3 of fermentation.
 

Sbe2

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Braufessor thanks so much for sharing the knowledge and recipe, much respect! I have a noob question. I'm about to brew my first batch of this and I'm somewhat new to brewing. I'm using beer smith as my brewing software and have tried to scale the hop utilization for a 15 gallon batch. I'm still not sure if my numbers are correct.

I would add 3 oz. of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy for 4 additions, but if I were to plug those amounts into Beer Smith my IBU's shoot through the roof. I know with this style of IPA that is something I'm trying to avoid. Is there any advice for the amount of hops for 15 gallon batch?
If you go deep into the beer smith preferences, you can change the hop utilization settings for flame out, whirlpool, and dry hop additions.

It is somewhere in the preferences, but where exactly idk.
 

hazy79

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If you are adding all of it after flame out and once chilling has started, you really should not get a lot of IBU/bitterness from it - no matter what the calculation says. I don't brew 15 gallon batches, but, I guess I would maybe start with something like this:
1.5 ounce warrior at 60 minutes
5 ounces each of Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy in a single flame out addition once you get it chilled under 160-170 range.
5 ounces each in single dry hop on day 2-3 of fermentation.
Thanks for prompt response Brau, I will definitely go with your recommendation. I’m well experienced in horticultural sciences, and now venturing into brewing, my two favorite things. I will be doing this on a 30 gallon HERMS Spike Brewing system. I will post results once all is said and done. [emoji482][emoji1479]
 
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hazy79

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If you go deep into the beer smith preferences, you can change the hop utilization settings for flame out, whirlpool, and dry hop additions.

It is somewhere in the preferences, but where exactly idk.
Thanks Sbe2 I will be digging deep into the settings as you suggest. I did add all the hops in accordance to respective schedule, but it throws the IBU’s way off due to pre-inputed, steep/whirpool, flameout calculations, have to find where those can be changed.
 
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Gustatorian

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Mercene hop oil is volatile above 147F. Done many IPAs like this. Super juicy!
Where did you read that myrcene oil was volatile above 147ºF? It seems like I would see this number pop up quite a bit more/would always be a target for anyone steeping/whirlpooling hops.
 

LakesideBrewing

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Hey all,

I'm 10 days in now and I'm racking into my dry hop keg. My gravity is at 1.020, a little higher than I expected. It's my first time using 1318, so maybe it's just not done fermenting yet. Also, it definitely has some hop burn. Normal? Some info:
OG 1.056, chilled to 65, let rise to 70, and then it's been at 68 for 7 days. First dry hop at 3 days.

Thanks,
Mike
 
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Hey all,

I'm 10 days in now and I'm racking into my dry hop keg. My gravity is at 1.020, a little higher than I expected. It's my first time using 1318, so maybe it's just not done fermenting yet. Also, it definitely has some hop burn. Normal? Some info:
OG 1.056, chilled to 65, let rise to 70, and then it's been at 68 for 7 days. First dry hop at 3 days.

Thanks,
Mike
Keep it in that 70.... even 72 degree range to help it finish out. 1.020 is a bit on the high side, but, perhaps moving it and remixing it a bit will keep the yeast going. 1318 is usually not a problem getting down to 1.012 or under. I would give it 3 days at 72 after transfer for sure before trying to keg it.
 
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Thanks for linking this. I have been doing a whirlpool with the temperature held at 170°f for 30 minutes. After reading beersmith like I'll try splitting my whirlpool additions and do 15 minutes at 170 and the second at 140 for 20 minutes
I have gotten to the point where I start my chiller, get the wort on its way under 160-170 range (only a few minutes to get this first drop from boiling to 160 or so), throw all my hops in, and leave the chiller running. Keep swirling it up as it continues to chill. I don't even really do an official "hop stand" so much anymore. I just keep chilling it down. ends up basically being a good 20-25 minutes anyway as it goes from 160 to 65 degrees. Most of the trub and hop particulate ends up settling out toward the end...... I give it one final stir and get it into a bit of a whirlpool with 5-7 minutes to go before it reaches final temps. I can't tell any difference at all between this method and attempting multiple flame out additions, or this method and longer hop stands, etc.
 

Andre3000

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I don't know how many Canadians (probably mostly western ones) there are following this thread, but I'm hell bent on cloning Blindmans NEPA which is flying off the shelves and I absolutely love. So if anyone's come close I'd like to know!

On the can it's got a pie chart of the grains. A quick peek looks like:

~12% Wheat malt
~12% Flaked oats
~6% Golden naked oats
~70% "Extra special british malt" ie Marris Otter?

They also say "The haze is due to the higher protein malts that used as well as yeasts-like our english house yeast-that do not flocculate as well as the standard American ale yeasts". I'm attempting to harvest some yeast from their cans right now and I've also got 1318 on hand, but from that description it doesn't seem like that's what they're using...

Someone posted up a recipe on Brewersfriend:
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/567038/blindman-nepa-clone

This guy is using the recipe approximately as above minus the golden naked and follows a 1:1:1 citra / amarillo / galaxy with the addition of mosaic in the dry hop.

I'd even be curious to know what people who haven't tried Blindman think...

Cheers!
 

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Brewed this style a few times. Just tapped my first one use RO water and brewing salts. What a difference, beer is amazing. Has the aroma and mouthfeel I could never get right. Don't fear water chemistry
 

schematix

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Brewed this style a few times. Just tapped my first one use RO water and brewing salts. What a difference, beer is amazing. Has the aroma and mouthfeel I could never get right. Don't fear water chemistry
+1 RO water

As important as temp control.
 

LakesideBrewing

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Keep it in that 70.... even 72 degree range to help it finish out. 1.020 is a bit on the high side, but, perhaps moving it and remixing it a bit will keep the yeast going. 1318 is usually not a problem getting down to 1.012 or under. I would give it 3 days at 72 after transfer for sure before trying to keg it.
Thanks for the reply. I raised the temp to 72 and will let it ride for a few days.

So, is 'hop burn' fairy common at this point? I plan on cold crashing before carbonation. Is there anything else I should do? I'm thinking about using a filter at transfer. Is that dumb?

Thanks!
 
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Thanks for the reply. I raised the temp to 72 and will let it ride for a few days.

So, is 'hop burn' fairy common at this point? I plan on cold crashing before carbonation. Is there anything else I should do? I'm thinking about using a filter at transfer. Is that dumb?

Thanks!
I really have not had issues with "hop burn" - I know others have commented that when they have had what they thought was hop burn, it often faded over a little more time.
I don't filter...... other than maybe a mesh screen on a dip tube some times. Generally, I find putting the fermenter up on a counter or moving it to where you want it a day or two in advance, lets the hops settle out pretty well. My main concern with a filter would be introducing oxygen..... you would have to be careful in your process there. Secondarily..... it would potentially impact the "haze" aspect (depending on your filter) if that is important to you.
I think the few days at 72 is going to give you the best opportunity to finish out. Don't cold crash it too soon though..... give it a few days at room temp for the yeast to deal with new dry hop. Those late dry hops can cause diacetyl if you don't give the yeast some time to clean up the beer. A few days should be enough.
 

runs4beer

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I have gotten to the point where I start my chiller, get the wort on its way under 160-170 range (only a few minutes to get this first drop from boiling to 160 or so), throw all my hops in, and leave the chiller running. Keep swirling it up as it continues to chill. I don't even really do an official "hop stand" so much anymore. I just keep chilling it down. ends up basically being a good 20-25 minutes anyway as it goes from 160 to 65 degrees. Most of the trub and hop particulate ends up settling out toward the end...... I give it one final stir and get it into a bit of a whirlpool with 5-7 minutes to go before it reaches final temps. I can't tell any difference at all between this method and attempting multiple flame out additions, or this method and longer hop stands, etc.
Right, sounds like the method above is the common home brewing approach to a whirlpool/hop stand. I'm wondering how much myrcene oils are driven off during the stand above 140f and if splitting the DH charge to add one after the wort is below 140 will have an impact.
Also, If possible I would recommend getting away from manually stirring you kettle during chilling. By using a pump and a tight fitting lid I could definitely detect an increase in hop aroma.
 

Andre3000

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Brewed this style a few times. Just tapped my first one use RO water and brewing salts. What a difference, beer is amazing. Has the aroma and mouthfeel I could never get right. Don't fear water chemistry
+1 RO water

As important as temp control.
What was your tap water chemistry like? Now you've got me feeling like I need an RO system!
 

schematix

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What was your tap water chemistry like? Now you've got me feeling like I need an RO system!
Mine is good to moderate quality. It actually tastes pretty good for drinking but for beer its meh. I tasted tap water flavor when i drank the beer.

If you want to be convinced that RO water is the way to go, next time you brew do a relatively cheap experiment: Go buy enough 1 gallon jugs of distilled water (about $0.88/ea at walmart) and add the appropriate salts.

RO is actually quite cheap. A bit over a hundred bucks and the filters last a long time. It also makes really good drinking water. It's basically a filter down to the molecular level so a lot of the unsavory parts of drinking water get removed like pesticides and other industry effluent.
 

pearljam1984

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Anyone tried using WLP007? I just kegged a batch in this style and used it for the first time. It was a quick worker. Went from 1.056 to 1.009 in 3 days. Left in fermenter for 2 weeks. I also mashed at 153 with 33% being wheat.

Way clearer in clarity than the other yeasts I have used. Gonna give it a few weeks in the keg.
 
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Anyone tried using WLP007? I just kegged a batch in this style and used it for the first time. It was a quick worker. Went from 1.056 to 1.009 in 3 days. Left in fermenter for 2 weeks. I also mashed at 153 with 33% being wheat.

Way clearer in clarity than the other yeasts I have used. Gonna give it a few weeks in the keg.
Yeah - 007 drops like a rock. It will definitely result in a beer that has greater clarity than some of the other yeasts. That being said, should still make a very good version of this. I know 007 is a yeast of choice of many breweries that are highly regarded for their IPA's.
 

popquizkid

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Yeah - 007 drops like a rock. It will definitely result in a beer that has greater clarity than some of the other yeasts. That being said, should still make a very good version of this. I know 007 is a yeast of choice of many breweries that are highly regarded for their IPA's.
If you use 007 on this recipe you will end up with a nice beer. I always have 007 on hand as it is very versatile and have made this recipe a few times. In my experience it does not stay hazy very long and will clear up in the keg.
 

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Brewed my second batch of this at the weekend with the new hop addition schedule, less work is good in my book. Also tried the Citra, Mosaic, Simcoe and Centennial combination this time. Only Brewed 2.5 gallons the first time so did 5 as first batch only lasted week. Should be ready just in time for Christmas but want to get the final gravity down as low as possible as OG was a few points off at 1.053 was aiming for around 1.058 so I must adjust my efficiency in Beersmith. Is raising the temperature to around 72 the best way of achieving this? Only went as high as 70 on the last brew. Added the dry hops tonight and raised the temperature to 68. How long should I leave it at that before raising temps?
 

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I usually ferment at 66 and ramp to 72 the last few days in 2 degree increments.
 
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I usually start around 64-66 and it free rises to 68-70. I would say you want to maybe generally keep at or under 70 for 80% of fermentation. After that, 72-74 is probably no big deal and would maybe help them finish out if it is something that is giving a person problems. Mine always seem to finish out just fine at 68-70....... so, I usually never worry about it.
 

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Brewed another version of this 2 weeks ago and it's been kegged for 2 days. Same grain bill as post 1418 and used up some hops I had in the freezer.

.5oz warrior & .25oz ctz @60 (I still like a 60min bittering charge in these beers)
2oz azacca @flameout
2oz Galaxy & 2oz eldorado @ 160 whilpool for 20min
Single dry hop on day 3 2oz El Dorado, 2oz Galaxy, 1oz mosaic

Made a starter with some 1272 that I last used 3-4 months ago, fermentation took longer (usually done in >4 days) but got 84% attenuation from the 1272 which was a bit more than I planned on, beer finished at 1.012. Smells incredible, tropical fruit. I tried something different, didn't bag any of the hops in this batch other than the bittering charge. Used 2 rubber door stoppers to prop up the front of fermenter so things would settle towards the back away from the spigot on my BMB. Seemed to work ok, had to clean out the ball lock twice during keg transfer, but not the worst thing that's happened while transferring these beers. Hopefully the aroma is still there once I take the first pull in a couple days.
 
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jdonley

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Result with WLP644, pineapple, pineapple, mango and pineapple. What a wonderful yeast for NEIPA!! So juicy and fruity. I mashed at 156, went from 1.060 to 1.008 and I can assure you that this is not dry at all. Not even near it. Dry hopped 6oz at day 2 until the end.

Switched Galaxy for El Dorado, it's the second time I do this and I like it more than galaxy.

For those who are tired of Conan and 1318, try this, you will not be disappointed!

Cheers
Do I have to use separate gear when using this particular yeast?
 
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Made a Hoppy Wheat beer in order to grow up some 1318 yeast.
Wanted to try another version of a low ABV session ale for yeast propagating purposes.
Water was around 75-75-75 on calcium, chloride, sulfate
Really pretty good. If anything, I might scale back a touch on the hops - Warrior in particular - a bit more bitterness than needed comparison to gravity. I bet Citra/Mosaic would be killer in this.
1.040 OG
50% Wheat
50% 2 Row
1/2 ounce warrior to bitter..... 20-25 IBU
2 ounces each of Simcoe and Amarillo after chilling below 170
No Dry hop
1318
wheat.jpg
 
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I tried something different, didn't bag any of the hops in this batch other than the bittering charge. Used 2 rubber door stoppers to prop up the front of fermenter so things would settle towards the back away from the spigot on my BMB.
That is a good idea.... I could see that working well, especially for buckets or fermenters like that.
 

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Made a Hoppy Wheat beer in order to grow up some 1318 yeast.
Wanted to try another version of a low ABV session ale for yeast propagating purposes.
Water was around 75-75-75 on calcium, chloride, sulfate
Really pretty good. If anything, I might scale back a touch on the hops - Warrior in particular - a bit more bitterness than needed comparison to gravity. I bet Citra/Mosaic would be killer in this.
1.040 OG
50% Wheat
50% 2 Row
1/2 ounce warrior to bitter..... 20-25 IBU
2 ounces each of Simcoe and Amarillo after chilling below 170
No Dry hop
1318
View attachment 549451
Think that recipe would be ok racked into BlackBerry puree? Or should I listen to my wife and made a super light pale ale with it?
 
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Think that recipe would be ok racked into BlackBerry puree? Or should I listen to my wife and made a super light pale ale with it?
Actually..... I have basically the same beer that I did a kettle sour with Yeastbay Lacto Blend, and then fermented with 1056..... added Raspberry puree to it. Probably sample it this coming weekend.

If I was going to add fruit to it, I would probably get rid of most of the hops. Drinking this one - It probably has too much bitterness as it is and would kind of clash weird with the fruit I think. If I was going to try to blend fruit in, I would scrap my hop bill above. I would maybe bitter with a half ounce of cascade and then add an ounce or maybe two ounces of mosaic at the end.... mosaic can kind of have a berry flavor a bit and that might go very nice with black berry......

I am going to brew it again as above and add a half pound of carpils.
For hops I am going to use 1/2 ounce warrior at 30 minutes and then 1.5 ounces each of citra and mosaic. I think that would be even better than what this one is. It is a nice light hoppy ale as is now.
 

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Going to give this style another try now that I have my keg system set up.
For those who brew this recipe what is the time frame from ready to drink until the hoppiness/aroma begins to fade? I ask because I will probably be the only one drinking this and trying to decide if I want to do a 5 gal batch or a 3 gal batch. My plan is to do a closed transfer to minimize oxygen exposure and to do whatever is necessary to prolong the beer.
 

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Going to give this style another try now that I have my keg system set up.
For those who brew this recipe what is the time frame from ready to drink until the hoppiness/aroma begins to fade? I ask because I will probably be the only one drinking this and trying to decide if I want to do a 5 gal batch or a 3 gal batch. My plan is to do a closed transfer to minimize oxygen exposure and to do whatever is necessary to prolong the beer.
I was very happy drinking my 5 gal. for 4.5 weeks... wish it would have lasted longer but I have another batch to keg in a couple of days.:mug:
 

Northern_Brewer

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If I was going to add fruit to it, I would probably get rid of most of the hops.
...and then add some speciality malts and you'd end up with what I was going to suggest, which was a blackberry mild. It's no bad thing to have something a bit lighter ABV at this time of year, and it's a combination that just seems to work, the mild supports the blackberry without overwhelming the delicate fruit flavours.
 

Sbe2

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Brewed another version of this 2 weeks ago and it's been kegged for 2 days. Same grain bill as post 1418 and used up some hops I had in the freezer.

.5oz warrior & .25oz ctz @60 (I still like a 60min bittering charge in these beers)
2oz azacca @flameout
2oz Galaxy & 2oz eldorado @ 160 whilpool for 20min
Single dry hop on day 3 2oz El Dorado, 2oz Galaxy, 1oz mosaic

Made a starter with some 1272 that I last used 3-4 months ago, fermentation took longer (usually done in >4 days) but got 84% attenuation from the 1272 which was a bit more than I planned on, beer finished at 1.012. Smells incredible, tropical fruit. I tried something different, didn't bag any of the hops in this batch other than the bittering charge. Used 2 rubber door stoppers to prop up the front of fermenter so things would settle towards the back away from the spigot on my BMB. Seemed to work ok, had to clean out the ball lock twice during keg transfer, but not the worst thing that's happened while transferring these beers. Hopefully the aroma is still there once I take the first pull in a couple days.
I use a 4" 3 ring binder to make accommodation space for sediment away from my spigot on my fermonster.
 

SailorJerry

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Actually..... I have basically the same beer that I did a kettle sour with Yeastbay Lacto Blend, and then fermented with 1056..... added Raspberry puree to it. Probably sample it this coming weekend.

If I was going to add fruit to it, I would probably get rid of most of the hops. Drinking this one - It probably has too much bitterness as it is and would kind of clash weird with the fruit I think. If I was going to try to blend fruit in, I would scrap my hop bill above. I would maybe bitter with a half ounce of cascade and then add an ounce or maybe two ounces of mosaic at the end.... mosaic can kind of have a berry flavor a bit and that might go very nice with black berry......

I am going to brew it again as above and add a half pound of carpils.
For hops I am going to use 1/2 ounce warrior at 30 minutes and then 1.5 ounces each of citra and mosaic. I think that would be even better than what this one is. It is a nice light hoppy ale as is now.
Thanks for the input! We've got 3 IPA's on deck, a stout and NEIPA on tap. Need to branch out, plus, the wife is requesting it. Happy wife, happy life, right?
 
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