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garrett19

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Hello,

I have a quick question or two about Sanke Couplers. I have looked for the answer, but I cant find it.

My coupler doesn't look like it has room on the probe for an additional seal. Do all models need one?

Also, do you have to have the flapper valve on the CO2 inlet? I know that it prevents back flow into the gas line, but I was just curious if it was a requirement.

Background: I bought a used coupler and it needed a complete overhaul. I orders all new seals but the gas valve doesn't fit my model, and there isn't any room for a probe seal.

I have pics at home and will upload them tonight to better who what I am talking about, but I wanted to ask while I was thinking about it.

Thanks!

Garrett
 
Sorry for the delay in getting these up. Life seems to get in the way of beer.

Here is a picture of the bottom of the coupler. This is where I am curious to know if I should have a probe seal or not.

I have also added some other pictures of the tap with the seals I bought.

I appreciate any help I can get.

IMG_4179.jpg


IMG_4176.jpg


IMG_4177.jpg


IMG_4178.jpg
 
So, as I am impatient and could not wait to get a glass of the Mokah Stout I had in the keg, I went ahead with the install. :tank:

I first added these adapters. They are a one piece converter which allows for easy one and off of ball lock connections.

I got them to not leak too bad after I replaced the washers, however there is a gas leak. The gas line isn't very secure when it is hooked up as I can hear gas escaping, so I need to wrap some tape of something around the fitting.

I am still concerned about the probe seal and if I need one or not. Any input would still be appreciated!

Garrett:ban:

IMG_4180.jpg
 
Looks to me like you could make it work with the same O-ring that you have on the top (disassembled picture) by your thumb

249025d1421368794-noob-sanke-user-here-img_4176.jpg


Maybe pull one of the double O-rings off the top and put it on the bottom as a test to see if it is compatible?
 
Looks to me like you could make it work with the same O-ring that you have on the top (disassembled picture) by your thumb

Maybe pull one of the double O-rings off the top and put it on the bottom as a test to see if it is compatible?

Yes, this did work. I had three O-Rings this pic just didn't have the third one installed.
 
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