I'm in the states, in the desert. I've been doing no-chill for at least the last two years. My version is just to put a lid on my brew kettle and leave it alone until the next morning. I transfer to a bucket, move it to my cooler, add yeast and put on an airlock.
I’d second what @cgriffith just said, although I’d still use a fermenter and rack off clean wort.
To your question, I had zero problems with cloudy beer while no-chilling. I used "cubes" and found that a minimum overnight chill allowed much of the sediment to settle out. While still brewing, I usually waited 1 day due to schedule and a few times waited a week or more to allow space in my pipeline to open up. That was one of my favorite parts of the method, brewing more when you had time and just transferring/pitching when you had space.
I have brewed over 60 no chill batches to date. Never had a problem with chill haze. I use the standard Whirfloc and gelatin approach
@SanPancho I am curious about your sterile air filter. My kettle has a fitting on the lid which I could easily plug in such a filter. I searched for sterile air filter but mostly ran into industrial filters. Can you relay details on the filter you referred to?
this little bugger. pretty much any brew shop will have them.@SanPancho I am curious about your sterile air filter. My kettle has a fitting on the lid which I could easily plug in such a filter. I searched for sterile air filter but mostly ran into industrial filters. Can you relay details on the filter you referred to?
Oh you must be talking about these? In-Line Sanitary Filter for Aeration Systems
I envisioned some sort of stainless cylinder. I tend to overthinking it!
I plan on serving right from this keg.
Not sure about the rubber feet and handles. The rubber on one of my keg's is already in bad shape and leaves black residue on your hands when cleaning. If that one survives then I think it'll be ok
When you transfer to these, do you just leave the ambient air in the headspace while cooling before pitching?
I have two sets of caps. After filling with hot wort, I cap them tight, flip them upside down for about an hour, to sanitize the cap. I can also do a hopstand in them with a bag of hops.
The first time I used a corny for no chill I found that the rubber got very soft and it felt like the glue was giving away on the rubber base. Now I just put the corny into a small Rubbermaid bin with cold water in it before filling with hot wort. The water is just high enough to cover the rubber base and keeps the bottom cool enough that the rubber doesn’t become pliable, seems to work pretty good. I then go ahead and purge the head space a couple times with co2 and pressurize to about 15-20psi before leaving it to chill overnight. When I go to pitch the yeast the next day there is very little pressure remaining. I open it up, add the yeast and a floating dip tube, seal it back up and shake it for a minute. I’ve only just done around 6 brews using this method but so far I’ve been very happy with the results from no chill brewing.
Great info there about insulating the base. My one keg where the base is clearly deteriorating would probably turn to mush lol.
I can see that working very well with stainless steel. Would it also work for a speidel fermenter (those white/orange ones)?
I ruined a speidel with no chill after one or two years of excessive usage with boiling wort. The lid does not close tightly anymore. But I think 70c should be fine. If I remember correctly, they are listed as stable up until 80c or something like that? Don't remember... But you can look it up in the internet on their page
So I use half a Campden tab in my strike water, and do no splashing when emptying my boil kettle into my nochill drum. It must work, because I have never had that almond flavor.
