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mgortel

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Brewed up some Boondock Stout last nite....

Pitched White Labs Irish Ale yest into fermenter at around 8PM.....temperature of wort was around 70-72 F at the time.

Placed fermenter in my basement (around 61F down there).......I am using blowoff hose into a bowl of vodka. It has been about 15 hours and no bubbles...no activity......

Should I be concerned or is it just the cooler temp in the basement may trake longer for yeast actiuvity.....
 
Give it another 24 hours and you should see something. It may even take a little longer but should fire up soon enough.
Did you make a starter for the yeast?
 
No starter...the label on the vial just said to take out of fridge 3-6 hrs before pitching...then to just dump into fermenter and aerate/stir.

Sounds like it needs more time.....thanks!
 
Bubbling away now....took about 19-20 hours to start....and now it is bubbling pretty good...so the yeast finally got off its lazy butt and started working.....

Thanks for calming me earliedr guys...:cross:
 
Bubbling away now....took about 19-20 hours to start....and now it is bubbling pretty good...so the yeast finally got off its lazy butt and started working.....

Thanks for calming me earliedr guys...:cross:

Learn how to do a small starter. A small starter will wake your yeast up and will get the yeast working a lot quicker for you. It's nothing more then 1/3 cup DME and a liter of water.
 
It will take some time to start. Do you have the fermenter on the basement floor? If you do and your floor is not carpeted and it is title or bare floor, the floor could be colder the the room temp and that can also slow the start of the fermentation. Put a blanket under the fermenter it may speed it up.
 
Sorry to tag on to this thread, but it sounds like the OP's problem is fixed. I brewed a stout on Saturday and pitched with dry yeast (Nottingham). As of this morning, there is still no airlock activity. I have always had fermentation start within 2-6 hours with Nottingham so by Sunday morning, I was pretty worried. I removed the blow-off tube to have a look and the rubber grommet broke in half (one half is now in the beer). The good news is, there was a crusty rim around the pale about an inch over the beer and there was bubbly foam on top. This means that it is fermenting, right?

I promply added another rubber grommet into the beer :eek:, before finally getting one on and rehooking up the airlock. Still no bubbling this (Monday) morning, but I'm guessing that the CO2 is leaking out instead of bubbling through the airlock. Does it sound like my beer is OK? I've never had a fermentation problem before.
 
Whenever I use WhiteLabs I'll take the vial out of the fridge and keep it in my pocket until I'm ready to pitch. That seems to wake up the yeast and get them ready to do their thing.
 
Whenever I use WhiteLabs I'll take the vial out of the fridge and keep it in my pocket until I'm ready to pitch. That seems to wake up the yeast and get them ready to do their thing.

It's really a good idea to make starters when using ANY liguid yeast for all beers above 1.020 OG...

The biggest reason I suggest folks make a starter is if you make one you'll have peace of mind.

And you won't be starting an "is my yeast dead" thread in a couple of days.:D

Making a starter first insures that your yeast is still alive and viable before you dump it in your beer. You will be less likely to start one of those "is my yeast dead?" threads that are on here every day.

You will also ensure that you have enough yeast usually the tubes and smack packs are a lot less yeast that you really should use for healthy fermentation.

Making a starter also usually means your beer will take off sooner, because the first thing that the little buggers do in the presence of wort (whether in a flask or in a fermenter) is have an orgy to reproduce enough cells to do the job...So it won't take such a long time in the fermenter since they started doing it in the flask.

Additionally it is better for the yeast to consume and reproduce incrementally rather than just dumping them into the fermenter...The yeast will be less stressed out than if you just dump them in.

Stressed out yeast can lead to a lot of off flavors...maybe even (though rare) the dreaded autolysis....Or the curse of 1.030....getting a stuck fermentation because the yeast have bit the dust.

So making a starter proves your yeast is still healthy, allows you to grow enough yeast to do the job, cuts down on lag time, and ensures that you will not get off flavors or stuck ferementations from stressed out yeast.

Also has to do with the actual pitch rates of the smack packs and tubes, and has to do with the data that Jamil Z has on his mr malty website.

I'll quote some of it, but really you should look at the stuff there;

http://www.mrmalty.com/pitching.php

Ales & Lagers

The general consensus on pitching rates is that you want to pitch around 1 million cells of viable yeast, for every milliliter of wort, for every degree plato. A little less for an ale, a little more for a lager. George Fix states about 1.5 million for a lager and 0.75 million for an ale in his book, An Analysis of Brewing Techniques. Other literature cites a slightly higher amount. I'm going with Fix's numbers and that is what the pitching calculator uses.
The Math

If you're curious, here is the simple math to calculate the number of cells needed. For an ale, you want to pitch around 0.75 million cells of viable yeast (0.75 million for an ale, 1.5 million for a lager), for every milliliter of wort, for every degree plato.

(0.75 million) X (milliliters of wort) X (degrees Plato of the wort)

* There is about 3785 milliliters in a gallon. There are about 20,000 milliliters in 5.25 gallons.

* A degree Plato is about 1.004 of original gravity. Just divide the OG by 4 to get Plato (e.g., 1.048 is 12 degrees Plato).

So, for a 1.048 wort pitching into 5.25 gallons you need about 180 billion cells.

(750,000) X (20,000) X (12) = 180,000,000,000

As an easy to remember rough estimate, you need about 15 billion cells for each degree Plato or about 4 billion cells for each point of OG when pitching into a little over 5 gallons of wort. If you want a quick way of doing a back of the envelope estimate, that is really close to 0.75 billion cells for each point of gravity per gallon of wort. Double that to 1.5 billion for a lager.
Pitching From Tubes, Packs, or Dry Yeast

Both White Labs and Wyeast make fantastic products and you can't go wrong with either one. There are differences between their strains and each brand has pluses and minuses yet neither is better than the other across the board. Use the brand your local homebrew shop carries, if you need a way to decide.

A White Labs tube has between 70 and 120 billion cells of 100% viable yeast, depending on the yeast strain. Some cells are much larger than others and there are more or less per ml based on size. (The information on the White Labs web site stating 30 to 50 billion cells is out of date.) We can just assume there are around 100 billion very healthy yeast. You would need 2 tubes if you were pitching directly into 5.5 gallons of 1.048 wort to get the proper cell counts.

A Wyeast Activator pack (the really big ones) and the pitchable tubes have an average of 100 billion cells of 100% viable yeast. The smaller packs are around 15-18 billion cells. You would need 2 of the large packs if you were pitching directly into 5.5 gallons of 1.048 wort to get the proper cell counts. For the small packs, you'd need eleven of them!


But to make it easier he has a great pitch rate calculator http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

And according to his numbers on his calculator, really any beer above 1.020, you should be making a starter for.


Me personally when I use liquid yeast I make a starter. I may not be as anal as some brewers and makes sure that I have the exact cellcount for whatever gravity beer I am making, but I do make one for the above reasons I mentioned, namely peace of mid, and a reduction in lag time.
 
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