New take on dimpling, silver solder bulkheads?

[MrNatural]

How is this different than this: http://www.morebeer.com/products/12-fpt-mpt-stainless-adapter.html

I used those when I welded up my keggles last year. They don't have a shoulder to stop you from over-pulling and adds a lip to help seal the back side - if I'm reading it right.

 

[p40whk]

How is this different than this: http://www.morebeer.com/products/12-fpt-mpt-stainless-adapter.html

That is an adapter to go from FPT to MPT and doesn't have the flange on the back to provide a surface to Silver Solder to the inside of the pot.

 

[aviator01]

Thanks for pointing out the "flange" on the back side.

 

[Bobby_M]

My new pots came in this weekend, ready to purchase all my bulkhead fittings and have a couple of questions;

Do you have an ETA for these fittings or should I just go with your current fittings? (I won't be brew ready for a month at least so I can wait if needed).

Drill the holes with a step bit or do they make a knockout punch the correct size for your fittings? (what should your hole size be?)

The hole size should be 13/16" exactly. Smaller and the threads won't fit through. Larger and you won't get much flare area.

I'm a few weeks away on these.

 

[Bobby_M]

How is this different than this: http://www.morebeer.com/products/12-fpt-mpt-stainless-adapter.html

Wow, I had never seen those before this. They are very similar. I don't know what their diameter is but if you had the right size die ID, it could be used in the same way.

 

[p40whk]

The hole size should be 13/16" exactly. Smaller and the threads won't fit through. Larger and you won't get much flare area.

I'm a few weeks away on these.

Looks like others have used THESE to punch the holes based on the reviews, would you think it would work?

 

[Bobby_M]

Bobby,

How wold this work to attach my HERMS coil in the HLT?

I it 50 foot of 1/2 SS that currently uses a compression fitting and nipple set up to attach the valve on the outside.

My issues is that while there is no leak on the inside of the pot, I have a small leak, at temp, on the outside and I can not seem to get it to stop no matter what I do.

T

The way I'd see it done is to solder these in and then thread compression fittings on inside. Of course, there's always the possibility to make a similar fitting shape directly into the compression fitting.

 

[BTizo]

Any manufacturing and/cost updates?

 

[Bobby_M]

Should be in this week but I have to do some testing on the full production units to be sure they're good to go. I also have some of the die tool side coming but also need to test them and get some bolts. The pull in fitting itself is going to be around $7 if my figuring is right.

 

[p40whk]

Great!

I'll keep an eye on the site for them. I have quite a few other things I need and have been waiting for these to place my order.

Looking forward to trying them.

Do you suggest getting an extra and trying to solder one on a cheap pot before I commit my good pots to this or is the process simple enough not to worry about it?

 

[Bobby_M]

It's difficult to rate how challenging or easy the soldering jobs are due to personal skill levels. In the spectrum of items I've soldered to a kettle, these rate the absolute easiest while the 1.5" TC flange is the trickiest.

 

[USAFSooner]

Concur with the above. Dimpling and soldering a 1/2 coupling is pretty simple but the Triclover Ferrule took a bit more skill. I had the Mrs heat the fitting with the MAPP torch while I added the solder. Use the technique in Bobby's video to hold the fitting in place and try to secure the pot as well and you'll be fine.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424050870.007668.jpg

 

[p40whk]

Bobby,

If I gave you a diagram of the layout I'm trying to put together would it be possible for you to recommend a fitting setup?

I'm still waiting for the dimpling fitting to show up on the website but wanted to get as much of the supplies I need for my first order.

I'm looking at a HERMS system and using Camlock fittings with 2 chugger pumps.

Thanks

 

[Bobby_M]

I'm always willing to help when I can squeeze it into my day. Send it over to my email address.

 

[USAFSooner]

I just got done setting up the same thing. Be prepared to buy a lot of full couplers, ball valves, close nipples, and camlocks. I'd buy two spools of silver solder as well. I had the best luck when I put four coils around each fitting prior to soldering.

Just plan it out one vessel and pump at a time. Draw it out and check and recheck your parts counts.

Make a list of your requirements up front such as:

* Do you want whirlpool ports in the HLT and Boil Kettle?
* What sort of sparge/mash return line do you want? (I recommend Bobby's Loc Line kit)
* How many hoses do you need? (I needed 5. 3x 4' and 2x 6')
* What about temp and level monitoring?

 

[p40whk]

I just got done setting up the same thing. Be prepared to buy a lot of full couplers, ball valves, close nipples, and camlocks. I'd buy two spools of silver solder as well. I had the best luck when I put four coils around each fitting prior to soldering.

Just plan it out one vessel and pump at a time. Draw it out and check and recheck your parts counts.

Make a list of your requirements up front such as:

* Do you want whirlpool ports in the HLT and Boil Kettle?
* What sort of sparge/mash return line do you want? (I recommend Bobby's Loc Line kit)
* How many hoses do you need? (I needed 5. 3x 4' and 2x 6')
* What about temp and level monitoring?

All good questions. I've drawn it out a couple of times "roughly" but I guess I really need to make a solid attempt at it. I am going from 5 gallon extract brewing right into an all grain 10 Gallon HERMS system so I'm taking my time and researching everything.

Right now I have the 2-80 quart stainless pots to use for an HLT and boil kettle. I have a 72 Quart Coleman Extreme cooler for a mash tun with a long mesh screen in the bottom. I already have three 3-piece ball valves from an older setup and most of the fittings for those but was waiting on these Dimple/solder fittings to be available before I ordered the rest.

I'll start another post to sort out my shopping list so we don't hijack this thread.

 

[The_Bishop]

Any news on the availability of these? I'm looking to use them to replace the weldless kettle valve I have and to add a whirlpool port to my kettle.

 

[KiwiRob]

The factory machines are humming. Now we wait.

Any news on these? They look awesome.

 

[p40whk]

Bobby,

Quick question, I couldn't tell from the video and didn't see a post that mentions it but with these be available with both the MPT and FPT thread option?

Edit: I see the first post in the thread shows these with Female Threads near the back but that wouldn't work if you wanted to just screw in a Temp Probe. I'm still drawing up my HERMs setup and trying to configure my pots so this will determine if I buy Type A or Type F Camlock fittings and an adaptor to screw my temp probe in.

 

[The_Bishop]

Having just gotten my shipment in, and discovering that Bobby is a 20-mile-stone's-throw from home, I have a quick review.

These things are incredible. It took longer to tear down the kettle and clean it afterwards than it did to solder these in. Get the install tool. It's worth every penny! It made the install very, very easy.

I soldered these with a mapp gas torch, from the outside and focusing most of the heat on the fitting.

Tested with water, the whirlpool action was perfect. This will be great for chilling and whirlpooling the trub to the center of the kettle.

Bobby, thanks for the great hardware and the great service!

 

[wbarber69]

This isn't fair. None of these fittings existed when I built mine!

 

[p40whk]

Having just gotten my shipment in, and discovering that Bobby is a 20-mile-stone's-throw from home, I have a quick review.

These things are incredible. It took longer to tear down the kettle and clean it afterwards than it did to solder these in. Get the install tool. It's worth every penny! It made the install very, very easy.

I soldered these with a mapp gas torch, from the outside and focusing most of the heat on the fitting.

Tested with water, the whirlpool action was perfect. This will be great for chilling and whirlpooling the trub to the center of the kettle.

Bobby, thanks for the great hardware and the great service!

Looks fantastic! I have been waiting for these to become available and was surprised by this post. Went to the website and found them at the bottom of the NPT fitting page.

Just placed my order to upgrade my new pots and set up my HERMs system. Chugger Pumps put a dent in my wallet but I'm looking forward to the clean camlock system.

One thing I had a hard time figuring out from Bobby's website was how to order the Whirlpool setup using these fittings? The Whirlpool kit he sells is for a Weldless setup so I just bought the drop tube and a 90 degree elbow (M/F). After looking at yours I may need a M/M elbow instead? What parts did you order for that?

 

[The_Bishop]

Thanks!

My whirlpool setup was pieced together. It's one of the silver solder bulkhead fittings, a 90 degree 1/2" pipe to 1/2" compression fitting, and a 1/2 o.d. racking cane cut to length. I used the 90* compression fitting to keep the arm as close to the side of my kettle as possible.

 

[p40whk]

Thanks!

My whirlpool setup was pieced together. It's one of the silver solder bulkhead fittings, a 90 degree 1/2" pipe to 1/2" compression fitting, and a 1/2 o.d. racking cane cut to length. I used the 90* compression fitting to keep the arm as close to the side of my kettle as possible.

:smack: Didn't see the 90 degree compression fitting sigh... Well, since he was out of the Big-C camlocks I'll add that to the order once those come in.

Thanks for describing your setup. Makes sense to do it that way.

 

[JKoravos]

Great product. I don't know what else to say other than you should charge more for it! $7?! You have to be kidding me!

 

[Genuine]

that looks badass

 

[jdonkey123]

Any advantage to using the new pull though part for a welded bulkhead if I've got a competent welder lined up to do the job or should I just stick with the NPT threaded?

 

[Bobby_M]

Any advantage to using the new pull though part for a welded bulkhead if I've got a competent welder lined up to do the job or should I just stick with the NPT threaded?

I don't see any reason the fitting couldn't be welded in. I'm not sure the dimpling process would help all that much but the fitting itself saves you from having to use a separate nipple.

I've highlighted the important part of your post. This claim must be vetted.

 

[MX1]

The way I'd see it done is to solder these in and then thread compression fittings on inside. Of course, there's always the possibility to make a similar fitting shape directly into the compression fitting.

For a HERMS coil install, could you install these "backwards" with he threads inside the pot and screw the compression fitting onto it?

then I guess a threaded coupler to attache the valves?

Tim

 

[wbarber69]

Quit it. You're just giving him more ideas on stuff to make. That I'm going to have to buy to replace all the stuff I already made.