New, Making sure I have this right.

[kristiismean]

I have no desire to go gas. But even though my stove works, looking to either go inductive, (more costly, and if it goes out, more costly, but can be used for other items) or "In pot element. I would only use this system for the boil. I like using a cooler for mashing, Don't mind liquid transfers.

So, list of items:
Dual Digital PID Temperature Controller
SSR-40DA,
Heat Sink,
K Probe
220-240V 4500 Immersion Ripple with 1 Inch NPT
1" NPT nut (stainless
Electrical box to house protect connection
box for control panel

Is this really all that's needed?

I have read the sticky's, trying to gather all the info I can.

Thanks

 

[mredge73]

Your list is pretty good.
You will likely need a thermowell for temperature feedback if you plan on using the PID.
You really don't need a PID or temperature feedback for the boil; what you need is a PWM controller that you can dial down once the boil starts.
PIDs are more useful for controling Mash and HLT temps.

I would invest in a purpose made element enclosure instead of a homemade version. Something like this:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4s.htm

Element needs to be ULWD element, this will prevent scorching. Unless you are removing it after every brew and hanging it to dry you will want one with a SS base:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500_ripple.htm
I have the cheaper standard base element but I can remove it in seconds with the TC fittings and hang it to dry minimizing rust.

I found the best prices with these guys when I was buying this stuff a few years ago:
Brewhardware
Brewershardware
Ebrewsupply

 

[kristiismean]

I agree on using the purpose made element enclosure, did not know they make them.

and stainless or not, for the base, i would still take it apart for cleaning, I am that type of guy.

Everything on my list comes to $52.71 and all good feedback on the seller. (received within 20 days) And then if it works the way I want to, then I can move ahead with better quality gear, if at all needed.

Instead of a pid, where can I find a simple dial controller, that would be the preferred method. and no thermowell to worry about.

 

[mredge73]

I missed the 1" NPT nut above; you need a 1" NPS for a water heater element.
At that price, I would be all over it.

I don't know what the go to pwm boil controller is right now; may want to search around a bit.
Here is a small one for $1 that works similar to a stovetop:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-50-220V-...074664?hash=item2806a39128:g:0rQAAOSwyQtV4Aq~

 

[augiedoggy]

I have no desire to go gas. But even though my stove works, looking to either go inductive, (more costly, and if it goes out, more costly, but can be used for other items) or "In pot element. I would only use this system for the boil. I like using a cooler for mashing, Don't mind liquid transfers.

So, list of items:
Dual Digital PID Temperature Controller
SSR-40DA,
Heat Sink,
K Probe
220-240V 4500 Immersion Ripple with 1 Inch NPT
1" NPT nut (stainless
Electrical box to house protect connection
box for control panel

Is this really all that's needed?

I have read the sticky's, trying to gather all the info I can.

Thanks

You dont even need the pid if you just want something for the boil... just go with a pwm controller or an ssvr and pot to adjust it.. no tep sensor needed either... you can also go with brewhardwares hot rod (or something like that) which is a device you mount the element to which you can immerse into different kettles and just pull the whole thing out after use element and all for easy cleaning...

 

[Riot]

There is a thread on homebrewtalk called "pwm show us how" or something to that effect. It has info on how to modify a $3 eBay pwm board, or to make your own for a couple bucks in parts. An SSVR would also work but they are more expensive

 

[jeffmeh]

RTD probe is superior to a K type probe, but both will work. Also, http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=560 is likely the best option out there for both mash and boil control at this point.

 

[RichBenn]

A PWM control is fine for the boil, bit you may want a PID as you can have it ramp up to something below boiling and set an alarms to let you know it's almost ready to boil. Then you change it to manual mode and get it to boil.