Need help with first AG efficiency

[korndog]

I'd stick with it. See how it comes out.

Mash deadspace doesn't really affect efficiency all that much as long as you get the preboil volume you were looking for. Did you happen to test the OG of the well-mixed preboil wort?

I did test it but forgot to do a good mix first. I had already begun heating the kettle when i took it at 1.018 @ 175f. promash adjusts to 1.045.

 

[TexLaw]

I used a Bazooka Screen instead of a manifold.

I've heard that Bazooka screens aren't all that great on efficiency. My last batch, the first one with the new mashtun that has a Bazooka, had some lousy efficiency, too. I can't blame the Bazooka, as it could have been rust on the brewing joints (i.e., I haven't brewed much in the last year), coupled with the fact that I was something of a headless chicken during the last brew session (due to other things).

I'll try it again this weekend.


TL

 

[korndog]

I've heard that Bazooka screens aren't all that great on efficiency. My last batch, the first one with the new mashtun that has a Bazooka, had some lousy efficiency, too. I can't blame the Bazooka, as it could have been rust on the brewing joints (i.e., I haven't brewed much in the last year), coupled with the fact that I was something of a headless chicken during the last brew session (due to other things).

I'll try it again this weekend.


TL

thanks for the reply. I'm off to HD to pick up parts for a manifold today.

 

[hjherbenson]

7 Gallons preboil. I sparged with 4 gallons of 170f water. I just made this mash tun out of a maxcold cooler which has some dead space of about 1 quart. I used a Bazooka Screen instead of a manifold. My mash in with 171 strike water got me to 152 perfectly and it stayed there for an hour. Is this beer worth salvaging or should I dump it and start over. It's quite actively fermenting.

Thank you for replying.

I did corona clone my OG ended up @1.039 I bottled it up tasted the first bottle after 2 weeks WEAKKKKK almost pitched but my wife likes the light stuff, down to the last bottle, damn good stuff.
My first few batches AG had 40-60% effeciency. I stuck with a cheap recipe and tweaked everything untill I now have 80+% effeciency. I now measure out my grains and put them in the freezer untill brew time, I picked up a Maltmill so set my grains out for ~1/2hr then crush. I also started using a 5.2 PH mash stabalizer which improved Eff ~20+%. I use a measuring stick for my boil i.e. start with 6.5 gal as I get close to 1hr measure volume and get a sample to check OG (add DME if needed) when I get to 5.25gal I stop boiling. Now I can try the spendier recipes and with 80+% they aren't so spendy.

 

[njnear76]

I did corona clone my OG ended up @1.039 I bottled it up tasted the first bottle after 2 weeks WEAKKKKK almost pitched but my wife likes the light stuff, down to the last bottle, damn good stuff.
My first few batches AG had 40-60% effeciency. I stuck with a cheap recipe and tweaked everything untill I now have 80+% effeciency. I now measure out my grains and put them in the freezer untill brew time, I picked up a Maltmill so set my grains out for ~1/2hr then crush. I also started using a 5.2 PH mash stabalizer which improved Eff ~20+%. I use a measuring stick for my boil i.e. start with 6.5 gal as I get close to 1hr measure volume and get a sample to check OG (add DME if needed) when I get to 5.25gal I stop boiling. Now I can try the spendier recipes and with 80+% they aren't so spendy.

Hmmmm.... interesting. Where do you order this 5.2 PH mash stabalizer stuff? How many AGs can you get out of it?

 

[Bobby_M]

Unless you suspect (or test) your PH, I wouldn't assume it's off (I'm talking to the NJ guys). Since we all probably have about the same water supply, I think it's ok. I haven't tested but pulling 90% efficiency is a pretty good indicator.

 

[njnear76]

Unless you suspect (or test) your PH, I wouldn't assume it's off (I'm talking to the NJ guys). Since we all probably have about the same water supply, I think it's ok. I haven't tested but pulling 90% efficiency is a pretty good indicator.

I've been using bottled water, actually, because the water from the D&R Canal has chloramine and tastes bad in my opinion

 

[Soulive]

I use bottled water from Stop & Shop. By the way, this F'ed up beer is not spontaneously fermenting. Maybe I'll have Ed's House Lambic on my hands...

 

[njnear76]

I use bottled water from Stop & Shop. By the way, this F'ed up beer is not spontaneously fermenting. Maybe I'll have Ed's House Lambic on my hands...

I use Stop and Shop brand too. I've been looking for a water analysis sheet on the internet, but can't find it. It might be useful to know that info for AG.
Mike

 

[Soulive]

I use Stop and Shop brand too. I've been looking for a water analysis sheet on the internet, but can't find it. It might be useful to know that info for AG.
Mike

Maybe, maybe not. I can say though that the 2 times I've added gypsum to the water, I've had higher efficiency (with partial-mash). Maybe the S&S water is a little too soft...

 

[njnear76]

Maybe, maybe not. I can say though that the 2 times I've added gypsum to the water, I've had higher efficiency (with partial-mash). Maybe the S&S water is a little too soft...

Hmmmm.... You might be right. The only way to know would be to get the information from the manufacturer. Here's what Palmer says and an example of Ozarka brand water.

Palmer has a bit of info on the subject:

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Calcium (Ca+2): Brewing Range = 50-150 ppm.
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Magnesium (Mg+2): [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Brewing Range = 0-50 ppm for pale, base-malt only beers. 50-150 ppm for amber colored, toasted malt beers, 150-250 ppm for dark, roasted malt beers. [/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sulfate (SO4-2): Brewing Range = 50-150 ppm for normally bitter beers, 150-350 ppm for very bitter beers.
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Sodium (Na+1): Brewing Range = 0-150 ppm.
[/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Chloride (Cl-1): Brewing Range = 0-250 ppm.

Example Bottled Water Analysis: Ozarka
Bicarbonates: <1.0 - 7.8 PPM
Calcium Ion: 1.6 - 2.8 PPM (Not Enough!)
Fluoride: ND PPM
Magnesium: 0.62 - 1.1 PPM [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif](Good for Pales, Not for Amber and Dark Beers.)[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Potassium: 1.2 - 3.4 PPM
Sulfates: 1.0 - 5.0 PPM (Bad Hop Utilization)
Sodium: 3.3 - 15 PPM

I'm thinking of buying an in-line water filter. Bottled water doesn't seem like it is hard enough for All Grain.
[/FONT]

 

[Bobby_M]

Go to Walmart and get their whole house filter and buy the two-pack of charcoal inserts. The system is like $26 and the two pack is $6. Now go get some 3/4" MPT to hose barb fittings and make up your hose set. You could even clamp it on to your kitchen sink faucet if you had to. Run the water very slow for max effect.

If you're worried about chloramine, 1/3 a tablet of campden crushed and stirred into the water just prior to use will take care of it. It's like $2 for a billion tablets.

I just think buying 8 gallons of bottled water is a waste of money when tap is about 3 cents per gallon. The filter would pay for itself in 5 batches or so.

Here's what two filters look like in-line:

 

[njnear76]

Yeah I think I will just get a basic faucet thing since this is my brother-in-law's house. A cartridge will last us 20 beers. Not too bad.
Mike

 

[hjherbenson]

Hmmmm.... interesting. Where do you order this 5.2 PH mash stabalizer stuff? How many AGs can you get out of it?

http://www.midwestsupplies.com/products/ProdBySubCat.aspx?SubCat=11181
I boil up 10 gals and use 2 tablespoons/10gal there is 16 oz to a container cost is $11.95 not sure how the math works out but is worth it to me

 

[Bobby_M]

I just ordered 100 pack of PH test strips just so I can be sure.

 

[hjherbenson]

Another idea is use distilled/RO water then add instant water.
http://morebeer.com/search//water/2
I know a couple brewers over here that really like it.
I thought about adding filters to my system but then I'm probably taking out what I need. That chlorine is nasty stuff...

 

[njnear76]

Another idea is use distilled/RO water then add instant water.
http://morebeer.com/search//water/2
I know a couple brewers over here that really like it.
I thought about adding filters to my system but then I'm probably taking out what I need. That chlorine is nasty stuff...

Hmmm... so you recommend doing the 1/2 campden tablet per 5 gallon route? Maybe I will try that first. It's cheaper. My only question is:

How long does it take for a campden tablet to breakdown?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[Bobby_M]

Pulverize 1/3rd of a tablet. I was putting it in a baggie and hitting it with hammer. Add it to the water, stir, and you're ready to brew. From what I've read, it breaks chloramines down to free chlorine which will dissipate out during heating.

 

[njnear76]

Pulverize 1/3rd of a tablet. I was putting it in a baggie and hitting it with hammer. Add it to the water, stir, and you're ready to brew. From what I've read, it breaks chloramines down to free chlorine which will dissipate out during heating.

Cool. Thanks.

 

[CBBaron]

Pulverize 1/3rd of a tablet. I was putting it in a baggie and hitting it with hammer. Add it to the water, stir, and you're ready to brew. From what I've read, it breaks chloramines down to free chlorine which will dissipate out during heating.

A quick an easy way to pulverize the tablet without a mortar and pestle is to place the tablet between two spoons and squeeze.

I second the recommendation of looking at your ph. My understanding is that very soft water can result in a very low ph when using some roasted grains. This drops the mash below optimal ph for the enzymes, resulting in poor conversion. When using extracts this is not a problem but with AG water chemistry can be important. I have been dealing with a similar problem with my stouts. Often your tap water is better suited for brewing than bottled.

Craig

 

[Bobby_M]

I've got some PH strips coming and NJnear is likely running off the same water supply as I am. I'll post results here.