Need help wiring a 24v motor.

[sar_dog_1]

I got my hands on a treadmill motor and circuit board that I want to run my grain mill. The mechanical hookup should be easy but I need to get this thing running first.

I would like to be able to control speed, direction of rotation and have an on-off switch. I have no idea how to do this but I am very good at following directions if someone could help me out with this. Thanks in advance and cheers!!

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Hmmmm......
I take it, that you did not get the treadmill from which it came?

 

[sar_dog_1]

I do but its an all digital panal. No rheostat.

 

[The10mmKid]

First thing I would do is hook a 12V battery charger up to the motor leads and see what you get.

12volts may be just the right speed . . . . . .feeling Lucky?
(it will actually be ~14v, but don't tell anyone . . .shhhh)

Just swap the leads for direction.

'da Kid

 

[sar_dog_1]

Uhg!! Tried the batter charger thing. Best I could get on a diff 24v 1800 1hp was 660rpms @8.5volts. That was with the charger set to 6 low. So frusterated!!

 

[The10mmKid]

Uhg!! Tried the batter charger thing. Best I could get on a diff 24v 1800 1hp was 660rpms @8.5volts. That was with the charger set to 6 low. So frusterated!!

Why the frustration?

I've been led to believe you want under 200RPM max roller speed.

A couple pulleys + the 6Volts(8.5V) and you're set.

'da Kid

 

[sar_dog_1]

I was talking with an electrician who wasnt much help but said that at low of a voltage, the amps would be way to high and smoke the motor.

My end goal was to have direct drive to help save space and avoid the dangers of pullys. Back to the drawing board to come up with a free way to power this thing. I appriciate your response and hopefully I can post some success very soon.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I do but its an all digital panal. No rheostat.

So, the treadmill only had 1 speed?

The one I dismantled had a "digital" panel as well, with a small rheostat soldered directly on the printed circuit board.

Wait, I looked, it's off the board.

But when I gutted the treadmill, I just took all the wiring, mocked up the motor mount in my vise, plugged it in and let it run for about 3 hours, to check for overheating, etc....

It was originally my plan to power a grain mill as well, but I keep thinking "gearmotor" in the back of my mind, mainly for the ease of setting it up!

I do know that the guts I removed, that the D.C. motor shows something like a 2 plus HP rating!



Edit: Where are you located?

 

[The10mmKid]

We use a few 'Dayton' speed controls at work. Nothing in the 1hp range.

Maybe one of these would work:
http://www.grainger.com/product/DART-CONTROLS-DC-Speed-Control-2LHT8?searchQuery=2LHT8

I'm sure there are other sources.

'da Kid

I'm not too sure of your electricians statement.
I've always been under the impression with DC motors that max amp draw occurs when the motor is stalled/excessively loaded at max voltage.

 

[sar_dog_1]

Stealth I am in mass. I have the lower circuit board. I just have no idea where to put the rheostat.

Da kid, I cant afford to buy a gearmotor. That would be ideal. New baby and a house to maintain leaves me with jyst enough to brew. So I scavange stuff from work ect. I can get for free.

I know there is a way to do this I just need to find it.

 

[sar_dog_1]

I found an instructable for wiring up a treadmill motor fir other uses. It helped a lot. I bought a 10k-00ohm audio taper pot 250v dc. 0.25 w potentiometer.
I have the three wires hooked up in every possible way and I get nothing at the motor. No spinny....
I know there is power to the board cause all the green lights are on with none of the red ones lit.

Sorry for the noob questions but I am electronics illiterate.

 

[sar_dog_1]

I was able to test the motor on a power supply at work and is works so the problem is in my board. I think i may just have the pot in the wrong place??

any advise on this would be awsome!!!

 

[The10mmKid]

I can't be of much help w/o a schematic 'dog'.

With those three multi-pin connectors, I'd have to guess there needs to be a couple pins shorted together to simulate an: ON/OFF switch?, a coast switch?, a switch that simulates a hill (drag) switch? There may be a feedback tach in that circuit too.

I'm sure one or two of those connectors is just signals to the top display board. That heavier long 8-pin may need some serious looking in too.

'da kid