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Need a new chiller, cautionary tale

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Crafty_Brewer

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Alright everyone, I learned something today. Either don’t store your chiller over the winter in a freezing garage, or use an air compressor to make absolutely certain there is no water left in it. Holding your immersion chiller upside down and waiting for the water to stop dripping out was insufficient. You can see from the pic attached here, I had some water freeze and blow the side of my chiller out.

I had to do an unplanned no-chill process for brew day today. Thankfully I noticed in time to adjust my hop schedule.

So now I’m in the market for a new chiller. My old one was sized more for smaller batches anyhow; I mostly do 5 gallon batches now.

What do you all like? 50’ immersion chiller, counter flow, plate chiller, gravity fed copper tubing through an ice bucket (looking at you @BrewerinBR), or just convert to no chill as a permanent process (probably pick up some HDPE cubes if I’m doing that long term).


IMG_4615.jpeg
 
fwiw, when "hazy" IPAs became a huge thing at Casa 'Trippr I orphaned the Dudadiesel PC bolted to my 3v2p herms rig in favor of a 50' 1/2" SS IC - which among its favorable attributes is the 100% clog-free performance ;) and its ease of cleaning and 100% inspectability. So I guess I recommend SS ICs vs PCs or CFCs...

Cheers!
 
What do you all like? 50’ immersion chiller, counter flow, plate chiller, [...]
Plate chiller here, 40 plates from DudaDiesel.

All hops need to be bagged or basketed in the kettle to prevent them entering the plate chiller and clogging it.*
I use large, fine mesh nylon "steeping" bags that get drained to refresh the wort inside every 5-8 minutes, or so.

* Among smaller clogs, I've had one major clog with hops and grapefruit rind/peel** that went in commando. It took 2 weeks to get that chiller operational, again...
Since then everything non-liquid gets filtered in the kettle, even Irish Moss. Haven't had a clog since.

** One of the best Saisons I ever brewed, so at least I there was some reward making up for the major hassle.
 
Sad to see this...
Now that hole can be fixed with a coupler. Or 2 couplers and a short (1 inch?) piece of copper tubing. Make sure it's the only hole.
There are at least 2 holes in it, but I do have some spare tubing. I would also like to get something better sized for 5 gallon batches, but maybe I could fix this one up and keep it around as a pre chiller like I’ve seen some people setup with a bucket of ice water.
 
fwiw, when "hazy" IPAs became a huge thing at Casa 'Trippr I orphaned the Dudadiesel PC bolted to my 3v2p herms rig in favor of a 50' 1/2" SS IC - which among its favorable attributes is the 100% clog-free performance ;) and its ease of cleaning and 100% inspectability. So I guess I recommend SS ICs vs PCs or CFCs...

Cheers!
I really do like that I don’t have to worry about clogs or gunk infecting a batch with ICs.
 
Plate chiller here, 40 plates from DudaDiesel.

All hops need to be bagged or basketed in the kettle to prevent them entering the plate chiller and clogging it.*
I use large, fine mesh nylon "steeping" bags that get drained to refresh the wort inside every 5-8 minutes, or so.

* Among smaller clogs, I've had one major clog with hops and grapefruit rind/peel** that went in commando. It took 2 weeks to get that chiller operational, again...
Since then everything non-liquid gets filtered in the kettle, even Irish Moss. Haven't had a clog since.

** One of the best Saisons I ever brewed, so at least I there was some reward making up for the major hassle.
I’ve heard of people having to get pretty elaborate with their sanitizing process with the PC too, does that seem to be the case as well as being careful with the hop trub?
 
There are at least 2 holes in it, but I do have some spare tubing.
Dang!

I just thought of a quick fix.
You could simply cut out the gapes and insert a (short) piece of silicone tubing (1/8" wall thickness), clamped down with Oetiker clamps (or just stainless wire). If needed, create some extra stability by tying one or both ends of the repaired piece to the winding above and/or below with a piece of wire (stainless or copper).

Or you may be able to cut through the middle of the gapes, reshape them as much as possible to the roundness of the coil, then use a silicone hose patch as above. That may give you more stability/rigidness in those areas.

And don't store the coils in areas that can freeze. ;)
I'm not sure an air compressor can blow enough water out to prevent this from happening again.
 
Dang!

I just thought of a quick fix.
You could simply cut out the gapes and insert a (short) piece of silicone tubing (1/8" wall thickness), clamped down with Oetiker clamps (or just stainless wire). If needed, create some extra stability by tying one or both ends of the repaired piece to the winding above and/or below with a piece of wire (stainless or copper).

Or you may be able to cut through the middle of the gapes, reshape them as much as possible to the roundness of the coil, then use a silicone hose patch as above. That may give you more stability/rigidness in those areas.

And don't store the coils in areas that can freeze. ;)
I'm not sure an air compressor can blow enough water out to prevent this from happening again.
Yea, you know what I might try to fix this one and report back with some results.

I was rummaging around in the garage and found a short coil of copper tubing, a couple of junctions (unions?) and some solder and flux. I believe I bought them to extend the ends of the chiller to get the part of it where the hoses connect to the copper to sit outside the kettle to keep any drips out of the wort. I might need to pick up some more junctions, but a little soldering project might be worthwhile considering these chillers are going for like $150 now.
 
Stay with the immersion chiller. They’re easier to clean, and you can visually see that it is clean. Fix this one or get a coil of copper tube and make your own.
Yep, I like that idea. Tried and true. If I do buy one I saw a fancy one called the Hydra that looks pretty slick. $$$ though.
 
I use a plate chiller too, sounds the same as Island Lizard's. I built a filtering grant, mesh basket fitted inside a quarter barrel, that wort is pumped from before entering the chiller.

After use I flush the chiller with hot water, pump sanitizer through it, drain and it's ready for the next brew. I brew in my basement, no winter freeze.
 
Yep, I like that idea. Tried and true. If I do buy one I saw a fancy one called the Hydra that looks pretty slick. $$$ though.
I have the Jaded Hydra, it's awesome. It can drop temps by 100° in 5 minutes. I added a shutoff at the kettle end for ease and convenience.
 
I use a plate chiller too, sounds the same as Island Lizard's. I built a filtering grant, mesh basket fitted inside a quarter barrel, that wort is pumped from before entering the chiller.

After use I flush the chiller with hot water, pump sanitizer through it, drain and it's ready for the next brew. I brew in my basement, no winter freeze.
I would love a basement, need to move lol.
 
That sounds awesome. My ground water is about 55F so I bet it would go quick.
For sure quicker than mine. My ground water is about upper 50's to 60° in the winter, but much warmer in the summer. In the warmer months I can usually get temperatures down from 212° to below 100° in short order, but then it takes a while to get those last few degrees, and I end up with diminishing returns. I generally stop when I get about 10 degrees above incoming water temperature, otherwise I'm just wasting water at that point.
 
I'm a plate chiller guy too. Use a keggle to boil in. I do a manual whirlpool for 30-seconds, wait 15-20 minutes, then pump it through the chiller. The trub/hops are left behind and the wort i crystal clear. Never had any issues with chiller getting clogged. Can't remember the last time I used my hop spider. To sanitize, I mix a couple gallons of starsan in the BK while I'm mashing, recirculate for 20-40 minutes. After the BK is cleaned, I just recirc hot water through the plate, forward and backward, drain it the best I can and call it a day. I do like the idea of the shop vac though. Pic from may 10gal fest beer brew the other day. Hop cone left in the BK after I drained it.
 

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I use a plate chiller too [...] I built a filtering grant, mesh basket fitted inside a quarter barrel, that wort is pumped from before entering the chiller.
Thank you for that tip!!!
Using the basket as a grant is among the best ideas I've read in a looong time!

That way, hops (and any other solid additions) swim freely in the full volume of wort. When it's time to recirculate and chill, drop in the basket/grant, being a huge filter screen to keep all solids out of the pump/chiller.

Beats the more commonly used method from adding hops and such to a (relatively) small basket or mesh bags that periodically need to be drained.

Ace!
 
I'm a plate chiller guy too. Use a keggle to boil in. I do a manual whirlpool for 30-seconds, wait 15-20 minutes, then pump it through the chiller. The trub/hops are left behind and the wort i crystal clear. Never had any issues with chiller getting clogged. Can't remember the last time I used my hop spider. To sanitize, I mix a couple gallons of starsan in the BK while I'm mashing, recirculate for 20-40 minutes. After the BK is cleaned, I just recirc hot water through the plate, forward and backward, drain it the best I can and call it a day. I do like the idea of the shop vac though. Pic from may 10gal fest beer brew the other day. Hop cone left in the BK after I drained it.
Same for me too other than running through the big filter.

I use the filter/keg from the mash tun too. It acts as an accumulator with my pump.
 
Thank you for that tip!!!
Using the basket as a grant is among the best ideas I've read in a looong time!

That way, hops (and any other solid additions) swim freely in the full volume of wort. When it's time to recirculate and chill, drop in the basket/grant, being a huge filter screen to keep all solids out of the pump/chiller.

Beats the more commonly used method from adding hops and such to a (relatively) small basket or mesh bags that periodically need to be drained.

Ace!
 

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I was about ask for pic's, thanks
I bought a legal quarter barrel and cut the top off. On the very bottom in the cone I welded a ninety degree elbow. Connected to that is a straight and a ball valve. I welded four tabs for wheels. The basket I had fabricated at Arbor Fab. It's 300 mesh stainless with a bail handle.
 
Ok, so I said I’d report back when I got my chiller sorted… I was examining the broken chiller more closely to evaluate repairing it, and I counted 4 holes that I could see, so I ended up ordering a new chiller because I want to brew again soon, and don’t have a lot of time to futz with repairs. I’ll be giving the Jaded Hydra a test drive for my next brew, this thing is a beast! (I’ll be keeping this one inside where it won’t freeze).
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I am glad that you were able to locate the holes in your chiller and have ordered a new one. The problem I see most often is that the connection between the plastic tubes and the copper tubing get loose and leak. I've also had problems on the outflow with kinks that end up blowing apart the tubes and causing water to end up in my boil (rooking mistakes, I know). A few years ago, I did switch to a plate chiller and found that it cooled my wort much faster than an inversion cooler.
 
I am glad that you were able to locate the holes in your chiller and have ordered a new one. The problem I see most often is that the connection between the plastic tubes and the copper tubing get loose and leak. I've also had problems on the outflow with kinks that end up blowing apart the tubes and causing water to end up in my boil (rooking mistakes, I know). A few years ago, I did switch to a plate chiller and found that it cooled my wort much faster than an inversion cooler.
You can't appreciate the pressure on a hose/fitting until you have hot liquid spraying all over! So I hear . .
 

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