NB Golden Strong Ale

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Hey all!
So I jumped for the Northern Brewer Belgian GSA extract kit and I've never done any sort of Belgian before. I know that yeast choice is important, but I also understand that fermentation temps are too. I ferment with a Catalyst, but don't have super fantastic temp control(if a sheet foam box with hot/frozen water jugs count), so you know what I'm working with I'm planning on using Wyeast 1388, two packs. Wyeast guidance shows a temp range of 64-80 degrees and the NB directions state to ferment at the yeast temperature as defined by that manufacturer. The directions state to finish primary in 2-3 weeks and rack to secondary for 2-3 months and then bottle condition. I know that some Belgian brewers reinoculate their beer with a shot of fresh yeast at the time of priming and bottling. Should I still have enough active yeast in suspension at this point or would some saved yeast (from brew day) added then, be a good idea? I'm planning on bottle aging this for a good four to six months. I am sure some of you have done this kit, any input?
 
If I were you, I'd reconsider whether or not to do a secondary, regardless of the kit instructions. I don't see it as needed for a BGSA.
I'd leave it in primary long enough to be sure attenuation is finished, clean up off flavors, and for the yeast to (mostly) drop, then bottle.
 
When you transfer your beer to the bottling bucket you will probably pick up some yeast from the bottom; I would expect that to be enough to carbonate. But if you're worried, it wouldn't hurt to add a little champagne yeast (EC-1118 or Premier Cuvee) at bottling time if you're sure all the simple sugars have been eaten already. Those yeasts have high alcohol tolerance and they won't eat maltotriose. Don't use K1V-1116 because it will ferment maltotriose if your Belgian yeast left any behind.
 
When you transfer your beer to the bottling bucket you will probably pick up some yeast from the bottom; I would expect that to be enough to carbonate. But if you're worried, it wouldn't hurt to add a little champagne yeast (EC-1118 or Premier Cuvee) at bottling time if you're sure all the simple sugars have been eaten already. Those yeasts have high alcohol tolerance and they won't eat maltotriose. Don't use K1V-1116 because it will ferment maltotriose if your Belgian yeast left any behind.
Okay. Do you have much experience with 1388? What is the traditional fermentation temps for a BGSA with this type of yeast?
 
When you transfer your beer to the bottling bucket you will probably pick up some yeast from the bottom; I would expect that to be enough to carbonate. But if you're worried, it wouldn't hurt to add a little champagne yeast (EC-1118 or Premier Cuvee) at bottling time if you're sure all the simple sugars have been eaten already. Those yeasts have high alcohol tolerance and they won't eat maltotriose. Don't use K1V-1116 because it will ferment maltotriose if your Belgian yeast left any behind.

I'm not experienced in brewing Belgian or Trappist beers. I've had more than a few in Brussels but never developed a liking for them.

But why would you not want the maltotriose to get fermented? Doesn't it make up ~15% of the of the total carbs? And additionally the EC-1118 and Cuvee will also ferment maltotriose anyway once the 'simpler' sugars are metabolized.

Agree with K1V-1116 becoming the dominant surviving yeast though.

Brooo Brother
 
I'm not experienced in brewing Belgian or Trappist beers. I've had more than a few in Brussels but never developed a liking for them.

But why would you not want the maltotriose to get fermented? Doesn't it make up ~15% of the of the total carbs? And additionally the EC-1118 and Cuvee will also ferment maltotriose anyway once the 'simpler' sugars are metabolized.

Agree with K1V-1116 becoming the dominant surviving yeast though.

Brooo Brother

I'm pretty sure EC-1118 and Cuvee do not ferment maltotriose. But I can't find an authoritative source for that. K1V-1116 does; I have used it to ferment beer before and it does a good job.

You don't want your bottling yeast to use any residual sugars in your beer after your primary yeast is done with it, just the priming sugar. Otherwise it will thin-out and dry your beer and you risk bottle bombs.

I've only used WY1388 in mead. It did a good job. I tried making a starter from the dregs but the mead used it up.
 
I'm pretty sure EC-1118 and Cuvee do not ferment maltotriose. But I can't find an authoritative source for that. K1V-1116 does; I have used it to ferment beer before and it does a good job.

You don't want your bottling yeast to use any residual sugars in your beer after your primary yeast is done with it, just the priming sugar. Otherwise it will thin-out and dry your beer and you risk bottle bombs.

I've only used WY1388 in mead. It did a good job. I tried making a starter from the dregs but the mead used it up.
How does 1388 do, fermentation-wise? Does it stall out at all? Is it slow to start? I will definitely research the strain more for sure
 
Well, here's a picture of my BGS less than 15 hours after pitching. Looks like a starter of 1m/mL/°P for a 5.25g batch of 1.077 works wonders
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12 days into fermentation, most action has slowed. Fermenter is right at 80°. Dumped my 16oz jar of trub last night, sucker was full. Now it's got an 8oz mason on there to finish out the drop to ambient garage temps(54°) on the 14th for a week.
 
Bottling day! Figured I would get them into the bottle now so they can spend a month warm conditioning, then into the cold garage for a couple months to lager. OG 1.077, FG 1.010. 8.7%ABV. It is really good! Next time will ramp up the temperature sooner, but is so drinkable and that is just while it's still. Primed to 3.6 volumes. The next time these babies come out is when my still unborn newborn is 3 months old!
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Well, got the first sample well enjoyed on Saturday. It's killer! With the birth of our third girl early Wednesday morning I was worried I wouldn't be able to get to sample it this weekend. Will move the cases to the garage to cold condition for a few months to help it clear up.
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